Many brands producing Japanese jeans draw a lot of their inspiration from vintage and antique pieces. This is no secret to anyone. Very often, many manufacturers have a cult following for vintage equipment. Of course, there is an explanation for this, because Japanese jeans manufacturers strive to make their product not in the fastest and cheapest way, but often in a very laborious and slow way, but definitely in the best and highest quality way. The end result is a “handmade”, “lived-in” product that is prized for its artisanal approach to production. Many manufacturers are now using the Ishikawadai designation in the names of their jeans. Let’s explore what this is all about, shall we?
It’s about an ancient yarn spinning machine that was used in the 50’s in Japan. It is an old archaic method of ring spinning yarns with very low productivity. However, the Ishikawadai machine makes it possible to produce a yarn with variable thickness along its length, without the use of modern computerized equipment.
It also has a low tension and natural texture, which gives a characteristic vintage feel and tactile comfort. These are the main properties of Ishikawadai yarns. The yarn itself can be colored in many different ways, and the jeans fabric can be woven in many different ways, resulting in very different jeans. Before we introduce our new Ishikawadai denim from Big John, let’s take a look at what different manufacturers are doing with similar yarns. Perhaps some of these jeans you already have in your personal collection.
Oni Denim
Denim from Oni is prized for its super expressive slubby texture. This brand uses Ishikawadai machine spun yarns for a very expressive 15 OZ denim. Here Oni tried to make a version of their famous Secret denim but in a medium versatile density. We see a beautiful spectacular indigo color with a sea greenish tinge combined with beige weft yarns that gives a very beautiful vintage style color. The natural “living” texture of the Ishikawadai machine spun threads makes this type of denim very interesting and attractive
Explore the collection by Oni Ishikawadai 15OZ
Denime
This old Japanese brand, part of the famous Osaka 5 association, also has a jeans model that uses threads spun on an Ishikawadai machine. In this case, Denime uses its classic 60’s style model. The Ishikawadai ring spun yarns give a natural light heterogeneity to the fabric. Unlike the Oni Denim fabric, there is no extreme slubby texture here. The texture of this denim has a more even and classic style. The denim itself was woven at the famous Japanese factory Kurabo Industries. The beautiful “pure indigo” color suggests a wonderful fading in the style of 60’s vintage jeans.
Denime Lot 224-66 (66MODEL) Ishikawadai
Studio D’Artisan
These jeans have been released for the 45th anniversary of this old and respected Japanese brand, which also like Denime is a member of Osaka 5. The denim used here is denim with a 13OZ density. This denim has a flatter and fluffier texture. The use of Ishikawadai ring spun yarns gives this fabric a special softness and comfort.
Explore the Ishikawadai 13OZ collection by Studio D’Artisan
Big John
This brand is one of the oldest producers of Japanese jeans. In this case, Big John in their new collection emphasize not only the use of threads spun on a vintage Ishikawadai machine, but also expensive long-fiber Suvin Gold cotton. This cotton variety grows in India and is a hybrid. Suvin Gold cotton comes from a cross between two varieties: Indian Sujata cotton and Caribbean Vinsent cotton.
The cultivation of Suvin Gold cotton is extremely labor intensive and yields are unstable. However, this cotton variety produces very long fibers. This makes it possible to produce exceptionally soft yarns with low twist, which in combination with the Ishikawadai spinning machine gives very comfortable soft yarns with a natural heterogeneity.
The Suvin Gold Ishikawadai collection from Big John is available in two models.
BIG JOHN S1953WS 14oz SUVIN GOLD ISHIKAWADAI REGULAR STRAIGHT
A straight cut model, not subject to changing trends.
BIG JOHN S1956WS 14oz SUVIN GOLD ISHIKAWADAI TAPERED
A modern cut with a smoothly tapered fit.
Please note that the inseam of these two jeans models is 80 cm. These jeans fit well up to a height of 180 cm.
Fabric
The denim of this model has a medium universal density of 14OZ. The texture has a very slight natural heterogeneity. Suvin Gold cotton makes this denim very tactilely comfortable and soft. The threads are dyed a dark rich indigo color, this suggests a beautiful contrasting fading over time. The denim from Big John is noticeably darker than the other jeans in our review.
This is especially noticeable when you compare denim from Big John to denim from Oni.
Details
A very beautiful patch made of thick vegetable tanned cow leather. Over time such leather will change color beautifully to a darker shade.
The flasher states that this series of jeans is made from Suvin Gold cotton.
The back pockets have a classic vintage style shape. The pocket has stitching in the middle and a reinforcing lining at the bottom.
The top corners of the back pockets are reinforced with tacked seams.
The studs are designed in a classic vintage style.
The copper rivets on the front pockets have a flat shape. This is a classic Big John rivet style, which is different from most Japanese brands. The coin pocket is vintage style with a tucked selvedge ID.
Both jeans are fastened with a heavy-duty brass zipper.
A label with the model name is sewn on the inside of the waistband.
The burlap front pockets are made of durable olive colored fabric.
In our opinion this is a great release from Big John that blends vintage and modern style, using premium long-staple cotton, yarns spun on a vintage Ishikawadai machine and authentic details inherent to Big John jeans. You’ll be able to choose any Ishikawadai jeans from your favorite brand and still get a completely different fabric that is completely unique from each manufacturer.
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