A full review of ONI 982 KIRAKU has done by the denim expert ‘Indigoshrimp’. It’s time to share with you why ONI Kiraku does worth money, how special the fabric is, what technique and details did the brand use, and what Indigoshrimp thinks about ONI 982KIRAKU. Get ready to explore and let’s rock!
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Welcome back to Indigoshrimp, and I got something special for you today!
I’ve been lucky enough to obtain an early sample of this pair of jeans via the good folks at Denimio. The timing was perfect too since I was able to field test the Kiraku during the Australian heatwave that’s recently swept the continent. I’m hoping this early review might help with your purchase decision when the Kiraku drops at Denimio.
Weighing in at 12 oz, it would be natural to assume that this denim is relatively flat and uninteresting compared with heavy weight fabrics, but the Kiraku might surprise you! For the folks who are interested in the history of the Oni Denim brand, check out my earlier review of the Shin Secret Denim. Otherwise, let ’s have a look at the Kiraku denim.
FIT
The sample pair being reviewed here will be released as the ONI-982KIRAKU. Another cut, the ONI-602KIRAKU, will be available too, which is similar to the previous 622 cut. Oni fans would know that the 982 is a high tapered cut and a relatively new addition to Oni’s lineup.
The photos of the fit were taken on days 1 & 2 after quick, cold water soak to shrink up the denim a little.
In very broad terms, the 982 is a modern, lifter’s style cut with a relatively high waist. I think this is fairly evident in how this pair has fit my frame.
In the top block, there’s plenty of space for the pelvis and in the seat. The thighs are generous and can accommodate athletic legs. From just above the knee, the jeans taper rather strongly, finishing with a narrow opening near the ankles.
The fit is very similar to Oni’s well known 622 cut, the major difference being the higher rise on the 982. The rise is high enough that you won’t need to worry about any undergarments showing, regardless of how low you squat!
On my sample pair, the inseam is long enough for a double cuff after the initial soak. For reference, my measurements are 185 cm and 93 kg, wearing size 36 in the 982 cut.
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FABRIC
The Kiraku is a 12 oz unsanforised, RHT denim, woven on a truly vintage shuttle loom using natural indigo rope dyed warp and beige dyed weft.
Oni’s aim here appears to be two-fold… One, to create an enthusiast level denim which is light enough for harsh summer days. Two, to find the lowest weight limit with which Oni could produce a Secret denim texture.
It is interesting to consider, too, that the kanji for Kiraku, 楽, translates as “comfort” or “ease”. This had been confusing for me initially, as I was more familiar with the Mandarin translation of “happy” or “joy”.
The weave tension is extremely low for this denim. The overall structure is fairly loose. The relaxation of the weave, combined with a 6 x 6 year structure (traditionally used on heavier denim), has resulted in a fabric which is variegated and irregular despite its relatively lightweight.
The Kiraku would have been challenging denim to weave – kudos to the mill!
The porous weave is evident on both wearing and observation. Similar to Oni’s previous extra-low tension 14 oz fabric, you can observe some light passing through the denim when you hold these jeans up towards the sun. The same effect with air can be felt when the jeans are worn – this denim breathes very well, in comparison to the usual 14 oz + denim that is common in this hobby.
The warp face, apart from being irregularly irregular due to slubbing, is also moderately neppy. The streaks of the slubs are rather lengthy compared with other slub denim, giving the Kiraku a vertical flavor. This verticality, combined with the relative hairlessness of the warp face, further imparts a crispy, almost dry look to the Kiraku.
All things considered, the Kiraku is certainly much more intense than the usual 12 oz denim.
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The textures on the warp and weft faces are rather different. The warp is rougher – bumpy, slightly dry, full of notches & ridges. The weft is smoother, more luxurious even, and gives comfort to the skin when worn. Running my fingers on the warp face, I’m reminded of my previous experiences with the fluffy & somewhat dry cotton from the Americas. On the weft side, I’m certain there has been liberal use of long staple cotton.
The color of the denim is rather special too. I do not know the full details about the dye stuff being used (as in, the plant origin of the natural indigo), though my understanding is that this is rope-dyed natural indigo denim. Certainly, I can confirm the rope dye method by examining loose yarn.
The natural indigo dye would explain the curious variation in shades of blue this denim displays under different lighting conditions. The rope dyed nature of the warp yarns should mean the denim fades faster and with more contrast than a traditional natural hank dye fabric. I would describe the blue of this denim to be clean, vivid, moderately dark, and organic.
The weft is gently colored too – a soft tinge of beige, perhaps cheese dyed, the color penetrating through the yarn.
Details
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The detailing of these jeans is not changed from Oni’s previous releases in the last one to two years. In other words, all the bells & whistles have been installed, the arcs remain the same shape.
Oni’s patch design and the high-grade deerskin utilized for the patch are some of the nicest in this hobby. This particular leather ages extremely gracefully, though it can burn & shrivel in the dryer – for best results, always air dry your Oni Denim jeans.
The woven tag makes its trademark appearance on the inside of the waistband. Having previous experience, I know this tag will age in its own way to match the evolution of the denim & indigo. Fully customized buttons and external rivets feature. These doughnut buttons on the five-button fly, in particular, have great texture. Certainly, an upgrade compared with the laurel wreath buttons on my very old pairs of Oni Denim jeans. The punch-through rivets are customized Universal burr rivets. The copper on these rivets will oxidize over time.
Of course, hidden Universal rivets are included too, just under the bar-tacking securing the back pockets.
Overall, the sewing is neat and streamlined.
Lemon and orange threads dominate, and the colors blend together smoothly. The construct is not strict-reproduction based however, so don’t expect big, fat cotton threaded chain-stitching. Regardless, the sewing is dense and fairly regular. Important structural elements such as buttonholes, waistband, and fly seams are expertly finished.
The five belt loops are raised in the center. The attachments are neatly tacked. The pocket cloth returns to the plain but sturdy twill fabric used prior to last year’s Aizumi denim release. Not quite as monstrous as some Kurashiki sail cloth I’ve seen, but definitely more comfortable and less obtrusive against the thighs. Finally, the selvedge ID pays homage to the Secret Denim, with a slightly different configuration yet featuring the same pink threads.
Thoughts
In reviewing this new Kiraku denim, I thought there were two considerations worth exploring which are in line with Oni Denim’s development goals for this new fabric. The first question for me would be, is the Kiraku a good answer to the dilemma of wearing Japanese denim in hot weather? The other consideration would be, how does the Kirakucompare with Oni’s recent headline denim, which includes heavy-hitters such as Shin Secret, Aizumi, Kuroai, etc.?
Let’s talk about denim weight and weather.
Within the denim hobby, it is common to see a focus on heavier fabrics, especially for folks who are just starting out. Many enthusiasts, if they delve deeper into the Americana / retro menswear branches of the hobby, find themselves gravitating back towards mid-weight denim between 14 to 16 oz. Regardless, outside of strict reproduction fabrics designed to imitate pre-1960’s denim, it is very rare to come across denim that is lighter than 13 oz which would be considered interesting or worthwhile.
Further to this context is the fact that everybody has different tolerances when it comes to clothing thickness and ambient temperature. Denimheads can exist on a spectrum – at one extremity you have guys who would wear 21oz Iron Heart denim during a South East Asian summer, and on the other, there are people who refuse to wear anything but shorts once the temperature climbs into the 30’s.
As I mentioned earlier, I tested the Kiraku during the recent Australian heatwave, the hottest day in my area is 46 degrees Celsius, and I could wear the Kiraku without issue. Against the skin, not only was the denim breathable, but also the weft face was comfortable & relatively smooth. At the same time, as a texture geek, the Kiraku adequately held my attention, and I was not bored with the denim at all – in fact, I was suitably impressed by this denim, and upon touching it I’m still surprised that this intensity of grain & texture could be achieved at such a low weight. The contrast between hand-feel of the warp & weft faces is worth examining too.
This deliberate engineering of the denim indicates to me that, in many ways, the Kiraku was designed with the more advanced enthusiast in mind – someone who expects a good balance between comfort and texture, someone for whom the fad of ultra-heavy denim has worn off over the years. To answer the first question then, I’d say that the Kiraku is a very well rounded solution to the perennial “which denim to wear during summer” dilemma.
On the other hand, Kiraku could also be a good idea for beginners. Perhaps you might be anxious about the discomfort of heavy jeans, or maybe you simply do not wish to sacrifice comfort for the novelty of wearing cotton armor. Kiraku, then, is a perfect introduction to the weaves and indigo hues that are available at the top end of this denim hobby. It is a shorter leap to make, after all, transitioning from 10 oz mall-brand jeans to this 12 oz denim, compared with a deep dive to the 20 oz Secret denim.
Lighter weight aside, is Kiraku comparable to Oni’s heavier denim?
Oni wanted to see how low they could go with denim weight whilst still maintaining a Secret denim texture. To be completely realistic, of course, a 12 oz denim cannot be as detailed as a 20 oz denim – there’re just so much less thickness and cotton to work with – though I must say that I’ve never seen another lightweight fabric which even begins to approach the complex hand-feel of Kiraku. So, whilst Kiraku is slightly flatter and less complex compared with the original Secret denim, it’s perhaps best to think of the Kiraku as the 12 oz manifestation of the Secret denim weave, rather than trying to compare apples with oranges.
The natural indigo dye is a welcome contrast to the recent greens and inks which have tinted Oni’s headline denim. You can’t go wrong with a soothing, organic blue. This shade of indigo is appealing and approachable, making the Kiraku rather versatile denim that will easily match any T-shirt or sneakers on a hot summer day.
To answer the second question then, I’d say Kiraku is best conceptualized as a new standard in lightweight denim weave, its current manifestation being versatile & approachable. Therefore, the Kiraku definitely has a place among Oni’s enthusiast-grade fabrics.
Are there any downsides to this denim, you might ask? Well, to balance out this review, I should mention that a combination of low tension, loose weave and lightweight could potentially impact on the durability of the Kiraku denim compared with heavier, denser denim. With regards to durability, I cannot draw any conclusions yet – only time will tell.
On a different note, this is my first experience with Oni’s 982 cut, and I must say I’m enjoying Oni Kiraku 982immensely thus far.
I’ve noticed it is fairly similar to Tanuki’s HT cut, and again I will comment that the two brands share many similarities in their jeans. (If examined closely, you will notice the Kiraku denim has certain similarities with Tanuki’s Kaze denimtoo!)
The 982 high tapered cut works well with my body shape, and proves to be a much improved “export” cut compared with Oni fits from previous years, as far as non-Asian markets are concerned. I should say this cut will probably not work well for slim people, as the thighs and seat will be too baggy if you don’t have some meat on your bones. For everyone else, the 982 will integrate nicely into modern Americana, casual-wear and street-wear wardrobes.
All in all, the Kiraku certainly sets a new standard for light denims. Apart from presenting the enthusiast with a neat balance of texture and comfort, the Kiraku denim is an awesome achievement from the perspective of denim engineering. The texture: weight proposition is ridiculously good, and the indigo hues from the natural dye is pretty spectacular in sunlight too! I very much look forward to seeing this particular weave being made with different indigo hues and sulfur dyes in the future.
At an RRP of JPY23,000, the ONI-982KIRAKU can be considered to have great value, factoring in the ridiculous R & D effort over years that have been invested in its creation, and the use of natural indigo dye of course. This newest release from Oni Denim is an easy recommendation for both beginners & collectors, and if you’re specifically looking for a pair of summer jeans, the Kiraku will need to be one of the top picks.
Check them out first, and at the best pricing, with Denimio. Early reviews are something I’ve been hoping to do on this blog for a while, and rare is the opportunity to organize this with a Japanese maker, so many thanks to the cool guys & girls at Denimio for getting me lined up.
We guess all the informative things above are clear and make you know more about ONI-982KIRAKU. We also have share insight story about ONI Kiraku denim on our previous blog post, so click here to read more.
Inilah ulasan ONI982 KIRAKU oleh denim expert ‘Indigoshrimp’. Kami ingin berbagi informasi mengenai kepopuleran ONI Kiraku; dengan fabrik, pengerjaan teknikal dan segala detail spesial yang merupakan konstruksi jeans istimewa ini.Apakah pendapat Indigoshrimp tentang ONI982 KIRAKU ini?
Baca ulasan selengkapnya, hanya di Denimio!
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Sesuatu yang spesial untuk kalian semua!
Saya merasa sangat beruntung karena mendapatkan jeans pertama fabrik terbaru ini dari staf Denimio. Pengiriman jeans ini tepat di musim panas, dimana saya bisa mencoba mengenakan jeans Kiraku ini dalam cuaca panas di Australia. Saya harap ulasan ini akan membantu Anda memutuskan jika Anda ingin mendapatkan Kiraku di Denimio.
Bagi penggemar denim yang belum mengenal Oni Kiraku, denim 12oz ini mungkin dianggap tidak cukup menarik jika dibandingkan dengan denim berat lainnya. Namun, pada kenyataannya, Oni Kiraku akan mengesankan Anda! Bagi Anda yang tertarik dengan sejarah merek Oni Denim, silahkan baca informasi selengkapnya di ulasan Shin Secret Denim. Kini, mari kita simak lebih detail mengenai denim Kiraku terbaru ini.
FIT
Foto fitting di bawah ini adalah ONI-982KIRAKU. Cutting ONI-602KIRAKU juga tersedia dimana cutting tersebut didesain berdasarkan model 622. Penggemar berat Oni Denim tentunya mengetahui bahwa 982 merupakan cutting high tapered fit yang merupakan koleksi terbaru Oni Denim.
Foto-foto fit ini diambil pada hari pertama dan kedua setelah jeans direndam dengan air dingin. Hal ini menyebabkan adanya sedikit penyusutan pada ukuran jeans.
982 merupakan cutting modern dengan desain rise dan pinggang yang relatif tinggi. Itu sebabnya, jeans ini memberikan fit sempurna sesuai dengan bentuk tubuh saya.
Jeans ini menyediakan banyak ruang pada bagian belakang. Bagian paha memiliki ruang yang cukup dan cocok dikenakan bagi Anda yang memiliki aktivitas keseharian yang aktif. Jeans ini memiliki cutting ramping dimulai dari bagian atas lutut dan pembukaan yang sempit di bagian pergelangan kaki.
Fitting jeans 982 ini didesain berdasarkan cutting Oni 622 yang terkenal, namun dengan rise yang lebih tinggi. Desain ini memungkinkan Anda untuk menghindari situasi dimana pakaian dalam Anda yang tidak sengaja terlihat saat Anda sedang berjongkok!
Bagian inseam memiliki ukuran yang cukup panjang untuk melakukan double cuff setelah perendaman awal. Sebagai referensi Anda, saya memiliki tinggi 185 cm dan berat 93 kg, mengenakan ukuran 36 dengan jeans ber-cutting 982.
Fitting jeans merupakan pilihan yang sangat subyektif. Namun, berdasarkan pengalaman saya, cutting 982 sangat sesuai untuk dikenakan oleh para penghobi denim yang memiliki bentuk tubuh yang lebih atletis.
Denim dengan cutting 982 ini umumnya populer dikenakan oleh orang Barat dibandingkan dengan cutting denim Jepang lainnya, yang cenderung sempit di bagian atas jeans.
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FABRIK
Kiraku merupakan unsanforised denim dengan berat 12oz. Denim ini dianyam dengan mesin tenun shuttle vintage dan menggunakan teknik rope dye untuk mewarnai bagian warp dengan material indigo alami dan weft yang berwarna beige.
Oni Denim ingin mewujudkan dua keinginan melalui denim ini… Pertama, menghasilkan jeans ringan yang cocok untuk musim panas. Kedua, berekspresimen untuk menciptakan fabrik paling ringan bertekstur secret denim.
Menariknya, huruf kanji untuk Kiraku 楽 dapat diterjemahkan sebagai “kenyamanan” atau “kemudahan”. Pada awalnya, terjemahan ini sangat membingungkan karena saya terbiasa dengan terjemahan dalam Bahasa Mandarin, yang diterjemahkan sebagai “kesenangan” atau “kegembiraan”.
Denim ini memiliki ketegangan penenunan yang sangat rendah. Secara keseluruhan, denim ini memiliki struktur agak longgar. Ciri longgar berstruktur 6 x 6 ini (secara tradisional digunakan pada denim berat) menghasilkan tekstur tidak teratur yang menarik.
Denim Kiraku merupakan inovasi terbaru yang luar biasa!
Pori-pori benang dapat diamati secara nyata dan Anda rasakan saat mengenakannya. Sama seperti fabrik 14oz Oni berketegangan rendah lainnya, Anda dapat mengamati adanya sedikit cahaya yang menembusi denim saat Anda memegang jeans ini di bawah sinar matahari. Di samping itu, Anda dapat merasakan udara yang menembus denim ini; pengenaan yang terasa lebih nyaman dibandingkan dengan denim 14oz dan bahkan denim berat lainnya.
Permukaan benang warp memiliki tekstur neppy, slubby dan tidak teratur. Pola slubby pada denim ini memiliki tekstur yang lebih kasar dari denim slubby lainnya – dengan garis yang lebih panjang berpola vertikal. Selain itu, tekstur hairy yang diciptakan oleh benang wrap memberikan tampilan crispy pada denim Kiraku ini.
Dengan semua karakter tersebut, Kiraku terbukti memiliki elemen yang intens jika dibandingkan dengan denim 12oz lainnya.
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Benang wrap dan weft memiliki tekstur yang sangat berbeda. Benang warp memiliki tekstur yang lebih kasar – bergelombang dan sedikit kering. Benang weft memiliki tekstur yang lebih halus, merata dan terasa nyaman. Saya mencoba menyentuh permukaan benang warp. Ia terasa seperti kapas Amerika yang berkarakter lembut dan kering. Pada segi benang weft, saya yakin kapas berserat panjang digunakan untuk menciptakan tekstur halus tersebut.
Teknik pewarnaan denim ini juga cukup spesial. Saya tidak tahu detail lengkap mengenai material pewarnaan yang digunakan (asal tanaman yang menghasilkan pewarnaan indigo alami), meskipun saya mengetahui bahwa denim ini diwarnai dengan mengunakan bahan indigo alami. Namun tentu saja, saya dapat mengamati hasil pewarnaan teknik rope-dye denim ini dari bagian benang tenun yang longgar dari denim ini.
Pewarnaan indigo alami denim ini menciptakan penampilan biru denim yang bervariasi di bawah kondisi pencahayaan yang berbeda. Teknik pewarnaan rope dye pada benang warp akan menghasilkan hasil fading denim yang lebih cepat dan lebih kontras daripada fabrik yang diwarnai secara tradisional lainnya. Denim biru ini terlihat minimalis, kontras, sedikit gelap dan organik.
Benang weft juga diwarnai – memiliki warna beige seperti warna keju, dimana warna tersebut menembusi benang fabrik secara mendalam.
Detail
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Detail jeans ini tidak terlalu berbeda dari koleksi Oni dalam satu hingga dua tahun belakangan ini. Dengan kata lain, detail bell & whistle dan bentuk arcs memiliki desain yang sama. Trademark patch kulit rusa Oni hanya menggunakan material berkualitas terbaik.
Patch kulit rusa ini akan mengalami penuaan dengan baik, namun mudah terbakar apabila dikeringkan dengan mengenakan dryer – Anda akan mendapatkan hasil penuaan yang lebih bagus jika Anda mengeringkan jeans ini dengan cara dijemur.
Tag trademark Oni ditampilan pada bagian waistband. Tag ini akan mengalami penuaan dengan cara yang unik sesuai dengan evolusi denim indigo ini. Kancing fully-customized dan rivets dapat diamati.
Kancing donat dan 5-kancing button fly terlihat menonjol pada tekstur denim ini. Tentu saja, kancing ini memiliki kualitas dan penampilan yang lebih baik dibandingkan dengan kancing jeans laurel wreath pada jeans Oni Denim lainnya. Rivet punch-through custom dengan desain Universal burr. Material tembaga pada rivet akan mengalami oksidasi seiring waktu.
Hidden rivet Universal juga ditemukan pada bagian belakang saku bar-tacking. Seluruh jahitan memiliki pengerjaan yang indah dan rapi. Benang berwarna kuning dan jingga yang dominan menghasilkan kombinasi warna yang alami.
Konstruksi jeans ini tidak diproduksi berdasarkan desain tradisional, jadi Anda tidak akan menemukan hasil penjahitan chainstitching yang besar dan tebal.
