ONI has always been the king of textured fabric: Slubby, neppy, fuzzy denim have always been their calling card.
In recent years, ONI has continuously pushed the envelope of what is possible. The secret denim has become a staple item for the textured loving denimhead, and he took things further by introducing interesting dyeing techniques like the AIZUMI, black secret denim, AIZUMI x black secret denim, the NI XX series, the ultimate lightweight KIRAKU and many more. Quite recently, ONI also dug out some amazing deadstock fabrics for shirts and jackets, and developed some really insane non-denim fabrics like a covert twill or a British nep selvedge.
As becomes evident with these few examples, ONI is in full swing but they kept their best fabric for last.
To explain why this one is so special, we need to elaborate a little bit. If you are into Japanese denim, you have probably heard of aizome fabrics and kase dyeing. For these fabrics, the yarn are hand dyed in natural indigo. Since every yarn is made by hand, these fabrics boast with excessive character and a unique blue tone. Since this is done by hand, the dye usually penetrates the core of the yarn, dyeing it all blue and making this one of the most expensive fabrics in the denim world. It is an incredibly rare fabric to begin with, since very few people know how to do it and those who do will not be rushed to compromise on their craft. Thus, it comes at a hefty price and not everyone is able to pay it.
ONI has experimented with KASE dyes in the past but they could not solve the pricing issue. Since the end of the 90s, the master behind the brand thought of a way to make a KASE fabric that would be affordable but still look breathtaking.
After countless failed attempts, we present you his absolute masterpiece: the ONI KASE denim.
You can immediately see that this fabric has texture, insane texture even for ONI’s standards. To achieve this, they use two different slub yearns (number 5 and 6) for the weft and another slub yarn (only number 6) for the weft. The difference between warp and weft makes this fabric looks even heavier than it actually is.
For 16oz, this fabric looks easily like 20+.
The mill that ONI worked with to make this happen, spent countless hours to find the right sizing of the threads and the splitting of yarns. Japanese denim is always a labour of love, but this borders on OCD.
But it’s not just the thickness and variety of the yarn that is worthy of your attention: the dyeing technique is unprecedented and it was ONI’s dream to make something like that, preserving the amazing look of AI but pushing down the cost of fabric to an affordable level. Instead of hand-dyeing processes, the cotton is rope dyed. To achieve this rich variety of blue shades, the master has developed interesting indigo concentrations which will be forever his secret. But looking at that denim, we couldn’t care less about the numbers, it’s a marvellous achievement.
ONI told us that no one but the craftsmen in this mill could make a fabric like this. The man who runs the shuttle loom was speechless when it first meters of fabric came out from the machine.
In an email that the master of ONI sent to us he said, this fabric is his “meido-no-miyage” which means, “a gift he brings to heaven. This fabric is so good, he feels he is ready to go to heaven after achieving this.
We gladly present you the cuts in ONI KASE
As always with ONI, quantities are very limited. We tried to get as much as we can but the truth is that demand has been growing heavily over the last couple of years. Get yourself a pair of KASE, who knows if the master makes another batch before he goes to heaven.
ONI selalu menjadi raja tekstur: Denim slubby, neppy, fuzzy selalu menjadi obsesi mereka.
Dalam beberapa tahun terakhir, ONI terus mendorong teknik mereka untuk membuat denim terbaik. Secret Denim telah menjadi denim utama untuk denimhead yang cinta tekstur, dan ONI memperkenalkan teknik pewarnaan yang menarik seperti AIZUMI, Secret Denim hitam, AIZUMI x Secret Denim hitam, Seri NI XX, KIRAKU ringan terbaik dan banyak lagi. Baru-baru ini, ONI juga mendapatkan kembali beberapa kain deadstock yang luar biasa untuk kemeja dan jaket, dan mengembangkan beberapa kain non-denim yang lain dari biasanya seperti covert twill atau selvedge nep yang mirip baju vintage Inggris.
Terbukti dengan beberapa contoh ini, ONI mempertahankan bahan terbaik mereka.
Untuk menjelaskan mengapa yang satu ini begitu istimewa, kita perlu menjelaskan sedikit. Jika Anda menyukai denim Jepang, Anda mungkin pernah mendengar tentang kain aizome dan pewarnaan kase. Untuk fabrik-fabrik ini, benangnya dicelup tangan dengan indigo alami. Karena setiap benang dibuat dan diwarna dengan tangan, kain ini memiliki karakter extra dan nuansa biru yang unik. Karena ini dilakukan dengan tangan, pewarna biasanya menembus inti benang, mewarnai semuanya biru dan menjadikannya salah satu kain paling mahal di dunia denim. Ini adalah kain yang sangat langka, karena sangat sedikit orang yang tahu bagaimana melakukannya dan mereka yang melakukannya tidak akan terburu-buru dengan keahlian mereka. Dengan demikian, harganya mahal dan tidak semua orang mampu membelinya.
ONI telah bereksperimen dengan pewarna KASE di masa lalu tetapi mereka tidak dapat membuatnya lebih terjangkau. Sejak akhir 90-an, master di balik ONI memikirkan cara untuk membuat kain KASE yang terjangkau tetapi masih terlihat menakjubkan.
Setelah upaya gagal yang tak terhitung jumlahnya, kami menghadirkan karya terbaik: denim ONI KASE.
