Japanese Denim Indie Brands You Need to Know

We Know The Rotation.

We understand some of your wardrobe choices: the fabrics from ONI, vintage TCB, simple and casual Japan Blue, and/or streetwear inspired Tanuki will always be in one of your go-to for daily jeans.

But have you ever wonder — is there anything else other than these?

Oh, yes. Yes, there ARE.

Here’s a small quote about COTTLE and why you will need them in your life:

…However, every once in a while you encounter a brand bursting with quality, dedication, and ambition; you just know that they are special. Let us introduce you to COTTLE and why they are more than worthy of your attention and might soon be your main supplier of uniforms for everyday living.

At 12oz, their signature denim (CTL-3450) does precisely that. It consists of 91% cotton and 9% linen. If you ever touch their denim, you will be surprised. It has the softness of hand-woven fabrics, a certain elegance, and, yet, with all the nep coming through at the surface, this feeling of incompleteness. It all comes down the yarn: The neppy linen and cotton are twisted into a single thread. The right ratio is crucial and the one percent less linen (from 10% to 9%) makes all the difference. The loose weaving makes the jeans very breathable and adds texture. It is an incredibly smooth fabric and thanks to the material, there is a natural stretch to it…

Graph Zero, another brand unknown — elaborate fabrics & quality unrivaled, read more:

…The concept itself, as the name Graph Zero (zero graph) indicates, expresses the desire of the makers to craft their product “from scratch”. They come up with a product idea and, thanks to the vertical production structure of Graph Zero, handle every step of the production themselves: weaving, dyeing, sewing.

As mentioned above, Graph Zero pays particular attention to creating denim that truly stands out of the crowd. They are incredibly nuanced, textured and patterned. We can’t recall having seen proprietary fabrics like this before. Graph Zero dare to do something truly different. You can hardly see similar types of denim from other brands.

The most recognizable and most unusual type of denim with the texture of herringbone twill. This material is not typical for the production of jeans. Graph Zero calls this fabric Sugi Ayaori. All the features of this denim will become more nuanced when the jeans are worn in. The weft has a gray tint. Two orange threads are woven into the selvedge ID. We would call this their flagship fabric!



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