Tanuki Inc. Japan – Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 review
2018/11/24 ~ INDIGOSHRIMP
Regular readers of this blog will know that I’ve been keeping up with the developments at Tanuki Inc. over the past two years. Back when I reviewed their Retro Regular RR1 jeans, Tanuki was just taking its first steps in markets outside Japan. In a remarkably short span of time, Tanuki has consolidated its status as a major Japanese denim brand, releasing ever improving fits and further developing interesting denim fabrics. Such has been the brand’s ascendancy, among the denim circles outside of Japan, Tanuki is perhaps commanding much more presence and attention compared to old-time Japanese denim stewards.
Indeed, the folks at Tanuki have seemingly captured the zeitgeist of specialty denim in the past year or so. From my conversations with various retailers and reps, Tanuki’s offerings have been some of the best-selling in the past 18 months. This poses an interesting question: Why has Tanuki succeeded, while many denim new-starts have floundered and a few old-guards are fading away?
Rather than doing a simple garment review today, I’m hoping to explore some of the changes in our denim hobby over the years through the examination of Tanuki’s KJKT3 – Levi’s Type 3 jacket reproduced in Tanuki’s own 13 oz Kaze denim. Let’s rant and ramble!
The History & The Cut
The blueprint of the KJKT3 is based on Levi’s famous Type 3 Jacket, which was birthed in 1962 as the 557XX. The Type 3 is perhaps the most iconic denim jacket of all time and was a first for Levi’s in terms of being made as a “slim fit” jacket and utilizing a heavier 14 oz fabric, beefed up from the usual 8 to 9 oz fair for jackets commonly used during the decades prior.
Tanuki at the Uyuni salt flat in Bolivia.
Tanuki’s take on Type 3, as expected, is not a pure reproduction. The KJKT3 is more of an update – keeping the fit relatively similar in the body (medium fit by today’s standards) and adding increased length to the jacket.
Since the first release of the KT jacket series, Tanuki has further altered some lines on the jacket. Most significantly the front chest pockets are more slanted and shapely, now asymmetrical.
Importantly, the KJKT3 has upgraded the Type 3 design with welted hand-warmer pockets and inner pockets on both sides. This is a serious upgrade to storage capacity and user friendliness.
Miles of pure white salt, so you can see the blues a bit better!
I am 185 cm and 92 kg in the photos here, wearing a size 44, which is currently the largest size being produced. The jacket is spacious enough for 2 or even 3 thinner layers to be worn beneath it, as I’m doing in some of the photos here.
After three weeks of testing, the KJKT3 proved to be very comfortable during extended days of outdoor activities.
The Denim
The Kaze denim is one of Tanuki’s new releases of 2018 and is available as once-washed denim.
Literally translated as “wind” from Japanese, the Kaze is a stand-out due to its unusual shade of indigo.
Colour under cold sunlight.
At 13 oz unsanforised, the Kaze is the headline of Tanuki’s light-weight offerings. It is breathable, medium weight and brilliantly colored.
The lighter shade of indigo is due to a number of different factors, including a decrease in the number of rope dye dips, decrease in the time of each dip and quicker exposure to oxygen after each dip.
This lighter blue reminds me of shelf-stored vintage denim, especially Wrangler and Maverick dead-stock pieces of denim from the 1960s to the 1980’s – I think it’s the slight green cast to the Kaze denim, which mimics the oxidation of indigo (yellow and green shades within blue) with shelf-storage over time.
The green in the blue becomes more prominent under warm sunlight, as you can see in the photo below.
Colour under the warm sunlight.
The denim features a light indigo warp and cheese-dyed beige weft.
The warp side is deceptively irregular, with frequent slubbing of small to moderate sizes. Thanks to the Peruvian Aspero cotton used and the extra low-tension weaving, the handle of this denim is textured but not rough.
The combination of shorter staple Californian cotton and longer staple Supima cotton in the weft creates a balance between crispness and comfort.
On closer inspection, the texture is rather intense.
You’ll see also that the Kaze is not hairy or nappy, leaving nothing to distract from the brilliant warp.
The Details & The Construct
This jacket features updated details, many of which are shared with Tanuki’s current jeans.
Tanuki’s standard deerskin patch is one of the nicest I’ve seen, and from experience, I can vouch for its graceful wear with time.
The Kanji character of ‘two’ features again, this time bar-tacked onto the right shoulder.
Contrast stitching of the patch adds work-style detailing and a touch of ruggedness to the back profile.
In fact, lemon and orange contrast threads have been used for sewing throughout the jacket, similar to the original iterations of Type 3.
Lemon colour threads dominate the body and the lines on the jacket and contrast nicely with the brilliant blue of the denim. Orange coloured threading is used sparingly for the occasional detail and outline.
Dense felled chain-stitch feature throughout in single and dual needle configurations, the seams being neatly folded.
The signature light blue thread has been used along the sides of the jacket and button-holes on the cuffs.
Upgraded custom hardware feature on this jacket – check out the metal Tanuki buttons!
These metal buttons begin to develop patina rather quickly and achieved darker shades of grey on a background of silver.
The backing studs are further customized with ‘Ni’.
In these hardware macros, you’ll get a sense of the colour and texture of the Kaze denim up close, under cold sunlight.
The sewn-then-cut button holes are densely sewn and neatly finished.
As mentioned previously, the pockets are slanted and offset, further streamlining the lines of the jacket.
Welted hand-warmer pockets are a headline feature here.
The sewing of the pockets are neat and tonal, so they remain unobtrusive.
Guess what? The hand-warmer pockets are finished with selvedge to ensure a clean and smooth construction.
The pocket cloth is made with the same shirting-grade herringbone fabric that also features on Tanuki’s newer jeans.
The pocket lining is sewn in such a way that a deep, internal pocket is created on each side of the jacket, further expanding storage capacity.
You’ll have noticed too, more selvedge runs down the facings of the jacket.
Button cinches feature on both sides, in case you want to tuck in the waist.
Finally, the Tanuki woven tab is sewn onto the bottom hem.
All in all, the details are rich but not overwhelming, and the construct is dense but clean.
Thoughts
Tanuki Inc. is barely two years old, and yet this Japanese denim maker has made remarkable progress to date. The launch of their jacket line was merely months ago, but like their denim jeans, Tanuki’s Levis-based jackets have evolved rapidly, with detailing upgrades and fabric updates coming in very quick succession.
As you can see in the photos above, the latest iteration of their KT jacket series is very well made and nicely detailed – the KJKT3 is clean, streamlined and rather catching too!
The sophistication of Tanuki products is commendable for such a young brand, though never have I seen any denim brand being able to access such in-depth fabric customization, pattern development, and multiple collaborations within the first two years of operation. This phenomenal access to resources in what is, traditionally, a very insular industry leads me to believe that influential industry veterans are indeed heavily involved in this brand.
Tanuki’s ongoing and rapid updating of garments based on consumer feedback has broken the mold of Japanese denim brands, which are usually slow response to the demands of the international market. It is this open spirit and a willingness to take risks, I feel, that has allowed Tanuki to take over a good amount of the attention and market share outside of Japan.
The Kaze denim against a backdrop of volcanic rocks in Patagonia.
These shifts in consumer focus represent the last nails on the coffin lid for the reproduction denim trend which had originally kick-started our denim hobby. Reproduction denim, of course, started winding down more than a decade ago in its home nation of Japan. Western interest, fostered through new Internet platforms, has merely prolonged its slow decline. Many of the established Japanese denim brands have long sought inroads to various international markets, though progress has generally been slow. In the past decade or so, only a select number of Japanese brands have managed to build reasonably sized fan-bases overseas… in some cases, there has been conflicted brewing at the core of the identities of these brands, as, ultimately, it is very difficult to export a niche hobby without modifying the products and the associated culture.
Other forces are at play too. Internationally speaking, the concepts and outlook of Americana styles have necessarily begun to change as American soft power diminishes and newer generations of clothing hobbyists are further chronologically removed from the mid-century golden years of Americana. Amekaji has not been immune to this dilution and dissipation of classic American styling.
Further, as the next generation of international denim hobbyists emerges, they are instinctively seeking to differentiate themselves from their forerunners. Whereas once upon a time, reproduction detailing and vintage-inspired silhouettes were de rigueur, many current hobbyists no longer want to be associated with the cliché of cos-playing a cowboy or train-conductor.
Finally, the impractical nature of many aspects of reproduction clothing severely limits the appeal of era-based menswear to the wider audience. Denim dungarees have been the most approachable and popular element of reproduction clothing, given its utilitarian and minimally changing designs, though the audience remains small. Important observations include the failures of Lee and Wrangler reproduction labels over the years, and LVC shifting its focus from pure reproduction to life-style based designs.
Tanuki at Inca salt mines in Peru.
Making this transition from pure Amekaji work-wear to modern denim casual-wear, in order to boost sales and build a consumer base, has not been easy for the established Japanese makers either. Industry folks in Japan are likely well aware of this difficulty, and thus the creation of Tanuki Inc. is not surprising – why make a painful transition when you can start anew? Strip away most of the Americana elements of Japanese denim, which tend to overwhelm and discourage new customers, and combine the traditional crafts of denim making with modern fits & hobbyist detailing. The aesthetics born through this streamlining of denim is much more versatile and approachable and integrates well with almost any style of clothing, including the ubiquitous street-wear.
Of course, the concept described above is not new. Since the early 2010s, dozens of new brands have popped up to take advantage of the ‘raw denim’ trend and a renewed interest in ‘heritage’ menswear, yet only a handful have thrived. In the home of Americana, many newer American denim brands that are catering to the raw denim community have been offering this modernized version of craft denim for some years now, yet very few have reached the benchmark set by Japanese makers. The loss of skill and diminishing manufacturing in most Western nations is an important factor here, of course, the closure of Cone’s White Oak plant being a recent focal point of reflection. The mecca of denim is Japan, and, for the time being, Japanese denim & Japanese jeans reign supreme.
The KJKT3 jacket illustrates some of the above arguments well.
Consider the pattern of the jacket.
The original Type 3, as viewed by modern eyes, while much more aesthetically pleasing and versatile compared with the earlier Types 1 & 2, suffers from the major deficit of carrying capacity. The litmus test of the capacity for any jacket, I would think, is the ability to securely carry a modern smartphone and at least a card wallet – Type 3 fails this test by not being able to accommodate a phone. The chest pockets, at best, might hold a very small wallet or a box of cigarettes.
The KJKT3 blueprint represents a subtle but much-needed upgrade to the original Type 3 which Levi’s created all those years ago. A modernized length and upper torso have toned down what could be a boxy silhouette, and subtle adjustments to the chest pockets and felled seams running down the jacket has produced a sleeker appearance from the front.
Through the addition of welted hand-warmer pockets and the clever sewing of the internal lining fabrics, Tanuki has engineered a Type 3 descendent with not two, not four, but six pockets! Four of these pockets are able to accommodate a smartphone or a full-sized bifold wallet. Keep in mind, this was accomplished without dramatically altering the lines and the fit of the jacket.
This extra carrying capacity cannot be overstated in importance, as it dramatically increases the practicality of this jacket and allows the KJKT3 to function as an all-purpose jacket. On my trip to South America, for example, the KJKT3 comfortably held my wallet, my camera, my phone, snack bars, tickets, and my passport wallet during days of hiking, trekking, climbing, and caving.
The Kaze denim contrasting with Torres del Paine, Chile.
The fabric too, warrants consideration.