Anda dapat segera melihat bahwa kain ini memiliki tekstur gila bahkan untuk standar ONI. Untuk mencapai hal ini, mereka menggunakan dua benang slub yang berbeda (nomor 5 dan 6) untuk warp dan benang slub lain (hanya nomor 6) untuk weft. Perbedaan antara warp dan weft membuat kain ini terlihat lebih berat dari aslinya.
Untuk 16 oz, kain ini terlihat seperti berat 20+.
Pabrik tempat ONI bekerja untuk mewujudkan hal ini, menghabiskan waktu berjam-jam untuk menemukan ukuran benang dan pemisahan benang yang tepat. Denim Jepang selalu menghabiskan tenaga banyak, sangat mendetail.
Tapi bukan hanya ketebalan dan variasi benang yang patut Anda perhatikan: teknik pewarnaannya belum pernah dipakai sebelumnya dan itu adalah impian ONI untuk membuat sesuatu seperti itu, mempertahankan tampilan AI yang menakjubkan, tetapi membuat harga lebih terjangkau. Bukan memakai proses pewarnaan tangan, kapasnya yang diwarnai. Untuk mencapai variasi warna biru ini, sang master telah mengembangkan konsentrasi indigo yang menarik yang akan selamanya menjadi rahasia. Tetapi melihat denim ini, itu adalah pencapaian yang luar biasa.
ONI memberi tahu kami bahwa tidak ada seorang pun selain pengrajin di pabrik ini yang dapat membuat kain seperti ini. Ahli yang menjalankan alat tenun shuttle loom pun tidak bisa berkata-kata ketika kain pertama keluar dari mesin.
Dalam email yang dikirimkan oleh master ONI kepada kami, kain ini adalah “meido-no-miyage” yang berarti, “hadiah yang dibawa dari surga. Kain ini sangat bagus, seperti nirwana”.
ONI KASE
Seperti biasa dengan ONI, jumlahnya sangat terbatas. Kami berusaha mendapatkan sebanyak yang kami bisa, tetapi kenyataannya adalah bahwa permintaan telah meningkat pesat selama beberapa tahun terakhir. Dapatkan sendiri jeans KASE!
Oni 又被号称是“织物之王”: 粗犷、纤细、毛感出众的丹宁布一直是他们的特色。
近年来，ONI不断推陈出新。 其中神秘丹宁布在养牛爱好者非常受追捧，主理人Oishi桑在此基础上引入有趣的染色技术创造出了AIZUMI，超黑神秘牛仔布，AIZUMI x黑色秘密牛仔布，XX系列，终极轻质KIRAKU系列等等。
在众多日牛品牌中，不夸张的说Oni是非常特别的一个品牌。 如果您喜欢是日牛爱好者，您可能听说过kase染色。 这种染色纱线用天然靛蓝手工染色的，每条纱线都是手工制作的，再由工人们用手浸湿绳状纱线并多次烘干，超级费事、费料、费工也因此这些织物具有明显的特征和独特的蓝色调。漂亮的很，但手工制作+稀有的面料+复杂的工艺的代价就是提高了制作成本也限制了量产难度，其代价就是离谱的标价，一般牛友负担起来都有困难。
“KASE染色”即为传统的手工染靛蓝纱, 工人们需要用手浸湿绳状纱线并多次烘干。ONI过去曾尝试过这种方法，但无法一直无法解决价格问题。 主理人自90年代末以来就一直尝试寻求最降低这种方法的制作成本屡试屡败，直到这次的ONI KASE系列面世了！
可以明显看出这种织物优越的质地，经线使用6号线，纬线使用5号和6号线拧成的竹节纱线，让面料的细节非常丰富，也因此面料看起来要比实际的重量重的多，实际是16OZ但看着却有着20OZ的细节观感。
为了实现这一目标，ONI与之合作的工厂花费了无数的时间来找到正确的纱线定径和纱线组合方法。 如同制造业强迫症，日复一日的惦记终于出来了成果。
值得注意的是本款使用竹节纱线的粗细和多样性和前所未有的染色技术，ONI的梦想是就是做出这样的产品，既保留惊艳的惊人外观，又将织物的成本降低到正常水平 。为了获得丰富的蓝色调，大师开发了有趣的靛蓝浓度，这将永远是他的秘密。 但是，从牛仔布的角度来看，我们对数字并不在乎，这是一项了不起的成就。
ONI告诉我们，除了这家工厂的工匠之外，没有人能制造这样的织物。 当梭织机从机器中出来第一米时，那个操作织布机的人对此惊艳地说不出话。
在 ONI 的大师发给我们的一封电子邮件中，他说，这块布料是他的“ meido-no-miyage” ，意思是“他带到天堂的礼物”。 这块布料好极了，他觉得自己完成了这件事，便死而无憾了。
这种面料现在有多种裤型可以选择。
我们将这种面料专门用于两个备受追捧的锥形剪裁中：高锥形剪裁和中锥形剪裁。
与往常一样，ONI的数量非常有限。 我们试图得到尽可能多的数量，但事实是，最近几年需求一直在大幅增长。 给自己买一对KASE，谁知道大师在去天堂之前是否又做了一批
ONI has always been the king of textured fabric: Slubby, neppy, fuzzy denim have always been their calling card.
