1. Not knowing your measurements

While we do have a handy size guide, it is essential to know your measurements as accurately as possible.  Unlike a tailored suit, raw Japanese denim is alive.  Sure, both sanforized and unsanforized denim move and adapt — they stretch and shrink at their will, more on that later — but it is important to be fully aware of your raw denim measurements.

“Depending on where one where chooses to wear their denim — a low rise pair low on the hips or a higher rise old Americana fit — can be more impactful than the actual waist size”

The main thing most raw denim fans notice first is their waist size. Really, it is the first thing anyone notices about their pants size, however there’s so much more: One measurement we have always championed is the rise. The front rise is the measurement of the seam of the crotch of your denim to the top, above the button. The same crotch seam all the way along the yoke in the back to the top form the back rise. The rise is possibly the most important important measurement.  Depending on where one where chooses to wear their denim — a low rise pair low on the hips or a higher rise old Americana fit — can be more impactful than the actual waist size: Many customers who wear a certain size in one denim with a lower rise wear a much different size in a different brand that has a different cut with a higher rise. The thighs are often a point of contention. Often, when a customer finds the right waist size — and the right rise — the thighs aren’t quite right.  So much of this chalks up to build. Someone that cycles or exercises more may not be as easily able to fit into a pair of slim tapered denim. Fortunately, a lot of brands have recently developed new cuts with higher rises that still have strong tapers and generous thighs! Taper? What? Taper is how the leg measurement quite actually tapers off as they get closer to the hem.  The hem?  That’s where the denim stops.  Right above your shoes. Often customers have denim that is too long for them, so they hem the hem!  Fortunately, we have a service for that!

Any question you may have on fit, length, width or otherwise, we can accommodate. Any questions you may have about measurements we can answer 24/7.  Our chat line is always available for you.  One of the most simple ways we can do this is getting the measurements from your favorite pair of pants, the ones that fit you best, and we’ll take it from there!

2. Listening to others too much/not enough

This is a pretty huge factor.  Word of mouth is the largest factor that carries interest in niche hobbies like raw denim and high-end goods that come from Japan. The way a certain pair may fit on someone or a super slick Instagram post of a soak or a button-up you’ve always wanted can change your perception on how an item may appear.

“Ultimately, raw denim is your canvas. That’s the most beautiful thing about it.  You cannot do anything wrong with it, provided that it makes sense and works for you.”

There are fantastic sources online, such as reddit.com/r/rawdenim, SuperFuture, Hypebeast, MyNudies, and many, many others. They all cater to different audiences and fanbases. SuperFuture, or SuFu, has been around and popular for quite some time. They speak to an older hobbyist audience that has been in the raw denim game for a while. They’re as experienced and technical as they get, but are conservative when it comes to trends, so you might not see them embracing the up-and-coming. Contrastingly, reddit.com/r/rawdenim has been around for less time and they seem to speak to a newer, younger audience. You might not get the ultra-technical information there, but the audience is more in tune and embracing of contemporary trends. There is some overlap in these two and, ultimately, they both champion the same thing: quality raw and Japanese denim and the enrichment of the denim community.

Our advice, use these great sources and tap into the community but learn to tune out unnecessary noise. Some may dislike some brands, while others love them. Some will speak out about cuts as if it was something set in stone – love low rise, hate low rise, too tight, too loose. Some may say to never wash your jeans. Some may say that if they’re dirty, wash ’em.  Some may say to put them in the freezer, throw ’em in the machine, soak ’em in the ocean or just give up entirely.

Ultimately, raw denim is your canvas. That’s the most beautiful thing about it.  You cannot do anything wrong with it, provided that it makes sense and works for you. Take others’ advice into account to the extent that it helps you, and learn from there.

3. Getting overeager and compromising on size/weight/cut

This is huge! Some of the most important things are worth waiting for. A lifelong companion of quality raw denim is one of those things.

“Yes, an 100% air-tight fit is hard to find (this is raw denim and wabi sabi land after all), but you will know when you put on a pair if something doesn’t feel right.”

