[:en]Selvedge color – The Stories That Come in The Weave[:id]Warna Selvedge – cerita penenunan denim[:zh]布边颜色- 一个与棉布制成有关的故事[:de]Selvedge color – The Stories That Come in The Weave[:es]Selvedge color – The Stories That Come in The Weave[:fr]Selvedge color – The Stories That Come in The Weave[:it]Selvedge color – The Stories That Come in The Weave[:pt]Selvedge color – The Stories That Come in The Weave[:ru]Цвет кромки – рассказы, которые приходят в переплетения[:th]สีของริมผ้า- เรื่องราวที่เกิดขึ้นตั้งแต่ตอนทอ[:ms]Warna Selvedge – Kisah Penenunan Denim[:ko]셀비지 컬러 – 직조에서 나오는 이야기[:]

[:en]Currently, jeans from raw selvedge denim are very popular. The colored thread woven into the edge is a kind of “identification mark”, indicating the quality of the jeans and the traditional approach to their production.

We all know (probably) that now the fashion for such jeans has covered almost the whole world and selvedge denim jeans are made by almost all manufacturers from really very serious Japanese companies that emphasize the highest quality of the product. Alas, the quality of these jeans will be completely different and even though with the use of selvedge-denim, they will not be able to automatically equate the mass-market product with high-quality Japanese jeans, produced with a painstaking “handicraft” approach.

In today’s article, we will talk about real quality jeans, manufacturers who value their product and value their reputation.

Talking about production, a piece of info to keep in mind is that shuttle-type machines can weave only a very narrow strip of denim. The edge left at the actual edges was not required to be cut and specially treated with an overlock (as is done in modern mass production). In the old days, on the external seam, there was simply an uncut edge of the Selvedge, which has now become popular due to its special characteristics.

A colored thread woven into the edge of the roll of denim was the main way to distinguish which particular manufacturer the denim was intended for. For Levi’s, it was a red or rather pink thread, for Lee – blue, for Wrangler, an orange thread was woven into the edge of the roll.

Currently, Japanese manufacturers are not so much trying to replicate the American classics (although, of course, classical repro-jeans have not disappeared at all and are still available). This also applies to a thread woven into the edge, which can often carry a certain semantic message.

Oni Denim

Oni always emphasizes the denim itself, its unique texture, its coloring methods and its beautiful fading. Oni also uses a different colored thread, woven into the Selvedge.
Here are some examples:

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

NXX denim from Oni has been released relatively recently, the main difference being a slightly higher density, 17OZ. A characteristic for such denim is that they are very dense, of a dark saturated indigo color and the texture expressed in small vertical “stripes”. A bright red thread is woven into a bright white selvedge. For those who prefer to wear jeans tucked up, it will look very impressive and beautiful, the white and red colors strongly contrasting with the dark indigo. At the same time, the red thread is the most classic and easily recognizable of all.

 

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

Famous Kabuki denim from Oni, one of the most time-consuming types of denim from this manufacturer. In addition to a very high density, this denim is also stained with natural dyes based on the leaves of the indigo plant. The name of Kabuki is also not accidental. Woven in the selvage threads of black, orange and green colors mirror the color of the curtain in the classical Japanese theater Kabuki, making it a very special tribute indeed.

 

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

DGC (Dark Green Cast) denim from Oni has a very interesting color with a greenish tinge. This color is achieved by adding sulphides to the dye. In the Selvedge, a pink thread is woven here, as on some old vintage jeans.

ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI DENIM ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED [PRE-ORDER] STOCK DATE: OCT.31
Finally, the newest denim, ultra slubby Secret denim in a completely black color. In fact, this denim is not as simple as it seems. The weft thread is intentionally colored with a more persistent dye, so that, as fading occurs, it appears through more contrasting black inclusions. The edge-Selvedge itself also has a bright red-white color, which looks very impressive on a black background.

Samurai Jeans

Most of the models from this jeans brand possess an inexpressible charisma and charm, thanks to the use of a very dense hard denim and many interesting details, some of which are the legacy of American jeans classics, and some are completely original details from Japanese culture.

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX19OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT SELVAGE DENIM

The classic and most famous 710th model of Samurai jeans. These jeans are stern and reliable, like the character and spirit of the ancient Japanese warrior and are as durable as the blade of a sword. That is why the distinguishing feature of most classic models of Samurai jeans is a silver thread woven into the silvery fabric. It symbolizes the sharpness and strength of the samurai sword.

 

SAMURAI JEANS
S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

More density?!  Here comes a version of 24OZ denim. It differs in a even more texture and soft, fuzzy denim with a less pronounced slub than the classic 19OZ model. Here in selvedge it weaves a red and silver thread, perhaps symbolizing a blade covered in blood.

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

Very interesting and, perhaps, not quite the most typical model of jeans from Samurai- at the heart of it lie the old Lee jeans design. Here we use left-handed weaving of denim (LHT) and a lighter shade of indigo. As historically done in Lee, a blue thread is woven into the mudflow slug.

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro is also one of the most famous manufacturers of Japanese jeans. Unlike the aforementioned Samurai, these jeans usually have an average density and a smooth texture. In detail, elements can be traced to one extent or another symbolizing the peach, which is the symbol of the brand.

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

One of the most famous and popular models from the Vintage Label series. The series features a very dark indigo color and the most classic details that mimic the old vintage jeans. In the Selvedge, a pink thread is woven, which symbolizes the peach.

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

These jeans are the fruit of the cooperation of Momotaro jeans and our store Denimio. This model contains some details that are not typical of this brand. For example, in the selvedge it is not a pink thread, but a thread of olive color.

TCB

If you are drawn to old vintage jeans that resemble closely the old-timer Levi’s, then you probably will be interested in the products of this small brand. Despite the fact that the company TCB has existed for not so long, their jeans are distinguished by a very sensitive approach to production expressed in the selection of denim and details closest to the jeans of the 50’s or 60’s.

TCB JEANS
50’S

TCB JEANS
50’S

For the production of this model, long-fiber Zimbabwe cotton and a rather dark shade of indigo are used to make the model closer to the old 50s jeans. In the Selvedge is woven a light pink thread, almost the same as that found on still preserved vintage jeans from that period.

TCB JEANS 60’S

TCB JEANS 60’S

These jeans are distinguished by a slightly lighter shade of denim, close to the jeans of the 60’s. It is tied with such a denim of American cotton from the San Joaquin plantation. A classic pink thread is also woven into the selvedge.

Selvedge is the most noticeable and traditional detail of classical denim and manufacturers will always try to make a certain emphasis on this detail.As we see, in addition to denim and Selvedge with a thread of cotton threaded into it, Japanese jeans have even more different details and nuances from which, in the end, the same unique Japanese quality is built and weaved into the many making of denim-manufacturing.[:id] 

Kini, jeans yang terbuat dari raw selvedge denim sangatlah populer. Benang berwarna ditenun sebagai “simbol identitas”, menampilkan kualitas jeans dan proses produksi tradisional.

Setiap dari kita (mungkin saja) mengetahui bahwa fashion jeans telah berkembang di seluruh dunia dan jeans selvedge denim diproduksi oleh hampir seluruh pabrik perusahaan Jepang yang ternama dimana mereka mengutamakan kualitas tertinggi produk. Kualitas jeans ini akan sepenuhnya berbeda walaupun jeans ini merupakan selvedge-denim. Mereka tidak dihasilkan seperti halnya kebanyakan produk umum lainnya dimana jeans Jepang ini memiliki kualitas tinggi dan diproduksi melalui berbagai proses “kerajinan” yang rumit.

Pada artikel hari ini, kami akan mendiskusikan jeans berkualitas yang diproduksi oleh pabrik ternama dengan reputasi terbaik.

Berbicara mengenai proses produksi, informasi penting yang perlu diingat yaitu mesin tipe shuttle hanya dapat menenun strip denim yang sangat sempit. Bagian tepi denim tidak perlu dipotong dan dirawat dengan elemen overlock (seperti produksi umum denim modern). Pada era sebelumnya, bagian eksternal seam, menghadirkan tepi yang tidak terpotong dari bagian Selvedge, dimana kini menjadi populer dengan karakteristik spesial ini.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Benang yang telah diwarnai ditenun pada tepi gulungan denim yang membedakan hasil produksi denim dari pabrik denim tertentu. Untuk Levi’s, benang berwarna merah ataupun pink, untuk Lee – biru dan Wrangler, benang jingga ditenun ke bagian tepi gulungan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kini, pabrik Jepang tidak lagi mencoba mengimitasi model klasik Amerika (walaupun, tentu saja, jeans repro klasik belum hilang dan masih tersedia ). Ia juga menghadirkan benang yang ditenun pada bagian tepi.

Oni Denim

Oni selalu mengutamakan kualitas denim, dengan tekstur unik, metode pewarnaan yang rumit dengan hasil fading yang indah. Oni juga menggunakan benang dengan warna berbeda yang ditenun ke bagian Selvedge.
Anda dapat menyaksikan contoh sebagai berikut:

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NXX denim dari Oni kini telah dirilis, perbedaan utama denim ini yaitu bobot yang lebih berat, 17OZ. Karakter denim ini yaitu bobot, warna indigo gelap yang padat dan tekstur yang mengekspresikan motif “belang” vertikal kecil. Benang berwarna merah terang ditenun ke selvedge putih terang. Untuk Anda yang menyukai pengenaan jeans tucked up, denim ini akan mengesankan Anda dengan tampilan indah benang putih dan merah yang tampil kontras dengan warna indigo gelap. Pada saat yang sama, benang merah merupakan elemen yang paling klasik dan mudah dikenali.

 

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Denim Kabuki terkenal ini dipersembahkan oleh Oni, merupakan salah satu tipe denim yang memerlukan banyak waktu dalam proses produksi pabrik. Selain merupakan denim yang berbobot, denim ini juga diwarnai dengan warna alami yang didapatkan dari daun tanaman berwarna indigo. Kepopuleran nama Kabuki juga memiliki alasan pasti. Ditenun dengan benang selvage berwarna hitam, jingga dan hijau, denim ini menampilkan warna gorden pada teater klasik Jepang Kabuki, mewujudkan karakteristik spesial denim ini.

 

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Denim DGC (Dark Green Cast) dari Oni memiliki warna menarik dengan nada kehijauan. Warna ini bisa didapatkan dengan menambahkan zat sulfida ke dalam pewarnaan. Pada bagian Selvedge, benang berwarna pink ditenun, yang juga tampil pada beberapa jeans old vintage.

 

ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI DENIM ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED [PRE-ORDER] STOCK DATE: OCT.31

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pada akhirnya, denim terbaru, ultra slubby Secret denim memiliki warna hitam yang sempurna. Pada kenyataannya, denim ini tidak sesederhana tampilannya. Benang weft thread denim ini secara sengaja diwarnai dengan warna yang lebih persisten, jadi apabila fading dihasilkan, ia akan menyertakan tampilan warna hitam yang lebih kontras. Bagian tepi Selvedge juga memiliki warna merah-putih terang, yang tampil mengesankan dengan latar belakang hitam.