In recent years, ONI has continuously pushed the envelope of what is possible. The secret denim has become a staple item for the textured loving denimhead, and he took things further by introducing interesting dyeing techniques like the AIZUMI, black secret denim, AIZUMI x black secret denim, the NI XX series, the ultimate lightweight KIRAKU and many more. Quite recently, ONI also dug out some amazing deadstock fabrics for shirts and jackets, and developed some really insane non-denim fabrics like a covert twill or a British nep selvedge.
As becomes evident with these few examples, ONI is in full swing but they kept their best fabric for last.
To explain why this one is so special, we need to elaborate a little bit. If you are into Japanese denim, you have probably heard of aizome fabrics and kase dyeing. For these fabrics, the yarn are hand dyed in natural indigo. Since every yarn is made by hand, these fabrics boast with excessive character and a unique blue tone. Since this is done by hand, the dye usually penetrates the core of the yarn, dyeing it all blue and making this one of the most expensive fabrics in the denim world. It is an incredibly rare fabric to begin with, since very few people know how to do it and those who do will not be rushed to compromise on their craft. Thus, it comes at a hefty price and not everyone is able to pay it.
ONI has experimented with KASE dyes in the past but they could not solve the pricing issue. Since the end of the 90s, the master behind the brand thought of a way to make a KASE fabric that would be affordable but still look breathtaking.
After countless failed attempts, we present you his absolute masterpiece: the ONI KASE denim.
You can immediately see that this fabric has texture, insane texture even for ONI’s standards. To achieve this, they use two different slub yearns (number 5 and 6) for the weft and another slub yarn (only number 6) for the weft. The difference between warp and weft makes this fabric looks even heavier than it actually is.
For 16oz, this fabric looks easily like 20+.
The mill that ONI worked with to make this happen, spent countless hours to find the right sizing of the threads and the splitting of yarns. Japanese denim is always a labour of love, but this borders on OCD.
But it’s not just the thickness and variety of the yarn that is worthy of your attention: the dyeing technique is unprecedented and it was ONI’s dream to make something like that, preserving the amazing look of AI but pushing down the cost of fabric to an affordable level. Instead of hand-dyeing processes, the cotton is rope dyed. To achieve this rich variety of blue shades, the master has developed interesting indigo concentrations which will be forever his secret. But looking at that denim, we couldn’t care less about the numbers, it’s a marvellous achievement.
ONI told us that no one but the craftsmen in this mill could make a fabric like this. The man who runs the shuttle loom was speechless when it first meters of fabric came out from the machine.
In an email that the master of ONI sent to us he said, this fabric is his “meido-no-miyage” which means, “a gift he brings to heaven. This fabric is so good, he feels he is ready to go to heaven after achieving this.
We gladly present you the cuts in ONI KASE
As always with ONI, quantities are very limited. We tried to get as much as we can but the truth is that demand has been growing heavily over the last couple of years. Get yourself a pair of KASE, who knows if the master makes another batch before he goes to heaven.
ONI has always been the king of textured fabric: Slubby, neppy, fuzzy denim have always been their calling card.
In recent years, ONI has continuously pushed the envelope of what is possible. The secret denim has become a staple item for the textured loving denimhead, and he took things further by introducing interesting dyeing techniques like the AIZUMI, black secret denim, AIZUMI x black secret denim, the NI XX series, the ultimate lightweight KIRAKU and many more. Quite recently, ONI also dug out some amazing deadstock fabrics for shirts and jackets, and developed some really insane non-denim fabrics like a covert twill or a British nep selvedge.
As becomes evident with these few examples, ONI is in full swing but they kept their best fabric for last.
To explain why this one is so special, we need to elaborate a little bit. If you are into Japanese denim, you have probably heard of aizome fabrics and kase dyeing. For these fabrics, the yarn are hand dyed in natural indigo. Since every yarn is made by hand, these fabrics boast with excessive character and a unique blue tone. Since this is done by hand, the dye usually penetrates the core of the yarn, dyeing it all blue and making this one of the most expensive fabrics in the denim world. It is an incredibly rare fabric to begin with, since very few people know how to do it and those who do will not be rushed to compromise on their craft. Thus, it comes at a hefty price and not everyone is able to pay it.
ONI has experimented with KASE dyes in the past but they could not solve the pricing issue. Since the end of the 90s, the master behind the brand thought of a way to make a KASE fabric that would be affordable but still look breathtaking.
After countless failed attempts, we present you his absolute masterpiece: the ONI KASE denim.
You can immediately see that this fabric has texture, insane texture even for ONI’s standards. To achieve this, they use two different slub yearns (number 5 and 6) for the weft and another slub yarn (only number 6) for the weft. The difference between warp and weft makes this fabric looks even heavier than it actually is.
For 16oz, this fabric looks easily like 20+.
The mill that ONI worked with to make this happen, spent countless hours to find the right sizing of the threads and the splitting of yarns. Japanese denim is always a labour of love, but this borders on OCD.
But it’s not just the thickness and variety of the yarn that is worthy of your attention: the dyeing technique is unprecedented and it was ONI’s dream to make something like that, preserving the amazing look of AI but pushing down the cost of fabric to an affordable level. Instead of hand-dyeing processes, the cotton is rope dyed. To achieve this rich variety of blue shades, the master has developed interesting indigo concentrations which will be forever his secret. But looking at that denim, we couldn’t care less about the numbers, it’s a marvellous achievement.