Namun, dapat diperhatikan bahwa hasil penjahitan jeans ini cukup teratur dan padat. Struktur lubang kancing, waistband dan penjahitan fly dikerjakan secara profesional.
Lima belt loops tersedia pada bagian waistband. Penjahitan diselesaikan dengan rapi. Kain saku memiliki desain polos namun kokoh karena dikerjakan dengan fabrik twill yang kuat yang juga digunakan pada denim Aizumi tahun lalu.
Berbeda dari denim Kurashiki lainnya, denim ini jelas lebih nyaman dan memiliki lebih banyak ruang di bagian paha. Selvedge ID denim ini menampilkan karakter secret denim dengan konfigurasi berwarna merah muda yang kontras.
Pendapat Pribadi
Dalam ulasan denim baru Kiraku ini, saya memikirkan dua pertimbangan yang perlu dibahas dalam fabrik baru Oni Denim ini. Pertama, apakah fabrik baru ini merupakan solusi terbaik bagi para penghobi denim untuk mengenakan denim pada musim panas? Kedua, apakah perbedaan denim Kiraku jika dibandingkan dengan koleksi denim berat lainnya seperti Shin Secret, Aizumi, Kuroai, dll?
Mari kita bahas mengenai berat denim dan cuaca.
Pada umumnya, para denimhead meminati fabrik yang lebih berat terutama bagi penghobi denim baru. Kebanyakan denimhead akan lebih tertarik dengan denim berbobot sedang antara 14oz dan 16oz bergaya retro/Amerika. Oleh karena itu, produksi fabrik biasanya mengikuti gaya denim dari tahun 1960-an. Sangat sulit bagi penghobi untuk menganggap denim ringan 13oz sebagai denim yang menarik.
Selain itu, setiap orang mempunyai toleransi yang berbeda mengenai ketebalan pakaian dan juga suhu udara. Beberapa penghobi denim dapat mengenakan denim Iron Heart 21oz pada musim panas di Asia Tenggara dan beberapa penghobi denim lainnya memilih untuk hanya mengenakan celana pendek ketika suhu udara melebih 30 derajat.
Seperti yang saya sebutkan, saya menguji Kiraku pada musim panas Australia dimana suhu terpanas dapat mencapai 46 derajat Celcius, dan saya mengenakan denim Kiraku ini tanpa kepanasan. Fabrik denim ini tidak hanya dapat ditembus udara, namun permukaan benang weft denim ini juga terasa nyaman & cukup halus. Dalam hal tekstur, Kiraku berhasil membuat saya terkesan dengan karakter unik denim ringan ini. Tekstur kontras di antara permukaan benang warp dan & weft boleh Anda amati.
Teknologi maju yang digunakan untuk memproduksi denim ini menunjukkan bahwa standar Kiraku didesain secara teliti. Fabrik ini dirancang oleh spesialis denim profesional yang ingin menciptakan keseimbangan terbaik antara kenyamanan dan tekstur yang biasanya hanya ditemukan pada denim berat. Untuk menjawab poin pertama tadi, saya dapat mengatakan bahwa Kiraku merupakan solusi terbaik sebagai “denim yang cocok dipakai selama musim panas”.
Di sisi lain, Kiraku juga merupakan koleksi pembelian pertama yang sesuai bagi pemula penghobi denim. Mungkin beberapa dari Anda khawatir jika denim yang tebal akan terasa tidak nyaman atau beberapa dari Anda yang menyukai denim berat tidak berani mencoba denim ringan. Kiraku merupakan denim berkualitas yang Anda bisa coba dengan hasil penenunan benang indigo premium. Anda akan takjub akan tekstur denim yang menampilkan karakter secret denim 20 oz.
Apakah denim Kiraku sebanding dengan denim berat pada koleksi Oni lainnya?
Oni ingin bereksperimen dan menghasilkan denim paling ringan sambil mempertahankan tekstur secret denim. Secara realistis, denim 12 oz tidak memiliki tekstur sedetail denim 20 oz dikarenakan oleh ketebalan fabrik dan kapas yang digunakan. Namun, saya belum pernah melihat fabrik ringan dengan tekstur yang begitu kompleks seperti denim Kiraku. Walaupun Kiraku memiliki tekstur yang tidak serumit secret denim, bisa dipertimbangkan bahwa Kiraku dapat dianggap sebagai manifestasi denim 12oz dengan teknik penenunan secret denim dibandingkan dengan produk lainnya.
Pewarnaan indigo alami denim ini menampilkan hasil kontras berwarna hijau yang menjadi karakter khas Oni. Anda akan terkesan dengan warna biru organik. Kepribadian nuansa indigo ini cukup menarik, membuat Kiraku bagus dipadankan dengan T-shirt ataupun sneaker di musim panas.
Untuk menjawab persoalan kedua, saya berpendapat bahwa Kiraku mampu menghasilkan konsep terbaik sebagai standar baru dalam denim ringan, stylish & juga mudah dipadankan. Oleh karena itu, Kiraku akan menjadi sebuah inovasi yang populer dalam di antara para penggemar fabrik Oni.
Apakah ada kekurangan denim ini? Nah, harus saya sebutkan bahwa kombinasi dari penenunan bertegangan rendah, longgar dan ringan berpotensi dalam mempengaruhi ketahanan lama denim jika dibandingkan dengan denim berat lainnya. Saya tidak dapat memastikan ketahanan denim ini karena hanya waktu yang akan membuktikannya.
Selain itu, ini adalah pengalaman pertama saya dengan Oni 982 dan sejauh ini, saya sangat menikmati Oni Kiraku 982.
Saya perhatikan bahwa denim ini memiliki cutting yang sangat mirip dengan Tanuki HT dan kedua merek memiliki banyak kesamaan. (Jika Anda periksa dengan cermat, Anda akan memperhatikan persamaan denim Kiraku dengan denim Kaze Tanuki!)
Denim 982 dengan cutting high tapered sangat cocok dengan bentuk tubuh saya dan terbukti lebih cocok daripada cutting Oni lama lainnya. Harus katakan bahwa cutting ini mungkin tidak cocok dengan Anda bertubuh ramping karena akan terasa longgar pada bagian paha. Selain itu, 982 memiliki gaya Amerika modern, cocok sebagai pakaian kasual dan pakaian bergaya street style.
Pada kesimpulannya, Kiraku berhasil menciptakan standar baru denim ringan. Selain menampilkan keseimbangan tekstur dan kenyamanan denim ringan, denim Kiraku adalah inovasi terbaik dalam perspektif teknik. Tekstur dan berat denim ini sangat bagus, dengan warna indigo alami yang tampil menakjubkan di bawah sinar matahari! Saya harap teknik penenunan ini akan diinovasikan dengan nuansa indigo yang berbeda di masa depan.
Dengan harga 23.000 JPY, ONI-982KIRAKU memiliki nilai yang bagus dengan kualitas denim yang tinggi. Proses eksperimen untuk menghasilkan inovasi denim ini membutuhkan waktu yang cukup panjang apalagi denim ini diwarnai menggunakan pewarna indigo alami. Produk terbaru Oni Denim adalah rekomendasi yang baik untuk pemula penghobi denim baru & juga para kolektor denim jika Anda menginginkan jeans yang khusus Anda kenakan di musim panas. Kiraku akan menjadi pilihan yang tepat bagi Anda.
Dapatkan sekarang dengan harga terbaik di Denimio.
Terima kasih karena telah menghadirkan saya pada ulasan awal denim ini.
Informasi di atas tentunya membuat Anda lebih mengenal ONI-982KIRAKU. Kami juga menghadirkan informasi mengenai denim ONI Kiraku pada blog kami yang sebelumnya, jadi silahkan klik sini untuk baca lebih lanjut.
单宁專家’Indigoshrimp’對ONI 982 KIRAKU進行彻头彻尾的分析。 是時候和你分享為什麼ONI Kiraku绝对物超所值、面料有多特別、品牌使用什麼樣的技術、細節，以及Indigoshrimp對ONI 982 KIRAKU的看法。 準備好体验，讓我們感受吧！
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热烈歡迎Indigoshrimp，我们今天要把最特别的送给你！
我很幸运能够透过好夥伴 Denimio 提早拿到这条牛仔裤， 让我能够在最近横扫澳大周热浪期间对 Kiraku 进行实际测试，抵达时机非常完美。 我希望这篇评论能有助于你的决定要不要购入就在 Denimio.
重量为12盎司，自然会认为这款牛仔布相对于重磅面料而言应该是平整且相对无趣，但Kiraku会让您大吃一惊！ 对 Oni Denim 品牌感兴趣的人，可以阅读我之前对 Shin Secret Denim 的评论。 不然，就让我们来看看Kiraku denim.
剪裁FIT
这里讨论的是即将发布的 ONI-982KIRAKU， 另外一剪裁 ONI-602KIRAKU,也将上市，与之前的622剪裁类似。 Oni粉丝知道982是一款高度锥形剪裁，也是Oni产品系列的新系列。
在快速使用冷水浸泡后第1天和第2天拍摄上身照片，使得牛仔布略微缩小。
整体， 982 是一款现代、相对高腰剪裁。 我认为很明显的这件裤子很适合我的身型。
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面料FABRIC
非常多孔细穿上或肉眼都很明显。 和Oni之前的超低密度14盎司类似，当您将这些牛仔裤朝向太阳时，您可以透过牛仔布看到穿过的光线。 穿牛仔裤时也感受的到与气流 – 这种牛仔裤的散热非常好，当然是跟广受欢迎14盎司相比。
经纱除了因粗细不规则、保有一定程度的粗糙感。 与其他竹节牛仔布相比，竹节条纹相当长，使Kiraku看的出垂直的线条。 这种垂直性与经纱的相比较赋予Kiraku乾脆、几乎整洁的表面。
考虑上述，
Kiraku 肯定比一般12盎司牛仔布表现更强烈。
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经纱和纬纱面上的纹理显得不同。经纱比较粗糙(充满了凹槽和隆起)。纬则倾向平滑、让穿着时舒适。我的手指在经纱面上，我想起了我之前使用来自美洲的蓬松和干燥棉花的经历。在纬纱方面，我确信很多已经开始采用使用长纤维的棉。
牛仔布的颜色也很特别。我不清楚染料的全部（如可能是天然靛蓝的植物来源），即使我知道这是天然靛蓝绳染。当然，我可以通过低密度纱线来确认染色方法。
天然靛蓝染料就能解释，不同光照条件下，这种牛仔布蓝色色调会有不同变化。经纱的绳染特徵，表示牛仔布比传统的天然绞纱染色制品产生对比度更快。我会说这款牛仔布的蓝色是非常天然、有活力、带有中等暗色且富有趣味。
纬线没有过度著色 – 带有柔和米色，也许是奶酪染色。
细节Details
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这些牛仔裤的细节没有与 Oni之前裤型有太大差异。 换句话说，所有金属件都完好的设计，拱型图案维持相同。Oni的皮标设计的高级鹿皮品牌爱好者最热衷的。
特殊皮革显得非常高雅，虽然它可以烘干机 – 不过为达到最佳效果，建议让Oni Denim牛仔裤都使用自然风干。缝制上的商标就在腰带内侧。有了先前的经验，我知道这个标签会以自己的方式蜕变、跟著落色一起变化。完全特制化的钮扣和铆钉。
特别五钮扣、甜甜圈形状的钮扣特别有质感。 和我旧款 Oni Denim牛仔裤上的桂冠扣相比好像升级。
穿透的铆钉用的是Universal特制的铆钉。铜烤漆的铆钉会随著时间氧化。当然隐藏的铆钉也同样很好的设计，就在后口袋。整体而言，缝线整洁且非常顺畅。橙黄色的缝线为主要，颜色非常好的与牛仔裤结合。
裤子的结构非常严谨的完成，所以不要期待是肥后的车缝线交叠而成。无论如何，车缝看出相当平整而且规律。从钮扣孔、腰部缝线还有交接处的车缝都看得出来非常专业的制作技术。
五个皮带孔中央也良好的凸起方便使用。这些细节都照顾到了。口袋的内部布料非常平整使用跟去年Aizumi是一样的方式。不像我试过的Kurashiki布料那样粗犷，这绝对更舒适，而且不会凸显大腿。最后的布边就是向Secret Denim致敬，其方式稍微不同，不过都是用粉红色车线。
想法Thoughts
我们来聊聊牛仔布的磅数和天气。
爱好者当中，人们常常把重点放在较重的面料上，尤其是刚开始的人。许多爱好者，如果他们深入研究这个喜欢美国/复古男装，就会发现自己会想要追求14至16盎司的中等重量牛仔布。无论如何，除了模仿1960年代牛仔布之前的严格复制面料外，很少遇到轻于13盎司的牛仔布，于是会是有趣或值得的。
除此之外，在衣服厚度和环境温度方面，每个人都有不同的看法。 Denimheads可以存在于一个范围内 – 有一些人肯在东南亚夏天穿着21盎司的Iron Heart牛仔布，而另一边，有些人一旦气温超过30度就拒绝穿牛仔裤。
像我提过的，最近的澳大利亚热浪期间我特地测试Kiraku，所在地区最热的一天是46摄氏度，我可以毫无问题地穿着Kiraku活动。感受来说不指牛仔布透气，而且纬纱面也算舒适，且相对光滑。同时，作为一个竹节感的爱好者，Kiraku充分吸引了我的注意力 – 事实上，我对这款布料印象深刻，触摸它时很惊讶在如此低的磅数下，有这样的颗粒和质地强度。经纱和纬纱的手感也值得投资。
Kiraku可与Oni的重磅裤媲美吗？
Oni希望了解牛仔布重量可以到多低，且保有秘密面料纹理。当然，要完全一样，12盎司牛仔布可能无法如20盎司牛仔布那样细致 – 棉花的厚度要少得多 – 我必须说我从未见过另一种轻质面料可以接近Kiraku复杂的手感。因此，虽然与原始的秘密牛仔布相比，Kiraku稍微扁平且不那么粗犷，但最好将Kiraku视为秘密面料在12盎司表现，而不是拿著苹果跟橙子的表皮进行比较。
天然靛蓝染与最近的绿色和油墨形成了鲜明的对比，这些绿色和油墨有着Oni的标题牛仔布。你可以用舒缓的蓝色来解决问题。这款靛蓝色调具有吸引力和平易近人的特点，使得Kiraku相当多才多艺的牛仔布在炎热的夏日可轻松搭配任何T恤或运动鞋。
为了回答第二个问题，我想说的是，Kiraku最好被概念化为轻质牛仔布技术的新标准，它目前的表现形式相当优越且平易近人。因此，Kiraku肯定在Oni的热卖款占有一席之地。
你可能会问，这款有什么缺点吗？平衡报导，我应该提到低密度，宽松编织和轻量化的组合可能会影响Kiraku牛仔布的耐用性，不如更重、更高密度的牛仔布。当然关于是不是耐用、耐穿，目前还没有任何结论 – 只有时间会证明。
总而言之，Kiraku确实为轻量丹宁树立新标准。除了为爱好者提供质地和舒适的平衡设计外。Kiraku denim从牛仔布制作工法的角度来看也是一项非常棒的成就。质地：非天然染料的靛蓝色调在阳光下也非常显而易见！我非常期待看到这种特殊的编织在未来用不同的靛蓝色调和硫化染料制成。
以23,000日元的RRP，ONI-982KIRAKU 可以被认为具有很大的价值，可以考虑多年来为其创作投入研发工作的成本，以及使用天然靛蓝染料的工本费。这款来自Oni Denim的最新版本对于初学者和收藏家来说都是推荐商品，更别说如果你专门想找一条夏季牛仔裤，Kiraku将成为首选之一。
首先，以最优惠的价格与Denimio.确认过。早期我一直希望能够在这个网站的部落格有一席之地，毕竟很少有机会和日本厂家沟通。再次感谢Denimio.团队让我有机会尝鲜。
我们希望上方的所有资讯都清楚介绍产品，让您了解有关ONI-982KIRAKU的讯息。我们在之前的文章中也有与ONI Kiraku denim相关的分享，欢迎点击这里阅读更多内容。
A full review of ONI 982 KIRAKU has done by the denim expert ‘Indigoshrimp’. It’s time to share with you why ONI Kiraku does worth money, how special the fabric is, what technique and details did the brand use, and what Indigoshrimp thinks about ONI 982KIRAKU. Get ready to explore and let’s rock!
*Click the photos for the best quality!
Welcome back to Indigoshrimp, and I got something special for you today!
I’ve been lucky enough to obtain an early sample of this pair of jeans via the good folks at Denimio. The timing was perfect too since I was able to field test the Kiraku during the Australian heatwave that’s recently swept the continent. I’m hoping this early review might help with your purchase decision when the Kiraku drops at Denimio.
Weighing in at 12 oz, it would be natural to assume that this denim is relatively flat and uninteresting compared with heavy weight fabrics, but the Kiraku might surprise you! For the folks who are interested in the history of the Oni Denim brand, check out my earlier review of the Shin Secret Denim. Otherwise, let ’s have a look at the Kiraku denim.
FIT
The sample pair being reviewed here will be released as the ONI-982KIRAKU. Another cut, the ONI-602KIRAKU, will be available too, which is similar to the previous 622 cut. Oni fans would know that the 982 is a high tapered cut and a relatively new addition to Oni’s lineup.
The photos of the fit were taken on days 1 & 2 after quick, cold water soak to shrink up the denim a little.
In very broad terms, the 982 is a modern, lifter’s style cut with a relatively high waist. I think this is fairly evident in how this pair has fit my frame.
In the top block, there’s plenty of space for the pelvis and in the seat. The thighs are generous and can accommodate athletic legs. From just above the knee, the jeans taper rather strongly, finishing with a narrow opening near the ankles.
The fit is very similar to Oni’s well known 622 cut, the major difference being the higher rise on the 982. The rise is high enough that you won’t need to worry about any undergarments showing, regardless of how low you squat!
On my sample pair, the inseam is long enough for a double cuff after the initial soak. For reference, my measurements are 185 cm and 93 kg, wearing size 36 in the 982 cut.
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FABRIC
The Kiraku is a 12 oz unsanforised, RHT denim, woven on a truly vintage shuttle loom using natural indigo rope dyed warp and beige dyed weft.
Oni’s aim here appears to be two-fold… One, to create an enthusiast level denim which is light enough for harsh summer days. Two, to find the lowest weight limit with which Oni could produce a Secret denim texture.
It is interesting to consider, too, that the kanji for Kiraku, 楽, translates as “comfort” or “ease”. This had been confusing for me initially, as I was more familiar with the Mandarin translation of “happy” or “joy”.
The weave tension is extremely low for this denim. The overall structure is fairly loose. The relaxation of the weave, combined with a 6 x 6 year structure (traditionally used on heavier denim), has resulted in a fabric which is variegated and irregular despite its relatively lightweight.
The Kiraku would have been challenging denim to weave – kudos to the mill!
The porous weave is evident on both wearing and observation. Similar to Oni’s previous extra-low tension 14 oz fabric, you can observe some light passing through the denim when you hold these jeans up towards the sun. The same effect with air can be felt when the jeans are worn – this denim breathes very well, in comparison to the usual 14 oz + denim that is common in this hobby.
The warp face, apart from being irregularly irregular due to slubbing, is also moderately neppy. The streaks of the slubs are rather lengthy compared with other slub denim, giving the Kiraku a vertical flavor. This verticality, combined with the relative hairlessness of the warp face, further imparts a crispy, almost dry look to the Kiraku.
All things considered, the Kiraku is certainly much more intense than the usual 12 oz denim.
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The textures on the warp and weft faces are rather different. The warp is rougher – bumpy, slightly dry, full of notches & ridges. The weft is smoother, more luxurious even, and gives comfort to the skin when worn. Running my fingers on the warp face, I’m reminded of my previous experiences with the fluffy & somewhat dry cotton from the Americas. On the weft side, I’m certain there has been liberal use of long staple cotton.
The color of the denim is rather special too. I do not know the full details about the dye stuff being used (as in, the plant origin of the natural indigo), though my understanding is that this is rope-dyed natural indigo denim. Certainly, I can confirm the rope dye method by examining loose yarn.
The natural indigo dye would explain the curious variation in shades of blue this denim displays under different lighting conditions. The rope dyed nature of the warp yarns should mean the denim fades faster and with more contrast than a traditional natural hank dye fabric. I would describe the blue of this denim to be clean, vivid, moderately dark, and organic.
