Japanese brand Graph Zero is known for its distinctive and unconventional approach to clothing production. The brand’s philosophy is based on a combination of Japanese street style, Japanese craftsmanship and, of course, the historical heritage of American vintage.
Graph Zero pays special attention to fabrics and their dyeing. Such a variety of sometimes unusual styles of weaving fabrics you can hardly see anywhere else. The thing is that the Graph Zero brand itself, created in 2004, was created by people who have been working with weaving for a long time. When the brand itself declares that the desire to create an authentic Japanese product from scratch is the essence of Graph Zero it certainly arouses respect for this manufacturer.
In this post, we will try to briefly review the main types of fabric that Graph Zero uses in their jeans collection. To understand the products of this brand in the very first place you need to pay attention to the denim. We assure you that it is unlike anything else.
16OZ HERRINGBONE
This is the most characteristic fabric for GZ, also called Sugi Ayaori. As a rule, Graph Zero prefers to use a slightly higher than average density, 16OZ, for their basic jeans collection. This allows for a nicely defined texture and at the same time does not make the jeans very heavy. As the name implies, they use an unusual herringbone weave, which is completely atypical for denim production. The vertical texture looks very beautiful and unusual.
The warp threads are dyed in a dark indigo color. Over time, this denim will receive fading that will emphasize the texture of this denim. The filling threads are dyed gray, for this reason this denim looks even darker on the front side.
Tactilely, it is a very soft type of denim and will not take long to wear. When weaving, the thread has no tension, which gives the denim a visual texture and tactile softness.
There is one more non-obvious nuance of all “broken” types of fabric from Graph Zero. Because of the weave, these types of denim do not have the Leg twist effect (twisting of the pant leg in the direction of the weave of the fabric).
So, if you would like to get acquainted with Graph Zero jeans, we recommend you to start with the 16OZ HERRINGBONE denim, because it has all the features of this brand.
graphzero GZ-16ST-01OW 16OZ HERRINGBONE JEANS STRAIGHT
16OZ DROP NEEDLE HERRINGBONE
This is a variation of 16OZ HERRINGBONE denim with a more vertical texture. If you see a Graph Zero denim with very visible stripes, you are probably looking at the 16OZ DROP NEEDLE HERRINGBONE version.
Over time, such denim gets a very unusual fading, with the vertical texture showing up even more clearly.
graphzero GZ-16ST-01OW 16OZ DROP NEEDLE HERRINGBONE JEANS STRAIGHT
16OZ HICKORY
HICKORY denim may at first glance seem similar to HERRINGBONE because of the pronounced verticality of the texture. However, it is a completely different type of weave.
This denim is inspired by Hickory fabric with pronounced vertical stripes. This fabric was used to make vintage American workwear.
Graph Zero has succeeded in translating the Hickory style into denim. If you look closely, you can see a very distinctive texture with wide vertical stripes.
The weft thread here is also dyed gray. On the wrong side, the denim looks like this:
So if you want a very unusual denim jean, we recommend the 16OZ HICKORY jeans.
graphzero GZ-16ST-01OW 16OZ HICKORY JEANS STRAIGHT
16OZ LEFT-WOVEN
Denim with a left-handed diagonal twill weave (LHT). This denim is characterized by a rather tight weave and a noticeable vertical texture.
The warp is also dyed in a dark indigo color. The weft thread is gray in color.
This creates a nice contrast when fading.
graphzero GZ-16SLST-Z01OW 16OZ LEFT-WOVEN ZIP JEANS SLIM STRAIGHT
16OZ RIGHT-WOVEN
This is a classic diagonal weave twill (RHT). If you want a conservative traditional denim jeans, this is also the right choice.
The threads are twisted quite tightly. A slight natural heterogeneity of texture is present. The warp thread here is also dyed in a dark indigo color and the weft thread this time has a classic white color.
Over time you will get a beautiful vintage style fading.
graphzero GZ-16ST-010OW 16OZ RIGHT-WOVEN JEANS STRAIGHT
15OZ HERITAGE JEANS NEP YARN
This type of denim will be interesting for those who prefer a very pronounced heterogeneity of texture. This type of denim has a beautiful slubby texture with a lot of nep elements.
graphzero GZ-15HRJ-0510NP 15OZ HERITAGE JEANS NEP YARN
15OZ HERITAGE JEANS SLUB YARN
Here the slubby texture is expressed by the variable thickness of the threads. The horizontal heterogeneity of the texture will look very nice when the jeans get fading.
graphzero GZ-15HRJ-0510SB 15OZ HERITAGE JEANS SLUB YARN
We have only given examples of the basic types of denim. In fact, Graph Zero has a lot of non-standard releases. In addition GZ produces a very interesting non-jeans collection. So if you like Graph Zero jeans we highly recommend you to check out the whole list of products of this manufacturer. We are sure that this collection will not leave you indifferent.
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