Samurai Jeans

Kebanyakan model merek jeans ini memiliki karisma dan daya tarik yang tidak dapat dijelaskan dengan kata-kata, berkat denim kokoh yang padat dan detail menarik lainnya, beberapa di antaranya merupakan warisan klasik jins Amerika, dan beberapa yang lainnya merupakan dari budaya asli Jepang.

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX19OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT SELVAGE DENIM

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Model 710th Samurai jeans merupakan jeans klasik dan paling terkenal. Jins ini kokoh dan dapat diandalkan, seperti karakter dan semangat prajurit Jepang kuno dan tahan lama seperti pedang. Itulah sebabnya ciri khas model paling klasik Samurai jeans yaitu benang perak yang ditenun kepada kain perak. Ia melambangkan ketajaman dan kekuatan pedang samurai.

SAMURAI JEANS
S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bobot lebih ?! Inilah versi denim 24OZ. Ia berbeda dalam tekstur dan kelembutan, denim dengan slub yang kurang jelas daripada model klasik 19OZ. Di selvedge denim, ia menghadirkan benang merah dan perak, melambangkan pisau dengan darah.

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sangat menarik dan mungkin saja, bukan model jeans biasa dari Samurai- ia memiliki desain Lee jeans kuno. Disini, denim menggunakan teknik penenunan left-handed weaving (LHT) dan dengan nada indigo ringan. Dalam sejarah produksi denim Lee, benang biru ditenun ke dalam mudflow slug.

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro juga merupakan pabrik jeans Jepang yang paling terkenal. Berbeda dari Samurai, jeans ini biasanya memiliki bobot sedang dengan tekstur halus. Secara mendetail, elemen tersebut dapat disimak dengan simbol buah peach, yang merupakan simbol utama merek jeans ini.

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salah satu model paling terkenal dan populer dari seri Vintage Label. Seri ini memfiturkan warna indigo gelap dan detail paling klasik yang mengikuti desain jeans vintage kuno. Pada Selvedge, benang pink ditenun, yang melambangkan buah peach.

 

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jeans ini merupakan hasil kolaborasi Momotaro jeans dan Denimio. Model ini memiliki beberapa details yang tidak biasa pada merek ini. Sebagai contoh, pada bagian selvedge benang pink tidak digunakan, namun benang berwarna olive.

 

TCB

Apabila Anda menyukai jeans vintage kuno yang menggambarkan model kuno Levi’s, Anda mungkin tertarik dengan produk merek ini. Walaupun perusahaan TCB didirikan tidak terlalu lama, produksi jeans menggunakan proses sensitif dari seleksi denim dan detail yang mendekati jeans dari tahun 50’an ataupun 60’an.

 

TCB JEANS
50’S

TCB JEANS
50’S

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dalam produksi model jeans ini, kapas Zimbabwe berserat panjang dan nada gelap indigo digunakan untuk memiripkan model mendekati model jeans 50s kuno. Pada bagian Selvedge benang pink terang digunakan, hampir sama dengan jeans vintage asli dari era tersebut.

 

TCB JEANS 60’S

TCB JEANS 60’S

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jeans ini dibedakan dengan nada denim yang sedikit lebih terang, mendekati model jeans tahun 60’an. Ia diproduksi dengan denim dari kapas Amerika dari perkebunan San Joaquin. Benang klasik berwarna pink juga ditenun pada bagian selvedge.

 

Selvedge merupakan detail jelas dan tradisional dari denim klasik dimana para pabrik selalu ingin menekankan desain detail ini. Seperti yang kita lihat, selain denim dan Selvedge dengan kapas tenun, jeans Jepang memiliki detail dan nuansa yang berbeda dimana kualitas unik produksi Jepang dibina dan ditenun dalam berbagai proses produksi denim.[:zh] 

目前,牛仔裤的原始布边是非常流行的,尤其是有著不同颜色的车缝线成了一种「认证标示」,象徵的牛仔裤的品质和他制作的历程。

我们可能都知道,现代时尚圈单宁、牛仔的元素在全世界是非常重要的,而且几乎都是由日本严谨的厂家所制作。如此一来,牛仔裤品质所使用的原牛与布边的细节呈现,就成了非常重要的指标。大量制造的情况下是没有办法呈现布边的细腻度,这必须是在强烈要求「手工』的方法下才有办法显示。

今天的文章,我们会讨论几个高品质的牛仔裤,厂家把商品本身就看做是自己的信誉,如此庄重严谨。

说到生产,请记住制作布面的Shuttle-type机器,只能织成非常窄的不料,于是接缝处不一定需要裁剪或是特别需要缝合(大量制造就会出现裁减与接合)。过去,如果是外缝线厂家多会保留布边,也就是现在很流行的「耳」,布边。

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

使用有颜色的缝线车上一捆牛仔布,是主要判别原牛制作厂家的方式之一。像是Levi’s就喜欢用红色或是粉红色,Lee则是蓝色,Wrangler使用橘色。

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

演变至今,日本厂家已经避免复刻美国牛仔裤的元素,要走出自己的路(当然还是可以在复刻款式上看见相同意义的元素)这样说来,其实编织与布边的成形,多少带有一点语意学的效果。

Oni Denim

Oni 一向很强调布料本身,特殊的质感、染布技术和美丽的落色,Oni 也采用自己的颜色车缝布边,以下几个例子 :

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OniNXX单宁系列已经上市一段时间了,主要的差别在于磅数高了些,17oz。这种单宁密度相当高、使用深色的Indigo染料,质感可以落色呈现垂直的样貌。亮红色的缝线包覆著白色缝线,对有习惯把裤管卷上的人,这真的令人印象深刻而且非常美丽。白红相间衬托深靛蓝色的裤子。同质,红色布边是最明显且好辨认的原牛细节。
ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oni的Kabuki单宁布,号称是Oni自己最耗时间制作的单宁布之一,不只密度高,单宁本身采用Indigo天然植物染色。取名Kabuki绝对不是浪得虚名,黑色、橘色、绿色相互应的颜色,就和日本传统戏院Kabuki一样,非常值得收藏的款式。

 

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oni DGC (Dark Green Cast) 系列有著很有趣的,篇绿的偏光色,这个颜色的来由是厂家在染制时添加了Sulphides,布边则是使用粉红色的,和复刻款的牛仔裤相同。

 

ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI DENIM ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED [PRE-ORDER] STOCK DATE: OCT.31

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

最后,最新款的裤子,格外宽版的秘密布料单宁,是个完全黑色的款式。事实上,这没有想像中的简单,经线必须要历经最能持久的染制技术与颜料,所以当落色发生时,裤子才能漂亮的呈现对比度,美感跳跃。此款布边采用亮红色与白色相间,和黑色的布面衬托,非常有型。

 

Samurai Jeans

对此品牌的卡里司马特色和迷人风采绝对不陌生,采用高磅数、硬挺的布面和许多有趣的细节,同时呈现传奇的美国经典牛仔裤款,有的呈现日本文化中原始且充满奥义的元素。

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX19OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT SELVAGE DENIM

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

最经典也最有名的710th Samurai jeans,这款牛仔裤非常耐穿且坚挺,呈现了日本古代武士的精神,这也是为什么大部分Samurai jeans的经典,都会有偏银色的缝线,让有人感觉很像武士刀,一种锐利与充满力量的精神。

 

SAMURAI JEANS
S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

还想要磅数再重一些吗?这里有 24OZ 但与其他不同的是,这款更加触感重且柔软、看的见毛边,和 19OZ 表现不同。布边以红色和银色缝线车成,是要展现刀剑与鲜血的交错,非常具有含意。
SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro是日本非常知名的日牛品牌之一,不像刚才提到的Samurai,这些裤子更加强调舒适度,使用的是一般磅数重的布料。细节上,可以与该品牌的象徵桃子做连结和延伸。

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

复刻款最有名与最受青睐的款式之一,这系列有著非常深Indigo为主要特色,还有强调神似古老牛仔裤的细节。布边采用粉红色缝线,为了表示「桃子」。

 

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

这些裤子在DENIMIO似乎都与桃子脱离不了关系,这款就跳脱该品牌的刻板粉红色布边,用的则是橄榄绿的车缝线。

 

TCB

如果你对于过去Levi’s牛仔裤时代非常执著,你应该会对TCB小品牌的单宁制品感到非常有兴趣。尽管品牌成立时间没有太长,但是他们已经受到大量关注,因为入手门槛低、细节细腻呈现,尤其是商品直接反应年代,像是50’s 60’s.

 

TCB JEANS
50’S

TCB JEANS
50’S

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

生产这款牛仔裤,长纤维的辛巴威棉、偏深阴影的Indigo染式,让款式能更接近50s年代的模样。

 

TCB JEANS 60’S

TCB JEANS 60’S

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

这款裤子有著偏浅的颜色,和60’s. 年代的裤子相当接近,使用著来自San Joaquin 生产的美国棉。经典的粉红色布边紧紧的收合布的边缘。

 

布边现在已经是非常受人瞩目且象徵传统的原牛细节,渐渐开始有的厂家或品牌开始关注布边的制作。日本牛仔裤更多了不同细节与巧思在制作布边,最后日本高品质的布边制作,渐渐的也融入到众多的牛仔厂家必备的技能。[:de]Currently, jeans from raw selvedge denim are very popular. The colored thread woven into the edge is a kind of “identification mark”, indicating the quality of the jeans and the traditional approach to their production.

We all know (probably) that now the fashion for such jeans has covered almost the whole world and selvedge denim jeans are made by almost all manufacturers from really very serious Japanese companies that emphasize the highest quality of the product. Alas, the quality of these jeans will be completely different and even though with the use of selvedge-denim, they will not be able to automatically equate the mass-market product with high-quality Japanese jeans, produced with a painstaking “handicraft” approach.

In today’s article, we will talk about real quality jeans, manufacturers who value their product and value their reputation.

Talking about production, a piece of info to keep in mind is that shuttle-type machines can weave only a very narrow strip of denim. The edge left at the actual edges was not required to be cut and specially treated with an overlock (as is done in modern mass production). In the old days, on the external seam, there was simply an uncut edge of the Selvedge, which has now become popular due to its special characteristics.

A colored thread woven into the edge of the roll of denim was the main way to distinguish which particular manufacturer the denim was intended for. For Levi’s, it was a red or rather pink thread, for Lee – blue, for Wrangler, an orange thread was woven into the edge of the roll.

Currently, Japanese manufacturers are not so much trying to replicate the American classics (although, of course, classical repro-jeans have not disappeared at all and are still available). This also applies to a thread woven into the edge, which can often carry a certain semantic message.

Oni Denim

Oni always emphasizes the denim itself, its unique texture, its coloring methods and its beautiful fading. Oni also uses a different colored thread, woven into the Selvedge.
Here are some examples:

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

NXX denim from Oni has been released relatively recently, the main difference being a slightly higher density, 17OZ. A characteristic for such denim is that they are very dense, of a dark saturated indigo color and the texture expressed in small vertical “stripes”. A bright red thread is woven into a bright white selvedge. For those who prefer to wear jeans tucked up, it will look very impressive and beautiful, the white and red colors strongly contrasting with the dark indigo. At the same time, the red thread is the most classic and easily recognizable of all.