The weft is gently colored too – a soft tinge of beige, perhaps cheese dyed, the color penetrating through the yarn.
Details
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The detailing of these jeans is not changed from Oni’s previous releases in the last one to two years. In other words, all the bells & whistles have been installed, the arcs remain the same shape.
Oni’s patch design and the high-grade deerskin utilized for the patch are some of the nicest in this hobby. This particular leather ages extremely gracefully, though it can burn & shrivel in the dryer – for best results, always air dry your Oni Denim jeans.
The woven tag makes its trademark appearance on the inside of the waistband. Having previous experience, I know this tag will age in its own way to match the evolution of the denim & indigo. Fully customized buttons and external rivets feature. These doughnut buttons on the five-button fly, in particular, have great texture. Certainly, an upgrade compared with the laurel wreath buttons on my very old pairs of Oni Denim jeans. The punch-through rivets are customized Universal burr rivets. The copper on these rivets will oxidize over time.
Of course, hidden Universal rivets are included too, just under the bar-tacking securing the back pockets.
Overall, the sewing is neat and streamlined.
Lemon and orange threads dominate, and the colors blend together smoothly. The construct is not strict-reproduction based however, so don’t expect big, fat cotton threaded chain-stitching. Regardless, the sewing is dense and fairly regular. Important structural elements such as buttonholes, waistband, and fly seams are expertly finished.
The five belt loops are raised in the center. The attachments are neatly tacked. The pocket cloth returns to the plain but sturdy twill fabric used prior to last year’s Aizumi denim release. Not quite as monstrous as some Kurashiki sail cloth I’ve seen, but definitely more comfortable and less obtrusive against the thighs. Finally, the selvedge ID pays homage to the Secret Denim, with a slightly different configuration yet featuring the same pink threads.
Thoughts
In reviewing this new Kiraku denim, I thought there were two considerations worth exploring which are in line with Oni Denim’s development goals for this new fabric. The first question for me would be, is the Kiraku a good answer to the dilemma of wearing Japanese denim in hot weather? The other consideration would be, how does the Kirakucompare with Oni’s recent headline denim, which includes heavy-hitters such as Shin Secret, Aizumi, Kuroai, etc.?
Let’s talk about denim weight and weather.
Within the denim hobby, it is common to see a focus on heavier fabrics, especially for folks who are just starting out. Many enthusiasts, if they delve deeper into the Americana / retro menswear branches of the hobby, find themselves gravitating back towards mid-weight denim between 14 to 16 oz. Regardless, outside of strict reproduction fabrics designed to imitate pre-1960’s denim, it is very rare to come across denim that is lighter than 13 oz which would be considered interesting or worthwhile.
Further to this context is the fact that everybody has different tolerances when it comes to clothing thickness and ambient temperature. Denimheads can exist on a spectrum – at one extremity you have guys who would wear 21oz Iron Heart denim during a South East Asian summer, and on the other, there are people who refuse to wear anything but shorts once the temperature climbs into the 30’s.
As I mentioned earlier, I tested the Kiraku during the recent Australian heatwave, the hottest day in my area is 46 degrees Celsius, and I could wear the Kiraku without issue. Against the skin, not only was the denim breathable, but also the weft face was comfortable & relatively smooth. At the same time, as a texture geek, the Kiraku adequately held my attention, and I was not bored with the denim at all – in fact, I was suitably impressed by this denim, and upon touching it I’m still surprised that this intensity of grain & texture could be achieved at such a low weight. The contrast between hand-feel of the warp & weft faces is worth examining too.
This deliberate engineering of the denim indicates to me that, in many ways, the Kiraku was designed with the more advanced enthusiast in mind – someone who expects a good balance between comfort and texture, someone for whom the fad of ultra-heavy denim has worn off over the years. To answer the first question then, I’d say that the Kiraku is a very well rounded solution to the perennial “which denim to wear during summer” dilemma.
On the other hand, Kiraku could also be a good idea for beginners. Perhaps you might be anxious about the discomfort of heavy jeans, or maybe you simply do not wish to sacrifice comfort for the novelty of wearing cotton armor. Kiraku, then, is a perfect introduction to the weaves and indigo hues that are available at the top end of this denim hobby. It is a shorter leap to make, after all, transitioning from 10 oz mall-brand jeans to this 12 oz denim, compared with a deep dive to the 20 oz Secret denim.
Lighter weight aside, is Kiraku comparable to Oni’s heavier denim?
Oni wanted to see how low they could go with denim weight whilst still maintaining a Secret denim texture. To be completely realistic, of course, a 12 oz denim cannot be as detailed as a 20 oz denim – there’re just so much less thickness and cotton to work with – though I must say that I’ve never seen another lightweight fabric which even begins to approach the complex hand-feel of Kiraku. So, whilst Kiraku is slightly flatter and less complex compared with the original Secret denim, it’s perhaps best to think of the Kiraku as the 12 oz manifestation of the Secret denim weave, rather than trying to compare apples with oranges.
The natural indigo dye is a welcome contrast to the recent greens and inks which have tinted Oni’s headline denim. You can’t go wrong with a soothing, organic blue. This shade of indigo is appealing and approachable, making the Kiraku rather versatile denim that will easily match any T-shirt or sneakers on a hot summer day.
To answer the second question then, I’d say Kiraku is best conceptualized as a new standard in lightweight denim weave, its current manifestation being versatile & approachable. Therefore, the Kiraku definitely has a place among Oni’s enthusiast-grade fabrics.
Are there any downsides to this denim, you might ask? Well, to balance out this review, I should mention that a combination of low tension, loose weave and lightweight could potentially impact on the durability of the Kiraku denim compared with heavier, denser denim. With regards to durability, I cannot draw any conclusions yet – only time will tell.
On a different note, this is my first experience with Oni’s 982 cut, and I must say I’m enjoying Oni Kiraku 982immensely thus far.
I’ve noticed it is fairly similar to Tanuki’s HT cut, and again I will comment that the two brands share many similarities in their jeans. (If examined closely, you will notice the Kiraku denim has certain similarities with Tanuki’s Kaze denimtoo!)
The 982 high tapered cut works well with my body shape, and proves to be a much improved “export” cut compared with Oni fits from previous years, as far as non-Asian markets are concerned. I should say this cut will probably not work well for slim people, as the thighs and seat will be too baggy if you don’t have some meat on your bones. For everyone else, the 982 will integrate nicely into modern Americana, casual-wear and street-wear wardrobes.
All in all, the Kiraku certainly sets a new standard for light denims. Apart from presenting the enthusiast with a neat balance of texture and comfort, the Kiraku denim is an awesome achievement from the perspective of denim engineering. The texture: weight proposition is ridiculously good, and the indigo hues from the natural dye is pretty spectacular in sunlight too! I very much look forward to seeing this particular weave being made with different indigo hues and sulfur dyes in the future.
At an RRP of JPY23,000, the ONI-982KIRAKU can be considered to have great value, factoring in the ridiculous R & D effort over years that have been invested in its creation, and the use of natural indigo dye of course. This newest release from Oni Denim is an easy recommendation for both beginners & collectors, and if you’re specifically looking for a pair of summer jeans, the Kiraku will need to be one of the top picks.
Check them out first, and at the best pricing, with Denimio. Early reviews are something I’ve been hoping to do on this blog for a while, and rare is the opportunity to organize this with a Japanese maker, so many thanks to the cool guys & girls at Denimio for getting me lined up.
We guess all the informative things above are clear and make you know more about ONI-982KIRAKU. We also have share insight story about ONI Kiraku denim on our previous blog post, so click here to read more.
A full review of ONI 982 KIRAKU has done by the denim expert ‘Indigoshrimp’. It’s time to share with you why ONI Kiraku does worth money, how special the fabric is, what technique and details did the brand use, and what Indigoshrimp thinks about ONI 982KIRAKU. Get ready to explore and let’s rock!
*Click the photos for the best quality!
Welcome back to Indigoshrimp, and I got something special for you today!
I’ve been lucky enough to obtain an early sample of this pair of jeans via the good folks at Denimio. The timing was perfect too since I was able to field test the Kiraku during the Australian heatwave that’s recently swept the continent. I’m hoping this early review might help with your purchase decision when the Kiraku drops at Denimio.
Weighing in at 12 oz, it would be natural to assume that this denim is relatively flat and uninteresting compared with heavy weight fabrics, but the Kiraku might surprise you! For the folks who are interested in the history of the Oni Denim brand, check out my earlier review of the Shin Secret Denim. Otherwise, let ’s have a look at the Kiraku denim.
FIT
The sample pair being reviewed here will be released as the ONI-982KIRAKU. Another cut, the ONI-602KIRAKU, will be available too, which is similar to the previous 622 cut. Oni fans would know that the 982 is a high tapered cut and a relatively new addition to Oni’s lineup.
The photos of the fit were taken on days 1 & 2 after quick, cold water soak to shrink up the denim a little.
In very broad terms, the 982 is a modern, lifter’s style cut with a relatively high waist. I think this is fairly evident in how this pair has fit my frame.
In the top block, there’s plenty of space for the pelvis and in the seat. The thighs are generous and can accommodate athletic legs. From just above the knee, the jeans taper rather strongly, finishing with a narrow opening near the ankles.
The fit is very similar to Oni’s well known 622 cut, the major difference being the higher rise on the 982. The rise is high enough that you won’t need to worry about any undergarments showing, regardless of how low you squat!
On my sample pair, the inseam is long enough for a double cuff after the initial soak. For reference, my measurements are 185 cm and 93 kg, wearing size 36 in the 982 cut.
*Click on the photos for the best quality!
FABRIC
The Kiraku is a 12 oz unsanforised, RHT denim, woven on a truly vintage shuttle loom using natural indigo rope dyed warp and beige dyed weft.
Oni’s aim here appears to be two-fold… One, to create an enthusiast level denim which is light enough for harsh summer days. Two, to find the lowest weight limit with which Oni could produce a Secret denim texture.
It is interesting to consider, too, that the kanji for Kiraku, 楽, translates as “comfort” or “ease”. This had been confusing for me initially, as I was more familiar with the Mandarin translation of “happy” or “joy”.
The weave tension is extremely low for this denim. The overall structure is fairly loose. The relaxation of the weave, combined with a 6 x 6 year structure (traditionally used on heavier denim), has resulted in a fabric which is variegated and irregular despite its relatively lightweight.
The Kiraku would have been challenging denim to weave – kudos to the mill!
The porous weave is evident on both wearing and observation. Similar to Oni’s previous extra-low tension 14 oz fabric, you can observe some light passing through the denim when you hold these jeans up towards the sun. The same effect with air can be felt when the jeans are worn – this denim breathes very well, in comparison to the usual 14 oz + denim that is common in this hobby.
The warp face, apart from being irregularly irregular due to slubbing, is also moderately neppy. The streaks of the slubs are rather lengthy compared with other slub denim, giving the Kiraku a vertical flavor. This verticality, combined with the relative hairlessness of the warp face, further imparts a crispy, almost dry look to the Kiraku.
All things considered, the Kiraku is certainly much more intense than the usual 12 oz denim.
*Click on the photos for the best quality!
The textures on the warp and weft faces are rather different. The warp is rougher – bumpy, slightly dry, full of notches & ridges. The weft is smoother, more luxurious even, and gives comfort to the skin when worn. Running my fingers on the warp face, I’m reminded of my previous experiences with the fluffy & somewhat dry cotton from the Americas. On the weft side, I’m certain there has been liberal use of long staple cotton.
The color of the denim is rather special too. I do not know the full details about the dye stuff being used (as in, the plant origin of the natural indigo), though my understanding is that this is rope-dyed natural indigo denim. Certainly, I can confirm the rope dye method by examining loose yarn.
The natural indigo dye would explain the curious variation in shades of blue this denim displays under different lighting conditions. The rope dyed nature of the warp yarns should mean the denim fades faster and with more contrast than a traditional natural hank dye fabric. I would describe the blue of this denim to be clean, vivid, moderately dark, and organic.
The weft is gently colored too – a soft tinge of beige, perhaps cheese dyed, the color penetrating through the yarn.
Details
*Click on the photos for the best quality!
The detailing of these jeans is not changed from Oni’s previous releases in the last one to two years. In other words, all the bells & whistles have been installed, the arcs remain the same shape.
Oni’s patch design and the high-grade deerskin utilized for the patch are some of the nicest in this hobby. This particular leather ages extremely gracefully, though it can burn & shrivel in the dryer – for best results, always air dry your Oni Denim jeans.
The woven tag makes its trademark appearance on the inside of the waistband. Having previous experience, I know this tag will age in its own way to match the evolution of the denim & indigo. Fully customized buttons and external rivets feature. These doughnut buttons on the five-button fly, in particular, have great texture. Certainly, an upgrade compared with the laurel wreath buttons on my very old pairs of Oni Denim jeans. The punch-through rivets are customized Universal burr rivets. The copper on these rivets will oxidize over time.
Of course, hidden Universal rivets are included too, just under the bar-tacking securing the back pockets.
Overall, the sewing is neat and streamlined.
Lemon and orange threads dominate, and the colors blend together smoothly. The construct is not strict-reproduction based however, so don’t expect big, fat cotton threaded chain-stitching. Regardless, the sewing is dense and fairly regular. Important structural elements such as buttonholes, waistband, and fly seams are expertly finished.
The five belt loops are raised in the center. The attachments are neatly tacked. The pocket cloth returns to the plain but sturdy twill fabric used prior to last year’s Aizumi denim release. Not quite as monstrous as some Kurashiki sail cloth I’ve seen, but definitely more comfortable and less obtrusive against the thighs. Finally, the selvedge ID pays homage to the Secret Denim, with a slightly different configuration yet featuring the same pink threads.
Thoughts
In reviewing this new Kiraku denim, I thought there were two considerations worth exploring which are in line with Oni Denim’s development goals for this new fabric. The first question for me would be, is the Kiraku a good answer to the dilemma of wearing Japanese denim in hot weather? The other consideration would be, how does the Kirakucompare with Oni’s recent headline denim, which includes heavy-hitters such as Shin Secret, Aizumi, Kuroai, etc.?
Let’s talk about denim weight and weather.
Within the denim hobby, it is common to see a focus on heavier fabrics, especially for folks who are just starting out. Many enthusiasts, if they delve deeper into the Americana / retro menswear branches of the hobby, find themselves gravitating back towards mid-weight denim between 14 to 16 oz. Regardless, outside of strict reproduction fabrics designed to imitate pre-1960’s denim, it is very rare to come across denim that is lighter than 13 oz which would be considered interesting or worthwhile.
Further to this context is the fact that everybody has different tolerances when it comes to clothing thickness and ambient temperature. Denimheads can exist on a spectrum – at one extremity you have guys who would wear 21oz Iron Heart denim during a South East Asian summer, and on the other, there are people who refuse to wear anything but shorts once the temperature climbs into the 30’s.
As I mentioned earlier, I tested the Kiraku during the recent Australian heatwave, the hottest day in my area is 46 degrees Celsius, and I could wear the Kiraku without issue. Against the skin, not only was the denim breathable, but also the weft face was comfortable & relatively smooth. At the same time, as a texture geek, the Kiraku adequately held my attention, and I was not bored with the denim at all – in fact, I was suitably impressed by this denim, and upon touching it I’m still surprised that this intensity of grain & texture could be achieved at such a low weight. The contrast between hand-feel of the warp & weft faces is worth examining too.
This deliberate engineering of the denim indicates to me that, in many ways, the Kiraku was designed with the more advanced enthusiast in mind – someone who expects a good balance between comfort and texture, someone for whom the fad of ultra-heavy denim has worn off over the years. To answer the first question then, I’d say that the Kiraku is a very well rounded solution to the perennial “which denim to wear during summer” dilemma.
On the other hand, Kiraku could also be a good idea for beginners. Perhaps you might be anxious about the discomfort of heavy jeans, or maybe you simply do not wish to sacrifice comfort for the novelty of wearing cotton armor. Kiraku, then, is a perfect introduction to the weaves and indigo hues that are available at the top end of this denim hobby. It is a shorter leap to make, after all, transitioning from 10 oz mall-brand jeans to this 12 oz denim, compared with a deep dive to the 20 oz Secret denim.
Lighter weight aside, is Kiraku comparable to Oni’s heavier denim?
Oni wanted to see how low they could go with denim weight whilst still maintaining a Secret denim texture. To be completely realistic, of course, a 12 oz denim cannot be as detailed as a 20 oz denim – there’re just so much less thickness and cotton to work with – though I must say that I’ve never seen another lightweight fabric which even begins to approach the complex hand-feel of Kiraku. So, whilst Kiraku is slightly flatter and less complex compared with the original Secret denim, it’s perhaps best to think of the Kiraku as the 12 oz manifestation of the Secret denim weave, rather than trying to compare apples with oranges.
The natural indigo dye is a welcome contrast to the recent greens and inks which have tinted Oni’s headline denim. You can’t go wrong with a soothing, organic blue. This shade of indigo is appealing and approachable, making the Kiraku rather versatile denim that will easily match any T-shirt or sneakers on a hot summer day.
To answer the second question then, I’d say Kiraku is best conceptualized as a new standard in lightweight denim weave, its current manifestation being versatile & approachable. Therefore, the Kiraku definitely has a place among Oni’s enthusiast-grade fabrics.
Are there any downsides to this denim, you might ask? Well, to balance out this review, I should mention that a combination of low tension, loose weave and lightweight could potentially impact on the durability of the Kiraku denim compared with heavier, denser denim. With regards to durability, I cannot draw any conclusions yet – only time will tell.
On a different note, this is my first experience with Oni’s 982 cut, and I must say I’m enjoying Oni Kiraku 982immensely thus far.
I’ve noticed it is fairly similar to Tanuki’s HT cut, and again I will comment that the two brands share many similarities in their jeans. (If examined closely, you will notice the Kiraku denim has certain similarities with Tanuki’s Kaze denimtoo!)
The 982 high tapered cut works well with my body shape, and proves to be a much improved “export” cut compared with Oni fits from previous years, as far as non-Asian markets are concerned. I should say this cut will probably not work well for slim people, as the thighs and seat will be too baggy if you don’t have some meat on your bones. For everyone else, the 982 will integrate nicely into modern Americana, casual-wear and street-wear wardrobes.
All in all, the Kiraku certainly sets a new standard for light denims. Apart from presenting the enthusiast with a neat balance of texture and comfort, the Kiraku denim is an awesome achievement from the perspective of denim engineering. The texture: weight proposition is ridiculously good, and the indigo hues from the natural dye is pretty spectacular in sunlight too! I very much look forward to seeing this particular weave being made with different indigo hues and sulfur dyes in the future.
At an RRP of JPY23,000, the ONI-982KIRAKU can be considered to have great value, factoring in the ridiculous R & D effort over years that have been invested in its creation, and the use of natural indigo dye of course. This newest release from Oni Denim is an easy recommendation for both beginners & collectors, and if you’re specifically looking for a pair of summer jeans, the Kiraku will need to be one of the top picks.
Check them out first, and at the best pricing, with Denimio. Early reviews are something I’ve been hoping to do on this blog for a while, and rare is the opportunity to organize this with a Japanese maker, so many thanks to the cool guys & girls at Denimio for getting me lined up.
We guess all the informative things above are clear and make you know more about ONI-982KIRAKU. We also have share insight story about ONI Kiraku denim on our previous blog post, so click here to read more.
A full review of ONI 982 KIRAKU has done by the denim expert ‘Indigoshrimp’. It’s time to share with you why ONI Kiraku does worth money, how special the fabric is, what technique and details did the brand use, and what Indigoshrimp thinks about ONI 982KIRAKU. Get ready to explore and let’s rock!
*Click the photos for the best quality!
Welcome back to Indigoshrimp, and I got something special for you today!
I’ve been lucky enough to obtain an early sample of this pair of jeans via the good folks at Denimio. The timing was perfect too since I was able to field test the Kiraku during the Australian heatwave that’s recently swept the continent. I’m hoping this early review might help with your purchase decision when the Kiraku drops at Denimio.
Weighing in at 12 oz, it would be natural to assume that this denim is relatively flat and uninteresting compared with heavy weight fabrics, but the Kiraku might surprise you! For the folks who are interested in the history of the Oni Denim brand, check out my earlier review of the Shin Secret Denim. Otherwise, let ’s have a look at the Kiraku denim.