Given the number of kick-starter brands popping up in the past few years, many in the hobbyist community are burnt-out on ‘stock’ 14 oz denim, even if they are unsanforised or narrow-loomed. Whereas in the early 2010s, a stock Kaihara or Cone fabric would have sufficed for most denim-heads, given the proliferation of the denim hobby, today’s enthusiasts are looking for more character in their denim. We are now at a stage where many in our community are looking for customized fabrics at all budget tiers, and one could argue that if you’re spending more than two or three hundred dollars on denim, you’d be a fool not to insist on a non-stock fabric.
Tanuki takes this concept one step further: whereas many brands will claim to offer proprietary Japanese fabrics, was in reality only one or two parameters of the denim have been altered from a standard product, Tanuki has engineered each of their denim from the ground up. Kaze denim is no exception.
Compared with other top tier Japanese brands who also offer custom denim, Tanuki has differentiated itself by offering modern versions of craft denim, rather than subtly improved versions of vintage denim. Having developed a wider spectrum of indigo shades and strong but varied textural presentations on each of their fabrics, Tanuki’s core denim is compatible with many more styles of dress, allowing their jeans and jackets to be integrated easily into non-Americana/Amekaji wardrobes.
The unique colour of the Kaze fabric, developed with the colours of vintage Lee and Wrangler denim in mind, has been produced by dramatic alterations to the number and duration of rope-dyeing dips as well as the time to air exposure after each dip. The result mimics the gradual oxidation of denim over decades of storage. This is a concept I find very interesting indeed – blending palatable aspects of distressed, vintage and raw denim. Immediately, a nostalgic shade of indigo can be worn, and yet further fading & evolution is possible!
This bright shade of indigo has another advantage when featured on a jacket- the combination of a denim jacket and jeans becomes less awkward. With the KJKT3, you’ll never feel like you’re wearing a denim tuxedo.
The texture and airiness of the Kaze denim are the results of both weave and cotton selection. The warp yarns are made of bulky & voluminous Peruvian Aspero cotton. The weft is a textured but comfortable combination of short staple Californian cotton and Supima cotton. The weave is set to extra low tension on a Toyota loom, though the density of the fabric is well maintained. The result is a good balance of texture & strength with lightness & permeability, and a hand-feel that is crisp, slightly dry but comfortable.
The Kaze denim compared with one of the purest shades of blue found in nature, on the Perito Moreno glacier.
At 13 oz, the relatively lighter mass of the Kaze denim means that the KJKT3 can be worn within a greater temperature range compared to heavier denim jackets. It may be used as a shell layer for cold weather wear, or simply combined with a T-shirt for pleasant Spring weather. Case in point, see me hiking on a glacier in Patagonia below – the KJKT3 acted as a lightweight nutshell, and performed very well.
All in all, the KJKT3 derives its appeal from the unique shade of indigo and the versatility of the jacket as a whole. Simply speaking, Tanuki’s KJKT3 is a denim jacket that you’d wear much more frequently than your other denim jackets.
To balance all the praise so far, and to nit-pick the KJKT3 a little, I could say that the prominent and unusual colour of the Kaze denim does make it somewhat of ‘one-note’ denim, and as such, the Kaze is best suited to intermediate and advanced level hobbyists. I wouldn’t recommend this fabric if you’re buying your first pair of Japanese jeans, for example, and I’d say something like Tanuki’s Retro or Natural denim would be better starting points. Also, at times, it does feel like the old school Levi’s-style jackets are over-saturating the enthusiast market, so I hope to see Tanuki produce updates of classic Lee and Wrangler/Maverick jackets in the future.
All in all, KJKT3 is highly recommended.
At around $300 USD, the KJKT3 is well priced for a high tier Japan-made denim jacket and has all the bells n’ whistles you’d expect in the $300 to $500 USD price range. It’s slightly less expensive than other Tanuki jackets due to the lighter weight of the Kaze denim compared with other Tanuki fabrics, which are usually 15 to 18 oz.
The Kaze denim would be a great addition to the collection of an experienced enthusiast, due to its great colour and strong texture. It is also a fantastic choice for denim jacket fans, as the bright shade of indigo allows it to be combined with denim jeans much more easily. The KJKT3 jacket pattern incorporates much-needed improvements on the original 557XX pattern, and Tanuki’s line of KT jackets is a must see if you’re in the market for a Type 3.
After reading this product review, you probably have your own perspectives/opinions towards KJKT3 jacket. Leave comments below and share with us your thoughts!
If those features of KJKT3 jacket hit you (we’re pretty sure they do), you can click here to shop now.[:id]Anda mungkin belum melihat salah satu jaket terbaik dari TANUKI: Jaket Kaze blueprint KJKT3, jadi baca ulasan daripada denimhead favorit kami ‘Indigoshrimp’. Ulasan TANUKI: Jaket Kaze blueprint KJKT3 ini untuk membagikan semua detail jaket yang menarik ini dan berharap akan membantu Anda semasa membeli koleksi ini.
Tanuki Inc. Jepang – Ulasan jaket kaze blueprint KJKT3
2018/11/24 ~ INDIGOSHRIMP
Pembaca reguler blog ini mungkin mengetahui bahwa saya selalu mengikuti perkembangan merek Tanuki Inc. dalam dua tahun terakhir. Ketika saya meninjau kembali koleksi jeans regular RR1 Retro, Tanuki baru saja mengambil langkah pertama di pasaran luar Jepang. Dalam waktu yang sangat singkat, Tanuki telah mengkonsolidasikan status sebagai merek denim Jepang utama dan merilis koleksi berkualitas terbaik, dengan fabrik denim yang menarik. Itulah yang menjadi kelebihan merek mereka untuk menarik perhatian kalangan denim di luar Jepang, dimana Tanuki memiliki daya tarik yang lebih tinggi daripada merek denim Jepang lainnya.
Para penghobi Tanuki semakin memahami semangat profesional merek ini dalam setahun terakhir. Dari percakapan saya dengan beberapapengecer dan penjual merek ini, produk Tanuki telah menjadi produk best-seller selama 18 bulan terakhir. Ini menimbulkan pertanyaan menarik: mengapa Tanuki sangat sukses sementara merek denim baru lainnya tidak stabil dan bahkan menghilang dari pasaran denim dunia?
Ini bukanlah ulasan biasa karena kita juga akan bereksplorasi mengenai perubahan tren para penghobi denim seiring mengulas tentang KJKT3 Tanuki – hasil reproduksi jaket Levi’s Tipe 3 dengan denim spesial Kaze dari Tanuki seberat 13 oz.
Ayo, kita mulai!
Sejarah dan cutting
Konsep KJKT3 Tanuki didasarkan kepada Jaket Levi’s Tipe 3 terkenal yang dihasilkan pada tahun 1962 dan dikenal sebagai model 557XX. Jaket tipe 3 merupakan jaket denim paling ikonik sepanjang masa. Jaket Levi’s ini merupakan jaket pertama yang memperkenalkan cutting “slim fit” dengan fabrik 14 oz yang lebih berat dibandingkan dengan jaket biasa lainnya yang memiliki berat 8 hingga 9 oz.
Jaket Tanuki – di atas garam Uyuni, Bolivia.
Tanuki mengikuti desain Tipe 3 ini, namun tentu saja, tidak sepenuhnya. KJKT3 memiliki lebih banyak desain yang terkini – seperti fitting yang sesuai dengan bentuk tubuh Anda (yang dikenal sebagai fit standar) dan telah menambah panjang jaket.
Sejak rilisan pertama koleksi jaket KT, Tanuki telah banyak mengimprovisasi desain jaket ini. Terutama, desain saku dada depan jaket yang sebelumnya memiliki desain yang lebih miring dan kokoh, kini memiliki desain asimetris.
Lebih pentingnya, jaket KJKT3 mengimprovisasi desain Tipe 3 dengan saku penghangat dilengkapi dengan lapisan dalam di kedua sisi saku. Ini merupakan perubahan desain yang meningkatkan kapasitas penyimpanan dan kenyamanan untuk pengena jaket ini.
Di atas garam putih ini, Anda bisa simak warna biru dengan lebih mempesona!
Saya memiliki tinggi 185 cm dan berat 92 kg di foto ini dan mengenakan jaket berukuran 44 yang merupakan ukuran terbesar. Jaket ini memiliki banyak ruang dan saya dapat mengenakan 2 atau bahkan 3 baju tipis di dalamnya, seperti yang ditunjukkan pada foto di atas.
Setelah tiga minggu, KJKT3 terbukti sangat nyaman selama saya aktif beraktivitas.
Denim
Denim Kaze adalah salah satu edisi Tanuki terbaru pada tahun 2018 dan tersedia dalam versi one-washed.
Kaze diterjemahkan sebagai “angin” dari bahasa Jepang yang tampak menakjubkan secara visual dengan warna indigo yang unik.
Warna jaket Kaze di bawah cahaya matahari
Dengan berat 13 oz, Kaze merupakan unsanforised denim yang merupakan produk utama koleksi Tanuki yang ringan: bernapas, memiliki berat medium dengan warna yang indah.
Denim ini memiliki warna yang lebih terang disebabkan oleh berbagai faktor berbeda, termasuk pengurangan jumlah rope-dyed dalam proses pencelupan, pengurangan waktu proses pencelupan dan penyingkapan oksigen yang lebih cepat setelah proses pencelupan.
Warna biru terang ini mengingatkan saya kepada denim vintage, terutama jeans Wrangler dan Maverick dari tahun 1960-an hingga 80-an – dengan warna greencast daripada Kaze denim yang meniru oksidasi warna indigo Kaze (nuansa warna kuning dan hijau di samping warna biru) seiring waktu.
Warna hijau pada warna biru denim ini tampak lebih menonjol di bawah cahaya matahari yang hangat, seperti yang Anda lihat pada foto di bawah ini.
Warna denim di bawah cahaya matahari yang hangat
Denim ini memfiturkan benang warp berwarna indigo muda dan benang weft berwarna beige krem.
Bagian warp memiliki permukaan yang tidak teratur dengan slubs yang berukuran kecil hingga medium. Berkat kapas Aspero Peruvian dan tenunan ketegangan ultra-rendah, denim ini memiliki tekstur tetapi tidak terlalu kasar.
Kombinasi kapas California berserat pendek dan kapas Supima berserat panjang menciptakan keseimbangan yang sangat baik antara tekstur crispy dan kenyamanan.
Tekstur denim yang intens setelah pemeriksaan yang lebih mendetail.
Anda akan menemukan bahwa Kaze tidak memiliki tekstur hairy ataupun neppy pada bagian benang warp.
Detail & Konstruksi
Jaket ini memiliki banyak detail baru dan banyak diantaranya yang memiliki fitur yang identik dengan jeans Tanuki lainnya.
Patch Tanuki kulit rusa standar adalah salah satu yang terbaik yang pernah saya lihat. Dari pengalaman saya bahwa patch ini bisa menjadi elegan seiring waktunya.
Karakter Kanji ‘ni’ difiturkan pada jaket ini dan kali ini, dijahitkan pada bagian bahu kanan jaket ini.
Warna benang penjahitan yang kontras menambahkan detail gaya kerja dan kekokohan dari profil bagian belakang.
Benang berwarna kuning dan jingga yang kontras digunakan untuk menjahit keseluruhan konstruksi jaket, yang merupakan fitur original jaket Tipe 3.
Benang berwarna kuning mendominasi garis pada jaket memberikan efek yang sangat kontras dengan berwarna biru terang denim. Benang berwarna jingga digunakan untuk penekanan detail dan penjahitan tepi.