 

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

Famous Kabuki denim from Oni, one of the most time-consuming types of denim from this manufacturer. In addition to a very high density, this denim is also stained with natural dyes based on the leaves of the indigo plant. The name of Kabuki is also not accidental. Woven in the selvage threads of black, orange and green colors mirror the color of the curtain in the classical Japanese theater Kabuki, making it a very special tribute indeed.

 

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

DGC (Dark Green Cast) denim from Oni has a very interesting color with a greenish tinge. This color is achieved by adding sulphides to the dye. In the Selvedge, a pink thread is woven here, as on some old vintage jeans.

ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI DENIM ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED [PRE-ORDER] STOCK DATE: OCT.31
Finally, the newest denim, ultra slubby Secret denim in a completely black color. In fact, this denim is not as simple as it seems. The weft thread is intentionally colored with a more persistent dye, so that, as fading occurs, it appears through more contrasting black inclusions. The edge-Selvedge itself also has a bright red-white color, which looks very impressive on a black background.

Samurai Jeans

Most of the models from this jeans brand possess an inexpressible charisma and charm, thanks to the use of a very dense hard denim and many interesting details, some of which are the legacy of American jeans classics, and some are completely original details from Japanese culture.

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX19OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT SELVAGE DENIM

The classic and most famous 710th model of Samurai jeans. These jeans are stern and reliable, like the character and spirit of the ancient Japanese warrior and are as durable as the blade of a sword. That is why the distinguishing feature of most classic models of Samurai jeans is a silver thread woven into the silvery fabric. It symbolizes the sharpness and strength of the samurai sword.

 

SAMURAI JEANS
S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

More density?!  Here comes a version of 24OZ denim. It differs in a even more texture and soft, fuzzy denim with a less pronounced slub than the classic 19OZ model. Here in selvedge it weaves a red and silver thread, perhaps symbolizing a blade covered in blood.

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

Very interesting and, perhaps, not quite the most typical model of jeans from Samurai- at the heart of it lie the old Lee jeans design. Here we use left-handed weaving of denim (LHT) and a lighter shade of indigo. As historically done in Lee, a blue thread is woven into the mudflow slug.

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro is also one of the most famous manufacturers of Japanese jeans. Unlike the aforementioned Samurai, these jeans usually have an average density and a smooth texture. In detail, elements can be traced to one extent or another symbolizing the peach, which is the symbol of the brand.

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

One of the most famous and popular models from the Vintage Label series. The series features a very dark indigo color and the most classic details that mimic the old vintage jeans. In the Selvedge, a pink thread is woven, which symbolizes the peach.

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

These jeans are the fruit of the cooperation of Momotaro jeans and our store Denimio. This model contains some details that are not typical of this brand. For example, in the selvedge it is not a pink thread, but a thread of olive color.

TCB

If you are drawn to old vintage jeans that resemble closely the old-timer Levi’s, then you probably will be interested in the products of this small brand. Despite the fact that the company TCB has existed for not so long, their jeans are distinguished by a very sensitive approach to production expressed in the selection of denim and details closest to the jeans of the 50’s or 60’s.

TCB JEANS
50’S

TCB JEANS
50’S

For the production of this model, long-fiber Zimbabwe cotton and a rather dark shade of indigo are used to make the model closer to the old 50s jeans. In the Selvedge is woven a light pink thread, almost the same as that found on still preserved vintage jeans from that period.

TCB JEANS 60’S

TCB JEANS 60’S

These jeans are distinguished by a slightly lighter shade of denim, close to the jeans of the 60’s. It is tied with such a denim of American cotton from the San Joaquin plantation. A classic pink thread is also woven into the selvedge.

Selvedge is the most noticeable and traditional detail of classical denim and manufacturers will always try to make a certain emphasis on this detail.As we see, in addition to denim and Selvedge with a thread of cotton threaded into it, Japanese jeans have even more different details and nuances from which, in the end, the same unique Japanese quality is built and weaved into the many making of denim-manufacturing.[:es]Currently, jeans from raw selvedge denim are very popular. The colored thread woven into the edge is a kind of “identification mark”, indicating the quality of the jeans and the traditional approach to their production.

We all know (probably) that now the fashion for such jeans has covered almost the whole world and selvedge denim jeans are made by almost all manufacturers from really very serious Japanese companies that emphasize the highest quality of the product. Alas, the quality of these jeans will be completely different and even though with the use of selvedge-denim, they will not be able to automatically equate the mass-market product with high-quality Japanese jeans, produced with a painstaking “handicraft” approach.

In today’s article, we will talk about real quality jeans, manufacturers who value their product and value their reputation.

Talking about production, a piece of info to keep in mind is that shuttle-type machines can weave only a very narrow strip of denim. The edge left at the actual edges was not required to be cut and specially treated with an overlock (as is done in modern mass production). In the old days, on the external seam, there was simply an uncut edge of the Selvedge, which has now become popular due to its special characteristics.

A colored thread woven into the edge of the roll of denim was the main way to distinguish which particular manufacturer the denim was intended for. For Levi’s, it was a red or rather pink thread, for Lee – blue, for Wrangler, an orange thread was woven into the edge of the roll.

Currently, Japanese manufacturers are not so much trying to replicate the American classics (although, of course, classical repro-jeans have not disappeared at all and are still available). This also applies to a thread woven into the edge, which can often carry a certain semantic message.

Oni Denim

Oni always emphasizes the denim itself, its unique texture, its coloring methods and its beautiful fading. Oni also uses a different colored thread, woven into the Selvedge.
Here are some examples:

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

NXX denim from Oni has been released relatively recently, the main difference being a slightly higher density, 17OZ. A characteristic for such denim is that they are very dense, of a dark saturated indigo color and the texture expressed in small vertical “stripes”. A bright red thread is woven into a bright white selvedge. For those who prefer to wear jeans tucked up, it will look very impressive and beautiful, the white and red colors strongly contrasting with the dark indigo. At the same time, the red thread is the most classic and easily recognizable of all.

 

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

Famous Kabuki denim from Oni, one of the most time-consuming types of denim from this manufacturer. In addition to a very high density, this denim is also stained with natural dyes based on the leaves of the indigo plant. The name of Kabuki is also not accidental. Woven in the selvage threads of black, orange and green colors mirror the color of the curtain in the classical Japanese theater Kabuki, making it a very special tribute indeed.

 

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

DGC (Dark Green Cast) denim from Oni has a very interesting color with a greenish tinge. This color is achieved by adding sulphides to the dye. In the Selvedge, a pink thread is woven here, as on some old vintage jeans.

ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI DENIM ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED [PRE-ORDER] STOCK DATE: OCT.31
Finally, the newest denim, ultra slubby Secret denim in a completely black color. In fact, this denim is not as simple as it seems. The weft thread is intentionally colored with a more persistent dye, so that, as fading occurs, it appears through more contrasting black inclusions. The edge-Selvedge itself also has a bright red-white color, which looks very impressive on a black background.

Samurai Jeans

Most of the models from this jeans brand possess an inexpressible charisma and charm, thanks to the use of a very dense hard denim and many interesting details, some of which are the legacy of American jeans classics, and some are completely original details from Japanese culture.

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX19OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT SELVAGE DENIM

The classic and most famous 710th model of Samurai jeans. These jeans are stern and reliable, like the character and spirit of the ancient Japanese warrior and are as durable as the blade of a sword. That is why the distinguishing feature of most classic models of Samurai jeans is a silver thread woven into the silvery fabric. It symbolizes the sharpness and strength of the samurai sword.

 

SAMURAI JEANS
S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

More density?!  Here comes a version of 24OZ denim. It differs in a even more texture and soft, fuzzy denim with a less pronounced slub than the classic 19OZ model. Here in selvedge it weaves a red and silver thread, perhaps symbolizing a blade covered in blood.

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

Very interesting and, perhaps, not quite the most typical model of jeans from Samurai- at the heart of it lie the old Lee jeans design. Here we use left-handed weaving of denim (LHT) and a lighter shade of indigo. As historically done in Lee, a blue thread is woven into the mudflow slug.

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro is also one of the most famous manufacturers of Japanese jeans. Unlike the aforementioned Samurai, these jeans usually have an average density and a smooth texture. In detail, elements can be traced to one extent or another symbolizing the peach, which is the symbol of the brand.

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

One of the most famous and popular models from the Vintage Label series. The series features a very dark indigo color and the most classic details that mimic the old vintage jeans. In the Selvedge, a pink thread is woven, which symbolizes the peach.

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

These jeans are the fruit of the cooperation of Momotaro jeans and our store Denimio. This model contains some details that are not typical of this brand. For example, in the selvedge it is not a pink thread, but a thread of olive color.

TCB

If you are drawn to old vintage jeans that resemble closely the old-timer Levi’s, then you probably will be interested in the products of this small brand. Despite the fact that the company TCB has existed for not so long, their jeans are distinguished by a very sensitive approach to production expressed in the selection of denim and details closest to the jeans of the 50’s or 60’s.

TCB JEANS
50’S

TCB JEANS
50’S

For the production of this model, long-fiber Zimbabwe cotton and a rather dark shade of indigo are used to make the model closer to the old 50s jeans. In the Selvedge is woven a light pink thread, almost the same as that found on still preserved vintage jeans from that period.

TCB JEANS 60’S

TCB JEANS 60’S

These jeans are distinguished by a slightly lighter shade of denim, close to the jeans of the 60’s. It is tied with such a denim of American cotton from the San Joaquin plantation. A classic pink thread is also woven into the selvedge.

Selvedge is the most noticeable and traditional detail of classical denim and manufacturers will always try to make a certain emphasis on this detail.As we see, in addition to denim and Selvedge with a thread of cotton threaded into it, Japanese jeans have even more different details and nuances from which, in the end, the same unique Japanese quality is built and weaved into the many making of denim-manufacturing.[:fr]Currently, jeans from raw selvedge denim are very popular. The colored thread woven into the edge is a kind of “identification mark”, indicating the quality of the jeans and the traditional approach to their production.

We all know (probably) that now the fashion for such jeans has covered almost the whole world and selvedge denim jeans are made by almost all manufacturers from really very serious Japanese companies that emphasize the highest quality of the product. Alas, the quality of these jeans will be completely different and even though with the use of selvedge-denim, they will not be able to automatically equate the mass-market product with high-quality Japanese jeans, produced with a painstaking “handicraft” approach.

In today’s article, we will talk about real quality jeans, manufacturers who value their product and value their reputation.

Talking about production, a piece of info to keep in mind is that shuttle-type machines can weave only a very narrow strip of denim. The edge left at the actual edges was not required to be cut and specially treated with an overlock (as is done in modern mass production). In the old days, on the external seam, there was simply an uncut edge of the Selvedge, which has now become popular due to its special characteristics.

A colored thread woven into the edge of the roll of denim was the main way to distinguish which particular manufacturer the denim was intended for. For Levi’s, it was a red or rather pink thread, for Lee – blue, for Wrangler, an orange thread was woven into the edge of the roll.