FIT
The sample pair being reviewed here will be released as the ONI-982KIRAKU. Another cut, the ONI-602KIRAKU, will be available too, which is similar to the previous 622 cut. Oni fans would know that the 982 is a high tapered cut and a relatively new addition to Oni’s lineup.
The photos of the fit were taken on days 1 & 2 after quick, cold water soak to shrink up the denim a little.
In very broad terms, the 982 is a modern, lifter’s style cut with a relatively high waist. I think this is fairly evident in how this pair has fit my frame.
In the top block, there’s plenty of space for the pelvis and in the seat. The thighs are generous and can accommodate athletic legs. From just above the knee, the jeans taper rather strongly, finishing with a narrow opening near the ankles.
The fit is very similar to Oni’s well known 622 cut, the major difference being the higher rise on the 982. The rise is high enough that you won’t need to worry about any undergarments showing, regardless of how low you squat!
On my sample pair, the inseam is long enough for a double cuff after the initial soak. For reference, my measurements are 185 cm and 93 kg, wearing size 36 in the 982 cut.
*Click on the photos for the best quality!
FABRIC
The Kiraku is a 12 oz unsanforised, RHT denim, woven on a truly vintage shuttle loom using natural indigo rope dyed warp and beige dyed weft.
Oni’s aim here appears to be two-fold… One, to create an enthusiast level denim which is light enough for harsh summer days. Two, to find the lowest weight limit with which Oni could produce a Secret denim texture.
It is interesting to consider, too, that the kanji for Kiraku, 楽, translates as “comfort” or “ease”. This had been confusing for me initially, as I was more familiar with the Mandarin translation of “happy” or “joy”.
The weave tension is extremely low for this denim. The overall structure is fairly loose. The relaxation of the weave, combined with a 6 x 6 year structure (traditionally used on heavier denim), has resulted in a fabric which is variegated and irregular despite its relatively lightweight.
The Kiraku would have been challenging denim to weave – kudos to the mill!
The porous weave is evident on both wearing and observation. Similar to Oni’s previous extra-low tension 14 oz fabric, you can observe some light passing through the denim when you hold these jeans up towards the sun. The same effect with air can be felt when the jeans are worn – this denim breathes very well, in comparison to the usual 14 oz + denim that is common in this hobby.
The warp face, apart from being irregularly irregular due to slubbing, is also moderately neppy. The streaks of the slubs are rather lengthy compared with other slub denim, giving the Kiraku a vertical flavor. This verticality, combined with the relative hairlessness of the warp face, further imparts a crispy, almost dry look to the Kiraku.
All things considered, the Kiraku is certainly much more intense than the usual 12 oz denim.
*Click on the photos for the best quality!
The textures on the warp and weft faces are rather different. The warp is rougher – bumpy, slightly dry, full of notches & ridges. The weft is smoother, more luxurious even, and gives comfort to the skin when worn. Running my fingers on the warp face, I’m reminded of my previous experiences with the fluffy & somewhat dry cotton from the Americas. On the weft side, I’m certain there has been liberal use of long staple cotton.
The color of the denim is rather special too. I do not know the full details about the dye stuff being used (as in, the plant origin of the natural indigo), though my understanding is that this is rope-dyed natural indigo denim. Certainly, I can confirm the rope dye method by examining loose yarn.
The natural indigo dye would explain the curious variation in shades of blue this denim displays under different lighting conditions. The rope dyed nature of the warp yarns should mean the denim fades faster and with more contrast than a traditional natural hank dye fabric. I would describe the blue of this denim to be clean, vivid, moderately dark, and organic.
The weft is gently colored too – a soft tinge of beige, perhaps cheese dyed, the color penetrating through the yarn.
Details
*Click on the photos for the best quality!
The detailing of these jeans is not changed from Oni’s previous releases in the last one to two years. In other words, all the bells & whistles have been installed, the arcs remain the same shape.
Oni’s patch design and the high-grade deerskin utilized for the patch are some of the nicest in this hobby. This particular leather ages extremely gracefully, though it can burn & shrivel in the dryer – for best results, always air dry your Oni Denim jeans.
The woven tag makes its trademark appearance on the inside of the waistband. Having previous experience, I know this tag will age in its own way to match the evolution of the denim & indigo. Fully customized buttons and external rivets feature. These doughnut buttons on the five-button fly, in particular, have great texture. Certainly, an upgrade compared with the laurel wreath buttons on my very old pairs of Oni Denim jeans. The punch-through rivets are customized Universal burr rivets. The copper on these rivets will oxidize over time.
Of course, hidden Universal rivets are included too, just under the bar-tacking securing the back pockets.
Overall, the sewing is neat and streamlined.
Lemon and orange threads dominate, and the colors blend together smoothly. The construct is not strict-reproduction based however, so don’t expect big, fat cotton threaded chain-stitching. Regardless, the sewing is dense and fairly regular. Important structural elements such as buttonholes, waistband, and fly seams are expertly finished.
The five belt loops are raised in the center. The attachments are neatly tacked. The pocket cloth returns to the plain but sturdy twill fabric used prior to last year’s Aizumi denim release. Not quite as monstrous as some Kurashiki sail cloth I’ve seen, but definitely more comfortable and less obtrusive against the thighs. Finally, the selvedge ID pays homage to the Secret Denim, with a slightly different configuration yet featuring the same pink threads.
Thoughts
In reviewing this new Kiraku denim, I thought there were two considerations worth exploring which are in line with Oni Denim’s development goals for this new fabric. The first question for me would be, is the Kiraku a good answer to the dilemma of wearing Japanese denim in hot weather? The other consideration would be, how does the Kirakucompare with Oni’s recent headline denim, which includes heavy-hitters such as Shin Secret, Aizumi, Kuroai, etc.?
Let’s talk about denim weight and weather.
Within the denim hobby, it is common to see a focus on heavier fabrics, especially for folks who are just starting out. Many enthusiasts, if they delve deeper into the Americana / retro menswear branches of the hobby, find themselves gravitating back towards mid-weight denim between 14 to 16 oz. Regardless, outside of strict reproduction fabrics designed to imitate pre-1960’s denim, it is very rare to come across denim that is lighter than 13 oz which would be considered interesting or worthwhile.
Further to this context is the fact that everybody has different tolerances when it comes to clothing thickness and ambient temperature. Denimheads can exist on a spectrum – at one extremity you have guys who would wear 21oz Iron Heart denim during a South East Asian summer, and on the other, there are people who refuse to wear anything but shorts once the temperature climbs into the 30’s.
As I mentioned earlier, I tested the Kiraku during the recent Australian heatwave, the hottest day in my area is 46 degrees Celsius, and I could wear the Kiraku without issue. Against the skin, not only was the denim breathable, but also the weft face was comfortable & relatively smooth. At the same time, as a texture geek, the Kiraku adequately held my attention, and I was not bored with the denim at all – in fact, I was suitably impressed by this denim, and upon touching it I’m still surprised that this intensity of grain & texture could be achieved at such a low weight. The contrast between hand-feel of the warp & weft faces is worth examining too.
This deliberate engineering of the denim indicates to me that, in many ways, the Kiraku was designed with the more advanced enthusiast in mind – someone who expects a good balance between comfort and texture, someone for whom the fad of ultra-heavy denim has worn off over the years. To answer the first question then, I’d say that the Kiraku is a very well rounded solution to the perennial “which denim to wear during summer” dilemma.
On the other hand, Kiraku could also be a good idea for beginners. Perhaps you might be anxious about the discomfort of heavy jeans, or maybe you simply do not wish to sacrifice comfort for the novelty of wearing cotton armor. Kiraku, then, is a perfect introduction to the weaves and indigo hues that are available at the top end of this denim hobby. It is a shorter leap to make, after all, transitioning from 10 oz mall-brand jeans to this 12 oz denim, compared with a deep dive to the 20 oz Secret denim.
Lighter weight aside, is Kiraku comparable to Oni’s heavier denim?
Oni wanted to see how low they could go with denim weight whilst still maintaining a Secret denim texture. To be completely realistic, of course, a 12 oz denim cannot be as detailed as a 20 oz denim – there’re just so much less thickness and cotton to work with – though I must say that I’ve never seen another lightweight fabric which even begins to approach the complex hand-feel of Kiraku. So, whilst Kiraku is slightly flatter and less complex compared with the original Secret denim, it’s perhaps best to think of the Kiraku as the 12 oz manifestation of the Secret denim weave, rather than trying to compare apples with oranges.
The natural indigo dye is a welcome contrast to the recent greens and inks which have tinted Oni’s headline denim. You can’t go wrong with a soothing, organic blue. This shade of indigo is appealing and approachable, making the Kiraku rather versatile denim that will easily match any T-shirt or sneakers on a hot summer day.
To answer the second question then, I’d say Kiraku is best conceptualized as a new standard in lightweight denim weave, its current manifestation being versatile & approachable. Therefore, the Kiraku definitely has a place among Oni’s enthusiast-grade fabrics.
Are there any downsides to this denim, you might ask? Well, to balance out this review, I should mention that a combination of low tension, loose weave and lightweight could potentially impact on the durability of the Kiraku denim compared with heavier, denser denim. With regards to durability, I cannot draw any conclusions yet – only time will tell.
On a different note, this is my first experience with Oni’s 982 cut, and I must say I’m enjoying Oni Kiraku 982immensely thus far.
I’ve noticed it is fairly similar to Tanuki’s HT cut, and again I will comment that the two brands share many similarities in their jeans. (If examined closely, you will notice the Kiraku denim has certain similarities with Tanuki’s Kaze denimtoo!)
The 982 high tapered cut works well with my body shape, and proves to be a much improved “export” cut compared with Oni fits from previous years, as far as non-Asian markets are concerned. I should say this cut will probably not work well for slim people, as the thighs and seat will be too baggy if you don’t have some meat on your bones. For everyone else, the 982 will integrate nicely into modern Americana, casual-wear and street-wear wardrobes.
All in all, the Kiraku certainly sets a new standard for light denims. Apart from presenting the enthusiast with a neat balance of texture and comfort, the Kiraku denim is an awesome achievement from the perspective of denim engineering. The texture: weight proposition is ridiculously good, and the indigo hues from the natural dye is pretty spectacular in sunlight too! I very much look forward to seeing this particular weave being made with different indigo hues and sulfur dyes in the future.
At an RRP of JPY23,000, the ONI-982KIRAKU can be considered to have great value, factoring in the ridiculous R & D effort over years that have been invested in its creation, and the use of natural indigo dye of course. This newest release from Oni Denim is an easy recommendation for both beginners & collectors, and if you’re specifically looking for a pair of summer jeans, the Kiraku will need to be one of the top picks.
Check them out first, and at the best pricing, with Denimio. Early reviews are something I’ve been hoping to do on this blog for a while, and rare is the opportunity to organize this with a Japanese maker, so many thanks to the cool guys & girls at Denimio for getting me lined up.
We guess all the informative things above are clear and make you know more about ONI-982KIRAKU. We also have share insight story about ONI Kiraku denim on our previous blog post, so click here to read more.
A full review of ONI 982 KIRAKU has done by the denim expert ‘Indigoshrimp’. It’s time to share with you why ONI Kiraku does worth money, how special the fabric is, what technique and details did the brand use, and what Indigoshrimp thinks about ONI 982KIRAKU. Get ready to explore and let’s rock!
*Click the photos for the best quality!
Welcome back to Indigoshrimp, and I got something special for you today!
I’ve been lucky enough to obtain an early sample of this pair of jeans via the good folks at Denimio. The timing was perfect too since I was able to field test the Kiraku during the Australian heatwave that’s recently swept the continent. I’m hoping this early review might help with your purchase decision when the Kiraku drops at Denimio.
Weighing in at 12 oz, it would be natural to assume that this denim is relatively flat and uninteresting compared with heavy weight fabrics, but the Kiraku might surprise you! For the folks who are interested in the history of the Oni Denim brand, check out my earlier review of the Shin Secret Denim. Otherwise, let ’s have a look at the Kiraku denim.
FIT
The sample pair being reviewed here will be released as the ONI-982KIRAKU. Another cut, the ONI-602KIRAKU, will be available too, which is similar to the previous 622 cut. Oni fans would know that the 982 is a high tapered cut and a relatively new addition to Oni’s lineup.
The photos of the fit were taken on days 1 & 2 after quick, cold water soak to shrink up the denim a little.
In very broad terms, the 982 is a modern, lifter’s style cut with a relatively high waist. I think this is fairly evident in how this pair has fit my frame.
In the top block, there’s plenty of space for the pelvis and in the seat. The thighs are generous and can accommodate athletic legs. From just above the knee, the jeans taper rather strongly, finishing with a narrow opening near the ankles.
The fit is very similar to Oni’s well known 622 cut, the major difference being the higher rise on the 982. The rise is high enough that you won’t need to worry about any undergarments showing, regardless of how low you squat!
On my sample pair, the inseam is long enough for a double cuff after the initial soak. For reference, my measurements are 185 cm and 93 kg, wearing size 36 in the 982 cut.
*Click on the photos for the best quality!
FABRIC
The Kiraku is a 12 oz unsanforised, RHT denim, woven on a truly vintage shuttle loom using natural indigo rope dyed warp and beige dyed weft.
Oni’s aim here appears to be two-fold… One, to create an enthusiast level denim which is light enough for harsh summer days. Two, to find the lowest weight limit with which Oni could produce a Secret denim texture.
It is interesting to consider, too, that the kanji for Kiraku, 楽, translates as “comfort” or “ease”. This had been confusing for me initially, as I was more familiar with the Mandarin translation of “happy” or “joy”.
The weave tension is extremely low for this denim. The overall structure is fairly loose. The relaxation of the weave, combined with a 6 x 6 year structure (traditionally used on heavier denim), has resulted in a fabric which is variegated and irregular despite its relatively lightweight.
The Kiraku would have been challenging denim to weave – kudos to the mill!
The porous weave is evident on both wearing and observation. Similar to Oni’s previous extra-low tension 14 oz fabric, you can observe some light passing through the denim when you hold these jeans up towards the sun. The same effect with air can be felt when the jeans are worn – this denim breathes very well, in comparison to the usual 14 oz + denim that is common in this hobby.
The warp face, apart from being irregularly irregular due to slubbing, is also moderately neppy. The streaks of the slubs are rather lengthy compared with other slub denim, giving the Kiraku a vertical flavor. This verticality, combined with the relative hairlessness of the warp face, further imparts a crispy, almost dry look to the Kiraku.
All things considered, the Kiraku is certainly much more intense than the usual 12 oz denim.
*Click on the photos for the best quality!
The textures on the warp and weft faces are rather different. The warp is rougher – bumpy, slightly dry, full of notches & ridges. The weft is smoother, more luxurious even, and gives comfort to the skin when worn. Running my fingers on the warp face, I’m reminded of my previous experiences with the fluffy & somewhat dry cotton from the Americas. On the weft side, I’m certain there has been liberal use of long staple cotton.
The color of the denim is rather special too. I do not know the full details about the dye stuff being used (as in, the plant origin of the natural indigo), though my understanding is that this is rope-dyed natural indigo denim. Certainly, I can confirm the rope dye method by examining loose yarn.
The natural indigo dye would explain the curious variation in shades of blue this denim displays under different lighting conditions. The rope dyed nature of the warp yarns should mean the denim fades faster and with more contrast than a traditional natural hank dye fabric. I would describe the blue of this denim to be clean, vivid, moderately dark, and organic.
The weft is gently colored too – a soft tinge of beige, perhaps cheese dyed, the color penetrating through the yarn.
Details
*Click on the photos for the best quality!
The detailing of these jeans is not changed from Oni’s previous releases in the last one to two years. In other words, all the bells & whistles have been installed, the arcs remain the same shape.
Oni’s patch design and the high-grade deerskin utilized for the patch are some of the nicest in this hobby. This particular leather ages extremely gracefully, though it can burn & shrivel in the dryer – for best results, always air dry your Oni Denim jeans.
The woven tag makes its trademark appearance on the inside of the waistband. Having previous experience, I know this tag will age in its own way to match the evolution of the denim & indigo. Fully customized buttons and external rivets feature. These doughnut buttons on the five-button fly, in particular, have great texture. Certainly, an upgrade compared with the laurel wreath buttons on my very old pairs of Oni Denim jeans. The punch-through rivets are customized Universal burr rivets. The copper on these rivets will oxidize over time.
Of course, hidden Universal rivets are included too, just under the bar-tacking securing the back pockets.
Overall, the sewing is neat and streamlined.
Lemon and orange threads dominate, and the colors blend together smoothly. The construct is not strict-reproduction based however, so don’t expect big, fat cotton threaded chain-stitching. Regardless, the sewing is dense and fairly regular. Important structural elements such as buttonholes, waistband, and fly seams are expertly finished.
The five belt loops are raised in the center. The attachments are neatly tacked. The pocket cloth returns to the plain but sturdy twill fabric used prior to last year’s Aizumi denim release. Not quite as monstrous as some Kurashiki sail cloth I’ve seen, but definitely more comfortable and less obtrusive against the thighs. Finally, the selvedge ID pays homage to the Secret Denim, with a slightly different configuration yet featuring the same pink threads.
Thoughts
In reviewing this new Kiraku denim, I thought there were two considerations worth exploring which are in line with Oni Denim’s development goals for this new fabric. The first question for me would be, is the Kiraku a good answer to the dilemma of wearing Japanese denim in hot weather? The other consideration would be, how does the Kirakucompare with Oni’s recent headline denim, which includes heavy-hitters such as Shin Secret, Aizumi, Kuroai, etc.?
Let’s talk about denim weight and weather.
Within the denim hobby, it is common to see a focus on heavier fabrics, especially for folks who are just starting out. Many enthusiasts, if they delve deeper into the Americana / retro menswear branches of the hobby, find themselves gravitating back towards mid-weight denim between 14 to 16 oz. Regardless, outside of strict reproduction fabrics designed to imitate pre-1960’s denim, it is very rare to come across denim that is lighter than 13 oz which would be considered interesting or worthwhile.
Further to this context is the fact that everybody has different tolerances when it comes to clothing thickness and ambient temperature. Denimheads can exist on a spectrum – at one extremity you have guys who would wear 21oz Iron Heart denim during a South East Asian summer, and on the other, there are people who refuse to wear anything but shorts once the temperature climbs into the 30’s.
As I mentioned earlier, I tested the Kiraku during the recent Australian heatwave, the hottest day in my area is 46 degrees Celsius, and I could wear the Kiraku without issue. Against the skin, not only was the denim breathable, but also the weft face was comfortable & relatively smooth. At the same time, as a texture geek, the Kiraku adequately held my attention, and I was not bored with the denim at all – in fact, I was suitably impressed by this denim, and upon touching it I’m still surprised that this intensity of grain & texture could be achieved at such a low weight. The contrast between hand-feel of the warp & weft faces is worth examining too.
This deliberate engineering of the denim indicates to me that, in many ways, the Kiraku was designed with the more advanced enthusiast in mind – someone who expects a good balance between comfort and texture, someone for whom the fad of ultra-heavy denim has worn off over the years. To answer the first question then, I’d say that the Kiraku is a very well rounded solution to the perennial “which denim to wear during summer” dilemma.
On the other hand, Kiraku could also be a good idea for beginners. Perhaps you might be anxious about the discomfort of heavy jeans, or maybe you simply do not wish to sacrifice comfort for the novelty of wearing cotton armor. Kiraku, then, is a perfect introduction to the weaves and indigo hues that are available at the top end of this denim hobby. It is a shorter leap to make, after all, transitioning from 10 oz mall-brand jeans to this 12 oz denim, compared with a deep dive to the 20 oz Secret denim.
Lighter weight aside, is Kiraku comparable to Oni’s heavier denim?
Oni wanted to see how low they could go with denim weight whilst still maintaining a Secret denim texture. To be completely realistic, of course, a 12 oz denim cannot be as detailed as a 20 oz denim – there’re just so much less thickness and cotton to work with – though I must say that I’ve never seen another lightweight fabric which even begins to approach the complex hand-feel of Kiraku. So, whilst Kiraku is slightly flatter and less complex compared with the original Secret denim, it’s perhaps best to think of the Kiraku as the 12 oz manifestation of the Secret denim weave, rather than trying to compare apples with oranges.