There are many, many stories of individuals that have had the misfortune of being impatient or sizing incorrectly. A pair of beautiful selvage denim that was too tight, too loose, too long, too short, too thick, too rough, too light. Yes, an 100% air-tight fit is hard to find (this is raw denim and wabi sabi land after all), but you will know when you put on a pair if something doesn’t feel right. There’s no reason to compromise on factors that are important to you. These things ain’t cheap, so make sure you’re happy with what you get…. and one thing that we suggest to avoid this preemptively is…

4. Not doing your research first 

Do your research!  Simple.

“Read and look at photos of different fabrics. Look at fit pics of different cuts and styles.”

All of the above forums, websites and resources are there for you to help you out based on others’ past experiences and their love of this craft.

It does, of course, come back to you, ultimately.  Read and look at photos of different fabrics. Look at fit pics of different cuts and styles. It is a known fact that when every denimhead finds their first pair that feels and fits just right, they know. This is the standard to which all pairs in the future will be compared (like that one awesome girlfriend that we later compare every other one to!).

It can be a bit of a process of trial and error. Our exchange and try-on policy is here to alleviate any difficulty associated with that.  We’re here to help you find it and you can also ask as many questions as you want in our Live Chat or via email before pulling the trigger on a pair if you’re not quite sure.

5. Buying a pair because you found a bargain

“There is a wide range of prices in great raw and high-end denim. That they’re cheap doesn’t necessarily mean that they’re bad…”

Don’t jump the gun on a pair that isn’t quite like what you want, simply because you found a good deal.  Many things are worth paying full price for, and many things aren’t worth paying anything for.  There is a wide range of prices in great raw and high-end denim. That they’re cheap doesn’t necessarily mean that they’re bad, but if you had your eye on a slightly pricier pair that you will love, our recommendation is to go with that instead of compromising. Same goes the other way around: if you have your eye on a cheaper pair that you think looks awesome, don’t be swayed by the idea that “more expensive is better” and go for the pricier one. Get the cheaper one that you liked better!

6. Not knowing how to care for the denim

“…there is no serious consensus on exactly how to go about it, but you will find some common ground on how to maximize the life of your jeans and get the best evolution for them.”  

To illustrate the point, we will analogize with high-end Japanese steel chef’s knives: a regular steel knife will rust if not oiled and maintained, unlike a stainless steel knife.  It requires care for it to stay sharp.  They will both perform the same job, and they’ll both do it in different ways.  A Ferrari requires a lot more maintenance than a Ford, but they both get you somewhere. One of them is just a bit more of an acquired (and expensive) thing that demands a certain level of care.  And hobbyists are willing to provide that care.  Different mills, makers, and brands provide advice on how to care for your raw denim — we’ve done that, too — and there is no serious consensus on exactly how to go about it, but you will find some common ground on how to maximize the life of your jeans and get the best evolution for them.

With that said, you can find your own way: again, this goes back to raw denim being your canvas, seeing what others’ opinions are, and being subject to what discoveries you make. Some say wash now. Some say wash later. Hang. Dry. Wear wet. Never wash. Say a blessing over them and run a marathon in ’em. Find out from others, people in the industry and what discoveries you make how to care for your raw denim in the way that best suits you!

7. Not knowing how different types of denim behave

This can save you.  For example — a tighter weave but significantly lighter denim like The Flat Head doesn’t breathe as much as a heavier denim with a lower-tension weave, like ONI.  That can set how comfortable you are in a climate, and color your experience and impression of a large purchase like raw denim.

“Knowing how it behaves allows you to tame it sooner, be comfortable and ignite your passion.”

Denim that is sanforized will typically stretch or shrink less, while unsanforized will shrink and stretch more. But this will also depend on the weave, is it loose (low tension) or tighter (higher tension)? So many Momotaro offerings are a great example of unsanforized denim that doesn’t stretch too much because of the higher tension weave. Now, take a brand like Pure Blue Japan or ONI, which are known for their slubby fabrics and stretchy denim that can even stretch out beyond initial raw measurements at times! Knowing how it behaves allows you to tame it sooner, be comfortable and ignite your passion. You can always just ask us.

Have any questions or big “no-no’s” that you’ve encountered when purchasing raw denim? Please share them in the comments below, we’d love to hear!  🙂