Currently, Japanese manufacturers are not so much trying to replicate the American classics (although, of course, classical repro-jeans have not disappeared at all and are still available). This also applies to a thread woven into the edge, which can often carry a certain semantic message.

Oni Denim

Oni always emphasizes the denim itself, its unique texture, its coloring methods and its beautiful fading. Oni also uses a different colored thread, woven into the Selvedge.
Here are some examples:

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

NXX denim from Oni has been released relatively recently, the main difference being a slightly higher density, 17OZ. A characteristic for such denim is that they are very dense, of a dark saturated indigo color and the texture expressed in small vertical “stripes”. A bright red thread is woven into a bright white selvedge. For those who prefer to wear jeans tucked up, it will look very impressive and beautiful, the white and red colors strongly contrasting with the dark indigo. At the same time, the red thread is the most classic and easily recognizable of all.

 

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

Famous Kabuki denim from Oni, one of the most time-consuming types of denim from this manufacturer. In addition to a very high density, this denim is also stained with natural dyes based on the leaves of the indigo plant. The name of Kabuki is also not accidental. Woven in the selvage threads of black, orange and green colors mirror the color of the curtain in the classical Japanese theater Kabuki, making it a very special tribute indeed.

 

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

DGC (Dark Green Cast) denim from Oni has a very interesting color with a greenish tinge. This color is achieved by adding sulphides to the dye. In the Selvedge, a pink thread is woven here, as on some old vintage jeans.

ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI DENIM ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED [PRE-ORDER] STOCK DATE: OCT.31
Finally, the newest denim, ultra slubby Secret denim in a completely black color. In fact, this denim is not as simple as it seems. The weft thread is intentionally colored with a more persistent dye, so that, as fading occurs, it appears through more contrasting black inclusions. The edge-Selvedge itself also has a bright red-white color, which looks very impressive on a black background.

Samurai Jeans

Most of the models from this jeans brand possess an inexpressible charisma and charm, thanks to the use of a very dense hard denim and many interesting details, some of which are the legacy of American jeans classics, and some are completely original details from Japanese culture.

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX19OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT SELVAGE DENIM

The classic and most famous 710th model of Samurai jeans. These jeans are stern and reliable, like the character and spirit of the ancient Japanese warrior and are as durable as the blade of a sword. That is why the distinguishing feature of most classic models of Samurai jeans is a silver thread woven into the silvery fabric. It symbolizes the sharpness and strength of the samurai sword.

 

SAMURAI JEANS
S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

More density?!  Here comes a version of 24OZ denim. It differs in a even more texture and soft, fuzzy denim with a less pronounced slub than the classic 19OZ model. Here in selvedge it weaves a red and silver thread, perhaps symbolizing a blade covered in blood.

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

Very interesting and, perhaps, not quite the most typical model of jeans from Samurai- at the heart of it lie the old Lee jeans design. Here we use left-handed weaving of denim (LHT) and a lighter shade of indigo. As historically done in Lee, a blue thread is woven into the mudflow slug.

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro is also one of the most famous manufacturers of Japanese jeans. Unlike the aforementioned Samurai, these jeans usually have an average density and a smooth texture. In detail, elements can be traced to one extent or another symbolizing the peach, which is the symbol of the brand.

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

One of the most famous and popular models from the Vintage Label series. The series features a very dark indigo color and the most classic details that mimic the old vintage jeans. In the Selvedge, a pink thread is woven, which symbolizes the peach.

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

These jeans are the fruit of the cooperation of Momotaro jeans and our store Denimio. This model contains some details that are not typical of this brand. For example, in the selvedge it is not a pink thread, but a thread of olive color.

TCB

If you are drawn to old vintage jeans that resemble closely the old-timer Levi’s, then you probably will be interested in the products of this small brand. Despite the fact that the company TCB has existed for not so long, their jeans are distinguished by a very sensitive approach to production expressed in the selection of denim and details closest to the jeans of the 50’s or 60’s.

TCB JEANS
50’S

TCB JEANS
50’S

For the production of this model, long-fiber Zimbabwe cotton and a rather dark shade of indigo are used to make the model closer to the old 50s jeans. In the Selvedge is woven a light pink thread, almost the same as that found on still preserved vintage jeans from that period.

TCB JEANS 60’S

TCB JEANS 60’S

These jeans are distinguished by a slightly lighter shade of denim, close to the jeans of the 60’s. It is tied with such a denim of American cotton from the San Joaquin plantation. A classic pink thread is also woven into the selvedge.

Selvedge is the most noticeable and traditional detail of classical denim and manufacturers will always try to make a certain emphasis on this detail.As we see, in addition to denim and Selvedge with a thread of cotton threaded into it, Japanese jeans have even more different details and nuances from which, in the end, the same unique Japanese quality is built and weaved into the many making of denim-manufacturing.[:it]Currently, jeans from raw selvedge denim are very popular. The colored thread woven into the edge is a kind of “identification mark”, indicating the quality of the jeans and the traditional approach to their production.

We all know (probably) that now the fashion for such jeans has covered almost the whole world and selvedge denim jeans are made by almost all manufacturers from really very serious Japanese companies that emphasize the highest quality of the product. Alas, the quality of these jeans will be completely different and even though with the use of selvedge-denim, they will not be able to automatically equate the mass-market product with high-quality Japanese jeans, produced with a painstaking “handicraft” approach.

In today’s article, we will talk about real quality jeans, manufacturers who value their product and value their reputation.

Talking about production, a piece of info to keep in mind is that shuttle-type machines can weave only a very narrow strip of denim. The edge left at the actual edges was not required to be cut and specially treated with an overlock (as is done in modern mass production). In the old days, on the external seam, there was simply an uncut edge of the Selvedge, which has now become popular due to its special characteristics.

A colored thread woven into the edge of the roll of denim was the main way to distinguish which particular manufacturer the denim was intended for. For Levi’s, it was a red or rather pink thread, for Lee – blue, for Wrangler, an orange thread was woven into the edge of the roll.

Currently, Japanese manufacturers are not so much trying to replicate the American classics (although, of course, classical repro-jeans have not disappeared at all and are still available). This also applies to a thread woven into the edge, which can often carry a certain semantic message.

Oni Denim

Oni always emphasizes the denim itself, its unique texture, its coloring methods and its beautiful fading. Oni also uses a different colored thread, woven into the Selvedge.
Here are some examples:

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

NXX denim from Oni has been released relatively recently, the main difference being a slightly higher density, 17OZ. A characteristic for such denim is that they are very dense, of a dark saturated indigo color and the texture expressed in small vertical “stripes”. A bright red thread is woven into a bright white selvedge. For those who prefer to wear jeans tucked up, it will look very impressive and beautiful, the white and red colors strongly contrasting with the dark indigo. At the same time, the red thread is the most classic and easily recognizable of all.

 

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

Famous Kabuki denim from Oni, one of the most time-consuming types of denim from this manufacturer. In addition to a very high density, this denim is also stained with natural dyes based on the leaves of the indigo plant. The name of Kabuki is also not accidental. Woven in the selvage threads of black, orange and green colors mirror the color of the curtain in the classical Japanese theater Kabuki, making it a very special tribute indeed.

 

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

DGC (Dark Green Cast) denim from Oni has a very interesting color with a greenish tinge. This color is achieved by adding sulphides to the dye. In the Selvedge, a pink thread is woven here, as on some old vintage jeans.

ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI DENIM ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED [PRE-ORDER] STOCK DATE: OCT.31
Finally, the newest denim, ultra slubby Secret denim in a completely black color. In fact, this denim is not as simple as it seems. The weft thread is intentionally colored with a more persistent dye, so that, as fading occurs, it appears through more contrasting black inclusions. The edge-Selvedge itself also has a bright red-white color, which looks very impressive on a black background.

Samurai Jeans

Most of the models from this jeans brand possess an inexpressible charisma and charm, thanks to the use of a very dense hard denim and many interesting details, some of which are the legacy of American jeans classics, and some are completely original details from Japanese culture.

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX19OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT SELVAGE DENIM

The classic and most famous 710th model of Samurai jeans. These jeans are stern and reliable, like the character and spirit of the ancient Japanese warrior and are as durable as the blade of a sword. That is why the distinguishing feature of most classic models of Samurai jeans is a silver thread woven into the silvery fabric. It symbolizes the sharpness and strength of the samurai sword.

 

SAMURAI JEANS
S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

More density?!  Here comes a version of 24OZ denim. It differs in a even more texture and soft, fuzzy denim with a less pronounced slub than the classic 19OZ model. Here in selvedge it weaves a red and silver thread, perhaps symbolizing a blade covered in blood.

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

Very interesting and, perhaps, not quite the most typical model of jeans from Samurai- at the heart of it lie the old Lee jeans design. Here we use left-handed weaving of denim (LHT) and a lighter shade of indigo. As historically done in Lee, a blue thread is woven into the mudflow slug.

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro is also one of the most famous manufacturers of Japanese jeans. Unlike the aforementioned Samurai, these jeans usually have an average density and a smooth texture. In detail, elements can be traced to one extent or another symbolizing the peach, which is the symbol of the brand.

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

One of the most famous and popular models from the Vintage Label series. The series features a very dark indigo color and the most classic details that mimic the old vintage jeans. In the Selvedge, a pink thread is woven, which symbolizes the peach.

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

These jeans are the fruit of the cooperation of Momotaro jeans and our store Denimio. This model contains some details that are not typical of this brand. For example, in the selvedge it is not a pink thread, but a thread of olive color.

TCB

If you are drawn to old vintage jeans that resemble closely the old-timer Levi’s, then you probably will be interested in the products of this small brand. Despite the fact that the company TCB has existed for not so long, their jeans are distinguished by a very sensitive approach to production expressed in the selection of denim and details closest to the jeans of the 50’s or 60’s.

TCB JEANS
50’S

TCB JEANS
50’S

For the production of this model, long-fiber Zimbabwe cotton and a rather dark shade of indigo are used to make the model closer to the old 50s jeans. In the Selvedge is woven a light pink thread, almost the same as that found on still preserved vintage jeans from that period.

TCB JEANS 60’S

TCB JEANS 60’S

These jeans are distinguished by a slightly lighter shade of denim, close to the jeans of the 60’s. It is tied with such a denim of American cotton from the San Joaquin plantation. A classic pink thread is also woven into the selvedge.

Selvedge is the most noticeable and traditional detail of classical denim and manufacturers will always try to make a certain emphasis on this detail.As we see, in addition to denim and Selvedge with a thread of cotton threaded into it, Japanese jeans have even more different details and nuances from which, in the end, the same unique Japanese quality is built and weaved into the many making of denim-manufacturing.[:pt]Currently, jeans from raw selvedge denim are very popular. The colored thread woven into the edge is a kind of “identification mark”, indicating the quality of the jeans and the traditional approach to their production.