ONI told us that no one but the craftsmen in this mill could make a fabric like this. The man who runs the shuttle loom was speechless when it first meters of fabric came out from the machine.
In an email that the master of ONI sent to us he said, this fabric is his “meido-no-miyage” which means, “a gift he brings to heaven. This fabric is so good, he feels he is ready to go to heaven after achieving this.
We gladly present you the cuts in ONI KASE
As always with ONI, quantities are very limited. We tried to get as much as we can but the truth is that demand has been growing heavily over the last couple of years. Get yourself a pair of KASE, who knows if the master makes another batch before he goes to heaven.
ONI has always been the king of textured fabric: Slubby, neppy, fuzzy denim have always been their calling card.
In recent years, ONI has continuously pushed the envelope of what is possible. The secret denim has become a staple item for the textured loving denimhead, and he took things further by introducing interesting dyeing techniques like the AIZUMI, black secret denim, AIZUMI x black secret denim, the NI XX series, the ultimate lightweight KIRAKU and many more. Quite recently, ONI also dug out some amazing deadstock fabrics for shirts and jackets, and developed some really insane non-denim fabrics like a covert twill or a British nep selvedge.
As becomes evident with these few examples, ONI is in full swing but they kept their best fabric for last.
To explain why this one is so special, we need to elaborate a little bit. If you are into Japanese denim, you have probably heard of aizome fabrics and kase dyeing. For these fabrics, the yarn are hand dyed in natural indigo. Since every yarn is made by hand, these fabrics boast with excessive character and a unique blue tone. Since this is done by hand, the dye usually penetrates the core of the yarn, dyeing it all blue and making this one of the most expensive fabrics in the denim world. It is an incredibly rare fabric to begin with, since very few people know how to do it and those who do will not be rushed to compromise on their craft. Thus, it comes at a hefty price and not everyone is able to pay it.
ONI has experimented with KASE dyes in the past but they could not solve the pricing issue. Since the end of the 90s, the master behind the brand thought of a way to make a KASE fabric that would be affordable but still look breathtaking.
After countless failed attempts, we present you his absolute masterpiece: the ONI KASE denim.
You can immediately see that this fabric has texture, insane texture even for ONI’s standards. To achieve this, they use two different slub yearns (number 5 and 6) for the weft and another slub yarn (only number 6) for the weft. The difference between warp and weft makes this fabric looks even heavier than it actually is.
For 16oz, this fabric looks easily like 20+.
The mill that ONI worked with to make this happen, spent countless hours to find the right sizing of the threads and the splitting of yarns. Japanese denim is always a labour of love, but this borders on OCD.
But it’s not just the thickness and variety of the yarn that is worthy of your attention: the dyeing technique is unprecedented and it was ONI’s dream to make something like that, preserving the amazing look of AI but pushing down the cost of fabric to an affordable level. Instead of hand-dyeing processes, the cotton is rope dyed. To achieve this rich variety of blue shades, the master has developed interesting indigo concentrations which will be forever his secret. But looking at that denim, we couldn’t care less about the numbers, it’s a marvellous achievement.
ONI told us that no one but the craftsmen in this mill could make a fabric like this. The man who runs the shuttle loom was speechless when it first meters of fabric came out from the machine.
In an email that the master of ONI sent to us he said, this fabric is his “meido-no-miyage” which means, “a gift he brings to heaven. This fabric is so good, he feels he is ready to go to heaven after achieving this.
We gladly present you the cuts in ONI KASE
As always with ONI, quantities are very limited. We tried to get as much as we can but the truth is that demand has been growing heavily over the last couple of years. Get yourself a pair of KASE, who knows if the master makes another batch before he goes to heaven.
ONI has always been the king of textured fabric: Slubby, neppy, fuzzy denim have always been their calling card.
In recent years, ONI has continuously pushed the envelope of what is possible. The secret denim has become a staple item for the textured loving denimhead, and he took things further by introducing interesting dyeing techniques like the AIZUMI, black secret denim, AIZUMI x black secret denim, the NI XX series, the ultimate lightweight KIRAKU and many more. Quite recently, ONI also dug out some amazing deadstock fabrics for shirts and jackets, and developed some really insane non-denim fabrics like a covert twill or a British nep selvedge.
As becomes evident with these few examples, ONI is in full swing but they kept their best fabric for last.
To explain why this one is so special, we need to elaborate a little bit. If you are into Japanese denim, you have probably heard of aizome fabrics and kase dyeing. For these fabrics, the yarn are hand dyed in natural indigo. Since every yarn is made by hand, these fabrics boast with excessive character and a unique blue tone. Since this is done by hand, the dye usually penetrates the core of the yarn, dyeing it all blue and making this one of the most expensive fabrics in the denim world. It is an incredibly rare fabric to begin with, since very few people know how to do it and those who do will not be rushed to compromise on their craft. Thus, it comes at a hefty price and not everyone is able to pay it.
ONI has experimented with KASE dyes in the past but they could not solve the pricing issue. Since the end of the 90s, the master behind the brand thought of a way to make a KASE fabric that would be affordable but still look breathtaking.
After countless failed attempts, we present you his absolute masterpiece: the ONI KASE denim.