Dengan menggunakan jarum tunggal dan ganda, hasil chain-stitch pada keseluruhan lapisan jaket memiliki karakter yang padat, sangat rapi dan berkualitas.
Benang berwarna biru muda digunakan di sepanjang penjahitan sisi jaket dan lubang kancing cuffs.
Jaket ini memiliki gaya spesial – simak bagian logam kancing Tanuki berikut!
Kancing logam ini akan menghasilkan hasil patina yang relatif cepat dan mencapai warna kelabu dengan latar belakang berwarna perak gelap.
Kancing belakang juga memiliki simbol ‘ni’.
Dengan detail-detail tersebut, Anda akan memahami bahwa Kaze denim memiliki warna mempesona dan bertekstur di bawah cahaya matahari.
Lubang kancing jaket ini dijahit secara padat dan rapi.
Seperti yang disebutkan sebelumnya, saku jaket ini memiliki desain yang sedikit miring dengan garis jaket yang memiliki bentuk yang lebih sederhana.
Saku penghangat merupakan fitur utama di sini.
Penjahitan saku memiliki rona tunggal, sehingga mereka terlihat teratur dan indah.
Selain itu, saku penghangat jaket ini memiliki detail selvedge untuk menampilkan gaya minimalis.
Fabrik saku jaket ini terbuat daripada fabrik herringbone yang sama dengan material kemeja berkualitas, yang juga merupakan fitur terbaru koleksi Tanuki.
Lapisan saku memiliki penjahitan yang lebih mendalam di setiap sisi jaket untuk menambah ruang penyimpanan.
Anda juga akan memperhatikan lebih banyak karakter selvedge pada sisi jaket ini.
Kancing di kedua sisi mempermudah Anda yang ingin menyelipkan jaket pada jeans Anda.
Akhirnya, tab Tanuki dijahit pada bagian hem.
Secara keseluruhan, detail jaket ini sangat kaya namun tidak berlebihan, dengan struktur padat dan bersih.
Pendapat
Tanuki Inc. telah berdiri di pasaran selama dua tahun dan produsen denim Jepang ini telah membuat kemajuan yang signifikan. Jaket ini baru saja dirilis dengan versi jeans terbaru, dengan improvisasi terperinci dan fabrik terbaru.
Seperti yang dapat Anda lihat di foto di atas, versi terbaru dari koleksi jaket KT ini – KJKT3, memiliki penampilan yang sederhana, ramping dan sangat menarik!
Hasil produksi produk Tanuki patut dipuji sebagai merek yang cukup muda, dimana saya belum pernah melihat merek denim manapun yang mampu menciptakan fabrik spesial yang berkualitas dalam dua tahun pertama sejak merek denim tersebut dibangun, dengan pengembangan model dan berbagai kolaborasi banyak pihak. Saya percaya bahwa hasil yang luar biasa ini dipengaruhi oleh keterlibatan ahli profesional dalam pengembangan produksi merek ini.
Tanuki selalu meningkatkan produk secara cepat berdasarkan respon konsumen, mengungguli model merek denim Jepang lainnya yang merespon permintaan pasar internasional secara perlahan. Semangat dan keberanian mereka untuk mengambil risiko inilah yang membuat Tanuki menerima banyak perhatian dan berhasil menjadi preferensi utama di luar Jepang.
Denim Kaze dengan latar belakang bebatuan vulkanik di Patagonia
Perubahan fokus konsumer kepada denim reproduksi merupakan faktor utama keberhasilan merek ini. Tentu saja, denim reproduksi telah dimulai di Jepang selama lebih dari satu dekade yang lalu. Pasaran denim Barat yang dipromosikan secara online memperlambat tren tersebut. Banyak merek denim Jepang yang berupaya memasuki berbagai pasaran internasional, namun memperlihatkan kemajuan yang lambat. Dalam sepuluh tahun terakhir ini, hanya beberapa merek Jepang yang mampu memperoleh basis penggemar yang besar di luar negeri… Dalam beberapa kasus, merek ini telah menimbulkan konflik dalam penentuan identitas merek. Tanpa memodifikasi produk, sangat sulit untuk menemukan basis penggemar yang menyukai denim ciptaan lokal Jepang.
Faktor-faktor lainnya juga mempengaruhi pasar internasional. Konsep dan pandangan gaya Amerika mulai berubah dengan melemahnya tren penampilan Amerika. Penghobi denim dari generasi baru tidak lagi tertarik kepada pakaian dari abad pertengahan Amerika ini. Tren gaya Amekaji juga dipengaruhi dan mulai menghilang seperti tren gaya klasik Amerika ini.
Selain itu, ketika generasi penggemar denim global muncul, mereka berusaha untuk membedakan diri dari merek pendahulu mereka. Walau pada suatu waktu, detail reproduksi dan siluet vintage menginspirasi produksi produk terbaru, banyak penggemar saat ini yang tidak lagi menginginkan gaya klasik seperti klise denim seorang koboi atau konduktor kereta.
Pada akhirnya, pakaian reproduksi menjadi tren yang tidak realistis dengan daya tarik yang semakin terbatas. Denim dungaree menjadi tren yang populer, dengan kepraktisan dan desain yang minimalis, dengan basis penggemar yang masih kecil. Observasi penting yang dapat diperhatikan termasuk kegagalan label reproduksi Lee dan Wrangler dalam beberapa tahun terakhir ini, dimana LVC mengalihkan fokus dari penyalinan murni produk reproduksi ke desain baru yang mengutamakan desain gaya hidup.
Tanuki di lahan garam Inca, Peru
Untuk mempromosikan penjualan dan menarik perhatian konsumen, transisi dari pakaian kerja Amekaji murni ke pakaian kasual denim modern bukanlah hal yang mudah bagi produsen Jepang. Para pengrajin profesional industri Jepang menyadari kesulitan ini, jadi kreasi terbaru dari Tanuki Inc. bukanlah hal yang mengejutkan – mengapa Anda membuat perubahan model yang rumit ketika Anda dapat menciptakan model yang baru? Lupakan elemen bergaya Amerika dari denim Jepang yang menghambat ketertarikan pelanggan baru, dan gabungkanlah keahlian tradisional denim dengan gaya modern dan segala detail yang sesuai dengan keingginan penggemar. Estetika yang diciptakan oleh inovasi terbaru ini lebih fleksibel dan mudah dipadankan dengan pakaian apapun, termasuk dengan gaya streetwear.
Tentu saja, konsep di atas bukanlah hal baru. Sejak awal tahun 2010, puluhan merek baru bermunculan seiring perkembangan tren “raw denim” dan minat terhadap pakaian “tradisional” pria, tetapi hanya sedikit yang bertahan di pasaran. Di Amerika, banyak merek denim terbaru yang melayani komunitas denim dengan menawarkan jeans berkerajinan modern iselama bertahun-tahun, tetapi hanya sedikit dari mereka yang telah mencapai standar kualitas yang ditetapkan oleh pengrajin Jepang. Di sebagian besar negara Barat, penurunan ilmu teknologi dan jumlah produsen denim merupakan alasan utama hal tersebut. Selain itu, penutupan pabrik White Oak Cone merupakan pengaruh utama yang dapat disimak baru-baru ini. Tempat produksi murni denim dunia adalah Jepang, dan saat ini, kualitas denim dan jeans Jepang menempati posisi tertinggi.
Jaket KJKT3 menggambarkan beberapa argumen di atas dengan baik.
Pola jaket
Menurut penghobi modern, jaket original tipe 3 memiliki nilai estetik yang lebih menarik dan lebih fungsional dibandingkan dengan jaket Tipe 1 dan 2 sebelumnya, namun tanpa kapasitas yang mendukung. Kapasitas jaket yang menjadi ekspetasi standar yaitu pemuatan ponsel dan setidaknya satu dompet – jaket Tipe 3 ini tidak memiliki kapasitas ini karena tidak dapat memuat telepon. Saku dada setidaknya dapat memuat dompet kecil atau sekotak rokok.
Konsep jaket KJKT3 ini berasal dari peningkatan jaket Tipe 3 yang telah diproduksi bertahun-tahun sebelumnya. Panjang yang telah dimodernisasi dan bagian atas jaket telah disederhanakan menjadi bentuk persegi, dan penyesuaian saku dada dengan penjahitan di sepanjang jaket yang menghasilkan penampilan yang lebih ramping dari depan.
Selain menambahkan saku penghangat dan penjahitan yang rapi pada lapisan internal fabrik, jaket Tanuki Tipe 3 tidak hanya memiliki dua atau empat saku, namun enam saku! Saku ini dapat memuat ponsel atau dompet lipat. Perlu diperhatikan bahwa desain ini dihasilkan tanpa mengubah model dan ukuran jaket secara signifikan.
Kapasitas tambahan ini sangat penting karena ia meningkatkan fungsionalitas jaket KJKT3 sebagai jaket universal. Sebagai contoh, selama perjalanan saya ke Amerika Selatan, KJKT3 mampu memuat dompet, kamera, ponsel, camilan, tiket dan dompet paspor saya selama aktivitas mendaki, trekking, menanjak dan mengeksplorasi gua.
Denim Kaze yang memiliki penampilan kontras dengan Torres del Paine, Chili.
Fabrik dan kualitas
Mengingat banyak merek baru yang telah dirilis dalam beberapa tahun terakhir, banyak komunitas penghobi denim yang meminati denim 14 oz, bahkan jika mereka merupakan denimunsanforised atau memiliki penenunan yang ketat. Pada awal tahun 2010, fabrik Kaihara atau Cone mendominasi minat penghobi denim yang mencari lebih banyak karakter pada denim mereka. Banyak penghobi di komunitas kami meminati fabrik istimewa dengan harga yang terjangkau. Beberapa orang berpendapat jika Anda menghabiskan dua atau bahkan lebih dari tiga ratus dolar untuk koleksi denim, maka Anda seharusnya mendapatkan fabrik yang sangat spesial.
Tanuki mengambil konsep ini selangkah lebih maju: banyak merek lainnya mengklaim bahwa mereka menawarkan fabrik Jepang yang eksklusif, dimana sesungguhnya hanya satu atau dua fabrik denim yang diubah sepenuhnya dari produk standar. Tanuki merancang setiap fabrik denim dalam semua koleksi mereka secara keseluruhan, tidak terkecuali denim Kaze.
Dibandingkan dengan merek top Jepang lainnya yang juga menawarkan denim custom, Tanuki menonjolkan diri dengan menawarkan denim modern dan bukan denim vintage yang diimprovisasi secara sederhana. Denim Tanuki telah mengembangkan spektrum warna indigo yang lebih bervariasi dengan presentasi tekstur beragam pada setiap fabrik. Denim ini cocok dipadankan dengan berbagai gaya pakaian dan memungkinkan jeans/jaket ini untuk menampilkan gaya non-Americana/Amekaji dengan mudah.
Warna unik fabrik Kaze yang dikembangkan dari warna vintage denim Lee dan Wrangler, telah diproduksi dengan perubahan signifikan dalam jumlah dan durasi pewarnaan dengan teknik pencelupan tali dengan waktu singkat penyingkapan udara. Hasil denim ini meniru oksidasi denim secara bertahap selama beberapa dekade. Ini adalah konsep yang sangat menarik – perpaduan denim original dan denim distressed bergaya vintage. Anda dapat menampilkan warna nostalgia indigo dan mendapatkan efek fading & evolusi yang mempesona!