We all know (probably) that now the fashion for such jeans has covered almost the whole world and selvedge denim jeans are made by almost all manufacturers from really very serious Japanese companies that emphasize the highest quality of the product. Alas, the quality of these jeans will be completely different and even though with the use of selvedge-denim, they will not be able to automatically equate the mass-market product with high-quality Japanese jeans, produced with a painstaking “handicraft” approach.

In today’s article, we will talk about real quality jeans, manufacturers who value their product and value their reputation.

Talking about production, a piece of info to keep in mind is that shuttle-type machines can weave only a very narrow strip of denim. The edge left at the actual edges was not required to be cut and specially treated with an overlock (as is done in modern mass production). In the old days, on the external seam, there was simply an uncut edge of the Selvedge, which has now become popular due to its special characteristics.

A colored thread woven into the edge of the roll of denim was the main way to distinguish which particular manufacturer the denim was intended for. For Levi’s, it was a red or rather pink thread, for Lee – blue, for Wrangler, an orange thread was woven into the edge of the roll.

Currently, Japanese manufacturers are not so much trying to replicate the American classics (although, of course, classical repro-jeans have not disappeared at all and are still available). This also applies to a thread woven into the edge, which can often carry a certain semantic message.

Oni Denim

Oni always emphasizes the denim itself, its unique texture, its coloring methods and its beautiful fading. Oni also uses a different colored thread, woven into the Selvedge.
Here are some examples:

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

NXX denim from Oni has been released relatively recently, the main difference being a slightly higher density, 17OZ. A characteristic for such denim is that they are very dense, of a dark saturated indigo color and the texture expressed in small vertical “stripes”. A bright red thread is woven into a bright white selvedge. For those who prefer to wear jeans tucked up, it will look very impressive and beautiful, the white and red colors strongly contrasting with the dark indigo. At the same time, the red thread is the most classic and easily recognizable of all.

 

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

Famous Kabuki denim from Oni, one of the most time-consuming types of denim from this manufacturer. In addition to a very high density, this denim is also stained with natural dyes based on the leaves of the indigo plant. The name of Kabuki is also not accidental. Woven in the selvage threads of black, orange and green colors mirror the color of the curtain in the classical Japanese theater Kabuki, making it a very special tribute indeed.

 

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

DGC (Dark Green Cast) denim from Oni has a very interesting color with a greenish tinge. This color is achieved by adding sulphides to the dye. In the Selvedge, a pink thread is woven here, as on some old vintage jeans.

ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI DENIM ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED [PRE-ORDER] STOCK DATE: OCT.31
Finally, the newest denim, ultra slubby Secret denim in a completely black color. In fact, this denim is not as simple as it seems. The weft thread is intentionally colored with a more persistent dye, so that, as fading occurs, it appears through more contrasting black inclusions. The edge-Selvedge itself also has a bright red-white color, which looks very impressive on a black background.

Samurai Jeans

Most of the models from this jeans brand possess an inexpressible charisma and charm, thanks to the use of a very dense hard denim and many interesting details, some of which are the legacy of American jeans classics, and some are completely original details from Japanese culture.

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX19OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT SELVAGE DENIM

The classic and most famous 710th model of Samurai jeans. These jeans are stern and reliable, like the character and spirit of the ancient Japanese warrior and are as durable as the blade of a sword. That is why the distinguishing feature of most classic models of Samurai jeans is a silver thread woven into the silvery fabric. It symbolizes the sharpness and strength of the samurai sword.

 

SAMURAI JEANS
S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

More density?!  Here comes a version of 24OZ denim. It differs in a even more texture and soft, fuzzy denim with a less pronounced slub than the classic 19OZ model. Here in selvedge it weaves a red and silver thread, perhaps symbolizing a blade covered in blood.

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

Very interesting and, perhaps, not quite the most typical model of jeans from Samurai- at the heart of it lie the old Lee jeans design. Here we use left-handed weaving of denim (LHT) and a lighter shade of indigo. As historically done in Lee, a blue thread is woven into the mudflow slug.

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro is also one of the most famous manufacturers of Japanese jeans. Unlike the aforementioned Samurai, these jeans usually have an average density and a smooth texture. In detail, elements can be traced to one extent or another symbolizing the peach, which is the symbol of the brand.

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

One of the most famous and popular models from the Vintage Label series. The series features a very dark indigo color and the most classic details that mimic the old vintage jeans. In the Selvedge, a pink thread is woven, which symbolizes the peach.

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

These jeans are the fruit of the cooperation of Momotaro jeans and our store Denimio. This model contains some details that are not typical of this brand. For example, in the selvedge it is not a pink thread, but a thread of olive color.

TCB

If you are drawn to old vintage jeans that resemble closely the old-timer Levi’s, then you probably will be interested in the products of this small brand. Despite the fact that the company TCB has existed for not so long, their jeans are distinguished by a very sensitive approach to production expressed in the selection of denim and details closest to the jeans of the 50’s or 60’s.

TCB JEANS
50’S

TCB JEANS
50’S

For the production of this model, long-fiber Zimbabwe cotton and a rather dark shade of indigo are used to make the model closer to the old 50s jeans. In the Selvedge is woven a light pink thread, almost the same as that found on still preserved vintage jeans from that period.

TCB JEANS 60’S

TCB JEANS 60’S

These jeans are distinguished by a slightly lighter shade of denim, close to the jeans of the 60’s. It is tied with such a denim of American cotton from the San Joaquin plantation. A classic pink thread is also woven into the selvedge.

Selvedge is the most noticeable and traditional detail of classical denim and manufacturers will always try to make a certain emphasis on this detail.As we see, in addition to denim and Selvedge with a thread of cotton threaded into it, Japanese jeans have even more different details and nuances from which, in the end, the same unique Japanese quality is built and weaved into the many making of denim-manufacturing.[:ru] 

Сейчас очень популярны джинсы с необработанной кромкой. Цветная нить, вплетенная в край, является своеобразным «идентификационным знаком», указывающим на качество джинсов и традиционный подход к их производству.

Да, мы все, наверное, знаем, что сейчас мода на такие джинсы охватывает почти весь мир и кромки джинсов из денима делаются почти всеми производителями от действительно очень серьезных японских компаний, которые подчеркивают высочайшее качество продукта, до однодневных и компаний массового производства, которые просто подхватили популярную тему и менее внимательны к качеству своего продукта. Конечно, качество этих джинсов будет совершенно иным, и использование кромки-денима не сможет автоматически приравнять массово-рыночный продукт к качественным японским джинсам, изготовленным с кропотливым «ремесленным» подходом.

И, конечно, в нашей сегодняшней статье мы будем говорить о реальном качестве джинсов и производителей, которые ценят свой продукт и репутацию.

Если говорить о производстве, то еще раз напомним, что станки типа «шаттл» могут плести только очень узкую полоску джинсовой ткани. Кромка, оставленная на краях, не должна быть срезана и специально обработана овелоком (как это делается в современном массовом производстве). На внешнем стыке, у необрезанного края, который теперь стал настолько популярным, кромка просто остается.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Цветная нить, вплетенная в край рулона джинсовой ткани, в далеком прошлом была использована для определения, для каких определенных джинсовых компаний был предназначен деним. Для Levi’s, это была красная или ярко-розовая нить, для Lee – голубая, для Wrangler оранжевая нить была вплетена в край рулона.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

В настоящее время японские производители не столько пытаются повторить американскую классику (хотя, конечно, классические репро-джинсы не исчезли и по-прежнему доступны), это также относится к нити вплетенной в край, которая часто может нести определенное семантическое сообщение.

Давайте попробуем с вами рассмотреть варианты для кромки от различных японских производителей и, возможно, эти детали смогут рассказать нам об этих джинсах немного больше.

Oni Denim

Они всегда подчеркивают саму джинсовую ткань, ее уникальную текстуру, методы окраски и ее прекрасную выцветанию. ТакжеOni использует различные цветные нити, сплетенные в ткань.
Вот несколько примеров

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NXX джинс от Oni был выпущен сравнительно недавно, основное отличие от предыдущего ХХ денима в несколько более высокой плотности, 17oz. Отличительной чертой таких джинсов является то, что они очень плотные, темно насыщенного цвета Индиго и текстура, выраженная в небольших вертикальных “полосах”. Ярко-красная нить сплетена в яркую белую кромку. Для тех, кто предпочитает носить подвернутые джинсы, она будет выглядеть очень впечатляющей и красивой, потому что белый и красный цвета будут сильно контрастируют с темными Индиго. В то же время, красная нить является самой классической и легко узнаваемой из всех.

 

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Знаменитая джинсовая ткань Kabuki от Oni это один из самых трудоемких видов джинсовой ткани от этого производителя. В дополнение к очень высокой плотности, этот деним также окрашен природными красителями на основе листьев растения Индиго. Название Kabuki у этого джинса не случайно. Сплетенные в кромки нити черного, оранжевого и зеленого цветов повторяют цвет занавеса в классическом японском театре Кабуки.
ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DGC (Dark Green Cast) джинс от Oni имеет очень интересный цвет с зеленоватым оттенком. Этот цвет достигается путем добавления сульфидов к красителю. В ткани розовая нить сплетена здесь как на некоторых старых винтажных джинсах.

ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI DENIM ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED [PRE-ORDER] STOCK DATE: OCT.31

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Наконец, новейший джинс Secret с ультра неодрородной текстурой (slubby) полностью черного цвета. В самом деле, джинс не так прост, как кажется. Нити из утка преднамеренно окрашены более стойкими красителями, так что, когда начинается затирание, он появляется через более контрастные черные включения. Край ткани также имеет ярко-красно-белый цвет, который выглядит очень впечетляюще на черном фоне.

Samurai Jeans

Большинство моделей джинсов этого бренда обладают невыразимой харизмой и обаянием, благодаря использованию очень плотного жесткого денима и многих интересных деталей, некоторые из которых являются наследием американской классики джинсов, а некоторые являются полностью оригинальными деталями из Японской культуры.

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX19OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT SELVAGE DENIM

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Классические и самые известные 710th model of Samurai jeans. Эти джинсы суровые и надежные, как характер и дух древнего японского воина и столь же долговечны, как лезвие меча. Именно поэтому отличительной чертой большинства классических моделей Samurai jeans является серебряная нить, сплетенная в серебристую ткань. Она символизирует резкость и силу самурайского меча.

SAMURAI JEANS
S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Более плотная версия джинса с плотностью 24OZ . Она отличается более равномерной текстурой и мягким, пушистым джинсом с менее выраженным утолщением, чем класическая модель с плотностью 19OZ. Здесь в кромку ткут красную и серебряную нить, возможно она символизирует кровавый клинок))

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Очень интересная и, пожалуй, не совсем обычная модель джинсов для самураев, в самом сердце ее лежат старые джинсы Lee. Здесь мы используем левосторонне тканный джинс (LHT) и светлый оттенок Индиго. Как исторически сделано в Lee, синяя нить вплетена в нижний край.

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro также является одним из самых известных производителей японских джинсов. В отличие от вышеупомянутых Samurai, эти джинсы, как правило, имеют среднюю плотность и гладкую текстуру. В деталях элементов можно проследить символ персика, который является символом бренда.