You can immediately see that this fabric has texture, insane texture even for ONI’s standards. To achieve this, they use two different slub yearns (number 5 and 6) for the weft and another slub yarn (only number 6) for the weft. The difference between warp and weft makes this fabric looks even heavier than it actually is.
For 16oz, this fabric looks easily like 20+.
The mill that ONI worked with to make this happen, spent countless hours to find the right sizing of the threads and the splitting of yarns. Japanese denim is always a labour of love, but this borders on OCD.
But it’s not just the thickness and variety of the yarn that is worthy of your attention: the dyeing technique is unprecedented and it was ONI’s dream to make something like that, preserving the amazing look of AI but pushing down the cost of fabric to an affordable level. Instead of hand-dyeing processes, the cotton is rope dyed. To achieve this rich variety of blue shades, the master has developed interesting indigo concentrations which will be forever his secret. But looking at that denim, we couldn’t care less about the numbers, it’s a marvellous achievement.
ONI told us that no one but the craftsmen in this mill could make a fabric like this. The man who runs the shuttle loom was speechless when it first meters of fabric came out from the machine.
In an email that the master of ONI sent to us he said, this fabric is his “meido-no-miyage” which means, “a gift he brings to heaven. This fabric is so good, he feels he is ready to go to heaven after achieving this.
We gladly present you the cuts in ONI KASE
As always with ONI, quantities are very limited. We tried to get as much as we can but the truth is that demand has been growing heavily over the last couple of years. Get yourself a pair of KASE, who knows if the master makes another batch before he goes to heaven.
ONI has always been the king of textured fabric: Slubby, neppy, fuzzy denim have always been their calling card.
In recent years, ONI has continuously pushed the envelope of what is possible. The secret denim has become a staple item for the textured loving denimhead, and he took things further by introducing interesting dyeing techniques like the AIZUMI, black secret denim, AIZUMI x black secret denim, the NI XX series, the ultimate lightweight KIRAKU and many more. Quite recently, ONI also dug out some amazing deadstock fabrics for shirts and jackets, and developed some really insane non-denim fabrics like a covert twill or a British nep selvedge.
As becomes evident with these few examples, ONI is in full swing but they kept their best fabric for last.
To explain why this one is so special, we need to elaborate a little bit. If you are into Japanese denim, you have probably heard of aizome fabrics and kase dyeing. For these fabrics, the yarn are hand dyed in natural indigo. Since every yarn is made by hand, these fabrics boast with excessive character and a unique blue tone. Since this is done by hand, the dye usually penetrates the core of the yarn, dyeing it all blue and making this one of the most expensive fabrics in the denim world. It is an incredibly rare fabric to begin with, since very few people know how to do it and those who do will not be rushed to compromise on their craft. Thus, it comes at a hefty price and not everyone is able to pay it.
ONI has experimented with KASE dyes in the past but they could not solve the pricing issue. Since the end of the 90s, the master behind the brand thought of a way to make a KASE fabric that would be affordable but still look breathtaking.
After countless failed attempts, we present you his absolute masterpiece: the ONI KASE denim.
You can immediately see that this fabric has texture, insane texture even for ONI’s standards. To achieve this, they use two different slub yearns (number 5 and 6) for the weft and another slub yarn (only number 6) for the weft. The difference between warp and weft makes this fabric looks even heavier than it actually is.
For 16oz, this fabric looks easily like 20+.
The mill that ONI worked with to make this happen, spent countless hours to find the right sizing of the threads and the splitting of yarns. Japanese denim is always a labour of love, but this borders on OCD.
But it’s not just the thickness and variety of the yarn that is worthy of your attention: the dyeing technique is unprecedented and it was ONI’s dream to make something like that, preserving the amazing look of AI but pushing down the cost of fabric to an affordable level. Instead of hand-dyeing processes, the cotton is rope dyed. To achieve this rich variety of blue shades, the master has developed interesting indigo concentrations which will be forever his secret. But looking at that denim, we couldn’t care less about the numbers, it’s a marvellous achievement.
ONI told us that no one but the craftsmen in this mill could make a fabric like this. The man who runs the shuttle loom was speechless when it first meters of fabric came out from the machine.
In an email that the master of ONI sent to us he said, this fabric is his “meido-no-miyage” which means, “a gift he brings to heaven. This fabric is so good, he feels he is ready to go to heaven after achieving this.
We gladly present you the cuts in ONI KASE
As always with ONI, quantities are very limited. We tried to get as much as we can but the truth is that demand has been growing heavily over the last couple of years. Get yourself a pair of KASE, who knows if the master makes another batch before he goes to heaven.
ONI всегда был королем фактурного денима: slubby, neppy, эксперименты с индиго, всегда были их визитной карточкой.
В последние годы ONI постоянно расширяет возможности. Secret denim стал вожделенной мечтой многих любителей необычного и фартурного денима, но производитель пошёл дальше, экспериментируя с окрашиванием и со временем мы увидели такие виды денима, как AIZUMI, black secret denim, AIZUMI x black secret denim, the NI XX series, непередаваемый лёгкий фактурный KIRAKU и многое другое. Также ONI используют дедсток ткани для производства рубашек и курток, и разрабатывают необычные виды тканей, кроме денима, например, covert twill или British nep selvedge.
Как видно из этих нескольких примеров, ONI имел замечательный потенциал, чтобы сделать настоящий шедевр.