The natural indigo dye is a welcome contrast to the recent greens and inks which have tinted Oni’s headline denim. You can’t go wrong with a soothing, organic blue. This shade of indigo is appealing and approachable, making the Kiraku rather versatile denim that will easily match any T-shirt or sneakers on a hot summer day.
To answer the second question then, I’d say Kiraku is best conceptualized as a new standard in lightweight denim weave, its current manifestation being versatile & approachable. Therefore, the Kiraku definitely has a place among Oni’s enthusiast-grade fabrics.
Are there any downsides to this denim, you might ask? Well, to balance out this review, I should mention that a combination of low tension, loose weave and lightweight could potentially impact on the durability of the Kiraku denim compared with heavier, denser denim. With regards to durability, I cannot draw any conclusions yet – only time will tell.
On a different note, this is my first experience with Oni’s 982 cut, and I must say I’m enjoying Oni Kiraku 982immensely thus far.
I’ve noticed it is fairly similar to Tanuki’s HT cut, and again I will comment that the two brands share many similarities in their jeans. (If examined closely, you will notice the Kiraku denim has certain similarities with Tanuki’s Kaze denimtoo!)
The 982 high tapered cut works well with my body shape, and proves to be a much improved “export” cut compared with Oni fits from previous years, as far as non-Asian markets are concerned. I should say this cut will probably not work well for slim people, as the thighs and seat will be too baggy if you don’t have some meat on your bones. For everyone else, the 982 will integrate nicely into modern Americana, casual-wear and street-wear wardrobes.
All in all, the Kiraku certainly sets a new standard for light denims. Apart from presenting the enthusiast with a neat balance of texture and comfort, the Kiraku denim is an awesome achievement from the perspective of denim engineering. The texture: weight proposition is ridiculously good, and the indigo hues from the natural dye is pretty spectacular in sunlight too! I very much look forward to seeing this particular weave being made with different indigo hues and sulfur dyes in the future.
At an RRP of JPY23,000, the ONI-982KIRAKU can be considered to have great value, factoring in the ridiculous R & D effort over years that have been invested in its creation, and the use of natural indigo dye of course. This newest release from Oni Denim is an easy recommendation for both beginners & collectors, and if you’re specifically looking for a pair of summer jeans, the Kiraku will need to be one of the top picks.
Check them out first, and at the best pricing, with Denimio. Early reviews are something I’ve been hoping to do on this blog for a while, and rare is the opportunity to organize this with a Japanese maker, so many thanks to the cool guys & girls at Denimio for getting me lined up.
We guess all the informative things above are clear and make you know more about ONI-982KIRAKU. We also have share insight story about ONI Kiraku denim on our previous blog post, so click here to read more.
A full review of ONI 982 KIRAKU has done by the denim expert ‘Indigoshrimp’. It’s time to share with you why ONI Kiraku does worth money, how special the fabric is, what technique and details did the brand use, and what Indigoshrimp thinks about ONI 982KIRAKU. Get ready to explore and let’s rock!
*Click the photos for the best quality!
Welcome back to Indigoshrimp, and I got something special for you today!
I’ve been lucky enough to obtain an early sample of this pair of jeans via the good folks at Denimio. The timing was perfect too since I was able to field test the Kiraku during the Australian heatwave that’s recently swept the continent. I’m hoping this early review might help with your purchase decision when the Kiraku drops at Denimio.
Weighing in at 12 oz, it would be natural to assume that this denim is relatively flat and uninteresting compared with heavy weight fabrics, but the Kiraku might surprise you! For the folks who are interested in the history of the Oni Denim brand, check out my earlier review of the Shin Secret Denim. Otherwise, let ’s have a look at the Kiraku denim.
FIT
The sample pair being reviewed here will be released as the ONI-982KIRAKU. Another cut, the ONI-602KIRAKU, will be available too, which is similar to the previous 622 cut. Oni fans would know that the 982 is a high tapered cut and a relatively new addition to Oni’s lineup.
The photos of the fit were taken on days 1 & 2 after quick, cold water soak to shrink up the denim a little.
In very broad terms, the 982 is a modern, lifter’s style cut with a relatively high waist. I think this is fairly evident in how this pair has fit my frame.
In the top block, there’s plenty of space for the pelvis and in the seat. The thighs are generous and can accommodate athletic legs. From just above the knee, the jeans taper rather strongly, finishing with a narrow opening near the ankles.
The fit is very similar to Oni’s well known 622 cut, the major difference being the higher rise on the 982. The rise is high enough that you won’t need to worry about any undergarments showing, regardless of how low you squat!
On my sample pair, the inseam is long enough for a double cuff after the initial soak. For reference, my measurements are 185 cm and 93 kg, wearing size 36 in the 982 cut.
*Click on the photos for the best quality!
FABRIC
The Kiraku is a 12 oz unsanforised, RHT denim, woven on a truly vintage shuttle loom using natural indigo rope dyed warp and beige dyed weft.
Oni’s aim here appears to be two-fold… One, to create an enthusiast level denim which is light enough for harsh summer days. Two, to find the lowest weight limit with which Oni could produce a Secret denim texture.
It is interesting to consider, too, that the kanji for Kiraku, 楽, translates as “comfort” or “ease”. This had been confusing for me initially, as I was more familiar with the Mandarin translation of “happy” or “joy”.
The weave tension is extremely low for this denim. The overall structure is fairly loose. The relaxation of the weave, combined with a 6 x 6 year structure (traditionally used on heavier denim), has resulted in a fabric which is variegated and irregular despite its relatively lightweight.
The Kiraku would have been challenging denim to weave – kudos to the mill!
The porous weave is evident on both wearing and observation. Similar to Oni’s previous extra-low tension 14 oz fabric, you can observe some light passing through the denim when you hold these jeans up towards the sun. The same effect with air can be felt when the jeans are worn – this denim breathes very well, in comparison to the usual 14 oz + denim that is common in this hobby.
The warp face, apart from being irregularly irregular due to slubbing, is also moderately neppy. The streaks of the slubs are rather lengthy compared with other slub denim, giving the Kiraku a vertical flavor. This verticality, combined with the relative hairlessness of the warp face, further imparts a crispy, almost dry look to the Kiraku.
All things considered, the Kiraku is certainly much more intense than the usual 12 oz denim.
*Click on the photos for the best quality!
The textures on the warp and weft faces are rather different. The warp is rougher – bumpy, slightly dry, full of notches & ridges. The weft is smoother, more luxurious even, and gives comfort to the skin when worn. Running my fingers on the warp face, I’m reminded of my previous experiences with the fluffy & somewhat dry cotton from the Americas. On the weft side, I’m certain there has been liberal use of long staple cotton.
The color of the denim is rather special too. I do not know the full details about the dye stuff being used (as in, the plant origin of the natural indigo), though my understanding is that this is rope-dyed natural indigo denim. Certainly, I can confirm the rope dye method by examining loose yarn.
The natural indigo dye would explain the curious variation in shades of blue this denim displays under different lighting conditions. The rope dyed nature of the warp yarns should mean the denim fades faster and with more contrast than a traditional natural hank dye fabric. I would describe the blue of this denim to be clean, vivid, moderately dark, and organic.
The weft is gently colored too – a soft tinge of beige, perhaps cheese dyed, the color penetrating through the yarn.
Details
*Click on the photos for the best quality!
The detailing of these jeans is not changed from Oni’s previous releases in the last one to two years. In other words, all the bells & whistles have been installed, the arcs remain the same shape.
Oni’s patch design and the high-grade deerskin utilized for the patch are some of the nicest in this hobby. This particular leather ages extremely gracefully, though it can burn & shrivel in the dryer – for best results, always air dry your Oni Denim jeans.
The woven tag makes its trademark appearance on the inside of the waistband. Having previous experience, I know this tag will age in its own way to match the evolution of the denim & indigo. Fully customized buttons and external rivets feature. These doughnut buttons on the five-button fly, in particular, have great texture. Certainly, an upgrade compared with the laurel wreath buttons on my very old pairs of Oni Denim jeans. The punch-through rivets are customized Universal burr rivets. The copper on these rivets will oxidize over time.
Of course, hidden Universal rivets are included too, just under the bar-tacking securing the back pockets.
Overall, the sewing is neat and streamlined.
Lemon and orange threads dominate, and the colors blend together smoothly. The construct is not strict-reproduction based however, so don’t expect big, fat cotton threaded chain-stitching. Regardless, the sewing is dense and fairly regular. Important structural elements such as buttonholes, waistband, and fly seams are expertly finished.
The five belt loops are raised in the center. The attachments are neatly tacked. The pocket cloth returns to the plain but sturdy twill fabric used prior to last year’s Aizumi denim release. Not quite as monstrous as some Kurashiki sail cloth I’ve seen, but definitely more comfortable and less obtrusive against the thighs. Finally, the selvedge ID pays homage to the Secret Denim, with a slightly different configuration yet featuring the same pink threads.
Thoughts
In reviewing this new Kiraku denim, I thought there were two considerations worth exploring which are in line with Oni Denim’s development goals for this new fabric. The first question for me would be, is the Kiraku a good answer to the dilemma of wearing Japanese denim in hot weather? The other consideration would be, how does the Kirakucompare with Oni’s recent headline denim, which includes heavy-hitters such as Shin Secret, Aizumi, Kuroai, etc.?
Let’s talk about denim weight and weather.
Within the denim hobby, it is common to see a focus on heavier fabrics, especially for folks who are just starting out. Many enthusiasts, if they delve deeper into the Americana / retro menswear branches of the hobby, find themselves gravitating back towards mid-weight denim between 14 to 16 oz. Regardless, outside of strict reproduction fabrics designed to imitate pre-1960’s denim, it is very rare to come across denim that is lighter than 13 oz which would be considered interesting or worthwhile.
Further to this context is the fact that everybody has different tolerances when it comes to clothing thickness and ambient temperature. Denimheads can exist on a spectrum – at one extremity you have guys who would wear 21oz Iron Heart denim during a South East Asian summer, and on the other, there are people who refuse to wear anything but shorts once the temperature climbs into the 30’s.
As I mentioned earlier, I tested the Kiraku during the recent Australian heatwave, the hottest day in my area is 46 degrees Celsius, and I could wear the Kiraku without issue. Against the skin, not only was the denim breathable, but also the weft face was comfortable & relatively smooth. At the same time, as a texture geek, the Kiraku adequately held my attention, and I was not bored with the denim at all – in fact, I was suitably impressed by this denim, and upon touching it I’m still surprised that this intensity of grain & texture could be achieved at such a low weight. The contrast between hand-feel of the warp & weft faces is worth examining too.
This deliberate engineering of the denim indicates to me that, in many ways, the Kiraku was designed with the more advanced enthusiast in mind – someone who expects a good balance between comfort and texture, someone for whom the fad of ultra-heavy denim has worn off over the years. To answer the first question then, I’d say that the Kiraku is a very well rounded solution to the perennial “which denim to wear during summer” dilemma.
On the other hand, Kiraku could also be a good idea for beginners. Perhaps you might be anxious about the discomfort of heavy jeans, or maybe you simply do not wish to sacrifice comfort for the novelty of wearing cotton armor. Kiraku, then, is a perfect introduction to the weaves and indigo hues that are available at the top end of this denim hobby. It is a shorter leap to make, after all, transitioning from 10 oz mall-brand jeans to this 12 oz denim, compared with a deep dive to the 20 oz Secret denim.
Lighter weight aside, is Kiraku comparable to Oni’s heavier denim?
Oni wanted to see how low they could go with denim weight whilst still maintaining a Secret denim texture. To be completely realistic, of course, a 12 oz denim cannot be as detailed as a 20 oz denim – there’re just so much less thickness and cotton to work with – though I must say that I’ve never seen another lightweight fabric which even begins to approach the complex hand-feel of Kiraku. So, whilst Kiraku is slightly flatter and less complex compared with the original Secret denim, it’s perhaps best to think of the Kiraku as the 12 oz manifestation of the Secret denim weave, rather than trying to compare apples with oranges.
The natural indigo dye is a welcome contrast to the recent greens and inks which have tinted Oni’s headline denim. You can’t go wrong with a soothing, organic blue. This shade of indigo is appealing and approachable, making the Kiraku rather versatile denim that will easily match any T-shirt or sneakers on a hot summer day.
To answer the second question then, I’d say Kiraku is best conceptualized as a new standard in lightweight denim weave, its current manifestation being versatile & approachable. Therefore, the Kiraku definitely has a place among Oni’s enthusiast-grade fabrics.
Are there any downsides to this denim, you might ask? Well, to balance out this review, I should mention that a combination of low tension, loose weave and lightweight could potentially impact on the durability of the Kiraku denim compared with heavier, denser denim. With regards to durability, I cannot draw any conclusions yet – only time will tell.
On a different note, this is my first experience with Oni’s 982 cut, and I must say I’m enjoying Oni Kiraku 982immensely thus far.
I’ve noticed it is fairly similar to Tanuki’s HT cut, and again I will comment that the two brands share many similarities in their jeans. (If examined closely, you will notice the Kiraku denim has certain similarities with Tanuki’s Kaze denimtoo!)
The 982 high tapered cut works well with my body shape, and proves to be a much improved “export” cut compared with Oni fits from previous years, as far as non-Asian markets are concerned. I should say this cut will probably not work well for slim people, as the thighs and seat will be too baggy if you don’t have some meat on your bones. For everyone else, the 982 will integrate nicely into modern Americana, casual-wear and street-wear wardrobes.
All in all, the Kiraku certainly sets a new standard for light denims. Apart from presenting the enthusiast with a neat balance of texture and comfort, the Kiraku denim is an awesome achievement from the perspective of denim engineering. The texture: weight proposition is ridiculously good, and the indigo hues from the natural dye is pretty spectacular in sunlight too! I very much look forward to seeing this particular weave being made with different indigo hues and sulfur dyes in the future.
At an RRP of JPY23,000, the ONI-982KIRAKU can be considered to have great value, factoring in the ridiculous R & D effort over years that have been invested in its creation, and the use of natural indigo dye of course. This newest release from Oni Denim is an easy recommendation for both beginners & collectors, and if you’re specifically looking for a pair of summer jeans, the Kiraku will need to be one of the top picks.
Check them out first, and at the best pricing, with Denimio. Early reviews are something I’ve been hoping to do on this blog for a while, and rare is the opportunity to organize this with a Japanese maker, so many thanks to the cool guys & girls at Denimio for getting me lined up.
We guess all the informative things above are clear and make you know more about ONI-982KIRAKU. We also have share insight story about ONI Kiraku denim on our previous blog post, so click here to read more.
Подробный пользовательский обзор об ONI 982 KIRAKU от эксперта в мире денима, блогера ‘Indigoshrimp’. Пришло время узнать, почему серия ONI Kiraku стоит своих денег, почему этот деним является таким особенным, какое сырьё использовалось, какие особенности производства применял производитель и многое другое. Обо всём этом вы узнаете от Indigoshrimp в его рассказе об ONI 982KIRAKU. Наслаждайтесь обзором этих великолепных джинсов!
*Кликните фото, чтобы посмотреть в лучшем качестве!
Добро пожаловать снова к Indigoshrimp, и у нас есть что-то особенное для вас сегодня!
Это мой первый обзор джинсов в 2019 году – самые лёгкие джинсы, которые мне доводилось держать в руках с 2008 гда – Oni Denim является отличным разрешением делемы о том, что же надеть из джиснов в жаркие месяцы. Я мею в виду новый деним от Oni, который называется Kiraku (鬼楽).
Мне посчастливилось получить образец таких джиснов от хороших людей из магазина Denimio. Время было идеальным для полевых испытаний, поскольку жара уже охватила весь австралийский континент. Я надеюсь этот обзор поможет вам составить правильное мнение о дениме Kiraku когда он появится в Denimio.
При плотности12 oz,можно было бы предположить, что этот деним ровный, “плоский” и достаточно ординарный, однако он очень удивит вас! Для тех, кто интересуется историей бренда Oni Denim, ознакомьтесь с моим предыдущим обзором Shin Secret Denim . А теперь давайте рассмотрим что из себя представляет Kiraku denim.
Фасон
Рассматриваямая пара предположительно будет называться ONI-902KIRAKU (примечание: фактически эта модель имеет название ONI-982KIRAKU 12OZ ). Другой фасон ONI-602KIRAKU, доступен тоже, он является вариантом фасона 622. Фанаты Oni наверняка хорошо знают, что фасон 902 это высокая посадка, просторное бедро и зауженная штанина. Это относительно новый и наиболее перспективный фасон.
Фото были сделаны после 1-2 быстрых замачиваний джинсов, чтобы получить необходимую усадку. В широком смысле можно сказать, что 902 модель это достаточно “атлетичный” фасон с высокой посадкой на поясе. Этот стиль на мой взгляд отлично подошёл для меня. В верхнем блоке достаточно места и он вполне комфортен. Бедра очень удобны для спортивных ног и не стесняют движений. От колена джинсы заметно сужаются, что создаёт достаточно современный и стильный силуэт. Посадка очень похожа на модель 622, главным отличием является более высокая посадка. Задняя часть пояса достаточно высоко сидит, так что вам, не нужно беспокоиться о “демонстрации белья”, если вы вдруг присядете слишком низко! Моя пара после замачмивания позволяет сделать двойной подворот на штанине. Мой рост 185 см а вес составляет 93 кг, я ношу размер 36 у 982 фасона.
Фасон джинсов – это весьма субъективная и индивидуальная вещь, но я считаю 902 стиль Oni весьма удобным и универсальным.
902 модель подойдет для многих крупных европейцев гораздо больше, благодаря просторному верхнему блоку, в отличие от многих других японских моделей, которые имеют более узкий верхний блок.
*Кликните фото, чтобы посмотреть в лучшем качестве!
Деним
Деним Kiraku имеет плотность 12 oz , это несанфоризированный деним с правосторонним (RHT) плетением. Он сделан на настоящих винтажных ткацких станках , нити основы окрашены натуральным индиго канатным способом, уточные нити окрашены в бежевый цвет.
Цель ONI Denim кажется двоякой: с одной стороны это должен быть достаточно лёгкий и комфортный для лета деним, а с другой стороны, этот материал должен иметь очень выразительную slubby фактуру в чём-то похожую на Secret Denime.
Перевод с кандзи означает, что Kiraku, 楽, это “комфорт”, “лёгкость”. Этот перевод меня поначалу немного сбил с толку, так как я был знаком с китайским переводом, который означал “радость” или “счастье”.
Натяжение плетения чрезвычайно низкое для этой джинсовой ткани. Общая структура довольно лёгкая и свободная. Используются нити с номером 6 для уточной нити и нити основы, что как правило характерно для более тяжёлой джинсовой ткани. Это позовлило получить одновременно лёгкий деним с очень выразительной фактурой.
Kiraku это очень необычный, трудоёмкий и самобытный материал – спасибо произовдителям за это!
Неорднородность плетения денима заметно как визуально, так и во время ношения джинсов. Как и в некоторых вариантах денима они с плотностью 14OZ можно заметить, что джинсы имеют характерные просветы, если посмотреть их напротив солнца. Однако, пожалуй этот деним гораздо лучше дышит и лучше продувается по сравнению с более плотными видами слабби денима.
Джинсы имеют заметную неоднородность нити основы, характерые вертикальные “полосы” и nep элементы от проглядывающей уточной нити.
Учитывая все эти особенности, хотелось бы заметить, что этот вид денима намного более интересен, чем любой подобный деним в плотности 12OZ.
*Кликните фото, чтобы посмотреть в лучшем качестве!
Текстура нити основы очень неоднородная и нарочито грубая. Что нельзя сказать о нити основы, которая очень ровная и мягкая. Это придаёт необходимый тактильный комфорт джинсам. Для нити основы используется американский хлопок с коротким волокном, который хорошо подходит для слабби-денима, для уточной нити используется хлопок с длинным волокном, из которого хорошо получается ровный и мягкий деним.
Я не имею возможности получить детальную информацию об использованных красителях. Но здесь используется натуральный растительный краситель и механическое окрашивание нитей канатным способом. Это позволяет оставить сердцевину нити неокрашенной и вполследствии получать фейдинг.
Натуральный индиго даёт умеренный и естественный цвет индиго. Будет очень интересно наблюдать, как этот цвет будет изменяться в дальнейшем.
Уточная нить окрашена в мягкий бежевый оттенок. Обычно для этого используется метод cheese dyeing, позволяющий получить стойкий цвет.