Warna indigo yang cerah ini memiliki keunggulan lainnya – kombinasi jaket denim dan jeans yang stylish. Dengan KJKT3, Anda tidak akan pernah merasa seakan mengenakan tuksedo denim.
Tekstur dan keringanan denim Kaze merupakan hasil penenunan dan penggunaan kapas berkualitas. Benang warp denim ini terbuat dari kapas Aspero Peruvian yang besar dan tebal. Benang weft ini merupakan kombinasi bertekstur yang nyaman yang dibuat dari kapas California berserat pendek dan kapas Supima. Penenunan denim ini memiliki ketegangan yang sangat rendah yang ditenun menggunakan mesin Toyota. Hasilnya, keseimbangan yang baik di antara tekstur dan kekuatan, serta permukaan yang crispy namun nyaman.
Denim Kaze dibandingkan dengan salah satu warna biru paling murni di alam: gletser Perito Moreno
Dengan berat 13 oz, denim Kaze memiliki berat yang relatif ringan berarti bahwa Kaze dan KJKT3 dapat dikenakan dalam berbagai suhu dibanding dengan jaket denim yang lebih berat. Jaket ini dapat dikenakan dalam cuaca dingin dan juga dipadankan dengan T-shirt dalam musim semi. Misalnya, pada gambar berikut, saya mendaki di gletser Patagonia dimana jaket KJKT3 tampil dengan sangat menarik.
Secara keseluruhan, KJKT3 terlihat unik karena jaket ini berwarna indigo dan memiliki fungsionalitas yang baik. Tentu saja, Tanuki KJKT3 adalah jaket denim yang akan Anda pakai lebih sering daripada jaket denim lainnya.
Saya berpendapat bahwa warna menonjol dan tidak biasa dari jaket KJKT3 membuatnya menjadi denim “one-note” yang cocok dikenakan penghobi denim tingkat menengah dan lanjutan. Jika Anda membeli denim Jepang pertama Anda, saya tidak merekomendasikan denim ini, namun Anda boleh mencoba jeans Retro atau Natural dari Tanuki. Di samping itu, saya merasa bahwa jaket lama Levi’s telah lama ada di dalam pasaran penggemar denim, jadi saya harap bahwa Tanuki akan memperbarui jaket Lee dan Wrangler/Maverick klasik di masa depan.
Kesimpulannya, saya sangat merekomendasikan KJKT3
Jaket KJKT3 dengan harga sekitar US$300 cukup murah sebagai jaket denim Jepang dengan kualitas denim yang sama dengan kisaran harga US$300 hingga US$500. Jaket ini memiliki harga yang sedikit lebih mahal daripada jaket Tanuki lainnya karena Kaze denim memiliki berat yang lebih ringan daripada fabrik Tanuki lainnya (biasanya 15 hingga 18 oz).
Kaze denim akan menjadi koleksi tambahan yang bagus untuk penggemar denim dengan warna yang menarik dan tekstur yang kuat. Ini juga merupakan pilihan yang cocok untuk pecinta jaket denim, karena warna indigo yang cerah membuatnya lebih mudah untuk dipadankan dengan jeans. Pola jaket KJKT3 telah diimprovisasi dengan pola original 557XX dan koleksi jaket KT Tanuki juga seharusnya Anda simak jika Anda meminati jaket Tipe 3.
Setelah membaca ulasan produk ini, Anda mungkin memperoleh perspektif / pendapat Anda sendiri tentang jaket KJKT3. Tinggalkan komentar di bawah dan berbagilah pendapat Anda bersama kami!
Jika detail KJKT3 ini menarik bagi Anda (dan kami yakin ya), silakan klik disini untuk berbelanja sekarang.[:zh]如果您還沒有看過TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 請查看我們最信任的牛仔玩家’Indigoshrimp’的評論。對TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 真实分享這件驚人夾克的所有細節，希望能幫助您輕鬆決定是否要擁有它。
Tanuki Inc. Japan – Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 評論
2018/11/24 ~ INDIGOSHRIMP
這個部落格的讀者一定知道，過去兩年我一直在追蹤Tanuki Inc.的發展。當我回顧他們的Retro Regular RR1 jeans, 牛仔褲時， Tanuki剛在日本以外的市場邁出了第一步。在極短的時間內，Tanuki鞏固其作為日本主要牛仔品牌的地位，發布了不斷改進的款式，並進一步開發了有趣的牛仔面料。這也成為品牌的優勢，在日本以外的牛仔布圈中， Tanuki可能比老式的日本牛仔布品牌具有更多的存在感和受到關注度。
事實上，Tanuki的行家在過去一年左右似乎已經抓住了專業牛仔布的時代精神。從我與各種零售商和銷售代表的談話中，Tanuki 的產品在過去18個月中一直是暢銷產品。這提出了一個有趣的問題：為什麼Tanuki 能成功，而許多牛仔布新品開始動盪，一些老品牌有可能逐漸消失殆盡？
今天，我希望通過評論Tanuki的 KJKT3 – Levi’s Type 3夾克復刻與Tanuki自己的13盎司Kaze牛仔布，讓今天不只是簡單的服裝評論，我希望通過多年來探索牛仔的一些變化。 讓我們深入這個令人期待的變化！
歷史和剪裁The History & The Cut
Tanuki的 KJKT3 的概念是基於Levi著名的Type 3 Jacket，它於1962年作為557XX誕生。 Type 3可能是有史以來最具代表性的牛仔夾克，甚至是Levi’s的第一款，作為“修身”夾克，並採用較重的14盎司面料，從通常的8到9盎司的是幾十年前比較常見的夾克。
Tanuki 於烏尤尼鹽沼(Uyuni salt flat) 玻利維亞拍攝
正如預期的那樣，Tanuki對Type 3的看法並不是純粹的再現。 The KJKT3擁抱更多新呈現 – 如身體的貼合度（符合當今預期的中等方式）且增加夾克的長度。
自從KT夾克系列首次發布以來Tanuki 進一步改變了夾克上的一些線條。 最顯著的是，前胸袋更傾斜且更整齊，現在則是不對稱。
重要的是，KJKT3升級Type 3設計，兩側設有帶可放置手的口袋和內袋。 這是對有放置空間需求的粉絲一個大改版。
綿延數里的白色鹽，更襯托藍色的美麗
Miles of pure white salt, so you can see the blues a bit better!
照片裡的我是185公分和92公斤、穿上尺寸44，這是目前生產的最大尺寸。 這件夾克空間很多，可以穿裡面多2層甚至3層，就像我照片中所呈現。
經過三週的測試，KJKT3在長時間的戶外活動中證明非常舒適。
丹寧布The Denim
Kaze牛仔布是 Tanuki2018年的新版本之一，One Washed牛仔布。
Kaze字面意思是日本人的“風”，視覺上明顯會為其獨特的靛藍色感到驚艷。
冬天陽光下的顏色 Colour under cold sunlight.
在13盎司未經脫漿的情況下，Kaze是Tanuki輕量級產品的重頭戲： 透氣，中等重量，色彩美麗。
較淺的靛藍色是由於許多不同因素造成的，包括繩索染料浸漬次數的減少，每次浸漬時間的減少以及每次浸漬後更快地暴露於氧氣。
這款淺藍色讓我想起了貨架上存放的復古牛仔布，特別是從20世紀60年代到80年代的牧馬人和Maverick牛仔褲 – 我認為它是Kaze牛仔布的輕微綠色，模仿靛藍的氧化（稍微呈現黃色和綠色經過時間推移，甚至是氧化的結果）。
在溫暖的陽光下，藍帶綠色稍微突出，如下圖所示。
暖陽下的顏色 Colour under the warm sunlight.
牛仔布採用淺靛藍經紗和奶酪色米色緯紗。
經紗側面看似不規則，經常有小到中等大小的粗紗。 由於採用了秘魯Aspero棉和超低張力編織，這款牛仔布的手感有紋理但不粗糙。
較短的主軸加州棉和較長的主要Supima棉在緯紗中的組合在硬挺和舒適之間創造絕佳平衡。
靠近一看，質感相當緊實 On closer inspection, the texture is rather intense.
你也會發現Kaze沒有毛茸感或竹節，沒有任何東西可在傑出的經線看的見。
細節和結構The Details & The Construct
這款夾克享有許多最新細節設計，其中許多與Tanuki現有的牛仔褲相同。
Tanuki的標準鹿皮皮標是我見過最好的之一，從經驗來看，我可以期待隨著時間保證它能夠優雅的呈現。
“二”的漢字再次被放入設計，這次是呈現於右肩上。
具有對比的車針線為背面增添了工作風的細節和粗獷感。
實際上，檸檬和橙色對比色用於整件夾克的縫製，與Type 3原始款相似。
檸檬色線條視軀幹和夾克上的主要線條，與牛仔布的亮藍色有著鮮明對比。橙色車線偶爾在凸顯細節和輪廓時使用。
在單針和雙針雙重使用中，整件外套的鍊式針跡密集，非常整齊且完好的製作。
具有標誌性的淺藍色線沿著夾克的兩側和用來車縫鈕扣孔。
這件夾克更有了品牌自製的樣式 – 看看金屬做
Tanuki 鈕扣!
這些金屬鈕扣想必會因為磨損出現銅綠，在帶有銀色底色展現深色調
背面的樣式也訂制成’二 (Ni)’的樣式。
在這些細節，您可以在陽光下仔細觀察Kaze丹寧的顏色和質地。
從縫製到剪裁，鈕扣孔非常密集又整齊。
如前面所說，口袋稍微傾斜並有點偏，讓夾克的線條更加簡約。
這款特殊設計包括可放置手的保暖口袋。
口袋的縫製使用單一色調的，所以它們仍然低調而美麗。
不只這些？ 暖手口袋帶有布邊，確保樣式順暢又簡單。
口袋布料採用與襯衫相同人字形面料製成，這同樣是Tanuki’新款牛仔褲的特色。
口袋內的縫合方式讓在夾克的每一側都有個偏深的成果增加了可放置的空間。
你也會注意到，夾克的外觀上會有更多的布邊。
兩側帶有鈕扣，就是創造您想要縮口的樣子。
最後， Tanuki編織標籤縫在下擺上。
總而言之，細節豐富但不是壓倒性的，而且結構密集但乾淨。
想法Thoughts
Tanuki Inc.創立至今有兩年的歷史，日本丹寧製造商迄今取得了顯著進步。他們的夾克才剛推出，與他們的牛仔褲一樣，Tanuki的Levis夾克已經迅速發展，細節升級和新面料推陳出新的更快。
正如您在上面的照片中所看到的，他們的KT夾克系列的最新版本製作非常細緻 – KJKT3簡約簡約、流線款而且非常吸引人！
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Tanuki 產品精緻程度對年輕的品牌來說是值得稱讚，儘管我從未見過任何牛仔品牌能夠在運營的前兩年內獲得如此深入的特殊面料，或是得透過模式開發和多方合作。在傳統上，這是個非常孤立的行業，這種非凡資源的取得我相信據有影響力的資深人士參與這個品牌的開發。
Tanuki根據消費者回應持續快速更新單品，打破日本牛仔品牌的模式，有些品牌對國際市場的需求反應緩慢。我認為正是這種開放的精神，以及勇於承擔風險使得Tanuki能夠在日本之外受到大量的關注和喜好度。
在巴塔哥尼亞以火山岩維背景拍下KAZE單寧
The Kaze denim against a backdrop of volcanic rocks in Patagonia.