Чтобы объяснить, почему этот вид денима столь необычен, нам нужно немного объяснить. Если вы давно интересуетесь японским денимом, то наверняка слышали о таких видах денима как Aizome и окрашивании Kase. Для этих видов денима нити окрашиваются вручную натуральным индиго. Этот вид окрашивания очень кропотлив и позволяет получить уникальный и необычный цвет с различными оттенками индиго. Так как это ручной способ окрашивания, то нить здесь прокрашивается практически насквозь, кроме того это один из самых дорогостоящих способов окрашивания из существующих в мире. Это невероятно редкий и трудоёмкий вид денима, который к сожалению далеко не каждому может оказаться по карману.
ONI в прошлом экспериментировал с красителями KASE, но они не смогли решить проблему ценообразования. С конца 90-х годов мастер этого бренда придумал способ сделать ткань KASE доступной по цене, но при этом чтобы она выглядела столь же потрясающе.
После многочисленных попыток и экспериментов мы прeдставляем вам замечетальный вид денима, который является настоящим произведением искусства – ONI KASE denim.
Вы можете сами заметить, что этот деним ONI сильно отличается от всего, что вы видели ранее. Чтобы получить такую интересную фактуру используются два разных типа нити для основы (нити номер 5 и 6 с разной толщиной) и совершенно другой тип нитей для утка (только номер 6). Это разница придаёт дениму максимум фактуры и по факту он более плотный, чем 16OZ.
Для кого-то такой деним 16oz, может ощущаться как деним 20OZ
Чтобы получить такой деним ONI, ткацкое производство потратила массу времени на многочисленные пробы и ошибки, пока не был получен этот замечательный материал. Всё это лишний раз доказывает, что производство настоящего кастомизированного японского денима – это путь души и искусства.
Но стоит обратить внимание не только на толщину и разнообразие пряжи: Цвет и техника окрашивания здесь уникальна. ONI давно хотел сделать подобный деним, который бы имел красивый цвет AI (денима, нити которого окрашенного вручную), но с более приемлемой ценой (напомним, что пара джинсов из денима AI обойдется вам около 500 USD). Вместо ручного окрашивания здесь используется классический канатный метод окрашивания. Чтобы получить различные оттенки индиго этого денима, мастер, занимавшийся окрашиванием использовал различные виды концентрации красителя и различное время высыхания нити. Более подробная информация является секретом.
ONI говорит, что никто, кроме мастерова на данной фабрике до сих пор не делал такой деним. Мастер, который управлял челночным станком потерял дар речи от восторга, когда он увидел первые метры нового готового денима!
В электронном письме, которое нам прислал мастер ONI, он сказал, что этот деним можно назвать “meido-no-miyage”, что означает «дар, который он преподносит небесам”. Настолько хорош этот деним!
Джинсы в этом дениме доступны в нескольких видах фасонов
Мы рады представить вам следующие модели:
Как всегда с ONI, количество пар очень ограничено. Мы пытались получить как можно больше, но правда в том, что за последние пару лет спрос на этот бренд сильно возрос. Пожалуй тем, кто ценит по-настоящему уникальный деним, стоит приобрести джинсы из денима KASE. Кто знает, успеет ли ещё этот мастер создать подобный деним, прежде, чем отправится на небеса.
ONI ถือได้ว่าเป็นเทพแห่งเท็กเจอร์ผ้ายีนส์ ไม่ว่าจะเป็นผ้ายีนส์แนวหยาบแบบ Slubby ผ้ารอยขุยจากยีนส์ แบบ neppy หรือแบบเท็กเจอร์ไม่เรียบ ลุคที่ดิบ ๆ