Детали
*Кликните, чтобы посмотреть фото в высоком качестве!
За последние пару лет все основные детали Oni не претерпели сколь-нибудь значительных изменений. Иными словами арки, стиль патча и другие элементы стабильны для каждого нового выпуска.
Патч выполнен из выполнен из высококачественной оленьей кожи. Эта кожа меняет цвет и трансформируется очень изящно и красиво в зависимости от температуры и времени использования джинсов. С обратной стороны пришита этикетка с брендингом Oni. Cо временем все эти элементы будут интересно стареть и изменяться. Полностью кастомизированные болты и заклёпки. На мой взгляд новые болты Oni с брендингом выглядят более эффектно, чем старые болты с венком и звездочкой.
Пробитые “с мясом” заклёпки также несут на себе брендинг.
Медь со временем будет окисляться. Присутствуют скрытые заклёпки в верхних углах задних карманов.
В целом мошив достаточно аккуратный и изящный.
Доминируют лимонные и оранжевые нити, которые органично дополняют друг друга.
Однако это не строгая ортодоксальная репро-стилистика. Поэтому здесь не стоит ожидать толстых цепных стежков из хлопковых нитей.
Шитьё достаточно надёжное, практичное и прочное. Такие элементы, как петли для пуговиц, изнаночные швы и шов на поясе выполнены очень тщательно. Шлёвки имеют характерную выпуклость посередене. Пришиты аккуратными стежками. Мешковина карманов выполнена из простого, но прочного твилла бежевого цвета. Такая ткань использовалась в прошлом году до выпуска Oni Aizumi.
Не настолько монструозные, как некоторые варианты Kurashiki, которые я видел, но определённо более удобные и комфортные для бедер. И наконец, нить, вплетаемая в кромку, отдаёт определенную дань уважения Oni secret Denim, но имеет немного другой стиль.
Мнение
При рассмотрении этих джинсов я задавался двумя важными для меня вопросами. Первый: насколько возможно совместить действительно лёгкий вес денима и очень выразительную фактуру? Второй: насколько деним Kiraku можно поставить в один ряд с такими хитами, как Shin Secret, Aizumi, Kuroai и т.д.
Давайте поразмышляем о плотности денима и погоде.
Для тех, кто интересуется японским денимом, как хобии, наверняка много значит плотный деним. Однако многие энтузиасти, которые вдохновляются стилем “амеркана” и “ретро” тяготеют к деним средней плотнсти 14-15OZ. Между двумя этими распространёнными видами денима чрезвычайно редко встречается деним малой плотнсоти, менее 13OZ.
В дополнении к этому стоит сказать, что восприятние плотности денима во многом индивидуально. Кто-то безусловно будет готов носить джинсы с плотностью 21OZ в любую жару, а кто-то не сможет носить ничего кроме шортов, как только столбик термоментра поднимется до +30.
Как я упоминал ранее, я тестировал эти джинсы во время астралийской жары. В ряде случаев температура достигала + 46 градусов. В эту погоду я мог ность Oni Kiraku без проблем. Эти джинсы комфортны, отлично продуваются и приятны к телу.
В то же время я был поражён насколько производителю удалось получить очень выразительную слабби-фактуру при такой небольшой плотности денима.
С другой стороны деним Kiraku является весьма интересным выбором и для начинающих. Возможно вас беспокоит необходимость для вас тяжёлых джинсов или же вы принципиально являетесь сторонником максимального комфорта и лёгкости. В этом случае деним Kiraku позволит вам получить замечательный баланс между комфортной тканью и очень красивым цветом. Плюс ко всему здесь мы получаем замечательную слабби-фактуру. В конце концов переход от лёгих брюк с плотностью 10OZ к дениму 12OZ это куда более простой шаг, нежели выбор сразу плотный вид денима Oni 20OZ Secret
Можно ли сопоставить этот вид денима с более плотными видами денима Oni.
Oni стремился получить идеальный баланс между минимальной плотнсостью денима и максимальной выраженностью фактуры. Разумеется плотость 12OZ не может нам продемонстрировать такое же богатство фактуры, как у Secret 20OZ, но это реальный максимум, что можно получить от денима 12OZ. В любом случае, сравнивая Oni Kiraku и Oni Secret, я ни коем случае не пытаюсь противопоставить яблоки и апельсины.
Натуральный краситель индиго – это очень приятный цвет, который дополнит коллекцию Oni, где нередко вы можете встретить варианты, как с густым и тёмным синтетическим индиго так и с индиго, отдающим в зеленый оттенок. Кираку можно считать универсальным видом денима, который отлично сочетается с парой кроссовок и футболкой.
Чтобы ответить на второй вопрос, я бы сказал, что Kiraku лучше всего концептуализировать, как новый стандарт в облегченном дениме, его текущее проявление является универсальным и доступным. Поэтому Kiraku определенно занимает место среди тканей Oni для энтузиастов.
Вы можете спросить, есть ли недостатки этой джинсовой ткани? Ну, чтобы уравновесить этот обзор, я должен упомянуть, что сочетание низкого натяжения, рыхлого переплетения и легкого веса может потенциально повлиять на долговечность денима Kiraku по сравнению с более тяжелыми, плотными видами тканей. Что же касается долговечности, я пока не могу сделать никаких выводов – только время покажет.
С другой стороны, это мой первый опыт работы с Oni 902, и я должен сказать, что до сих пор мне это очень нравится.
Я заметил, что это довольно похоже на крой Tanuki HT, и еще раз я скажу, что эти два бренда имеют много общего в своих джинсах.(Если внимательно рассмотреть, вы заметите, что деним Kiraku имеет определенные сходства с денимом Tanuki Kaze.!)
Фасон 902 хорошо сочетается с моей формой тела и, по-видимому, значительно производиетль заметно улучшил «экспортный» фасон по сравнению с фасонами Oni предыдущих лет, что касается неазиатских рынков. Я должен сказать, что этот стиль, вероятно, не будет хорошо работать для худых людей, поскольку посадка может быть слишком мешковатой, если у вас маловато мяса на костях. Для всех остальных модель 902 прекрасно интегрируется в современный стиль Americana, повседневной и уличной одежды.
В целом, Kiraku, безусловно, устанавливает новый стандарт для легких джинсов. Помимо предоставления энтузиасту аккуратного баланса текстуры и комфорта, деним Kiraku – это потрясающее достижение с точки зрения джинсовой инженерии. Текстура: вес смехотворно мал, а оттенки индиго и фактура просто замечательно выглядят на солнце! Я с нетерпением жду, когда в будущем эта конкретная ткань будет сделана с различными видами красителей.
Цену 23, 000 JPY для модели ONI-902KIRAKU можно счесть вполне справедливой, учитывая усилия приложенные производителем при разработке этого вида денима. Таким образом. эти джинсы можно рекомендовать как для новичков так и для опытных энтузиастов. Если вы ищете пару летних джинсов Oni Kiraku может быть одним из самых интересных вариантов.
Взгляните на эти джинсы по лучшей цене в Denimio. Предварительный обзор – это то что мне удалось сделать благодаря помощи замечательных парней и девушек из Denimio. Спасибо им за это!
Мы надеемся, что этот информативный обзор об ONI-982KIRAKU помог вам узнать много нового и интересного. Мы также поделились историй об ONI Kiraku denim в нашей предыдущей публикации, поэтому нажмите здесь, чтобы читать далее.
รีวิวฉบับเต็มของ ONI 982 KIRAKU โดยเซียนยีนส์อินเตอร์อย่าง ‘Indigoshrimp’ ถึงเวลาที่เราจะแชร์ข้อมูลเชิงลึกกับคุณว่า ทำไม ONI Kiraku ถึงคุ้มค่ากับการเป็นเจ้าของ ผ้ารุ่นนี้มีเทคนิคและดีเทลเจ๋งยังไง แล้ว Indigoshrimp คิดยังไงกับกางเกงยีนส์รุ่นนี้ ONI 982 KIRAKU เตรียมตัวให้พร้อม แล้วไปลุยกัน!
ยินดีต้อนรับกลับเข้าสู่บล็อกของ Indigoshrimp ครั้งนี้เรามีอะไรพิเศษมาฝากแฟน ๆ ด้วย
ผมโชคดีที่ได้ตัวอย่างมาค่อนข้างไว จากเพื่อนใน Denimio เรื่องเวลาก็เหมาะเช่นกัน เพราะผมได้ยีนส์ Kiraku มาลองในช่วงที่คลื่นลมร้อนผ่านเข้ามาในออสเตรเลีย อากาศก็เลยชื้นไปทั่ว ดังนั้นผมหวังว่ารีวิวนี้จะช่วยให้คุณตัดสินใจซื้อได้พอดีในช่วงที่ Kiraku วางจำหน่ายที่ Denimio.
ด้วยน้ำหนักยีนส์ 12 ออนซ์ ฟีดแบ็กส่วนใหญ่จึงมองว่าเป็นยีนส์ที่ยังไม่โดดเด่น ไม่น่าสนใจเมื่อเทียบกับยีนส์เฮฟวี่เวท แต่ Kiraku จะทำให้คุณเซอร์ไพรส์แน่ ๆ! โดยเฉพาะอย่างยิ่งกับคนที่ชื่นชอบและสนใจในประวัติของแบรนด์ Oni Denim เช็คบล็อก รีวิว Shin Secret Denim ของผมก่อนหน้านี้ได้ หรืออ่านรีวิว Kiraku denim นี้ไปพร้อม ๆ กัน
ฟิตติ้ง
กางเกงยีนส์ตัวนี้เปิดตัวในชื่อว่า ONI-982KIRAKU ซึ่งยีนส์ผ้าชนิดเดียวกันนี้ก็ผลิตออกมาอีกทรง ได้แก่ ONI-602KIRAKU ซึ่งรุ่นนี้ก็จะคล้ายกันกับ คัตติ้งรุ่น 622 โดยแฟน ๆ Oni น่าจะรู้กันดีว่า 982 เป็นไฮเทเปอร์ (เอวสูง ขาเดฟ) ถือเป็นคัตติ้งค่อนข้างใหม่ของแบรนด์
ภาพนี้คือภาพที่ผมสวมกางเกงยีนส์วันแรกกับภาพหลังจากแช่น้ำเย็นแบบเร็ว ๆ 2 ครั้ง ทำให้ผ้ายีนส์หดลงเล็กน้อย
ตามกฎโดยทั่วไปแล้ว 982 ถือเป็นคัตติ้งโมเดิร์นที่เอวค่อนข้างสูง และผมคิดว่ายีนส์รุ่นนี้เข้ากับสไตล์ส่วนตัวของผม
ช่วงบนของกางเกงยีนส์มีพื้นที่เยอะ ทำให้สวมใส่และลุกนั่งได้สบาย ๆ ช่วงต้นขากว้าง เหมาะสำหรับคนที่มีต้นขาค่อนข้างใหญ่ ตั้งแต่ช่วงเหนือเข่าลงมา กางเกงยีนส์สโลปเป็นทรงเดฟอย่างเด่นชัด จบด้วยช่วงขาจะแคบลงบริเวณข้อเท้า
ฟิตติ้งรุ่นนี้คล้ายกับทรงยีนส์รุ่น Oni 622 ความแตกต่างหลัก ๆ คือเอวที่ค่อนข้างสูงของ 982 ช่วงเอวของยีนส์สูงพอที่จะทำให้คุณหมดกังวลกับกางเกงในหรือบ๊อกเซอร์ที่โผล่ออกมาตอนที่นั่งยอง ๆ
กางเกงยีนส์ตัวอย่างที่ผมได้มา มีตะเข็บขาด้านในยาวพอที่จะพับได้ถึง 2 ทบ (ถึงแม้จะเป็นการพับหลังการแช่ระยะสั้น 2 ครั้งก็ตาม) เพื่อให้มองเห็นภาพ สัดส่วนของผมคือ ส่วนสูง 185 ซม. และน้ำหนัก 93 กิโลกรัม กางเกงยีนส์ไซส์ 36 คัตติ้ง 982
ฟิตติ้งของยีนส์คือเรื่องหลัก ซึ่งวัดจากพื้นฐานประสบการณ์ของผม ยืนยันได้ว่าคัตติ้งของ 982 เหมาะมากสำหรับคนที่มีต้นขา ยีนส์รุ่น 982 จะเหมาะกับสัดส่วนของคนตะวันตกมากกว่าคัตติ้งของญี่ปุ่นรุ่นอื่น ๆ ที่ช่วงบนอาจจะแคบ
*คลิกที่ภาพเพื่อชมดีเทลชัด ๆ!
เนื้อผ้า
Kiraku เป็นเดนิมแบบ unsanforised (หดได้อีก) ขนาด 12 ออนซ์ ชนิด RHT การทอเป็นไปตามแบบฉบับวินเทจ และใช้วิธีการย้อมอินดิโก้ธรรมชาติกับเส้นด้ายแนวยาว และย้อมสีเบจบนด้ายลายขวาง
เป็นความตั้งใจของ Oni ที่ต้องการให้ยีนส์รุ่นนี้มีข้อดีหลัก ๆ 2 ข้อ หนึ่งคือ การผลิตเดนิมที่เหมาะกับการสวมใส่ในช่วงหน้าร้อน และสองคือ การทำเดนิมออกมาให้มีน้ำหนักเบาที่สุด ภายใต้เท็กซ์เจอร์ซีเคร็ทเดนิม
อีกหนึ่งจุดที่น่าสนใจอยู่ไม่น้อย ได้แก่ ตัวอักษรคันจิของ Kiraku อักษร 楽 แปลตรงตัวหมายถึง “ความสบาย” หรือ “ความง่าย” ซึ่งทำเอาผมสับสนอยู่พักใหญ่ เพราะในภาษาจีนกลาง คำนี้จะแปลว่า “ความสุข” หรือ “มีความสุข”
ความถี่ของเส้นใยในการทอที่ต่ำมาก ทำให้เดนิมรุ่นนี้มีความหยาบในระดับที่ลงตัว ซึ่งตามปกติแล้วเรามักจะเห็นการทอชนิดนี้กับยีนส์เฮฟวี่เวท แต่การใช้ยีนส์น้ำหนักเบา ทอออกมาด้วยวิธีดังกล่าวทำให้ได้ผลลัพธ์ที่แตกต่าง
Kiraku ถือเป็นเดนิมที่ผลิตยาก หรือเรียกได้ว่าเป็นแรร์ไอเท็ม!
ผ้ารุ่นนี้มีความคล้ายคลึงกับ Oni รุ่นเอ็กซ์ตร้า โลว์เท็นชั่น 14 ออนซ์ ที่คุณสามารถมองเห็นแสงทะลุผ่านเนื้อผ้าได้ ถ้าลองหยิบเอายีนส์มาส่องในที่ที่มีแสงมาก (หรือส่องกับแสงอาทิตย์) ซึ่งตามปกติแล้วเดนิมที่ให้เท็กซ์เจอร์ลักษณะนี้ได้ต้องมีน้ำหนัก 14 ออนซ์ขึ้นไป
เส้นด้ายตามแนวยาว นอกจากผลลัพธ์ที่แตกต่างด้านความ slubby แล้ว ยังให้ความหยาบและมีแฮร์รี่ (ขึ้นขน) ที่เรียกได้ว่ามากกว่ายีนส์เฮฟวี่เวทหลาย ๆ รุ่น เมื่อคิดถึงคุณสมบัติต่าง ๆ ของ Kiraku ยีนส์รุ่นนี้มีอะไรที่มากกว่าเดนิม 12 ออนซ์อยู่ค่อนข้างมาก
*คลิกที่ภาพเพื่อชมดีเทลชัด ๆ!
เท็กซ์เจอร์ของด้ายทั้งแนวตั้งและแนวนอนมีความแตกต่าง เส้นแนวตั้งมีความหยาบกว่าและแห้งกว่า ในขณะที่เส้นตามแนวนอนมีความเรียบลื่นและความสม่ำเสมอ สร้างความรู้สึกสบายเมื่อสวมใส่ เมื่อผมลองใช้นิ้วลูบไปตามเนื้อผ้า ผมสัมผัสได้ถึงความนุ่มและแห้งตามแบบฉบับของฝ้ายอเมริกันและทางแบรนด์ได้ใช้ฝ้ายเส้นใยยาวกับด้ายแนวตั้ง
สีของเดนิมก็มีความพิเศษไม่แพ้กัน ผมไม่รู้ดีเทลทั้งหมดเกี่ยวกับการย้อม (เท่าที่รู้คือใช้สีอินดิโก้ที่ได้จากไม้ที่ขึ้นตามธรรมชาติ) แต่จากความเข้าใจคือ ยีนส์รุ่นนี้ย้อมเชือกด้วยสีอินดิโก้ธรรมชาติ เส้นด้ายมีความหย่อนเล็กน้อย
การย้อมด้วยสีอินดิโก้ธรรมชาติถือเป็นสิ่งที่อธิบายเรื่องสีของยีนส์รุ่นนี้ได้ดีที่สุด ซึ่งการย้อมสีด้ายแนวตั้งน่าจะเป็นการตั้งใจทำเพื่อให้ยีนส์เฟดได้ไวและมีสีคอนทราสระดับสูง และถ้าหากจะให้ผมอธิบายถึงเรื่องของสีเดนิมรุ่นนี้ ผมคงจะบอกได้ว่าเป็นผ้าที่ให้สีเดนิมแบบคลีน จัดจ้าน สีค่อนข้างเข้มและเป็นธรรมชาติ
เส้นด้ายแนวนอนก็ได้รับการย้อมสีเบา ๆ เช่นเดียวกัน โดยเป็นการใช้สีเบจ
ดีเทล
*คลิกที่ภาพเพื่อชมดีเทลชัด ๆ!
ดีเทลของยีนส์รุ่นนี้ไม่ได้แตกต่างไปจากกางเกงยีนส์ Oni รุ่น 1-2 ปีก่อนหน้านี้มากเท่าไหร่นัก จุดเด่นทุกอย่างยังคงอยู่ และเส้นอาร์คบนกระเป๋าหลังยังคงรูปแบบเดิมไว้
ป้ายแพทช์ของ Oni ถูกออกแบบให้ใช้วัตถุดิบเป็นหนังกวางเกรดดี ถือเป็นการใช้หนึ่งในวัตถุดิบที่ดีที่สุดเลยก็ว่าได้
การเฟดของหนังรุ่นนี้บอกเลยว่าสุดยอดจริง แต่การพลาดโดยการใส่ลงในเครื่องปั่นแห้งอาจทำให้หนังไหม้ได้ในพริบตา ดังนั้นเพื่อผลลัพธ์ที่ดีที่สุดควรตากให้แห้งตามธรรมชาติ
ป้ายแท็กมาพร้อมกับเครื่องหมายการค้า ถูกเย็บไว้บริเวณด้านในขอบเอวกางเกงยีนส์ จากประสบการณ์ที่ผ่านมาของผมคือ แท็กเองก็จะมีความเปลี่ยนแปลงเมื่อสวมใส่ยีนส์ไปได้สักระยะ แปรผันตามสีอินดิโก้ของยีนส์ กระดุม custom 100% ที่มาพร้อมกับหมุดเพิ่มความแข็งแรง กระดุมโดนัท Button-fly ที่โดยทั่วไปแล้วนับว่าได้รับการพัฒนาจากกระดุมช่อมะกอกที่ Oni Denim เคยใช้ในยีนส์รุ่นก่อน ๆ และใช้หมุด Universal เพื่อเพิ่มความแข็งแรงตามจุดต่าง ๆ สีทองแดงของหมุดจะซีดลงตามกาลเวลา แน่นอนว่าหมุนซ่อนก็รวมอยู่ด้วยที่ตำแหน่งด้านในของกระเป๋าหลัง เสริมความแข็งแรงได้เป็นอย่างดี
ภาพรวมการเย็บมีความสม่ำเสมอ ประณีตเรียบร้อย ใช้ด้ายสีเลม่อนและส้มที่ผสมผสานกันได้อย่างลงตัว โครงสร้างของกางเกงยีนส์รุ่นนี้ไม่ได้ตรงตามยีนส์วินเทจแบบเป๊ะ ๆ มีการใช้ด้ายจากฝ้ายเส้นใยขนาดใหญ่เย็บเป็นลายห่วงโซ่ การเย็บหนาแน่นและสม่ำเสมอ ปัจจัยสำคัญของโครงสร้าง อย่างเช่น รังดุม, รอบเอว รวมถึงตะเข็บทั้งหมด ถูกผลิตออกมาอย่างมืออาชีพ ห่วงสอดเข็มขัด 5 ชิ้น เย็บและเก็บงานได้เรียบร้อย กระเป๋ามาในแบบเรียบ ๆ แต่ใช้ผ้าทอลายทแยง (Twill) ตัวเดียวกับที่ใช้กับการเปิดตัว Aizumi เมื่อปีก่อน ถ้าจะเทียบไปแล้ว ยีนส์รุ่นนี้ก็ไม่โหดถึงขั้น Kurashiki แต่แน่นอนว่า Kiraku ให้ความสบายในการสวมใส่ และช่วงต้นขาก็ไม่แคบจนเกินไป สุดท้ายเป็นเรื่องของริมที่ทำออกมาลักษณะเดียวกันกับ Secret Denim โดยถูกปรับให้แตกต่างเล็กน้อยด้วยการใช้ด้ายสีชมพู
ความเห็นที่มีต่อกางเกงยีนส์รุ่นนี้
ในการรีวิวเดนิม Kiraku รุ่นใหม่นี้ ผมคิดว่ามี 2 อย่างที่ควรค่าแก่การหาคำตอบ ได้แก่ การพัฒนาเนื้อผ้าของแบรนด์ Oni Denim ซึ่งคำถามแรกที่ผมอยากรู้เลยก็คือ Kiraku เป็นเดนิมที่ตอบโจทย์ที่สุดในการสวมใส่ช่วงอากาศร้อนหรือไม่? และอีกหนึ่งข้อคือ การเปรียบเทียบระหว่าง Kiraku กับ Oni รุ่นเฮฟวี่รุ่นอื่น ๆ อย่าง Shin Secret, Aizumi, Kuroai รุ่นไหนจะได้ใจสายฮาร์ดคอร์มากกว่ากัน?