消費者關注轉變也就是決定了品牌成功與否的關鍵因素，復刻丹寧的趨勢，這最初啟動了牛仔布的愛好。當然，完全複製牛仔布早十多年前日本國內開始逐漸消退。通過新的互聯網平台培養的西方市場趨緩了消退程度。讓許多成熟的日本牛仔品牌一直尋求進軍各種國際市場，雖然緩慢。在過去十年左右的時間裡，僅少數幾個日本品牌能夠在海外建立合理規模的粉絲基數……在某些情況下，這些品牌的核心品牌已經形成衝突，最終，它是在不修改產品和復刻文化的情況，變得很難找到基本品牌愛好者。
其他因素也正在影響國際市場，美國風格的概念和觀點必然會隨著美國軟實力的減弱而開始發生變化，新一代的穿搭者在美國黃金歲月逐步按時間順序被排除在追隨者名單。
此外，隨著下一代全球單寧粉絲出現，他們本能地尋求自己和老派不同。曾幾何時，複製細節和復古風格是必不可少的，許多當前的粉絲不再想要與扮演牛仔或是工裝的這種陳詞濫調被聯想在一起。
最後，復刻服飾在許多方面都變成不切實際、嚴重限制時代性男裝對大眾吸引力。牛仔工裝褲一直是復古中最平易近人且受歡迎的元素，因為它的實用性、細微的設計，儘管粉絲群仍小。包括近年Lee和Wrangler複製款的失敗，LVC將其重點從純粹的複制轉移到基於生活方式的設計。
穿著它去祕魯看印加鹽礦 Tanuki at Inca salt mines in Peru.
為了促進銷售和建立消費者群體，從純粹的Amekaji工作服到現代牛仔休閒服的過渡，對於現有的日本製造商來說也不容易。日本的行業人士可能很清楚這種困難，因此Tanuki Inc.的創建並不令人驚訝 – 為什麼在重新開始時會做出痛苦的轉變？剝離大部分日本牛仔布的美國元素，這些元素往往會壓倒和勸阻新客戶，並將牛仔布製作的傳統工藝與現代風格和愛好者細節相結合。通過精簡牛仔布而產生的美學更加通用和平易近人，幾乎可以與任何風格的服裝完美融合，包括無處不在的街頭服飾。
當然，上述概念並不新鮮。自2010年初以來，已有數十個新品牌湧現，以利用“原始牛仔布”趨勢和對“傳統”男裝的興趣，但只有少數人興旺發達。在Americana的家中，許多為牛仔布社區提供服務的新型美國牛仔品牌已經提供這種現代化的工藝牛仔褲多年，但很少有人達到日本製造商的基準。在大多數西方國家，技術的喪失和製造業的減少是一個重要的因素，當然，Cone的白橡木工廠的關閉是最近的反思焦點。牛仔布的聖地是日本，而目前，日本牛仔褲和日本牛仔褲佔據著至高無上的地位。.
KJKT3 很好地展現上述一些論點。
考慮到夾克的樣式 Consider the pattern of the jacket.
原創的Type 3 雖然與早期的1型和2型相比在美學上更令人愉悅和多樣化，但卻承受著承載能力的巨大不足。我認為，對任何夾克的容量的試金石測試是能夠安全地攜帶現代智能手機和至少一個卡片錢包 – 由於無法容納手機，Type 3無法通過此測試。胸前的口袋最多可放一個非常小的錢包或一盒香煙。
這款 KJKT3 概念來自多年前創造的原始Type 3的微妙但急需的升級。一個現代化的長度和上身軀幹已經減少了可能是一個四四方方的輪廓，胸部口袋的細微調整和沿著夾克流下的砍伐接縫從前面產生了更光滑的外觀。
通過添加貼邊暖手袋和巧妙縫製內襯面料，Tanuki設計了一個Type 3而不是兩個，而不是四個，而是六個口袋！其中四個口袋可容納智能手機或全尺寸雙折錢包。請記住，這是在不顯著改變夾克的線條和合身的情況下完成的。
這種額外的承載能力不能過分誇大其重要性，因為它大大提高了這種夾克的實用性，並使KJKT3 能夠用作通用夾克。例如，在我的南美之旅中，KJKT3 在遠足，徒步旅行，登山和洞穴探險期間舒適地拿著我的錢包，相機，手機，小吃店，門票和護照錢包。
KAZE單寧和智利百內國家公園背景形成對比
The Kaze denim contrasting with Torres del Paine, Chile.
布料本身品質保證
鑑於過去幾年突然出現的啟動品牌數量，業餘愛好者群體中的許多人都在“庫存”14盎司牛仔布上被燒毀，即使他們沒有得到補救或者是狹窄的。然而在2010年初，鑑於牛仔布愛好的激增，一條原裝Kaihara或Cone面料對於大多數牛仔布頭來說已經足夠了，今天的愛好者們正在尋找牛仔布的更多特色。我們現在處於一個階段，我們社區中的許多人都在尋找所有預算層級的定制面料，有人可能會說，如果你在牛仔布上花費超過兩三百美元，那麼你就是一個不堅持的傻瓜在非庫存面料上。
Tanuki 將這一概念更進一步：雖然許多品牌聲稱將提供專有的日本面料，但實際上只有一兩個牛仔布參數已經從標準產品中改變，Tanuki從頭開始設計他們的每個牛仔布。 Kaze牛仔布也不例外。
與同樣提供定制牛仔布的其他頂級日本品牌相比，Tanuki通過提供現代版工藝牛仔布而不是微妙改良版復古牛仔布而與眾不同。 Tanuki的核心牛仔佈在每種面料上都開發了更廣泛的靛藍色調和強烈但多樣的紋理表現，與更多款式的連衣裙相容，讓他們的牛仔褲和夾克可以輕鬆融入非Americana / Amekaji衣櫥。
Kaze面料的獨特顏色，考慮到復古Lee和Wrangler牛仔布的顏色，通過對每次浸漬後繩索染色浸漬的次數和持續時間以及空氣暴露時間的顯著改變而產生。結果模仿了牛仔佈在數十年的儲存中逐漸氧化。這是一個我覺得非常有趣的概念 – 融合了苦惱，復古和原始牛仔布的美味。立刻就可以穿上懷舊的靛藍色，並且可以進一步褪色&進化！
這款明亮的靛藍色調在夾克上有另一個優勢 – 牛仔夾克和牛仔褲的組合變得不那麼尷尬了。使用 KJKT3，你永遠不會覺得你穿著牛仔燕尾服。
Kaze牛仔布的質地和透氣性是編織和棉花選擇的結果。經紗由笨重且體積龐大的秘魯Aspero棉製成。緯線是短絨加州棉和Supima棉的質感但舒適的組合。儘管織物的密度得到了很好的保持，但豐田織機上的編織設定為超低張力。結果是質地和強度與輕盈和透氣性之間的良好平衡，以及清爽，略微乾燥但舒適的手感。
佩里托莫雷諾冰川的天然藍色和KAZE丹寧顏色比較起來
The Kaze denim compared with one of the purest shades of blue found in nature, on the Perito Moreno glacier.
在13oz，相對較輕質量的Kaze牛仔布意味著與較重的牛仔夾克相比，Kaze與KJKT3 可以在更大的溫度範圍內穿著。它可以用作寒冷天氣的外殼層，或者簡單地與T卹結合使用以適應寒冷的春天。舉個例子，看到我在巴塔哥尼亞冰川下徒步旅行–KJKT3充當輕量級堅果殼，表現非常出色。
總而言之，KJKT3 從獨特的靛藍色和整體夾克的多功能性中獲得了吸引力。簡單地說，TanukiKJKT3 KJKT3是一件牛仔夾克，你將會穿的比其他牛仔夾克要頻繁得多。
為了平衡到目前為止的所有讚譽，並且稍微挑選KJKT3，我可以說Kaze牛仔布的突出和不尋常的顏色確實使它有點“單一”牛仔布，因此，Kaze是最適合中級和高級愛好者。如果您購買第一條日本牛仔褲，我不會推薦這種面料，我會說像Tanuki的Retro或Natural牛仔褲這樣的東西會更好。此外，有時候，感覺老派Levi’s式夾克過度飽和了發燒友市場，所以我希望Tanuki能夠在未來更新經典的Lee和Wrangler / Maverick夾克。
總而言之，強烈推薦 KJKT3
售價約為300美元的KJKT3 ，價格合理，適合高級日本製造的牛仔夾克 並且在300美元至500美元的價格範圍內，您可以期待所有的哨聲。它比其他Tanuki夾克略貴，因為與其他Tanuki織物（通常為15至18盎司）相比，Kaze牛仔布的重量更輕。
Kaze牛仔布由於其出色的顏色和強烈的質感，將成為經驗豐富的愛好者的一個很好的補充。它也是牛仔夾克愛好者的絕佳選擇，因為明亮的靛藍色調使其更容易與牛仔褲結合。 KJKT3 夾克圖案在原有的557XX圖案上加入了急需的改進，而Tanuki’的KT夾克系列是必須看到的，如果你在市場上的Type 3。
看完產品評論後，您可能對 KJKT3夾克有自己的看法/意見。在下面留下評論並與我們分享您的想法！
如果這些細節KJKT3吸引你(我們相信它們對你有吸引力), 點擊此處入手吧.[:de]If you haven’t take a look at one of the best jackets from TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3, check out the review from one of our favorite denim head fellow ‘Indigoshrimp’. This well-done review of TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 shares all details of this amazing jacket and hopefully, will help you to decide easily if you are going to get it.
Tanuki Inc. Japan – Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 review
2018/11/24 ~ INDIGOSHRIMP
Regular readers of this blog will know that I’ve been keeping up with the developments at Tanuki Inc. over the past two years. Back when I reviewed their Retro Regular RR1 jeans, Tanuki was just taking its first steps in markets outside Japan. In a remarkably short span of time, Tanuki has consolidated its status as a major Japanese denim brand, releasing ever improving fits and further developing interesting denim fabrics. Such has been the brand’s ascendancy, among the denim circles outside of Japan, Tanuki is perhaps commanding much more presence and attention compared to old-time Japanese denim stewards.
Indeed, the folks at Tanuki have seemingly captured the zeitgeist of specialty denim in the past year or so. From my conversations with various retailers and reps, Tanuki’s offerings have been some of the best-selling in the past 18 months. This poses an interesting question: Why has Tanuki succeeded, while many denim new-starts have floundered and a few old-guards are fading away?
Rather than doing a simple garment review today, I’m hoping to explore some of the changes in our denim hobby over the years through the examination of Tanuki’s KJKT3 – Levi’s Type 3 jacket reproduced in Tanuki’s own 13 oz Kaze denim. Let’s rant and ramble!
The History & The Cut
The blueprint of the KJKT3 is based on Levi’s famous Type 3 Jacket, which was birthed in 1962 as the 557XX. The Type 3 is perhaps the most iconic denim jacket of all time and was a first for Levi’s in terms of being made as a “slim fit” jacket and utilizing a heavier 14 oz fabric, beefed up from the usual 8 to 9 oz fair for jackets commonly used during the decades prior.
Tanuki at the Uyuni salt flat in Bolivia.
Tanuki’s take on Type 3, as expected, is not a pure reproduction. The KJKT3 is more of an update – keeping the fit relatively similar in the body (medium fit by today’s standards) and adding increased length to the jacket.
Since the first release of the KT jacket series, Tanuki has further altered some lines on the jacket. Most significantly the front chest pockets are more slanted and shapely, now asymmetrical.