เหล่านี้เป็นสิ่งที่ดึงดูดใจคอยีนส์ทั้งหลายมาโดยตลอด เมื่อไม่กี่ปีที่ผ่านมา ONI เองได้ปล่อยคอลเลคชั่นผ้ายีนส์แหวกแนวมาแล้วมากมาย อาทิเช่น ซีเคร็ทเดนิม secret denim ได้กลายเป็นสินค้ายอดนิยมในหมู่คอยีนส์ที่ชื่นชอบเนื้อผ้าดังกล่าว จากนั้นทางแบรนด์ก็ได้พัฒนาเนื้อผ้าไปอีกขั้นด้วยการนำเทคนิคการย้อมที่น่าสนใจมาใช้ เช่น ผ้ารุ่นไอซูมิ AIZUMI, ผ้ารุ่นแบลคซีเคร็ทเดนิม Black secret denim, ผ้ารุ่นไอซูมิผสมแบลคซีเคร็ทเดนิม AIZUMI x black secret denim,ผ้าซีรีส์ XX, ผ้ายีนส์เนื้อเบาคิรากุ KIRAKUและผ้าแบบอื่น ๆ อีกมากมาย เมื่อไม่นานมานี้ ONI ก็ได้ขุดกรุผ้ามาผลิตเป็นแจ็กเก็ตและเสื้อเชิ้ตสุดลิมิเต็ด นอกจากนี้ยังพัฒนาการผลิตผ้าที่ไม่ใช่เดนิมด้วย คือ โคเวิร์ททวิล หรือ ผ้าแนว nep สไตล์อังกฤษ
หลักฐานที่การันตีความเป็นสุดยอดด้านเนื้อผ้าของ ONI
ทีนี้เรามาทำความเข้าใจพร้อมกันว่าทำไมผ้า Kase จึงมีความพิเศษมากซึ่งเราขออธิบายให้ฟังสักหน่อย หากคุณเป็นคนที่เล่นยีนส์ญี่ปุ่นอยู่แล้ว คุณอาจเคยได้ยินเรื่องของผ้าไอโซเมะและการย้อมสีคาเซะมาบ้าง สำหรับผ้าเหล่านี้เส้นด้ายจะย้อมด้วยมือโดยใช้สีครามธรรมชาติ เนื่องจากเส้นด้ายทุกชิ้นทำด้วยมือ ผ้าเหล่านี้จึงมีความโดดเด่นและมีโทนสีฟ้าที่เป็นเอกลักษณ์ และด้วยขั้นตอนการทำด้วยมือนี้เอง สีย้อมจะแทรกซึมเข้าไปในแกนเส้นด้ายทั้งหมดให้เป็นสีฟ้า ทำให้ผ้าประเภทนี้มีราคาแพงที่สุดในโลกยีนส์ ผ้านี้เป็นผ้าที่หาได้ยาก เพราะน้อยคนที่จะรู้วิธีการผลิตอย่างประณีตซึ่งเป็นงานคราฟท์นั่นเอง ดังนั้นคนที่เล่นผ้ายีนส์ชนิดนี้ต้องทมีกำลังซื้อในระดับหนึ่งก็ว่าได้
ก่อนหน้านี้ทางแบรนด์ ONI เคยทดลองผ้ายีนส์ด้วยการย้อมสีคาเสะมาแล้ว แต่ก็สู้กับปัญหาต้นทุนที่สูงที่ผู้ซื้อต้องแบกรับเรื่องราคาสินค้าไม่ไหว ในช่วงปลายยุค 90 ผู้อยู่เบื้องหลังแบรนด์ได้พยายามผลิตผ้า KASE ในราคาที่จับต้องได้ แต่ก็ยังไม่เวิร์คเท่าที่คิดไว้
หลังความพยายามไม่เป็นผลซ้ำแล้วซ้ำเล่า ในที่สุดเราก็ได้นำเดนิม ONI KASE มาสู่สายตาคอยีนส์ทั้งหลายสักที
หากสังเกตใกล้ ๆ คุณจะทึ่งในเนื้อผ้าซึ่งเป็นเรื่องสแตนดาร์ดของ ONI ผ้าชนิดนี้ผลิตด้วยด้ายทอแบบหยาบที่ต่างกันสองชนิด คือ ตัวด้ายพุ่งใช้ด้ายเบอร์ 5 และเบอร์ 6 ส่วนด้ายยืนจะใช้ด้ายเบอร์ 6 เท่านั้น ความแตกต่างระหว่างด้ายพุ่งและด้ายยืนนี่เองที่ทำให้ผ้ายีนส์รุ่นนี้ดูเหมือนผ้า 20 ออนซ์ขึ้นไป
ในความเป็นจริงผ้าหนักเพียง 16 ออนซ์เท่านั้น
โรงงานทอผ้ากับแบรนด์ ONI ทำงานร่วมกันจนได้ผ้ารุ่นพิเศษนี้ ผ่านการใช้เวลายาวนานในการคำนวณขนาดและอัตราการคายตัวของเส้นด้าย ยีนส์ญี่ปุ่นส่วนใหญ่ผ่านขั้นตอนการผลิตด้วยความรัก ความทุ่มเทและใส่ใจในรายละเอียดขั้นสูงสุด
ไม่เพียงแค่รายละเอียดเรื่องความหนาและชนิดของเนื้อผ้าเท่านั้นที่ดึงความสนใจจากคุณได้ เรื่องเทคนิคการย้อมสีที่ไม่เคยมีใครทำมาก่อนก็เป็นอีกสิ่งที่คุณหาได้ในแบรนด์ ONI ที่โดดเด่นด้วยสีย้อม AI ในราคาเป็นมิตร โดยใช้การย้อมเชือกฝ้ายแทนการย้อมด้วยมือแบบดั้งเดิม และเพื่อให้ได้โทนสีฟ้าที่สวยตามต้องการ ผู้ผลิตจึงได้นำสีอินดิโก้เข้มข้นมาใช้เป็นผ้าซีเคร็ท เราอยากให้คุณดูที่ผ้าเดนิมในภาพซึ่งเป็นเดนิมที่นำความสำเร็จอย่างท่วมท้นมาสู่แบรนด์ ONI
แบรนด์ ONI บอกผ่านเรามาว่า ไม่มีใครผลิตผ้าอย่างแบรนด์ ONI ได้แล้ว เพราะช่างที่ชำนาญอยู่ในโรงงานทอผ้าของแบรนด์เท่านั้น ช่างผู้บรรจงขับเคลื่อนเครื่องทอจนรังสรรค์ผ้ายีนส์ที่มีเอกลักษณ์ออกมาแต่ละเมตร
ในอีเมลที่ผู้ผลิตจากแบรนด์ ONI ส่งถึงเรา เขากล่าวว่า ผ้าชนิดนี้ คือ “meido-no-miyage” หมายถึง “a gift he brings to heaven” หรือของขวัญชิ้นพิเศษสู่สวรรค์ ให้ความรู้สึกเชิงเปรียบเปรยชนิดที่ว่า หากได้ใส่แล้วเหมือนตายตาหลับ
ในด้านการตัดเย็บมีทรงดีไซน์ต่าง ๆ ดังต่อไปนี้
เราภูมิใจนำเสนอ
และอย่างที่เราทราบกันว่า แบรนด์ ONI มักผลิตยีนส์ออกมาในปริมาณจำกัด ในขณะที่ความต้องการสั่งซื้อจากคอยีนส์เพิ่มมากขึ้นตั้งแต่ช่วงสองปีที่ผ่านมา ดังนั้นอย่ามัวรอช้า รีบจัดยีนส์ KASE สักตัว เพราะเราไม่อาจทราบได้ว่า ONI จะผลิตยีนส์รุ่นพิเศษออกมาอีกหรือไม่
ONI selalu menjadi raja kain bertekstur: Denim slubby, neppy, fuzzy selalu menjadi khas mereka.
