Graphzero and TCB – Two worlds of Japanese denim

Being interested in Japanese denim we often tend to generalize about this unique phenomenon. Whereas each brand is unique in its vision of the old American classics and its own artisanal approach to jeans production. Yes, often on the pictures in the online store we see roughly similar “blue pants”, but the choice of the most suitable product always requires a slow and careful approach, careful study of information.

In this publication, we will try to review some of the iconic products of two different brands. Let’s try to understand the peculiarities of each product. 

What do Graph Zero and TCB Jeans have in common? Perhaps their meticulous approach to production. TCB has been a small artisanal workshop for a long time, they are immersed in American vintage as much as possible, trying to show something new in such a conservative “genre” as classic Japanese repros. The members of the Graph Zero team are very experienced in fabric production. Their product has common details and silhouettes of old American classics, however, the manufacturer strives to show his author’s vision of vintage, using very unusual and interesting fabrics and dyeing methods.

How correct would it be to compare these two brands? We will try to show the peculiarities and uniqueness of each product. On the contrary, we will try to provide information that will allow you to better understand the uniqueness of each product so that you can make the right choice. The choice, as always, is yours alone. So, let’s get started:)


This is a reproduction of the early days of the jeans industry. The model used here is Levi’s 501 1922. Old style work jeans with 12.5OZ denim. American cotton varieties are used. These jeans can be worn with either a belt or suspenders. The manufacturer studied vintage jeans and fabric specifics very carefully to create this model.

Graphzero has a few versions of the early 501 style jeans too. This is a heritage series that utilizes a wide fit and some historical details. This series shouldn’t be correlated with classic repro though. It is an author’s take on American historical heritage.


Here is the 15OZ denim with a dark indigo saturation is used. The fabric has a very slight heterogeneity of texture. The patch is made of vegetable tanned leather. There is a red tab on the back pocket. There is a cinch back for size adjustment. The jeans can be worn with a belt or with suspenders.


This model has all the characteristic historical details of the previous model. However, in terms of fabric, the manufacturer has gone further. We can observe a super expressive slubby texture with noticeable horizontal “waves”.The fade of this denim will be very expressive and unusual.


This version of the Heritage model has a heterogeneous texture with lots of nep elements. Of course this type of fabric is author’s and it is not like vintage denim. You get a great historical style jean with a very distinctive and unusual denim.


In this model, the manufacturer tried to reproduce the period when jeans were no longer perceived as workwear. It was in the 60s that denim began to gain popularity around the world. This period is characterized by a relatively light indigo color and relatively smooth texture of denim.

In general, these are modern jeans. But you can see some elements of the 60’s style in them. It is a relatively slim fit, allowing for a sleeker style of jeans. The beautiful light indigo shade is definitely reminiscent of vintage style. But Graphzero goes further and besides the classic indigo, they release this same model with denim dyed with kakishibu (persimmon extract). These jeans look very unusual and spectacular.


A model in the style of the 40s. Here TCB uses a dark indigo color. The texture of the denim has a slight slubby feel. Distinctive details of this jacket are a chest pocket with copper rivets in the upper corners and a cinch back for size adjustment at the back.


Graphzero has a 40’s style jacket too. Here we see a recognizable cut, a red tab chest pocket and a cinch back. However, here the manufacturer uses denim with a higher density, 16OZ.This allows for a more pronounced texture.

This model is based on the famous Wrangler 111mj jacket, which was produced in the 50-60s. For its time it was a very technological model, having anatomical cut of the shoulder with special elastic bands on the wrong side. This allowed to get exceptional comfort and ergonomics. By the way, it was Wrangler 111mj that John Lennon liked to wear.

TCB tried to stick to conservative classics as much as possible. 11.6OZ left-hand weave denim is used here. Exactly the same as the historic jackets.

Graphzero sticks to its own style. It uses the look of the vintage Wrangler 111mj jacket while using its signature herring bone weave denim with a very distinct vertical texture. At the same time the jacket has all the recognizable details of a vintage Wrangler jacket. So if you are looking for an unusual style of denim jacket with absolutely crazy denim, we would recommend paying attention to this particular model.

In this small publication we tried to compare two completely different Japanese brands with different approaches to denim clothing production. As said above, we can in no way make a conclusion about what will be better and more interesting for you. We just tried to give you an understanding of how different models of Japanese jeans and jackets can be, if you consider them in detail. So even if you see similar looking jeans models on the site, we recommend you to carefully consider the fabric and details, most likely you will discover a lot of new things!

As always we welcome any questions you may have about our products, we will try to give the most detailed and helpful answer.


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