เรามาคุยกันถึงเรื่องน้ำหนักของยีนส์และสภาพอากาศกัน
สำหรับคนที่เล่นยีนส์เป็นงานอดิเรก คงเป็นเรื่องธรรมดาที่เราจะโฟกัสไปที่ยีนส์ที่มีน้ำหนักมาก โดยเฉพาะอย่างยิ่งกับคนที่เพิ่งเริ่มต้น สำหรับอีกหลาย ๆ คนที่โปรดปรานการแต่งกายแบบอเมริกันเรโทร อาจจะชอบยีนส์รุ่น Mid-weight น้ำหนัก 14-16 ออนซ์ นอกจากนี้การผลิตผ้าเลียนแบบเดนิมในช่วงก่อนปี 1960 เป็นไปได้ยากมากที่ใช้ผ้าที่มีน้ำหนักน้อยกว่า 13 ออนซ์
ยิ่งไปกว่านั้นคือ ปัจจัยเรื่องอากาศที่ร้อนขึ้นนั้นมีผลต่อมาตรฐานความหนาของเสื้อผ้าที่แตกต่างกันไป สำหรับคนรักยีนส์อาจจะยังพูดว่าผ้าหนัก ๆ หนา ๆ ที่ยังสามารถสวมใส่ได้ในช่วงหน้าร้อนอยู่ที่ประมาณ 21 ออนซ์ (เทียบจากแบรนด์ Iron Heart) ในขณะที่คนทั่วไปบอกว่าถ้าร้อนเกินกว่า 30 องศา ยังไงก็ใส่ขาสั้นลูกเดียว
และอย่างที่ผมได้บอกไปก่อนหน้านี้ ผมได้ลองใส่ Kiraku ในช่วงคลื่นลมร้อนออสเตรเลีย และอากาศร้อนที่สุดอยู่ที่ 46 องศาเซลเซียส ผมใส่ Kiraku ได้แบบไม่มีปัญหา เมื่อยีนส์สัมผัสกับผิว ผมรู้สีกได้ถึงความเรียบลื่น ไม่ใช่แค่เฉพาะเนื้อผ้าที่ระบายอากาศ แต่เส้นใยยังมีความนุ่มสบาย ในขณะเดียวกันเท็กซ์เจอร์ก็มีความโดดเด่น ซึ่งสำหรับผมแล้ว Kiraku เป็นยีนส์ที่น่าสนใจ ทำให้ผมใส่ได้แบบไม่มีเบื่อ อันที่จริงแล้วเดนิมรุ่นนี้ทำให้ผมประทับใจระดับหนึ่ง เพราะยิ่งจับยิ่งสัมผัส ก็ยิ่งทำให้เซอร์ไพรส์ว่าเนื้อผ้าแบบนี้ทำจากยีนส์น้ำหนักเบาได้ยังไง
คอนเซปต์ด้านนวัตกรรมของเดนิมรุ่นนี้ชี้ให้ผมเห็นว่า ไม่ว่าจะยังไง Kiraku ก็คือเดนิมได้รับการดีไซน์จากผู้ที่มีความเชี่ยวชาญระดับสูง จากคน ๆ หนึ่งที่คาดหวังความลงตัวระหว่างเดนิมที่หยาบแต่ให้ความสบายในการสวมใส่ จากคน ๆ หนึ่งที่ใส่ยีนส์เฮฟวี่มานานหลายปีอย่างไม่มีทางเลือก ดังนั้นเพื่อตอบคำถามแรกที่ผมระบุไว้ก่อนหน้านี้ ผมคงพูดได้ว่า Kiraku เป็นทางเลือกที่น่าสนและตอบโจทย์ได้ดีที่สุดในฐานะ “เดนิมที่ควรค่าแก่การสวมใส่ช่วงซัมเมอร์”
ในขณะเดียวกัน Kiraku ก็ยังเป็นยีนส์ที่เหมาะสำหรับมือใหม่หัดเล่นยีนส์ บางทีคุณอาจเป็นคนที่เกลียดความไม่สบายในการใส่ยีนส์เฮฟวี่เวท หรือบางทีคุณอาจจะแค่ไม่อยากสูญเสียความสบายไปเพียงเพราะอยากใส่ผ้าฝ้ายดิบ ดังนั้น Kiraku จึงเป็นยีนส์ที่ได้รับการถักทออย่างสมบูรณ์แบบ เป็นผ้ายีนส์สีอินดิโก้ที่อยู่อันดับต้น ๆ ของคนเล่นยีนส์
นอกจากนี้แล้ว เดนิมน้ำหนักเบา Kiraku สามารถเทียบเท่าได้กับยีนส์รุ่นอื่น ๆ ของ Oni
Oni อยากจะเห็นว่าตัวเองนั้นสามารถผลิตยีนส์น้ำหนักเบาที่สุด ที่ยังคงเท็กซ์เจอร์ของ Secret Denim ได้มากแค่ไหน แน่นอนว่าเดิมน้ำหนัก 12 ออนซ์ ไม่สามารถทำให้มีดีเทลได้มากเท่าเดนิม 20 ออนซ์ เนื่องจากความหนาที่น้อยกว่ามาก ๆ ดังนั้นผมจึงต้องบอกเลยว่า ผมยังไม่เคยเห็นผ้าเดนิมไลท์เวทรุ่นไหนที่เตะตาได้เท่า Kiraku ดังนั้น Kiraku จึงกลายเป็นผ้าที่มีรายละเอียดน้อยไปโดยปริยายเมื่อเทียบกับ Secret denim และเมื่อนึกถึง Kiraku ในมุมที่เป็นผ้า Secret denim น้ำหนัก 12 ออนซ์
การย้อมสีอินดิโก้ธรรมชาติทำให้สีที่ได้เกิดการคอนทราสอย่างลงตัวระหว่างสีเขียวและสีหมึก ทำให้ได้เฉดสีอินดิโก้ที่มีเสน่ห์และทำให้ Kiraku แมทช์กับเสื้อยืดและรองเท้าผ้าใบในช่วงซัมเมอร์ได้เป็นอย่างดี
ตอบคำถามข้อที่ 2 ผมคงต้องบอกว่า Kiraku คือยีนส์ที่มีคอนเซปต์ดีที่สุด ในมุมที่เป็นเดนิมไลท์เวท ดังนั้น Kiraku จึงถือเป็นหนึ่งในผ้าที่ควรค่ากับแฟนตัวจริงของ Oni อย่างแน่นอน
แล้วยีนส์รุ่นนี้มีข้อเสียบ้างไหม? คุณอาจมีคำถามนี้เกิดขึ้นในหัว ดังนั้นเพื่อเป็นการบาลานซ์รีวิวนี้ ผมขอบอกว่าผสมผสานกันระหว่างการทอแบบ Low Tention (ความหนาแน่นต่ำ) กับยีนส์น้ำหนักเบาเช่นนี้ อาจส่งผลเรื่องความคงทนของกางเกงยีนส์ ซึ่งผมเองก็ไม่สามารถบอกได้ว่าเป็นยีนส์จะใช้งานได้นานเท่าไหร่ ส่วนนี้ต้องขึ้นอยู่กับการใช้งานของแต่ละคน
ผมขอโน้ตไว้อีกข้อหนึ่งคือ ประสบการณ์ครั้งแรกของผมกับคัตติ้ง Oni 982 ต้องบอกว่าผมรู้สึกสนุกมาก ๆ ที่ได้ทดลองใส่ยีนส์รุ่นนี้
สิ่งหนึ่งที่ผมสังเกตได้คือ มันมีความคล้ายคลึงกับคัตติ้งของ Tanuki’s HT สองแบรนด์นี้มีความคล้ายกันหลายอย่าง (หากคุณสังเกตดี ๆ คุณจะพบว่า Kiraku มีความคล้ายกับ Tanuki’s Kaze denim เช่นกัน!)
กางเกงยีนส์ 982 คัตติ้งไฮเทเปอร์ (เอวสูง ขาเดฟ) เหมาะกับรูปร่างของผมมาก ๆ ซึ่งพิสูจน์ให้เห็นถึงการพัฒนาของคัตติ้งสำหรับ “ตลาดเมืองนอก” เมื่อเทียบกับฟิตติ้งของ Oni ในปีก่อน ๆ แต่ก็ต้องบอกไว้ก่อนว่าคัตติ้งรุ่นนี้อาจจะไม่เหมาะกับคนที่ผอมมาก ๆ เพราะช่วงต้นขาจะหย่อนย้วยไปหน่อย แต่สำหรับเคสอื่น ๆ 982 ถือเป็นแคสชวลสตรีทแวร์ที่คุณไม่ควรพลาด
ทั้งหมดทั้งมวลที่ผมได้กล่าวมานั้น Kiraku กลายเป็นมาตรฐานใหม่ของไลท์เดนิม นอกจากการนำเสนอความลงตัวระหว่างเนื้อผ้าและความสบายได้อย่างสมบูรณ์แบบแล้ว ผ้า Kiraku ยังถือเป็นความสำเร็จขั้นสุดยอดในแง่ของนวัตกรรมสิ่งทอ เท็กซ์เจอร์ที่สมบูรณ์แบบ บวกกับโทนสีอินดิโก้ที่กระทบกับแสงอาทิตย์แล้วให้สีอันน่าทึ่ง ข้อนี้เป็นสิ่งที่ผมรอดูด้วยความตื่นเต้นว่าในอนาคต ถ้าผ้าชนิดนี้ถูกผลิตออกมาในโทนสีที่แตกต่างกันแล้วจะให้ผลลัพธ์ยังไงบ้าง
ยีนส์ ONI-982KIRAKU ในราคา 23,000 เยน ผมถือว่าเป็นราคาที่ไม่แพง เพราะการผลิตที่ใช้ความพยายามพัฒนาต่อเนื่องมาหลายปี คือการลงทุนกับผ้ายีนส์รุ่นนี้บวกกับการใช้สีอินดิโก้ธรรมชาติในการย้อมอีก ผ้ารุ่นใหม่ของ Oni Denim รุ่นนี้ถือเป็นรุ่นแนะนำ ทั้งกับมือใหม่และนักสะสมยีนส์ทั้งหลาย หากคุณกำลังมองหากางเกงยีนส์สำหรับใส่ช่วงหน้าร้อน ผมมั่นใจว่า Kiraku ต้องเป็นหนึ่งในรุ่นท็อป
ลองเช็คสเปคและราคาที่ดีที่สุดจาก Denimio ยีนส์ Early review ถือเป็นอะไรที่ผมอยากนำมาลงบล็อกสักระยะแล้ว แต่ก็ยากที่จะได้มาจากผู้ผลิตโดยตรง ดังนั้นต้องขอขอบคุณเพื่อนในวงการอย่าง Denimio ที่ทำให้ผมได้รับโอกาสครั้งนี้
เราหวังเป็นอย่างยิ่งว่าข้อมูลทั้งหมดนี้จะช่วยให้คุณรู้จัก ONI-982KIRAKU มากยิ่งขึ้น นอกจากนี้เรายังมีเรื่องราวอินไซด์ของ ONI Kiraku denim ยีนส์รุ่นนี้ได้แชร์อยู่ที่บล็อกก่อนหน้านี้ คลิกที่นี่เพื่ออ่านเรื่องราวเกี่ยวกับ Kiraku Denim
Inilah ulasan ONI982 KIRAKU oleh denim pakar ‘Indigoshrimp’. Kami ingin berkongsi maklumat mengenai populariti ONI Kiraku kerana fabrik, teknik dan semua butiran istimewa dalam pembinaan seluar jeans unik ini.Apakah pendapat Indigoshrimp terhadap ONI982 KIRAKU ini? Baca ulasan lengkap hanya di Denimio!
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Selamat datang kembali ke Indigoshrimp, dan saya mendapat sesuatu yang istimewa untuk Anda hari ini!
Saya bernasib baik mendapatkan jeans pertama fabrik terbaru ini dari kakitangan Denimio. Ini juga masa yang tepat kerana saya dapat menguji jeans Kiraku pada cuaca panas di Australia. Saya berharap kajian semula ini dapat membantu Anda jika Anda mahu mendapatkan Kiraku di Denimio.
Bagi peminat denim yang belum mengenal Oni Kiraku, denim 12oz boleh dianggap agak rata dan tidak cukup menarik semasa berbanding dengan denim yang lebih berat. Tetapi Kiraku mungkin akan mengejutkan Anda! Untuk orang yang berminat dalam sejarah jenama Oni Denim, sila layari ulasan untuk Shin Secret Denim. Kini, mari kita bersama cari tahu tentang denim Kiraku terbaru ini.
FIT
Gambar fitting di bawah ini adalah ONI-982KIRAKU. Cutting ONI-602KIRAKU juga tersedia di mana cutting tersebut direka bentuk berdasarkan model 622. Peminat Oni tentu mengetahui bahawa 982 adalah cutting high tapered fit yang juga adalah koleksi terbaru Oni Denim.
Gambar-gambar ini diambil pada hari pertama & kedua selepas rendam dengan air sejuk dan denim ini telah pun menyusut sedikit.
982 adalah cutting moden dengan reka bentuk rise dan pinggang yang agak tinggi. Sebab itu, jeans ini memberikan fit sempurna sesuai dengan bentuk tubuh saya.
Seluar jeans ini mempunyai banyak ruang di belakang. Bahagian paha juga mempunyai ruang yang cukup dan sesuai untuk Anda yang mempunyai aktiviti harian yang aktif. Seluar jeans ini mempunyai cutting ramping yang bermula dari bahagian atas lutut dan pembukaan yang sempit di bahagian pergelangan kaki.
Fitting jeans 982 ini direka bentuk berdasarkan cutting Oni 622 yang terkenal, tapi dengan rise yang lebih tinggi. Reka bentuk ini mungkin mengelakkan situasi di mana seluar dalam Anda tidak sengaja dilihat semasa Anda sedang jongkok! Bahagian inseam mempunyai ukuran yang cukup panjang untuk melakukan double cuff setelah direndam awal. Sebagai rujukan untuk Anda, saya mempunyai tinggi 185 cm dan berat 93 kg, memakai saiz 36 dengan jeans ber-cutting 982.
Fitting jeans adalah pilihan yang sangat subjektif. Tapi, berdasar pengalaman saya cutting 982 sangat sesuai untuk dipakai oleh penggemar denim yang mempunyai bentuk tubuh yang lebih atletik.
Denim dengan cutting 982 ini biasa popular dipakai oleh orang Barat berbanding dengan cutting denim Jepun lain yang sempit di bahagian atas jeans.
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FABRIK
Kiraku addalah denim unsanforised dengan berat 12oz. Denim ini ditenun dengan mesin tenun shuttle vintaj dan menggunakan teknik rope dye untuk mewarnai bahagian warp dengan bahan indigo alami dan weft yang berwarna beige.
Oni ingin mewujudkan dua keinginan melalui denim ini.…Pertama, hasilkan jeans yang cukup ringan untuk hari musim panas. Kedua, bereksperimen untuk menciptakan fabrik paling ringan bertekstur secret denim.
Menariknya, huruf kanji untuk Kiraku 楽 dapat diterjemah sebagai “keselesaan” atau “kemudahan”. Pada mulanya, terjemahan ini sangat mengelirukan kerana saya lebih biasa dengan Bahasa Mandarin kepada “kesenangan” atau “kegembiraan”.
Denim ini mempunyai ketegangan penenunan yang sangat rendah. Secara keseluruhan, denim ini mempunyai struktur agak longgar. Ciri longgar berstruktur 6 x 6 ini (secara tradisional digunakan pada denim berat) menghasilkan tekstur tidak teratur yang menarik.
Denim Kiraku adalah inovasi terbaru yang luar biasa!
Pori benang dapat dilihat dengan nyata dan Anda rasakan saat memakai. Sama seperti fabrik 14oz Oni berketegangan rendah lainnya, Anda dapat mengamati adanya sedikit cahaya yang menembusi denim apabila Anda memegang jeans ini di bawah cahaya matahari. Di samping itu, Anda dapat merasakan udara yang menembusi denim ini; pemakaian yang terasa lebih selesa berbanding dengan denim 14oz dan denim berat lain.
Permukaan benang wrap mempunyai tekstur neppy, slubby dan tidak teratur. Corak slubby di denim ini mempunyai tekstur yang lebih kasar daripada denim slubby lain – dengan garis yang lebih panjang dengan bercorak menegak. Selain itu, tekstur hairy yang diciptakan oleh benang wrap memberikan crispy pada denim Kiraku ini.
Dengan semua aksara ini, Kiraku terbukti mempunyai elemen yang intens jika dibandingkan dengan denim 12oz yang lain.
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Benang wrap dan weft mempunyai tekstur yang sangat berbeza. Benang warp mempunyai tekstur yang lebih kasar – bergelombang dan sedikit crispy. Benang weft mempunyai tekstur yang lebih halus, rata dan selesa. Saya cuba menyentuh permukaan benang wrap. Rasanya seperti kapas Amerika yang lembut dan crispy. Dari segi benang weft, saya yakin kapas berserabut panjang digunakan untuk menghasilkan tekstur halus ini.
Teknik pewarna denim ini juga cukup istimewa. Saya tidak tahu butiran yang lengkap tentang bahan pewarna yang digunakan (asal tumbuhan yang menghasilkan pewarnaan indigo semula jadi), walaupun saya tahu bahawa denim ini berwarna menggunakan bahan indigo semula jadi. Tetapi sudah tentu, saya dapat melihat hasil pewarna teknik rope-dye denim dari bahagian benang tenun yang longgar dari denim ini.
Denim pewarna indigo semulajadi ini mencipta paparan denim biru yang berbeza dengan mengikut keadaan pencahayaan yang berlainan. Teknik pewarna rope-dyed dalam benang warp akan menghasilkan fading yang lebih cepat dan lebih kontras daripada fabrik berwarna tradisional yang lain. Denim biru ini kelihatan minimalis, kontras, sedikit gelap dan organik.
Benang weft juga berwarna – ia mempunyai warna beige seperti warna keju, di mana warna menembus benang kain dengan mendalam.
Details
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Perincian jeans ini tidak terlalu berbeza dari koleksi Oni dalam satu hingga dua tahun yang lalu. Dalam kata lain, butiran bell & whistlel dan bentuk arcs mempunyai reka bentuk yang sama.
Trademark patch kulit rusa Oni hanya menggunakan bahan berkualiti yang terbaik. Patch kulit rusa ini akan mengalami penuaan dengan baik, tapi mudah terbakar apabila ia kering dengan dryer – Anda akan mendapatkan hasil penuaan yang lebih baik jika Anda kering jeans ini dengan cara dijemur.