Dalam beberapa tahun kebelakangan ini, ONI secara berterusan membuat revolusi. Secret Denim telah menjadi bdenim utama untuk denim yang bertekstur, dan dia memperkenalkan teknik pencelupan menarik seperti AIZUMI, Secret Denim hitam, Secret Denim hitam x AIZUMI, siri NI XX, KIRAKU ringan terunggul dan banyak lagi . Baru-baru ini, ONI juga menggali beberapa fabrik deadstock yang luar biasa untuk kemeja dan jaket, dan mengembangkan beberapa fabrik non-denim yang benar-benar gila seperti Covert Twill dan British Nep Selvedge.
Seperti yang terbukti dengan beberapa contoh ini, ONI menyimpan kain terbaik mereka untuk terakhir.
Untuk menjelaskan mengapa ini sangat istimewa, kita perlu menghuraikan sedikit. Sekiranya Anda menyukai denim Jepun, Anda mungkin pernah mendengar tentang kain Aizome dan pewarnaan Kase. Untuk fabrik ini, benang dicelup tangan dengan warna asli indigo. Oleh kerana setiap benang dibuat dengan tangan, kain ini mempunyai tekstur yang berlebihan dan nada biru yang unik. Oleh kerana ini dilakukan dengan tangan, pewarna biasanya menembusi inti benang, mewarnai semuanya dengan warna biru dan menjadikannya salah satu kain paling mahal di dunia denim. Ini adalah kain yang sangat jarang, kerana sangat sedikit orang yang tahu bagaimana melakukannya dan mereka yang tidak akan tergesa-gesa pada kerajinan mereka. Oleh itu, harganya tinggi dan tidak semua orang mampu membeli.
ONI telah bereksperimen dengan pewarna KASE pada masa lalu tetapi mereka tidak dapat menjadikan harganya lebih murah. Sejak akhir tahun 90-an, master di sebalik jenama itu memikirkan cara untuk membuat kain KASE yang berpatutan tetapi tetap kelihatan menakjubkan.
Setelah percubaan gagal yang tidak terkira banyaknya, kami mempersembahkan karya agungnya: denim ONI KASE.
Anda dapat dengan segera melihat bahawa kain ini mempunyai tekstur, tekstur yang tidak waras walaupun mengikut standard ONI. Untuk mencapainya, mereka menggunakan dua benang slub yang berbeza (nombor 5 dan 6) untuk warp dan benang slub yang lain (hanya nombor 6) untuk weft. Perbezaan antara warp dan weft menjadikan kain ini kelihatan lebih berat daripada yang sebenarnya.
Untuk 16oz, kain ini kelihatan seperti berat 20+.
Kilang yang bekerja dengan ONI untuk mewujudkannya, menghabiskan berjam-jam untuk mencari ukuran benang dan pemisahan benang yang betul. Denim Jepun selalu dibuat dengan tenaga besar, tetapi ini sangat sempurna.
Tetapi bukan hanya ketebalan dan kepelbagaian benang yang patut Anda perhatikan: teknik pencelupan belum pernah terjadi sebelumnya dan impian ONI untuk membuat sesuatu seperti itu, mengekalkan penampilan AI yang luar biasa tetapi menurunkan harga kain ke harga yang berpatutan. Daripada proses pencelupan tangan, kapas adalah yang dicelup indigo. Untuk mencapai pelbagai warna biru ini, master telah mengembangkan kepekatan indigo yang menarik yang akan menjadi rahsianya selamanya. Tetapi melihat denim ini adalah pencapaian yang luar biasa.
ONI memberitahu kami bahawa tidak ada seorang pun kecuali tukang di kilang ini yang boleh membuat kain seperti ini. Tukang yang mengendalikan alat tenun shuttle-loom itu tidak bersuara ketika kain pertama keluar dari mesin.
Dalam e-mel yang dihantar oleh master ONI kepada kami, dia berkata, kain ini adalah “meido-no-miyage” miliknya yang bermaksud, “hadiah yang dia dari syurga”. Kain ini sangat bagus, dia merasa dia sudah bersedia untuk pergi ke syurga.
ONI KASE, dapatkan disini
Seperti biasa dengan ONI, kuantiti sangat terhad. Kami berusaha mendapatkan sebanyak mungkin tetapi permintaan telah meningkat dengan pesat sejak beberapa tahun terakhir. Dapatkan jins KASE!
Leave a Reply