Importantly, the KJKT3 has upgraded the Type 3 design with welted hand-warmer pockets and inner pockets on both sides. This is a serious upgrade to storage capacity and user friendliness.
Miles of pure white salt, so you can see the blues a bit better!
I am 185 cm and 92 kg in the photos here, wearing a size 44, which is currently the largest size being produced. The jacket is spacious enough for 2 or even 3 thinner layers to be worn beneath it, as I’m doing in some of the photos here.
After three weeks of testing, the KJKT3 proved to be very comfortable during extended days of outdoor activities.
The Denim
The Kaze denim is one of Tanuki’s new releases of 2018 and is available as once-washed denim.
Literally translated as “wind” from Japanese, the Kaze is a stand-out due to its unusual shade of indigo.
Colour under cold sunlight.
At 13 oz unsanforised, the Kaze is the headline of Tanuki’s light-weight offerings. It is breathable, medium weight and brilliantly colored.
The lighter shade of indigo is due to a number of different factors, including a decrease in the number of rope dye dips, decrease in the time of each dip and quicker exposure to oxygen after each dip.
This lighter blue reminds me of shelf-stored vintage denim, especially Wrangler and Maverick dead-stock pieces of denim from the 1960s to the 1980’s – I think it’s the slight green cast to the Kaze denim, which mimics the oxidation of indigo (yellow and green shades within blue) with shelf-storage over time.
The green in the blue becomes more prominent under warm sunlight, as you can see in the photo below.
Colour under the warm sunlight.
The denim features a light indigo warp and cheese-dyed beige weft.
The warp side is deceptively irregular, with frequent slubbing of small to moderate sizes. Thanks to the Peruvian Aspero cotton used and the extra low-tension weaving, the handle of this denim is textured but not rough.
The combination of shorter staple Californian cotton and longer staple Supima cotton in the weft creates a balance between crispness and comfort.
On closer inspection, the texture is rather intense.
You’ll see also that the Kaze is not hairy or nappy, leaving nothing to distract from the brilliant warp.
The Details & The Construct
This jacket features updated details, many of which are shared with Tanuki’s current jeans.
Tanuki’s standard deerskin patch is one of the nicest I’ve seen, and from experience, I can vouch for its graceful wear with time.
The Kanji character of ‘two’ features again, this time bar-tacked onto the right shoulder.
Contrast stitching of the patch adds work-style detailing and a touch of ruggedness to the back profile.
In fact, lemon and orange contrast threads have been used for sewing throughout the jacket, similar to the original iterations of Type 3.
Lemon colour threads dominate the body and the lines on the jacket and contrast nicely with the brilliant blue of the denim. Orange coloured threading is used sparingly for the occasional detail and outline.
Dense felled chain-stitch feature throughout in single and dual needle configurations, the seams being neatly folded.
The signature light blue thread has been used along the sides of the jacket and button-holes on the cuffs.
Upgraded custom hardware feature on this jacket – check out the metal Tanuki buttons!
These metal buttons begin to develop patina rather quickly and achieved darker shades of grey on a background of silver.
The backing studs are further customized with ‘Ni’.
In these hardware macros, you’ll get a sense of the colour and texture of the Kaze denim up close, under cold sunlight.
The sewn-then-cut button holes are densely sewn and neatly finished.
As mentioned previously, the pockets are slanted and offset, further streamlining the lines of the jacket.
Welted hand-warmer pockets are a headline feature here.
The sewing of the pockets are neat and tonal, so they remain unobtrusive.
Guess what? The hand-warmer pockets are finished with selvedge to ensure a clean and smooth construction.
The pocket cloth is made with the same shirting-grade herringbone fabric that also features on Tanuki’s newer jeans.
The pocket lining is sewn in such a way that a deep, internal pocket is created on each side of the jacket, further expanding storage capacity.
You’ll have noticed too, more selvedge runs down the facings of the jacket.
Button cinches feature on both sides, in case you want to tuck in the waist.
Finally, the Tanuki woven tab is sewn onto the bottom hem.
All in all, the details are rich but not overwhelming, and the construct is dense but clean.
Thoughts
Tanuki Inc. is barely two years old, and yet this Japanese denim maker has made remarkable progress to date. The launch of their jacket line was merely months ago, but like their denim jeans, Tanuki’s Levis-based jackets have evolved rapidly, with detailing upgrades and fabric updates coming in very quick succession.
As you can see in the photos above, the latest iteration of their KT jacket series is very well made and nicely detailed – the KJKT3 is clean, streamlined and rather catching too!
The sophistication of Tanuki products is commendable for such a young brand, though never have I seen any denim brand being able to access such in-depth fabric customization, pattern development, and multiple collaborations within the first two years of operation. This phenomenal access to resources in what is, traditionally, a very insular industry leads me to believe that influential industry veterans are indeed heavily involved in this brand.
Tanuki’s ongoing and rapid updating of garments based on consumer feedback has broken the mold of Japanese denim brands, which are usually slow response to the demands of the international market. It is this open spirit and a willingness to take risks, I feel, that has allowed Tanuki to take over a good amount of the attention and market share outside of Japan.
The Kaze denim against a backdrop of volcanic rocks in Patagonia.
These shifts in consumer focus represent the last nails on the coffin lid for the reproduction denim trend which had originally kick-started our denim hobby. Reproduction denim, of course, started winding down more than a decade ago in its home nation of Japan. Western interest, fostered through new Internet platforms, has merely prolonged its slow decline. Many of the established Japanese denim brands have long sought inroads to various international markets, though progress has generally been slow. In the past decade or so, only a select number of Japanese brands have managed to build reasonably sized fan-bases overseas… in some cases, there has been conflicted brewing at the core of the identities of these brands, as, ultimately, it is very difficult to export a niche hobby without modifying the products and the associated culture.
Other forces are at play too. Internationally speaking, the concepts and outlook of Americana styles have necessarily begun to change as American soft power diminishes and newer generations of clothing hobbyists are further chronologically removed from the mid-century golden years of Americana. Amekaji has not been immune to this dilution and dissipation of classic American styling.
Further, as the next generation of international denim hobbyists emerges, they are instinctively seeking to differentiate themselves from their forerunners. Whereas once upon a time, reproduction detailing and vintage-inspired silhouettes were de rigueur, many current hobbyists no longer want to be associated with the cliché of cos-playing a cowboy or train-conductor.
Finally, the impractical nature of many aspects of reproduction clothing severely limits the appeal of era-based menswear to the wider audience. Denim dungarees have been the most approachable and popular element of reproduction clothing, given its utilitarian and minimally changing designs, though the audience remains small. Important observations include the failures of Lee and Wrangler reproduction labels over the years, and LVC shifting its focus from pure reproduction to life-style based designs.
Tanuki at Inca salt mines in Peru.
Making this transition from pure Amekaji work-wear to modern denim casual-wear, in order to boost sales and build a consumer base, has not been easy for the established Japanese makers either. Industry folks in Japan are likely well aware of this difficulty, and thus the creation of Tanuki Inc. is not surprising – why make a painful transition when you can start anew? Strip away most of the Americana elements of Japanese denim, which tend to overwhelm and discourage new customers, and combine the traditional crafts of denim making with modern fits & hobbyist detailing. The aesthetics born through this streamlining of denim is much more versatile and approachable and integrates well with almost any style of clothing, including the ubiquitous street-wear.
Of course, the concept described above is not new. Since the early 2010s, dozens of new brands have popped up to take advantage of the ‘raw denim’ trend and a renewed interest in ‘heritage’ menswear, yet only a handful have thrived. In the home of Americana, many newer American denim brands that are catering to the raw denim community have been offering this modernized version of craft denim for some years now, yet very few have reached the benchmark set by Japanese makers. The loss of skill and diminishing manufacturing in most Western nations is an important factor here, of course, the closure of Cone’s White Oak plant being a recent focal point of reflection. The mecca of denim is Japan, and, for the time being, Japanese denim & Japanese jeans reign supreme.
The KJKT3 jacket illustrates some of the above arguments well.
Consider the pattern of the jacket.
The original Type 3, as viewed by modern eyes, while much more aesthetically pleasing and versatile compared with the earlier Types 1 & 2, suffers from the major deficit of carrying capacity. The litmus test of the capacity for any jacket, I would think, is the ability to securely carry a modern smartphone and at least a card wallet – Type 3 fails this test by not being able to accommodate a phone. The chest pockets, at best, might hold a very small wallet or a box of cigarettes.
The KJKT3 blueprint represents a subtle but much-needed upgrade to the original Type 3 which Levi’s created all those years ago. A modernized length and upper torso have toned down what could be a boxy silhouette, and subtle adjustments to the chest pockets and felled seams running down the jacket has produced a sleeker appearance from the front.
Through the addition of welted hand-warmer pockets and the clever sewing of the internal lining fabrics, Tanuki has engineered a Type 3 descendent with not two, not four, but six pockets! Four of these pockets are able to accommodate a smartphone or a full-sized bifold wallet. Keep in mind, this was accomplished without dramatically altering the lines and the fit of the jacket.
This extra carrying capacity cannot be overstated in importance, as it dramatically increases the practicality of this jacket and allows the KJKT3 to function as an all-purpose jacket. On my trip to South America, for example, the KJKT3 comfortably held my wallet, my camera, my phone, snack bars, tickets, and my passport wallet during days of hiking, trekking, climbing, and caving.
The Kaze denim contrasting with Torres del Paine, Chile.
The fabric too, warrants consideration.
Given the number of kick-starter brands popping up in the past few years, many in the hobbyist community are burnt-out on ‘stock’ 14 oz denim, even if they are unsanforised or narrow-loomed. Whereas in the early 2010s, a stock Kaihara or Cone fabric would have sufficed for most denim-heads, given the proliferation of the denim hobby, today’s enthusiasts are looking for more character in their denim. We are now at a stage where many in our community are looking for customized fabrics at all budget tiers, and one could argue that if you’re spending more than two or three hundred dollars on denim, you’d be a fool not to insist on a non-stock fabric.
Tanuki takes this concept one step further: whereas many brands will claim to offer proprietary Japanese fabrics, was in reality only one or two parameters of the denim have been altered from a standard product, Tanuki has engineered each of their denim from the ground up. Kaze denim is no exception.
Compared with other top tier Japanese brands who also offer custom denim, Tanuki has differentiated itself by offering modern versions of craft denim, rather than subtly improved versions of vintage denim. Having developed a wider spectrum of indigo shades and strong but varied textural presentations on each of their fabrics, Tanuki’s core denim is compatible with many more styles of dress, allowing their jeans and jackets to be integrated easily into non-Americana/Amekaji wardrobes.
The unique colour of the Kaze fabric, developed with the colours of vintage Lee and Wrangler denim in mind, has been produced by dramatic alterations to the number and duration of rope-dyeing dips as well as the time to air exposure after each dip. The result mimics the gradual oxidation of denim over decades of storage. This is a concept I find very interesting indeed – blending palatable aspects of distressed, vintage and raw denim. Immediately, a nostalgic shade of indigo can be worn, and yet further fading & evolution is possible!
This bright shade of indigo has another advantage when featured on a jacket- the combination of a denim jacket and jeans becomes less awkward. With the KJKT3, you’ll never feel like you’re wearing a denim tuxedo.
The texture and airiness of the Kaze denim are the results of both weave and cotton selection. The warp yarns are made of bulky & voluminous Peruvian Aspero cotton. The weft is a textured but comfortable combination of short staple Californian cotton and Supima cotton. The weave is set to extra low tension on a Toyota loom, though the density of the fabric is well maintained. The result is a good balance of texture & strength with lightness & permeability, and a hand-feel that is crisp, slightly dry but comfortable.