Tag trademark Oni dipaparkan pada bahagian waistband. Tag ini akan mengalami penuaan dengan cara yang unik sesuai dengan evolusi denim indigo ini. Butang fully-customized dan rivets boleh diperhatikan. Butang donat dan 5-butang button fly menonjol pada tekstur denim ini. Sudah tentu, butang ini mempunyai kualiti penampilan yang lebih baik jika berbanding dengan butang laurel wreath pada jeans Oni Denim lain. Rivets punch-thru disesuaikan dengan reka bentuk Universal burr. Bahan tembaga pada rivets akan mengalami teroksida dari masa ke masa.
Hidden rivets Universal juga dicari pada bahagian belakang poket bar-tacking. Keseluruhan jahitan sangat kemas dan cantik. Benang berwarna kuning dan jingga yang dominan menghasilkan warna gabungan dengan lancar.
Konstruksi denim ini tidak dihasilkan berdasarkan reka bentuk tradisional. Jadi Anda jangan mengharapkan jahitan chainstitching yang besar dan tebal.
Walau bagaimanapun, boleh perhatikan bahawa hasil jahitan jeans ini agak padat dan teratur. Struktur lubang butang, waistband dan penjahitan fly dilakukan secara profesional. Lima belt loops didapati pada bahagian waistband. Penjahitan dilakukan dengan kemas. Kain poket mempunyai reka bentuk biasa tetapi dilakukan dengan fabrik twill yang kuat dan juga digunakan pada denim Aizumi tahun lepas. Tidak seperti denim Kurashiki yang lain, denim ini jelas lebih selesa dan mempunyai lebih banyak ruang di bahagian paha. Selvedge ID denim ini mempunyai watak secret denim dengan konfigurasi merah jambu yang kontras.
PENDAPAT PERIBADI
Dalam kajian semula denim baru Kiraku ini, saya berfikir dua pertimbangan yang perlu dibincangkan dalam fabrik Oni Denim ini. Pertama, adakah kain baru ini merupakan penyelesaian terbaik untuk penggemar denim untuk memakai denim pada musim panas? Kedua, apakah perbezaan antara Kiraku denim berbanding dengan koleksi lain seperti Shin Secret, Aizumi, Kuroai, dll?
Mari kita bercakap tentang berat denim dan cuaca.
Secara umum, denimhead meminati fabrik yang lebih berat terutama bagi pembeli denim baru. Ramai denimhead akan lebih berminat denim berat antara 14 oz dan 16 oz bergaya retro/ Amerika. Ini disebabkan oleh pengeluaran fabrik biasanya mengikut gaya denim dari tahun 1960-an. Oleh itu, sangat sukar bagi penggemar untuk menganggap denim ringan 13oz sebagai denim yang menarik.
Selain itu, setiap orang mempunyai toleransi yang berbeza tentang ketebalan pakaian dan suhu suasana. Beberapa peminat denim dapat memakai denim Iron Heart 21 oz pada musim panas di Asia Tenggara dan ada peminat denim lain boleh memakai seluar pendek saja pada suhu melebihi 30 darjah.
Seperti yang saya katakan, saya menguji Kiraku pada musim panas Australia dengan paling panas hingga 46 darjah Celsius dan saya memakai Kiraku tanpa kepanasan. Denim fabrik bukan sahaja ditembusi oleh udara, tetapi permukaan benang weft denim ini juga perasaan selesa & agak halus. Dalam hal tekstur, Kiraku berjaya menarik perhatian saya dengan watak denim ringan yang unik ini. Tekstur kontras di antara permukaan benang wrap & weft boleh perhatian.
Teknologi hebat yang digunakan menghasilkan denim ini menunjukkan bahawa standard Kiraku direka dengan teliti. Fabrik ini direka oleh profesional denim yang ingin mencipta keseimbangan terbaik antara keselesaan dan tekstur yang biasanya hanya terdapat di denim berat. Untuk menjawab soalan pertama tadi, saya dapat mengatakan bahawa Kiraku adalah penyelesaian terbaik sebagai “denim yang sesuai digunakan pada musim panas”.
Sebaliknya, Kiraku juga merupakan koleksi pembelian pertama yang sesuai untuk pemula yang hobi denim. Mungkin anda bimbang jika denim tebal akan merasa tidak selesa atau sebahagian daripada anda yang suka denim berat tidak berani mencuba denim ringan. Kiraku merupakan denim berkualiti yang anda boleh cuba dengan tenunan benang indigo premium. Anda akan kagum pada tekstur denim yang mempunyai watak secret denim 20 oz.
Adakah Kiraku sebanding dengan denim berat pada koleksi Oni yang lain?
Oni ingin bereksperimen dan menghasilkan denim ringan sambil mengekalkan tekstur secret denim. Secara realistik, denim 12oz tidak mempunyai tekstur yang terperinci seperti 20oz denim kerana ketebalan dan kapas yang digunakan adalah berbeza. Tapi, saya belum pernah melihat fabrik ringan dengan tekstur yang begitu kompleks seperti denim Kiraku. Walaupun Kiraku mempunyai tekstur yang tidak begitu rumit sebagai secret denim, ia boleh difikir bahawa Kiraku dapat dianggap sebagai manifestasi denim 12oz dengan teknik tenunan secret denim berbanding dengan produk lain.
Pewarna denim indigo semulajadi ini memamerkan hasil kontras hijau yang menjadi ciri khas Oni. Anda akan tertarik dengan warna biru organik. Keperibadian indigo ini agak menarik dan memberi Kiraku denim ini senang pakai dengan shirt atau sneaker pada musim panas.
Untuk menjawab soalan kedua, saya fikir bahawa Kiraku mampu menghasilkan konsep terbaik sebagai standard baru dalam denim ringan, bergaya & senang dipakai. Oleh itu, Kiraku akan menjadi inovasi yang popular di dalam peminat fabrik Oni.
Adakah terdapat kelemahan pada denim ini? Nah, saya harus menyebutkan bahawa gabungan ketegangan yang rendah, longgar dan ringan berpotensi kesan ke atas ketahanan denim Kiraku jika berbanding denim dengan yang lebih berat. Saya tidak dapat memastikan ketahanan denim ini kerana hanya waktu akan membuktikannya.
Selain itu, ini adalah pengalaman pertama saya dengan Oni 982 dan sejauh ini, saya mesti katakan saya sangat menikmati Oni Kiraku 982 .
Saya perhatikan ia agak serupa cutting dengan Tanuki HT dan kedua jenama banyak persamaan. (Jika diperiksa dengan teliti pada Kiraku dan anda akan melihat persamaan tertentu dengan denim Kaze Tanuki!)
Denim 982 dengan cutting high tapered lebih sesuai dengan bentuk badan saya dan terbukti lebih sesuai daripada cutting Oni yang lama. Saya harus cakap cutting ini mungkin tidak sesuai dengan orang langsing kerana paha akan terlalu longgar. Selain itu, 982 mempunyai gaya Amerika moden dan sesuai sebagai pakaian kasual dan pakaian bergaya street style.
Keseluruhannya, Kiraku berjaya menciptakan standard baru untuk denim yang ringan. Selain menunjukkan peminat dengan keseimbangan tekstur dan keselesaan denim ini, denim Kiraku adalah inovasi terbaik dalam perspektif teknikal. Tekstur dan berat denim ini sangat berkualiti baik dengan warna indigo semula jadi yang menakjubkan di bawah cahaya matahari! Saya berharapkan melihat tenunan ini akan berlaku inovasi dengan nuansa indigo yang berbeza pada masa akan datang.
Dengan harga RRP 23, 000 JPY, ONI-982KIRAKU mempunyai nilai yang bagus dengan berkualiti tinggi. Proses eksperimen untuk menghasilkan inovasi denim ini memerlukan masa yang agak lama dan terutama menggunakan pewarna indigo semulajadi. Oni Denim produk terbaru ini adalah cadangan terbaik untuk pembelian baru & pengumpul denim jika Anda sedang mencari seluar jeans istimewa untuk musim panas. Kiraku akan menjadi pilihan utama Anda.
Dapatkan sekarang dengan harga terbaik di Denimio.
Terima kasih kerana memberi saya peluang untuk ulasan denim ini.
Maklumat di atas pastinya membuat Anda tahu lebih lanjut tentang ONI-982KIRAKU. Kami juga berada maklumat tentang ONI Kiraku denim pada blog kami yang terdahulu, jadi klik sini untuk baca lebih lanjut.
오늘은 데님 전문가 인디고 쉬림프 (Indigoshrimp)가 소개한 특별한 데님을 데니미오 블로그에 소개하려고 합니다.
*고화질로 보려면 사진을 클릭하세요!
Indigoshrimp 에 다시 오신것을 환영합니다, 오늘 여러분들을 위해 특별한 것을 준비했습니다!
오니 키라쿠 데님 출시 전 먼저 데니미오(Denimio)를 통해 샘플 몇 벌을 얻게 됐습니다.
호주의 무더운 여름 기간 동안 키라쿠 데님을 테스트할 수 있었기 때문에 타이밍도 정말 완벽했습니다. 제 리뷰가 데니미오에서 키라쿠 데님을 구매하시는데 도움이 될 수 있으면 좋겠습니다.
먼저 무게면을 살펴보면, 키라쿠 데님은 12온스인데 무거운 원단과 비교했을 때 상대적으로 평평하다고 느낄 수 있습니다. 오니 데님의 히스토리가 궁금하신 분은 저의 이전 리뷰 신 시크릿 데님 리뷰 편을 확인해주세요. 그럼 리뷰 바로 들어갑니다.
핏
여기서 리뷰할 제품은 Oni Kiraku 982와 602 버전입니다. 602의 경우 오니 데님의 622 컷과 비슷합니다. 982의 경우엔 오니에서 새롭게 추가한 라인업으로 하이 테이퍼드 컷입니다.
이 사진은 데님을 조금 수축하기 위해 찬물에 빠르게 소킹한 1, 2일 후의 핏입니다.
오니 키라쿠 982는 모던한 느낌이고 상대적으로 하이 웨스트 스타일입니다
제 경우에는 이 핏이 제 체형에 잘 맞았습니다. 데님 위쪽을 보면 골반과 앉는 부분에 여유가 있는데요. 허벅지 부분이 타이트하지 않아 운동 선수 같은 다리 핏을 갖고 계신 분들에게도 잘 어울리는 핏입니다. 무릎 바로 위부터 약간 강하게 가늘어지며 발목 근처에서 좁게 마무리 됩니다.
착용했을 때 오니 데님의 622 컷과 매우 비슷합니다. 가장 큰 차이점은 982가 하이라이즈 컷이라는 점입니다. 수그리거나 앉을 때 속옷이 보이지 않을까 하는 걱정할 필요없는 하이라이즈 컷입니다.
제가 샘플로 받은 데님을 보시면 초기 소킹 후에도 더블 커프의 가랑이 부분이 긴 것을 확인할 수 있습니다. 참고로 제 사이즈는 185 cm, 93 kg이고, 키라쿠 982 36 사이즈를 착용했습니다
청바지 핏감은 주관적이긴 한데, 제 경험상 오니 키라쿠 982는 슬림한 다리 라인보다는 체격이 있는 체형에 적합한 것 같습니다.
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패브릭
그래서 데님 패브릭이 상당히 느슨하구요.
키라쿠 데님에는 무거운 데님을 제작할 때 사용하는 6×6 번수가 사용되어 패브릭이 가벼움에도 불구하고 불규칙적인 질감을 보여주고 있습니다.
오니 데님의 이전 로우 텐션 14온스 직물과 마찬가지로, 키라쿠 데님을 햇빛 쪽으로 들어올리면 데님을 통과하는 약간의 빛을 관찰할 수 있는데요.
청바지를 입었을 때 일반 고온스 데님보다 편안하고 통풍이 잘 되는 느낌입니다. 키라쿠 데님은 일반 14온스 데님보다 통풍성이 좋습니다.
데님의 세로실은 슬러비함 때문에 불규칙일뿐만 아니라 적당히 네프감이 있습니다.
또한 세로실에는 상대적으로 털이 없기 때문에 키라쿠 데님이 드라이하게 보이는 효과를 줍니다.
모든 것을 종합적으로 고려해봤을 때 키라쿠 데님은 12온스 데님보다 훨씬 강렬합니다.
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와프와 웨프트의 질감은 다소 다릅니다. 와프가 좀 더 울퉁불퉁하고, 약간 건조하며 노치가 있는 거친 질감이라면, 웨프트는 피부에 닿았을 때 부드럽고 편안한 느낌을 줍니다.
데님 색상도 특별합니다.
로프 염색된 내츄럴 인디고 데님인데 느슨한 실을 보면 로프 염색된 것을 확인할 수 있습니다.
천연 인디고 염료의 경우 빛의 조건에 따라 디스플레이 되는 명암이 좀 더 흥미롭게 변이되는 것을 볼 수 있습니다.
와프가 로프 염색되었다는 것은 데님의 페이드가 좀 더 빠르고 대조적으로 진행된다는 것을 의미합니다.
데님 색은 깨끗하고 적당히 어두운 청색입니다. 웨프트도 부드러운 베이지 색으로 표현되었습니다.
디테일
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키라쿠 데님의 디테일은 오니 데님의 이전 버전과 크게 달라지지 않았습니다. 아크도 같은 모양을 유지하고 있습니다.
오니 데님의 가축 패치에 사용된 고급 사슴 가죽의 경우 그을리거나 잘 말려서 가죽이 노화를 우아하게 만들 수 있습니다. 데님의 태그 부분은 오니 데님의 트레이드 마크를 잘 보여주고 있습니다. 이 데님과 인디고가 잘 매치되도록 멋지게 노화될거라 생각합니다. 커스터마이징 버튼 및 리벳. 데님에 장착된 5개의 리벳 역시 텍스쳐가 매우 우수합니다. 특히 제가 갖고 있는 오니 데님의 laurel wreath 버튼보다 업그레이드 된 버전인 것 같습니다.
펀치된 리벳은 커스터마이즈된 유니버설 버 리벳 (Universal burr rivets) 입니다.
리벳의 사용된 코퍼가 시간에 지남에 따라 멋있게 산화될 것입니다. 안쪽에 숨겨진 유니버설 리벳도 찾을 수 있는데요. 백 포켓을 고정시키는 부분 바로 아래에 있습니다. 전체적으로 봤을 때 바느질도 깔끔하고, 간결합니다. 레몬과 오렌지 색이 인디고와 잘 매치됩니다. 이 구조의 경우 엄격한 복각 제품이 아니기 때문에 체인 스티칭이 필요하지 않는데 그럼에도 바늘질이 치밀하고 규칙적인 것을 확인할 수 있습니다. 버튼 구멍, 허리 밴드 및 이음새와 같은 부분도 프로페셔널하게 마감 처리되었습니다.
5개의 벨트 루프가 중앙에서 올라오고, 그 부착물 역시 깔끔하게 고정 되었습니다. 포켓 천은 평범하지만 Aizumi 데님 출시 전의 단단한 트윌 패브릭 (능직물)을 사용했습니다. 허벅지 부분이 확실히 편안하고 덜 부각되어 보이는 장점이 있습니다. 핑크 셀비지가 사용된 것을 확인할 수 있습니다.
마치면서
데님 마니아들의 경우 무거운 패브릭인지 중점적으로 보는데, 특히 데님에 관심을 두기 시작하는 초기 데님 마니아들의 경우 더욱 그렇습니다.
아메리카나 / 레트로 맨스웨어에 깊게 관심있는 매니아들은 14-16온스 사이 중량의 데님에 끌리는 경향이 있습니다.
특히 1960년대 이전의 데님의 복각 제품의 경우 13온스보다 가벼운 데님을 발견하는 것은 매우 드뭅니다. 사람마다 데님 두께와 날씨에 따른 반응이 다릅니다. 어떤 사람의 경우 동남 아시아 같은 무더운 여름에 21온스 데님 착용이 문제 없는 사람이 있는가 하면, 어떤 사람은 무조건 반바지를 입어야 하는 사람도 있습니다.
키라쿠 데님은 분명 어드밴스한 데님 마니아를 염두해두고 디자인되었음을 확인할 수 있습니다. 누군가는 데님의 텍스쳐와 편안함의 밸런스를 중점적으로 보는가 하면, 어떤 이는 1년 내내 헤비 데님을 입을 수 있는가 하는 점에 중점을 두기 때문인데요. 제 개인적 의견으로 키라쿠는 “여름에 어떤 데님을 입을까” 고민하는 데님 마니아들을 위해. 최상의 솔루션을 제공했다고 생각합니다.
또한, 키라쿠는 데님 입문자에도 좋은 선택입니다. 헤비한 데님 착용이 불편한 사람들의 경우에 키라쿠를 통해 그 부분을 해소할 수 있습니다. 또한, 데님의 짜임이나 인디고 색상 역시 훌륭합니다. 10온스 데님을 착용하다가 20온스의 시크릿 데님을 착용해보라고 하는 건 무리가 있겠지만 이 키라쿠의 12온스 데님은 데님 입문자가 선택하기에도 아주 좋습니다.
키라쿠의 “가벼운” 데님이 과연 오니의 “무거운” 데님에 필적할 수 있을까요? 오니 데님은 시크릿 데님의 텍스쳐를 유지하면서 데님 무게를 얼마나 낮출 수 있는지 보여주고 싶었습니다. 물론 12온스 데님을 20온스의 데님과 같은 디테일로 제작할 수 없습니다. 하지만 이 키라쿠 데님을 시크릿 데님의 직조 방식을 사용한 12온스 데님이라고 표현하는 것이 가장 좋을 것 같습니다.
천연 인디고 염료는 오니의 쿠로아이, 시크릿 데님 등을 채색한 그린과 대조를 이룹니다. 차분한 오가닉 블루 선택은 언제나 옳습니다. 키라쿠의 인디고 쉐이드는 무더운 여름날 티셔츠와 스니커즈와 쉽게 잘 어울릴 수 있습니다. 키라쿠 데님의 단점을 굳이 찾으라면, 로우 텐션과 느슨한 직조 방식 및 가벼운 무게가 키라쿠 데님의 내구성을 잠재적으로 미칠 가능성이 있다는 점입니다. 데님의 내구성과 관련해 아직 결론을 내릴 수 없지만, 아마 시간이 지나면서 알려주지 않을까요.
참고로 오니 982 컷은 제가 처음 입어보는 건데 지금까지 꽤 만족하며 착용하고 있습니다.
오니 982컷은 타누키의 HT컷과 상당히 유사합니다.
자세히 살펴보면 키라쿠 데님은 타누키 Kaze 데님과 비슷한 점을 찾아볼 수 있습니다.
키라쿠 982 하이 테이퍼드 컷은 제 체형과 정말 잘 맞았습니다.
제 서구형 체형이 가끔 재팬 데님의 컷에 잘 맞지 않을 때가 있었는데 이 키라쿠 902는 오니의 이전 컷을 잘 보완했습니다.
슬림한 체형이 입을 경우 허벅지나 힙 부분이 헐렁해서 몸집이 있는 체형에 더 잘 어울릴 것 같습니다. 또한 982는 모던 아메리카나, 캐주얼웨어와 잘 어울립니다.
키라쿠는 라이트 데님의 새로운 기준을 만들었습니다. 편안함과 텍스쳐의 밸런스 역시 잘 조화되었습니다. 데님 무게는 말할 것도 없이 키라쿠의 장점이고, 천연 인디고로 염색된 데님은 햇빛에 비추어 보면 정말 아름답습니다!
나중에 이 직조 방식으로 제작된 다른 인디고 및 유황 염색을 볼 수 있길 기대해 봅니다.
ONI 키라쿠 982는 23,000 JPY로 판매되고 있습니다. 수년 간의 개발과 노력의 결과물인 점을 고려했을 때 훌륭한 가치를 지니고 있습니다.
오니 데님에서 자신있게 내놓은 키라쿠는 데님 비기너와 콜렉터 모두를 만족시킬 수 있는 제품입니다.
여름용 데님 한 벌을 찾고 계셨다면, 키라쿠는 분명 최고의 추천 상품입니다. 데니미오에서 가격을 확인해 보세요!
이제 ONI 키라쿠 982에 대하여 충분히 아실거라 생각합니다. 이전 포스트에도 ONI 키라쿠 데님에 대한 이야기가 있으니 여길 클릭해서 더 읽어보세요.