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Одна из самых известных и популярных моделей из серии Винтаж. Серия имеет очень темный цвет Индиго и самые классические детали, которые имитируют старые винтажные джинсы. По кромке вплетена розовая нить, которая символизирует персик.

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Эти джинсы являются плодом сотрудничества Momotaro jeans и нашего магазина. Эта модель содержит некоторые детали, которые не являются типичными для серийных релизов этой марки. Так, например, на краю это не розовая нить, а нить оливкового цвета.

TCB

Если вы являетесь приверженцем класических джинсов, сделанных как можно ближе к старым винтажным джинсам Levi’s, то вы, вероятно, будете заинтересованы в продукции этого маленького бренда. Несмотря на то, что компания TCB существует очень недавно, их джинсы отличаются очень чувствительным подходом к производству и выражаются в выборе денима и деталей ближе к джинсам 50-х или 60-х.

 

TCB JEANS
50-е

TCB JEANS
50’S

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Для производства этой модели используются длинные волокна замбабвийского хлопка и довольно темный оттенок Индиго, чтобы сделать модель ближе к старым джинсам 50-х. В кайму вплетены светло розовые нити, почти такие же, как и на до сих пор сохранившихся старинных джинсах этого периода

TCB ДЖИНСЫ 60-х

TCB ДЖИНСЫ 60-х

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These jeans are distinguished by a slightly lighter shade of denim, close to the jeans of the 60’s. It is tied with such a denim of American cotton from the San Joaquin plantation. A classic pink thread is also woven into the selvage.

 

Как мы видим, в дополнение к джинсовой и кромке с вплетенной нитью хлопка, японские джинсы имеют более разнообразные детали и нюансы, из которых, построено уникальное японское качество.[:th] 

ในขณะที่ยีนส์ผ้าดิบที่เป็นผ้าริมนั้นได้รับความนิยมอย่างแพร่หลาย สีที่ถูกทอเข้าไปที่ริมผ้าเป็นสิ่งที่เหมือนกับ “เครื่องบอกตัวตน” บ่งบอกถึงคุณภาพของผ้ายีนส์และสิ่งที่ถูกใช้ในจิตวิญญาณของการผลิตนั้น

เราทั้งหลายทราบดี (น่าจะทราบ) ว่าในตอนนี้แฟชั่นสำหรับยีนส์ได้กระจายไปทั่วโลก และยีนส์ผ้าริมก็ผลิตโดยผู้ผลิตจากญี่ปุ่นที่จริงจังกับคุณภาพของผลิตภัณฑ์เป็นที่สุด อย่างไรก็ตามคุณภาพของยีนส์เหล่านี้ย่อมมีความแตกต่างอยู่ในตัวแม้จะเป็นยีนส์ผ้าริมเหมือนกัน มันจะไม่ได้เป็นตัวบ่งบอกอย่างอัตโนมัติว่ายีนส์ตัวนั้นเป็นยีนส์ญี่ปุ่นคุณภาพสูงที่ผลิตด้วยมือ

ในบทความวันนี้ เราจะพูดถึงผู้ผลิตยีนส์คุณภาพที่แท้จริงที่ผลิตขึ้นโดยผู้ผลิตที่ให้ความสำคัญกับผลิตภัณฑ์ของตนและความเป็นที่นิยมของพวกเขาด้วย

พูดถึงกระบวนการผลิต สิ่งหนึ่งที่ต้องนึกถึงตลอดคือเครื่องทอกระสวยที่สามารถทอผ้าได้แต่ผ้าหน้าแคบเท่านั้น ริมฝั่งซ้ายและขวาไม่มีความจำเป็นต้องตัดออก ในสมัยก่อนริมด้านนอกจะปล่อยไว้และไม่ตัดออกซึ่งสมัยนี้ได้รับความนิยมอย่างมากด้วยคุณลักษณะพิเศษของมัน

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

สีที่ถูกใช้บริเวณผ้าริมของม้วนผ้ายีนส์นี้จะเป็นหลักที่บอกได้คร่าวๆว่าผ้านี้เป็นของผู้ผลิตเจ้าไหน สำหรับลีวายก็จะต้องเป็นสีแดงหรือชมพู สำหรับ Lee สีน้ำเงินและ Wrangler สีส้ม

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ในปัจจุบันนี้ ผู้ผลิตจากญี่ปุ่นไม่ได้จะพยายามเลียนแบบรูปแบบของอเมริกันคลาสสิกมากนัก (แม้จะมีรุ่น repro บ้างในบางครั้งและยังคงมีจำหน่ายมาเรื่อยๆ) ในที่นี้หมายถึงสิ่งที่จะถูกใส่เข้าไปตอนทอผ้าริมด้วย บางครั้งก็เป็นข้อความที่สื่อมาแก่ผู้สวมใส่

Oni Denim

Oni สร้างยีนส์ของพวกเขาด้วยตัวเองเสมอ อย่างที่ทุกคนทราบดีคือเนื้อผ้าที่ไม่เหมือนใคร การย้อมและการเฟดที่สวยงาม Oni ใช้สีผ้าริมทอเข้าไปที่ไม่เหมือนใครด้วยเช่นกัน และนี่เป็นตัวอย่างพอสังเขป:

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ยีนส์รุ่น NXX จาก Oni เพิ่งออกมาให้เห็นกันล่าสุด สิ่งที่แตกต่างที่เป็นปัจจัยสำคัญคือความหนาแน่นของมัน น้ำหนัก 17oz คุณลักษณะของยีนส์รุ่นนี้คือมันแน่นและสีครามเข้มของมัน และผิวเนื้อผ้าที่เป็นริ้วๆตามยาว สีริมผ้าที่เป็นสีแดงสดถูกทอเข้าไปร่วมกับสีขาวเด่น สำหรับท่านที่ชอบยีนส์ลักษณะนี้ มันจะมีลักษณะที่สะดุดตาและสวยงาม สีขาวและแดงให้โทนสีที่ตัดกับสีครามเข้ม ในขณะเดียวกัน สีแดงนี้มีความคลาสสิกและสามารถเห็นได้ด้วยตาเปล่าอย่างชัดเจน

 

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

เจ้ายีนส์ Kabuki ที่โด่งดังจาก Oni คือหนึ่งในยีนส์ที่โดดเด่นที่สุดจากผู้ผลิตรายนี้ นอกจากน้ำหนักที่มาก ยีนส์รุ่นนี้ยังถูกย้อมด้วยวิธีการย้อมแบบธรรมชาติจากใบต้นคราม ชื่อของ Kabuki เองไม่ได้เกิดขึ้นโดนบังเอิญ การทอผ้าริมสีดำ ส้ม และเขียว สะท้อนให้เห็นถึงสีของม่านในโรงละครโบราณของญี่ปุ่นที่ชื่อ Kabuki ทำให้ระลึกถึงสิ่งนี้เป็นอย่างพิเศษ

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ยีนส์ DGC (Dark Green Cast) จาก Oni มีสีที่น่าสนใจมากในโทนสีอมเขียว สีนี้ได้จากการเพิ่มกำมะถันเข้าไปในกระบวนการย้อม ริมผ้ารุ่นนี้ใช้สีชมพูทอเข้าไปเช่นเดียวกับยีนส์แบบวินเทจ

ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI DENIM ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED [PRE-ORDER] STOCK DATE: OCT.31

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ท้ายที่สุด ยีนส์รุ่นล่าสุด เนื้อผ้าแบบ Slubby สุดๆของ Secret denim ในสีดำสนิท อันที่จริงแล้วยีนส์ตัวนี้ไม่ได้ทำได้ง่ายๆแม้มันจะดูเรียบๆ การย้อมผ้าด้านในหรือว่า weft ของยีนส์นั้นจะต้องใช้สีที่มากกว่าในการย้อม และเมื่อยีนส์เริ่มเฟดนั้น มันจะเฟดแบบ contrast สูงในโทนสีดำ สีของริมผ้านั้นเป็นสีขาวแดงสด ซึ่งเด่นเป็นสง่าเมื่อมีฉากหลังเป็นสีดำสนิท

 

Samurai Jeans

ยีนส์ส่วนมากจากแบรนด์นี้มักจะมีคุณลักษณะและเสน่ห์ที่ไม่เหมือนใคร ต้องขอขอบคุณการเลือกใช้เนื้อผ้าที่มีความหนาแน่นและแข็ง รวมถึงรายละเอียดที่น่าสนใจต่างๆ ซึ่งบางส่วนเป็นรูปแบบของอเมริกันคลาสสิกดั้งเดิม และบางส่วนก็เป็นสิ่งที่มาจากวัฒนธรรมญี่ปุ่นดั้งเดิมด้วย

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX19OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT SELVAGE DENIM

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ตัวคลาสสิกและมีชื่อเสียงที่สุด หรือ 710th model of Samurai jeans ยีนส์รุ่นนี้วางใจได้ คุณลักษณะและจิตวิญญาณของนักรบญี่ปุ่น และยังมีความคงทนเช่นเดียวกับใบมีดของดาบ นี่คือเหตุผลที่รายละเอียดของรุ่นคลาสสิกจาก Samurai jeans จะมีสีเงินทอเข้าไปในผ้า มันเป็นสัญลักษณ์ของความแหลมคมและแข็งแกร่งแห่งดาบของซามูไร

 

SAMURAI JEANS
S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ต้องการหนามากกว่านี้?! มาถึงยีนส์รุ่น น้ำหนัก 24OZ มันแตกต่างด้วยเนื้อผ้าที่นุ่ม และมีความซลับบี้ที่น้อยกว่ารุ่น คลาสสิก 19OZ บริเวณริมผ้าจะทอด้วยสีแดงและสีเงิน ซึ่งอาจเป็นสัญลักษณ์ของใบมีดที่ปกคลุมด้วยเลือด

 

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

น่าสนใจอย่างมาก และอาจจะไม่ค่อยเหมือนรุ่นทั่วไปจาก Samurai ใจความสำคัญของรุ่นนี้คือการดีไซน์แบบ Lee ดั้งเดิม ในรุ่นนี้ใช้วิธีการทอแบบ Left Hand Twill ในโทนสีครามที่อ่อนกว่า จากประวัติศาสตร์ของ Lee สมัยก่อน สีที่ทอเข้าไปในผ้าริมจึงเป็นสีน้ำเงิน

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro เป็นหนึ่งในแบรนด์ที่มีชื่อเสียงที่สุดในบรรดาผู้ผลิตยีนส์จากญี่ปุ่น จะแตกต่างจากแบรนด์ที่กล่าวมาก่อนหน้านี้ ยีนส์แบรนด์นี้มักจะมีความหนาแน่นปานกลางและผิวที่เรียบเนียน ในรายละเอียดเองจะมีสิ่งที่เป็นสัญลักษณ์เป็นรูปลูกท้อ ซึ่งเป็นสัญลักษณ์ของแบรนด์