The Kaze denim compared with one of the purest shades of blue found in nature, on the Perito Moreno glacier.
At 13 oz, the relatively lighter mass of the Kaze denim means that the KJKT3 can be worn within a greater temperature range compared to heavier denim jackets. It may be used as a shell layer for cold weather wear, or simply combined with a T-shirt for pleasant Spring weather. Case in point, see me hiking on a glacier in Patagonia below – the KJKT3 acted as a lightweight nutshell, and performed very well.
All in all, the KJKT3 derives its appeal from the unique shade of indigo and the versatility of the jacket as a whole. Simply speaking, Tanuki’s KJKT3 is a denim jacket that you’d wear much more frequently than your other denim jackets.
To balance all the praise so far, and to nit-pick the KJKT3 a little, I could say that the prominent and unusual colour of the Kaze denim does make it somewhat of ‘one-note’ denim, and as such, the Kaze is best suited to intermediate and advanced level hobbyists. I wouldn’t recommend this fabric if you’re buying your first pair of Japanese jeans, for example, and I’d say something like Tanuki’s Retro or Natural denim would be better starting points. Also, at times, it does feel like the old school Levi’s-style jackets are over-saturating the enthusiast market, so I hope to see Tanuki produce updates of classic Lee and Wrangler/Maverick jackets in the future.
All in all, KJKT3 is highly recommended.
At around $300 USD, the KJKT3 is well priced for a high tier Japan-made denim jacket and has all the bells n’ whistles you’d expect in the $300 to $500 USD price range. It’s slightly less expensive than other Tanuki jackets due to the lighter weight of the Kaze denim compared with other Tanuki fabrics, which are usually 15 to 18 oz.
The Kaze denim would be a great addition to the collection of an experienced enthusiast, due to its great colour and strong texture. It is also a fantastic choice for denim jacket fans, as the bright shade of indigo allows it to be combined with denim jeans much more easily. The KJKT3 jacket pattern incorporates much-needed improvements on the original 557XX pattern, and Tanuki’s line of KT jackets is a must see if you’re in the market for a Type 3.
After reading this product review, you probably have your own perspectives/opinions towards KJKT3 jacket. Leave comments below and share with us your thoughts!
If those features of KJKT3 jacket hit you (we’re pretty sure they do), you can click here to shop now.[:es]If you haven’t take a look at one of the best jackets from TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3, check out the review from one of our favorite denim head fellow ‘Indigoshrimp’. This well-done review of TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 shares all details of this amazing jacket and hopefully, will help you to decide easily if you are going to get it.
Tanuki Inc. Japan – Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 review
2018/11/24 ~ INDIGOSHRIMP
Regular readers of this blog will know that I’ve been keeping up with the developments at Tanuki Inc. over the past two years. Back when I reviewed their Retro Regular RR1 jeans, Tanuki was just taking its first steps in markets outside Japan. In a remarkably short span of time, Tanuki has consolidated its status as a major Japanese denim brand, releasing ever improving fits and further developing interesting denim fabrics. Such has been the brand’s ascendancy, among the denim circles outside of Japan, Tanuki is perhaps commanding much more presence and attention compared to old-time Japanese denim stewards.
Indeed, the folks at Tanuki have seemingly captured the zeitgeist of specialty denim in the past year or so. From my conversations with various retailers and reps, Tanuki’s offerings have been some of the best-selling in the past 18 months. This poses an interesting question: Why has Tanuki succeeded, while many denim new-starts have floundered and a few old-guards are fading away?
Rather than doing a simple garment review today, I’m hoping to explore some of the changes in our denim hobby over the years through the examination of Tanuki’s KJKT3 – Levi’s Type 3 jacket reproduced in Tanuki’s own 13 oz Kaze denim. Let’s rant and ramble!
The History & The Cut
The blueprint of the KJKT3 is based on Levi’s famous Type 3 Jacket, which was birthed in 1962 as the 557XX. The Type 3 is perhaps the most iconic denim jacket of all time and was a first for Levi’s in terms of being made as a “slim fit” jacket and utilizing a heavier 14 oz fabric, beefed up from the usual 8 to 9 oz fair for jackets commonly used during the decades prior.
Tanuki at the Uyuni salt flat in Bolivia.
Tanuki’s take on Type 3, as expected, is not a pure reproduction. The KJKT3 is more of an update – keeping the fit relatively similar in the body (medium fit by today’s standards) and adding increased length to the jacket.
Since the first release of the KT jacket series, Tanuki has further altered some lines on the jacket. Most significantly the front chest pockets are more slanted and shapely, now asymmetrical.
Importantly, the KJKT3 has upgraded the Type 3 design with welted hand-warmer pockets and inner pockets on both sides. This is a serious upgrade to storage capacity and user friendliness.
Miles of pure white salt, so you can see the blues a bit better!
I am 185 cm and 92 kg in the photos here, wearing a size 44, which is currently the largest size being produced. The jacket is spacious enough for 2 or even 3 thinner layers to be worn beneath it, as I’m doing in some of the photos here.
After three weeks of testing, the KJKT3 proved to be very comfortable during extended days of outdoor activities.
The Denim
The Kaze denim is one of Tanuki’s new releases of 2018 and is available as once-washed denim.
Literally translated as “wind” from Japanese, the Kaze is a stand-out due to its unusual shade of indigo.
Colour under cold sunlight.
At 13 oz unsanforised, the Kaze is the headline of Tanuki’s light-weight offerings. It is breathable, medium weight and brilliantly colored.
The lighter shade of indigo is due to a number of different factors, including a decrease in the number of rope dye dips, decrease in the time of each dip and quicker exposure to oxygen after each dip.
This lighter blue reminds me of shelf-stored vintage denim, especially Wrangler and Maverick dead-stock pieces of denim from the 1960s to the 1980’s – I think it’s the slight green cast to the Kaze denim, which mimics the oxidation of indigo (yellow and green shades within blue) with shelf-storage over time.
The green in the blue becomes more prominent under warm sunlight, as you can see in the photo below.
Colour under the warm sunlight.
The denim features a light indigo warp and cheese-dyed beige weft.
The warp side is deceptively irregular, with frequent slubbing of small to moderate sizes. Thanks to the Peruvian Aspero cotton used and the extra low-tension weaving, the handle of this denim is textured but not rough.
The combination of shorter staple Californian cotton and longer staple Supima cotton in the weft creates a balance between crispness and comfort.
On closer inspection, the texture is rather intense.
You’ll see also that the Kaze is not hairy or nappy, leaving nothing to distract from the brilliant warp.
The Details & The Construct
This jacket features updated details, many of which are shared with Tanuki’s current jeans.
Tanuki’s standard deerskin patch is one of the nicest I’ve seen, and from experience, I can vouch for its graceful wear with time.
The Kanji character of ‘two’ features again, this time bar-tacked onto the right shoulder.
Contrast stitching of the patch adds work-style detailing and a touch of ruggedness to the back profile.
In fact, lemon and orange contrast threads have been used for sewing throughout the jacket, similar to the original iterations of Type 3.
Lemon colour threads dominate the body and the lines on the jacket and contrast nicely with the brilliant blue of the denim. Orange coloured threading is used sparingly for the occasional detail and outline.
Dense felled chain-stitch feature throughout in single and dual needle configurations, the seams being neatly folded.
The signature light blue thread has been used along the sides of the jacket and button-holes on the cuffs.
Upgraded custom hardware feature on this jacket – check out the metal Tanuki buttons!
These metal buttons begin to develop patina rather quickly and achieved darker shades of grey on a background of silver.
The backing studs are further customized with ‘Ni’.
In these hardware macros, you’ll get a sense of the colour and texture of the Kaze denim up close, under cold sunlight.
The sewn-then-cut button holes are densely sewn and neatly finished.
As mentioned previously, the pockets are slanted and offset, further streamlining the lines of the jacket.
Welted hand-warmer pockets are a headline feature here.
The sewing of the pockets are neat and tonal, so they remain unobtrusive.
Guess what? The hand-warmer pockets are finished with selvedge to ensure a clean and smooth construction.
The pocket cloth is made with the same shirting-grade herringbone fabric that also features on Tanuki’s newer jeans.
The pocket lining is sewn in such a way that a deep, internal pocket is created on each side of the jacket, further expanding storage capacity.
You’ll have noticed too, more selvedge runs down the facings of the jacket.
Button cinches feature on both sides, in case you want to tuck in the waist.
Finally, the Tanuki woven tab is sewn onto the bottom hem.
All in all, the details are rich but not overwhelming, and the construct is dense but clean.
Thoughts
Tanuki Inc. is barely two years old, and yet this Japanese denim maker has made remarkable progress to date. The launch of their jacket line was merely months ago, but like their denim jeans, Tanuki’s Levis-based jackets have evolved rapidly, with detailing upgrades and fabric updates coming in very quick succession.
As you can see in the photos above, the latest iteration of their KT jacket series is very well made and nicely detailed – the KJKT3 is clean, streamlined and rather catching too!
The sophistication of Tanuki products is commendable for such a young brand, though never have I seen any denim brand being able to access such in-depth fabric customization, pattern development, and multiple collaborations within the first two years of operation. This phenomenal access to resources in what is, traditionally, a very insular industry leads me to believe that influential industry veterans are indeed heavily involved in this brand.
Tanuki’s ongoing and rapid updating of garments based on consumer feedback has broken the mold of Japanese denim brands, which are usually slow response to the demands of the international market. It is this open spirit and a willingness to take risks, I feel, that has allowed Tanuki to take over a good amount of the attention and market share outside of Japan.
The Kaze denim against a backdrop of volcanic rocks in Patagonia.
These shifts in consumer focus represent the last nails on the coffin lid for the reproduction denim trend which had originally kick-started our denim hobby. Reproduction denim, of course, started winding down more than a decade ago in its home nation of Japan. Western interest, fostered through new Internet platforms, has merely prolonged its slow decline. Many of the established Japanese denim brands have long sought inroads to various international markets, though progress has generally been slow. In the past decade or so, only a select number of Japanese brands have managed to build reasonably sized fan-bases overseas… in some cases, there has been conflicted brewing at the core of the identities of these brands, as, ultimately, it is very difficult to export a niche hobby without modifying the products and the associated culture.
Other forces are at play too. Internationally speaking, the concepts and outlook of Americana styles have necessarily begun to change as American soft power diminishes and newer generations of clothing hobbyists are further chronologically removed from the mid-century golden years of Americana. Amekaji has not been immune to this dilution and dissipation of classic American styling.
Further, as the next generation of international denim hobbyists emerges, they are instinctively seeking to differentiate themselves from their forerunners. Whereas once upon a time, reproduction detailing and vintage-inspired silhouettes were de rigueur, many current hobbyists no longer want to be associated with the cliché of cos-playing a cowboy or train-conductor.
Finally, the impractical nature of many aspects of reproduction clothing severely limits the appeal of era-based menswear to the wider audience. Denim dungarees have been the most approachable and popular element of reproduction clothing, given its utilitarian and minimally changing designs, though the audience remains small. Important observations include the failures of Lee and Wrangler reproduction labels over the years, and LVC shifting its focus from pure reproduction to life-style based designs.
Tanuki at Inca salt mines in Peru.
