How to make ONI x VANITAS wallet?

Remember that limited edition Vanitas x Denimio Ego Mid-wallet last year? Yes, it is that stand out piece that is cool enough to impress Mike, who you might know as indigoshrimp. For you who have not heard about it, go and read about it here.

So last June, Denimio released another ONI x VANITAS collaboration wallet and it’s one of the most popular items added in customers’ wishlist. We know that some of you may be curious about how they produce each of this wallet. Without further ado, check this out:


VANITAS is a genre of still life painting in northern Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries, the period that skulls were drawn as symbols of death, roses and plants were depicted as ladies and symbol of life while wealth and power were vanity transience. Mr. Matsumura, Japanese leather artist expresses all of these in craft leather items such as wallets and bags, by maximizing his own viewpoint of usability and high technology, which can not be imitated by others. This is the brand “VANITAS“.


Firstly, come along to see product images clearly.


– Himeji vege-tan saddle leather dyed in black with “Cha-shin” technique
– Oni Aizumi fabric lining
– Box type coin case which can be used as a card container
– 6 card slots with 1 large hidden slot
– All hand-sewn
– Crafted in Japan

10.0 x 15.0 x 3.0 cm [ 3.94 x 5.90 x1.18 inches] Coin pocket: 7.0 x 10.3cm [ 2.75 x 4.05 inches]

A collaboration model of ONI DENIM and VANITAS. This is a “Rare x Rare” item. High light material is ONI AIZUMI fabric. A demoniac brand icon was chosen to build a unique character of the piece. Many fans probably know about all item features but let us amaze you by showing behind the scene steps ‘how to complete the masterpiece’

How to craft ONI x VANITAS wallet

Below are steps explanation by Mr. Matsumura, the designer of this wallet. Gentlemen, these following steps will blow your mind!

1. I draw ONI SECRET DENIM icon on leather.


2. This is the image after tracing.


3. I cut the leather only where I want to emphasize, using a swabber knife.


4. This is an image after cutting.


5. I use several pieces of a tool (called mule foot) to emboss some parts to be more clear.


6. I stamp along the line by using bevelers (technical tool)


7. When I finish embossing one stroke, I draw a foundation to lift up with flooring leather along the paper pattern.


8. I cut along the drawing lines.


9. I adjust the thickness of each part by cutting out while imagining of three-dimensional shape.



10. These are 20 pieces.



11. While attaching each part together, I adjust the height at the same time.


12. I rasp the area where the edge is too far and make rough muscle, corner radius, and hair flow.


13. It is the result of the original drawing and flooring leather.


14. I place the foundation made of flooring leather at the back of the main body, let it go three-dimensional. At this time, if the position and height (X axis, Y axis, Z axis) of all parts are not linked with the main body and foundation, the face will be distorted and it will not be a beautiful finish.


15. This part is important, I use model tool which is usually for making a statue, to prepare the details.

16. To increase osmotic pressure of the dye and make it as the core, I moisten leather.


17. I paint black dyes but leather reacts natural color originally, so it can make a gradation of brown, dark brown or black. I repeat this several times.


18. It is an image right after finishing painting. The part that looks black is actually dark brown.


19. When dry enough, I paint black pigment. I coat it several times to finish this beautifully. Pigment does not penetrate so it stays on the surface and comes off after rubbing. Anyway, if you rub it by force, the silver face will get scratched and the color will fall beautifully. As with jeans, it is important to let color down naturally.


20. When it dries, I cut to the size of the wallet and sew with AIZUMI fabric.


About hand stitches

This product is 100% all hand-sewn. The one-by-one tailoring technique is called COUSU SELLIER which is also adopted from Hermes.

I put needles at both ends of a single thread and cross the line so as to draw figure 8 and sew it. Originally, it is the ultimate hand-sewing technique that has been drawn up from harness production to make it robust.

Hand sewing requires a lot of times, efforts and accurate technical skills compared to machine sewing. Therefore it takes a huge cost while almost all leather goods in the market are made by machine.

Good point of the hand-sewing feature is beautiful and unique stitch which cannot happen with industrial products, and it is an excellent durable wallet. Even if one thread runs out, hand sewing keeps strength without causing frays and we can repair it, so it suits you who love to use a piece for a longer time.


These steps to make ONI x VANITAS collaboration wallet show you precision, intention, and vision of the brands. Upgrade and value your daily stylish by choosing a genuine craft, you will feel excellently different.