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

หนึ่งในรุ่นที่โด่งดังและเป็นที่นิยมมากที่สุดจาก Vintage Label series รุ่นนี้ประกอบด้วยสีครามที่เข้มมากและรายละเอียดคลาสสิกที่บ่งบอกถึงความเป็นยีนส์วินเทจโบราณ ในส่วนของผ้าริม สีชมพูถูกใช้ทอเข้าไปอันเป็นสัญลักษณ์ของลูกท้อ

 

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ยีนส์รุ่นนี้เป็นผลผลิตของบริษัทที่ผลิต Momotaro jeans และสโตร์ของเรา Denimio รุ่นนี้จะประกอบไปด้วยรายละเอียดบางอย่างที่ไม่ได้เป็นเอกลักษณ์ของแบรนด์นี้ เช่น บริเวณผ้าริมจะไม่ใช้ริมสีชมพู แต่จะเป็นสีเขียวโอลีฟแทน

TCB

หากท่านเป็นคนที่ชอบยีนส์แบบวินเทจที่มีลักษณะใกล้เคียงกับลีวายดั้งเดิม ท่านน่าจะสนใจในผลิตภัณฑ์ของแบรนด์เล็กๆแบรนด์นี้ จากข้อเท็จจริงที่บริษัทของ TCB เพิ่งก่อตั้งได้ไม่นานนัก ยีนส์ของพวกเขานั้นใช้คอนเสปที่จะสามารถบอกได้ทันทีว่ารายละเอียดต่างๆนั้นใกล้เคียงกับยีนส์ในช่วงทศวรรษที่ 50’s หรือ 60’s

 

TCB JEANS
50’S

TCB JEANS
50’S

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

สำหรับการผลิตของรุ่นนี้ ได้มีการใช้ฝ้ายใยยาวจากซิมบัปเวย์ในเฉดสีที่จะมีความเข้มกว่าซึ่งทำให้รุ่นนี้มีความใกล้เคียงกับยีนส์ดั้งเดิมในทศวรรษที่ 50s ส่วนของผ้าริมใช้สีชมพูทอเข้าไปซึ่งแทบจะเหมือนกับยีนส์วินเทจในยุคนั้นอย่างไม่น่าเชื่อ

 

TCB JEANS 60’S

TCB JEANS 60’S

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ยีนส์รุ่นนี้จะย้อมเป็นสีโทนที่อ่อนลงมากว่ารุ่นก่อนหน้า จะมีความใกล้เคียงกับยีนส์ในยุคทศวรรษที่ 60’s ซึ่งเป็นยีนส์ที่ใช้ฝ้ายจากอเมริกา จากฟาร์มเพาะปลูกของ San Joaquin สีชมพูแบบคลาสสิกถูกเลือกใช้ทอเข้ากับริมผ้า

 

ริมผ้าจะเป็นอะไรที่สามารถมองเห็นได้และเป็นรายละเอียดดั้งเดิมของยีนส์โบราณ ผู้ผลิตทุกรายมักจะพยายามที่จะสร้างรายละเอียดนี้เสมอ อย่างที่เราเห็น นอกจากยีนส์และผ้าริมกับฝ้ายที่ทอด้วยกันแล้ว ยีนส์จากญี่ปุ่นยังมีรายละเอียดที่แตกต่างกันไปซึ่ง สุดท้ายแล้วคุณภาพจากญี่ปุ่นที่ใกล้เคียงกันได้ถูกสร้างและทอขึ้นในกระบวนการผลิตของผ้ายีนส์[:ms]Sekarang, seluar jeans dari selvedge denim sangat popular. Benang berwarna ditenun sebagai “simbol identiti”, memaparkan kualiti jeans dan proses pengeluaran tradisional.

Setiap daripada kita (mungkin) tahu bahawa fesyen seluar jeans telah berkembang di seluruh dunia dan jeans selvedge denim dikeluarkan oleh hampir semua syarikat kilang Jepun yang terkemuka di mana mereka menghasilkan produk berkualiti tinggi. Kualiti jeans ini akan sama sekali berbeza walaupun seluar jeans ini adalah selvedge-denim. Mereka tidak dihasilkan seperti kebanyakan produk biasa lain di mana jeans Jepun ini mempunyai kualiti tinggi dan dihasilkan melalui proses “kraf” yang rumit.

Dalam artikel hari ini, kami akan membincangkan seluar jeans berkualiti yang dihasilkan oleh pengeluar terkemuka dengan reputasi terbaik.

Bercakap tentang proses pengeluaran, maklumat penting yang perlu diingat ialah mesin jenis shuttle hanya boleh menenun jalur denim yang sempit. Bahagian tepi denim tidak perlu dipotong dan dirawat dengan elemen overlock (seperti pengeluaran denim moden). Dalam era terdahulu, bahagian eksternal seam, membentangkan pinggiran Selvedge yang tidak terpotong, kini menjadi popular dengan ciri khas ini.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Benang yang telah diwarnai ditenun di bahagian tepi gulungan denim yang membezakan pengeluaran denim dari pengeluar denim tertentu. Bagi Levi, benang merah atau merah jambu, untuk Lee – biru dan Wrangler, benang oren ditenun ke tepi gulungan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sekarang, kilang Jepun tidak lagi mencuba untuk meniru model Amerika klasik (walaupun, tentu saja, jeans klasik repro tidak hilang dan masih ada). Ia juga membawa benang tenunan di tepi.

Oni Denim

Oni sentiasa meletakkan kualiti denim, dengan tekstur unik, kaedah pewarnaan yang rumit dengan hasil pudar yang indah. Oni juga menggunakan benang warna yang berbeza ditenun ke bahagian Selvedge.
Anda boleh melihat contoh seperti berikut:

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NXX denim dari Oni kini telah dirilis, perbezaan utama denim ini ialah berat lebih, 17OZ. Watak denim ini adalah berat, gelap indigo yang padat dan tekstur yang menyatakan motif kecil “berjalur” tegak. Benang merah terang ditenun menjadi selvedge putih terang. Bagi Anda yang suka memakai seluar jeans tucked up, denim ini akan menarik perhatian Anda dengan rupa cantik benang putih dan merah yang kelihatan berbeza dengan warna indigo gelap. Pada masa yang sama, benang merah adalah unsur yang paling klasik dan mudah dikenali.

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kabuki Denim terkenal yang disampaikan oleh Oni, adalah satu jenis denim yang memerlukan banyak masa dalam proses pengeluaran kilang. Selain denim berat, denim ini juga diwarnai dengan warna semulajadi yang diperoleh daripada daun tumbuhan berwarna indigo. Populariti nama Kabuki juga mempunyai alasan pasti. Ditenun dengan benang selvage berwarna hitam, oren dan hijau, denim ini mempunyai warna tirai dalam teater Kabuki Jepun klasik, yang membentuk ciri khas denim ini.

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Denim DGC (Dark Green Cast) dari Oni mempunyai warna yang menarik dengan warna kehijauan. Warna ini boleh didapati dengan menambahkan sulfida ke dalam pewarnaan. Di bahagian Selvedge, benang merah jambu ditenun, yang juga terdapat dalam seluar jeans vintaj lama.

 

ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED

ONI DENIM ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED [PRE-ORDER] STOCK DATE: OCT.31

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Akhirnya, denim terkini, ultra slubby Secret denim mempunyai warna hitam yang sempurna. Malah, denim ini tidak semudah bagaimana rupanya. Benang weft thread denim ini sengaja diwarnai dengan warna yang lebih gigih, jadi jika pudar dihasilkan, ia akan menyertakan paparan warna hitam yang lebih kontras. Ujung Selvedge juga mempunyai warna merah dan putih yang cerah, yang kelihatan mengagumkan terhadap latar belakang hitam.

Samurai Jeans

Kebanyakan model jeans ini mempunyai karisma dan daya tarikan yang tidak dapat dijelaskan dengan kata-kata, berkat denim padat dan butiran lain yang menarik, beberapa di antaranya adalah klasik yang diwarisi dari jeans Amerika, dan ada pula dari budaya asli Jepun.

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX19OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT SELVAGE DENIM

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Model 710th Samurai jeansadalah jeans klasik dan paling terkenal. Seluar jeans ini kukuh dan boleh dipercaya, seperti watak dan semangat pahlawan Jepun kuno dan tahan lama seperti pedang. Itulah sebabnya ciri khas yang paling khas dari Samurai jeans adalah benang perak yang ditenun ke dalam kain perak. Ia melambangkan ketajaman dan kekuatan pedang samurai.

SAMURAI JEANS
S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Berat lebih? Ini ialah versi denim 24OZ. Ia berbeza dengan tekstur dan kelembutan, denim dengan slub kurang jelas daripada model klasik 19OZ. Dalam selvedge denim, dia membentangkan benang merah dan perak, melambangkan pisau dengan darah.

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sangat menarik dan mungkin, bukan seluar biasa dari Samurai-ia mempunyai reka bentuk jeans Lee kuno. Di sini, denim menggunakan teknik tenunan left-handed weaving (LHT) dan dengan nada indigo ringan. Dalam sejarah pengeluaran denim Lee, benang biru ditenun menjadi mudflow slug.

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro juga kilang seluar jeans yang paling terkenal di Jepun. Berbeza dari Samurai, seluar jeans ini biasanya mempunyai berat badan sederhana dengan tekstur halus. Secara terperinci, elemen ini boleh didengar dengan simbol buah pic, yang merupakan lambang utama jenama jeans ini.

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salah satu model yang paling terkenal dan popular dalam siri Label Vintage. Siri ini menampilkan warna indigo gelap dan butiran paling klasik yang mengikut reka bentuk seluar jeans vintage kuno. Di Selvedge, benang merah jambu ditenun, yang mewakili buah pic.

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seluar jeans ini adalah hasil kerja sama Momotaro jeans dan Denimio. Model ini mempunyai beberapa butiran yang tidak lazim di jenama ini. Sebagai contoh, di bahagian selvedge benang merah jambu tidak digunakan, tetapi benang berwarna zaitun.

TCB

Sekiranya Anda suka seluar jeans vintage kuno yang menggambarkan model kuno Levi, Anda mungkin berminat dengan produk jenama ini. Walaupun syarikat TCB didirikan tidak terlalu lama, seluar jeans menggunakan proses sensitif pemilihan denim dan perincian yang dekat dengan seluar jeans dari tahun  50’an atau 60’an.

 

TCB JEANS
50’S

TCB JEANS
50’S

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dalam pengeluaran model jeans ini, kapas Zimbabwe katun panjang dan nada gelap indigo digunakan untuk memodelkan pendekatan jeans 50s kuno. Bahagian selvedge menggunakan benang merah jambu yang terang, hampir sama dengan seluar jeans vintaj asal zaman itu.

TCB JEANS 60’S

TCB JEANS 60’S

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jeans dibezakan oleh nada denim yang lebih cerah, menghampiri model jeans 60’an. Ia dihasilkan dengan denim dari kapas Amerika dari ladang San Joaquin. Benang merah jambu klasik juga ditenun di selvedge.

Selvedge adalah perincian yang jelas dan tradisional denim klasik di mana pengeluar sentiasa mahu menekankan reka bentuk terperinci ini. Seperti yang dapat kita lihat, sebagai tambahan kepada denim dan Selvedge dengan tenunan kapas, seluar jeans Jepun mempunyai butiran dan nuansa yang berbeza di mana kualiti unik pengeluaran Jepun dipupuk dan ditenun dalam pelbagai proses pengeluaran denim.[:ko]셀비지 데님 청바지는 요즘 매우 사랑을 받고 있는 제품입니다. 셀비지 데님 청바지 가장자리에 짜여진 색실은 청바지의 품질과 전통적인 생산 방법을 나타내는 일종의 “식별 표시”입니다.

청바지는 전세계에서 사랑을 받고 있는 필수 아이템으로 자리잡은 것은 우리 모두 알고 있으며, 셀비지 데님 진은 특히 엄격하게 고품질의 제품을 강조하는 일본 제조 기업들로부터 제조되어 왔습니다. 이러한 청바지 품질은 셀비지 데님만 사용한 청바지와 비교하더라도 큰 차이가 있으며, 고가의 “수제” 방식으로 생산된 고품질의 일본 청바지는 대량으로 생산되는 대중 청바지들과 비교조차 될 수 없습니다.

이번 글에서는, 청바지의 품질과, 그들이 제조한 제품 품질과 명성을 가치로 여기는 제조업체들에 대해서 이야기를 해드리려고 합니다.

먼저, 셀비지 생산 방법에 대해 말씀드리자면, 셔틀 타입의 오래된 직조 기계는 데님의 매우 좁은 띠만 직조할 수 있습니다. 실제 가장자리에 남겨진 가장자리는 자를 필요가 없어 특별히 휘갑치기 처리를 하였습니다 (현대 대량 생산과 같음). 예전에는 가장자리 마무리를 위해 올이 풀림을 막기 위한 특유의 박음질을 하게 되었고,  이 박음질은 현재 셀비지의 특징으로 사랑을 받고 있습니다.

데님 롤의 가장자리에 짠 색실은 해당 데님을 제조한 제조업체를 구별하는 주요 방법이었습니다. Levi’s의 경우, 레드 혹은 핑크 색상의 실인 반면에, Lee는 블루색상, Wrangler의 경우 오렌지 색의 롤이 가장자리에 짜여 있습니다.

오늘날의 일본 제조업체들은 미국의 클래식한 방법을 복제하려고 하지 않습니다. (물론, 클래식한 레프로 진은 여전히 사라지지 않고 존재하고 있지만요.) 또한, 이는 어떤 의미적인 메시지를 가장자리의 실에 적용하여 전달하기도 합니다.

Oni Denim

Oni는 항상 데님 그 자체, 독특한 질감, 그들만의 채색 방법 및 아름다운 페이딩을 강조합니다. Oni 는 또한 셀비지에 짜여진 다른 색상의 실을 사용합니다.

다음과 같이 예를 몇가지 들 수 있습니다.

 

ONI-622NXX 17OZ 새로운 XX 로우 텐션 슬럽 데님 릴렉스 테이퍼

ONI-622NXX 17OZ NEW XX LOW TENSION SLUB DENIM RELAX TAPERED

Oni의 NXX 데님은 상대적으로 최근에 출시되었습니다. 주 차이점은 약간 더 높은 밀도인 17OZ 이라는 것입니다. 이러한 데님의 특징은 어둡고 강렬한 인디고 색상과 질감이 작은 수직 “줄무늬”로 표현되어 매우 밀도가 높습니다. 밝은 레드 색상의 실이 밝은 화이트 셀비지에 짜여져 있습니다. 청바지 입는 것을 선호하는 사람들을 위해, 인상적이고 아름답게 보일 수 있도록, 화이트와 레드, 다크 인디고 색상은 강하게 대조가 됩니다. 동시에, 레드 색상의 실은 좀 더 고전적이고 쉽게 알아볼 수 있습니다.

 

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ 네츄럴 인디고 레귤러 스트레이트

ONI DENIM 575 22OZ NATURAL INDIGO REGULAR STRAIGHT

이 제조업체의 가장 많은 시간을 소비하게 하는 데님 중 하나인 Oni 의 유명한 가부키 데님, 이 데님은 매우 높은 밀도 이외에도 인디고 식물의 잎을 기본으로 하는 천연 염료로 염색이 됩니다.  가부키의 이름도 우연이 아니죠. 블랙, 오렌지, 그린 컬러의 가장자리에 짜여진 셀비지는 고전 일본 가부키의 커튼 색상을 그대로 반영한 매우 특별한 공물입니다.

 

ONI-575DGC 20OZ 딥 그린 캐스트 로우 테년 세미-타이트 스트레이트

ONI-575DGC 20OZ DEEP GREEN CAST LOW TENSION SEMI-TIGHT STRAIGHT

Oni  DGC (Dark Green Cast) 데님은 그린 색상이 매우 흥미롭습니다. 이 색상은 염료에 황화물을 첨가하여 얻을 수 있습니다. 셀비지에서는 오래된 빈티지 청바지에서 찾아볼 수 있는 핑크 색상의 실이 여기에 짜여져 있습니다.

 

ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ 씨크릿 블랙 데님 릴렉스 테이퍼

ONI DENIM ONI-622ZR-BKBK 20OZ SECRET BLACK DENIM RELAX TAPERED [PRE-ORDER] STOCK DATE: OCT.31
마지막으로, 제일 최신의 데님, 울트라 슬러비 씨크릿 데님은 완전한 블랙 색상입니다. 사실은 이 데님은 보이는 것과는 달리 간단하지 않습니다. 씨실은 더 영구적인 염료로 인해 의도적으로 착색함으로, 페이딩이 되어 더 대조되는 블랙 색상으로 나타납니다. 셀비지 가장자리 자체도 블랙 컬러의 바탕으로 매우 인상적인 레드-화이트 색상을 가지고 있습니다.

 

Samurai Jeans

이 청바지 브랜드의 대부분의 모델은 매우 밀도가 높은 하드 데님과 재미있는 디테일로, 표현할 수 없는 카리스마와 매력을 가지고 있습니다. 그 중 일부는 미국 클래식한 청바지의 유산이며, 일부는 일본 문화가 반영되어 있습니다.

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX19OZ 타이트 스트레이트 셀비지 데님

< a href=”https://blog.denimio.com/samurai-jeans-s710xx19oz-tight-straight-selvage-denim.htm”>Samurai jeans의 710번째 모델은 고전적이고 가장 유명하며, 고대 일본 전사의 성격과 정신처럼 신뢰할 수 있고 견고한 칼날처럼 내구성이 짜여져 있습니다.Samurai jeans 의 가장 고전적인 모델의 특징은 실버 직물에 짜여진 실버 실입니다. 이는 날카롭고 강한 사무라이 검을 상징하고 있습니다.

 

SAMURAI JEANS
S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ 타이트 스트레이트 리미티드 모델

SAMURAI JEANS S710XX24OZ-II 24OZ TIGHT STRAIGHT LIMITED MODEL

청바지에 더 세밀함을 원하세요? 여기에 24OZ 데님 버전 이 있습니다. 클래식한 19OZ 모델보다 선명한 슬러브를 지닌 더 많은 질감과 부드롭고 퍼지한 데님과는 다릅니다. 또한, 셀비지는 피로 뒤덮인 칼날을 상징하는 레드 컬러와 은색 실로 짜여 있습니다.

 

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ 슬림 스트레이트 진

SAMURAI JEANS
S0110XJIINS 17OZ SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

아마도 Samurai- 의 가장 전형적인 청바지 모델과는 거리가 멀고, 제일 흥미로운 제품 중의 하나로 오래된 Lee 청바지 디자인 느낌이 나는데요. 여기서 저희는 데님(LHT)의 왼손 직조와 밝은 인디고 쉐이드를 사용합니다. Lee에서 역사적으로 행해진 것처럼, 푸른 실이 진흙흐름의 슬러그에 짜여져 있습니다.

 

Momotaro Jeans

Momotaro 는 또한 일본 청바지의 가장 유명한 제조 업체 중 하나입니다. 앞서 언급 한 Samurai 와 달리, 이 청바지는 보통 평균 밀도와 부드러운 질감을 가지고 있습니다. 더 상세하게는, 이는 브랜드의 상징인, 복숭아를 상징으로 하거나 또는 그 외의 다른 요소로 인한 것으로 추적될 수 있습니다.

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ 빈티지 라벨 ‘ 15.7OZ 클래식 타이트 스트레이트

MOMOTARO JEANS
0701 ‘ VINTAGE LABEL ‘ 15.7OZ CLASSIC TIGHT STRAIGHT

빈티지 라벨 시리즈에서 가장 유명한고 인기있는 모델 중 하나입니다. 이 시리즈는 매우 어두운 인디고 색상과 빈티지 청바지를 모방하여 클래식한 디테일을 특징으로 하고 있습니다. 셀비지에는, 복숭아를 상징하는 분혹색 실이 짜여져 있습니다.

 

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ 아이코닉 테이퍼

MOMOTARO JEANS X DENIMIO DE002 14.7OZ ICONIC TAPERED

이 청바지는 Momotaro jeans 와 Denimio가 협력하여 제작한 결실입니다. 이 모델은 특별하게 이 브랜드의 전형적인 특징과는 다른 부분들이 있습니다. 예를 들면, 셀비지의 경우, 핑크 색상이 아닌 올리브 색상의 실이 사용되었습니다.

 

TCB

Levi’s의 오래된 타이머와 매우 흡사한 오래된 빈티지 청바지에 관심이 있다면, 아마도 여러분은 이 작은 브랜드에도 관심을 가지게 될지도 모릅니다. TCB 회사는 오래되지 않았음에도,청바지는 50년대 또는 60년대의 청바지에 매우 근접한 데님 및 디테일로 표현하여 구별되고 있습니다.

TCB JEANS
50년대

TCB JEANS
50’S

이 모델의 생산을 위해서는, 긴 섬유의 짐바브웨 면과 다소 어두운 인디고 색상이 오래된 50년대 청바지 모델과 유사하게 만들어지도록 사용됩니다. 셀비지에서는 옅은 핑크색 실로 짜여있으며, 그 기간동안 보존된 빈티지 청바지와 매우 유사하다는 것을 찾아보실 수 있습니다.

 

TCB JEANS 60’S

TCB JEANS 60’S

이 청바지는 60년대 청바지에 가까운 약간 밝은 색의 데님을 특징으로 하고 있습니다. 샌 호아킨 (San Joaquin) 농장의 미국 코튼 데님과 같은 데님으로 묶여 있습니다. 클래식한 핑크 색상의 실이 또한 셀비지에 짜여져 있습니다.

 

셀비지는 클래식한 데님 중 가장 눈에 띄고 전통적인 디테일입니다. 제조업체들은 항상 이 디테일에 대해 강조를 하고 있습니다. 우리가 살펴본 것처럼, 데님과 셀비지에 실을 짜 넣은 것 외에도 일본 청바지는 일반 청바지와는 훨씬 다른 디테일을 가지고 있으며, 이는 결국, 동일하고 독특한 일본 품질이 만들어지고 수많은 데님 제조업체들을 통해 직조되고 있습니다.[:]