Making this transition from pure Amekaji work-wear to modern denim casual-wear, in order to boost sales and build a consumer base, has not been easy for the established Japanese makers either. Industry folks in Japan are likely well aware of this difficulty, and thus the creation of Tanuki Inc. is not surprising – why make a painful transition when you can start anew? Strip away most of the Americana elements of Japanese denim, which tend to overwhelm and discourage new customers, and combine the traditional crafts of denim making with modern fits & hobbyist detailing. The aesthetics born through this streamlining of denim is much more versatile and approachable and integrates well with almost any style of clothing, including the ubiquitous street-wear.
Of course, the concept described above is not new. Since the early 2010s, dozens of new brands have popped up to take advantage of the ‘raw denim’ trend and a renewed interest in ‘heritage’ menswear, yet only a handful have thrived. In the home of Americana, many newer American denim brands that are catering to the raw denim community have been offering this modernized version of craft denim for some years now, yet very few have reached the benchmark set by Japanese makers. The loss of skill and diminishing manufacturing in most Western nations is an important factor here, of course, the closure of Cone’s White Oak plant being a recent focal point of reflection. The mecca of denim is Japan, and, for the time being, Japanese denim & Japanese jeans reign supreme.
The KJKT3 jacket illustrates some of the above arguments well.
Consider the pattern of the jacket.
The original Type 3, as viewed by modern eyes, while much more aesthetically pleasing and versatile compared with the earlier Types 1 & 2, suffers from the major deficit of carrying capacity. The litmus test of the capacity for any jacket, I would think, is the ability to securely carry a modern smartphone and at least a card wallet – Type 3 fails this test by not being able to accommodate a phone. The chest pockets, at best, might hold a very small wallet or a box of cigarettes.
The KJKT3 blueprint represents a subtle but much-needed upgrade to the original Type 3 which Levi’s created all those years ago. A modernized length and upper torso have toned down what could be a boxy silhouette, and subtle adjustments to the chest pockets and felled seams running down the jacket has produced a sleeker appearance from the front.
Through the addition of welted hand-warmer pockets and the clever sewing of the internal lining fabrics, Tanuki has engineered a Type 3 descendent with not two, not four, but six pockets! Four of these pockets are able to accommodate a smartphone or a full-sized bifold wallet. Keep in mind, this was accomplished without dramatically altering the lines and the fit of the jacket.
This extra carrying capacity cannot be overstated in importance, as it dramatically increases the practicality of this jacket and allows the KJKT3 to function as an all-purpose jacket. On my trip to South America, for example, the KJKT3 comfortably held my wallet, my camera, my phone, snack bars, tickets, and my passport wallet during days of hiking, trekking, climbing, and caving.
The Kaze denim contrasting with Torres del Paine, Chile.
The fabric too, warrants consideration.
Given the number of kick-starter brands popping up in the past few years, many in the hobbyist community are burnt-out on ‘stock’ 14 oz denim, even if they are unsanforised or narrow-loomed. Whereas in the early 2010s, a stock Kaihara or Cone fabric would have sufficed for most denim-heads, given the proliferation of the denim hobby, today’s enthusiasts are looking for more character in their denim. We are now at a stage where many in our community are looking for customized fabrics at all budget tiers, and one could argue that if you’re spending more than two or three hundred dollars on denim, you’d be a fool not to insist on a non-stock fabric.
Tanuki takes this concept one step further: whereas many brands will claim to offer proprietary Japanese fabrics, was in reality only one or two parameters of the denim have been altered from a standard product, Tanuki has engineered each of their denim from the ground up. Kaze denim is no exception.
Compared with other top tier Japanese brands who also offer custom denim, Tanuki has differentiated itself by offering modern versions of craft denim, rather than subtly improved versions of vintage denim. Having developed a wider spectrum of indigo shades and strong but varied textural presentations on each of their fabrics, Tanuki’s core denim is compatible with many more styles of dress, allowing their jeans and jackets to be integrated easily into non-Americana/Amekaji wardrobes.
The unique colour of the Kaze fabric, developed with the colours of vintage Lee and Wrangler denim in mind, has been produced by dramatic alterations to the number and duration of rope-dyeing dips as well as the time to air exposure after each dip. The result mimics the gradual oxidation of denim over decades of storage. This is a concept I find very interesting indeed – blending palatable aspects of distressed, vintage and raw denim. Immediately, a nostalgic shade of indigo can be worn, and yet further fading & evolution is possible!
This bright shade of indigo has another advantage when featured on a jacket- the combination of a denim jacket and jeans becomes less awkward. With the KJKT3, you’ll never feel like you’re wearing a denim tuxedo.
The texture and airiness of the Kaze denim are the results of both weave and cotton selection. The warp yarns are made of bulky & voluminous Peruvian Aspero cotton. The weft is a textured but comfortable combination of short staple Californian cotton and Supima cotton. The weave is set to extra low tension on a Toyota loom, though the density of the fabric is well maintained. The result is a good balance of texture & strength with lightness & permeability, and a hand-feel that is crisp, slightly dry but comfortable.
The Kaze denim compared with one of the purest shades of blue found in nature, on the Perito Moreno glacier.
At 13 oz, the relatively lighter mass of the Kaze denim means that the KJKT3 can be worn within a greater temperature range compared to heavier denim jackets. It may be used as a shell layer for cold weather wear, or simply combined with a T-shirt for pleasant Spring weather. Case in point, see me hiking on a glacier in Patagonia below – the KJKT3 acted as a lightweight nutshell, and performed very well.
All in all, the KJKT3 derives its appeal from the unique shade of indigo and the versatility of the jacket as a whole. Simply speaking, Tanuki’s KJKT3 is a denim jacket that you’d wear much more frequently than your other denim jackets.
To balance all the praise so far, and to nit-pick the KJKT3 a little, I could say that the prominent and unusual colour of the Kaze denim does make it somewhat of ‘one-note’ denim, and as such, the Kaze is best suited to intermediate and advanced level hobbyists. I wouldn’t recommend this fabric if you’re buying your first pair of Japanese jeans, for example, and I’d say something like Tanuki’s Retro or Natural denim would be better starting points. Also, at times, it does feel like the old school Levi’s-style jackets are over-saturating the enthusiast market, so I hope to see Tanuki produce updates of classic Lee and Wrangler/Maverick jackets in the future.
All in all, KJKT3 is highly recommended.
At around $300 USD, the KJKT3 is well priced for a high tier Japan-made denim jacket and has all the bells n’ whistles you’d expect in the $300 to $500 USD price range. It’s slightly less expensive than other Tanuki jackets due to the lighter weight of the Kaze denim compared with other Tanuki fabrics, which are usually 15 to 18 oz.
The Kaze denim would be a great addition to the collection of an experienced enthusiast, due to its great colour and strong texture. It is also a fantastic choice for denim jacket fans, as the bright shade of indigo allows it to be combined with denim jeans much more easily. The KJKT3 jacket pattern incorporates much-needed improvements on the original 557XX pattern, and Tanuki’s line of KT jackets is a must see if you’re in the market for a Type 3.
After reading this product review, you probably have your own perspectives/opinions towards KJKT3 jacket. Leave comments below and share with us your thoughts!
If those features of KJKT3 jacket hit you (we’re pretty sure they do), you can click here to shop now.[:fr]If you haven’t take a look at one of the best jackets from TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3, check out the review from one of our favorite denim head fellow ‘Indigoshrimp’. This well-done review of TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 shares all details of this amazing jacket and hopefully, will help you to decide easily if you are going to get it.
Tanuki Inc. Japan – Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 review
2018/11/24 ~ INDIGOSHRIMP
Regular readers of this blog will know that I’ve been keeping up with the developments at Tanuki Inc. over the past two years. Back when I reviewed their Retro Regular RR1 jeans, Tanuki was just taking its first steps in markets outside Japan. In a remarkably short span of time, Tanuki has consolidated its status as a major Japanese denim brand, releasing ever improving fits and further developing interesting denim fabrics. Such has been the brand’s ascendancy, among the denim circles outside of Japan, Tanuki is perhaps commanding much more presence and attention compared to old-time Japanese denim stewards.
Indeed, the folks at Tanuki have seemingly captured the zeitgeist of specialty denim in the past year or so. From my conversations with various retailers and reps, Tanuki’s offerings have been some of the best-selling in the past 18 months. This poses an interesting question: Why has Tanuki succeeded, while many denim new-starts have floundered and a few old-guards are fading away?
Rather than doing a simple garment review today, I’m hoping to explore some of the changes in our denim hobby over the years through the examination of Tanuki’s KJKT3 – Levi’s Type 3 jacket reproduced in Tanuki’s own 13 oz Kaze denim. Let’s rant and ramble!
The History & The Cut
The blueprint of the KJKT3 is based on Levi’s famous Type 3 Jacket, which was birthed in 1962 as the 557XX. The Type 3 is perhaps the most iconic denim jacket of all time and was a first for Levi’s in terms of being made as a “slim fit” jacket and utilizing a heavier 14 oz fabric, beefed up from the usual 8 to 9 oz fair for jackets commonly used during the decades prior.
Tanuki at the Uyuni salt flat in Bolivia.
Tanuki’s take on Type 3, as expected, is not a pure reproduction. The KJKT3 is more of an update – keeping the fit relatively similar in the body (medium fit by today’s standards) and adding increased length to the jacket.
Since the first release of the KT jacket series, Tanuki has further altered some lines on the jacket. Most significantly the front chest pockets are more slanted and shapely, now asymmetrical.
Importantly, the KJKT3 has upgraded the Type 3 design with welted hand-warmer pockets and inner pockets on both sides. This is a serious upgrade to storage capacity and user friendliness.
Miles of pure white salt, so you can see the blues a bit better!
I am 185 cm and 92 kg in the photos here, wearing a size 44, which is currently the largest size being produced. The jacket is spacious enough for 2 or even 3 thinner layers to be worn beneath it, as I’m doing in some of the photos here.
After three weeks of testing, the KJKT3 proved to be very comfortable during extended days of outdoor activities.
The Denim
The Kaze denim is one of Tanuki’s new releases of 2018 and is available as once-washed denim.
Literally translated as “wind” from Japanese, the Kaze is a stand-out due to its unusual shade of indigo.
Colour under cold sunlight.
At 13 oz unsanforised, the Kaze is the headline of Tanuki’s light-weight offerings. It is breathable, medium weight and brilliantly colored.
The lighter shade of indigo is due to a number of different factors, including a decrease in the number of rope dye dips, decrease in the time of each dip and quicker exposure to oxygen after each dip.
This lighter blue reminds me of shelf-stored vintage denim, especially Wrangler and Maverick dead-stock pieces of denim from the 1960s to the 1980’s – I think it’s the slight green cast to the Kaze denim, which mimics the oxidation of indigo (yellow and green shades within blue) with shelf-storage over time.
The green in the blue becomes more prominent under warm sunlight, as you can see in the photo below.
Colour under the warm sunlight.
The denim features a light indigo warp and cheese-dyed beige weft.
The warp side is deceptively irregular, with frequent slubbing of small to moderate sizes. Thanks to the Peruvian Aspero cotton used and the extra low-tension weaving, the handle of this denim is textured but not rough.
The combination of shorter staple Californian cotton and longer staple Supima cotton in the weft creates a balance between crispness and comfort.
On closer inspection, the texture is rather intense.
You’ll see also that the Kaze is not hairy or nappy, leaving nothing to distract from the brilliant warp.
The Details & The Construct
This jacket features updated details, many of which are shared with Tanuki’s current jeans.
Tanuki’s standard deerskin patch is one of the nicest I’ve seen, and from experience, I can vouch for its graceful wear with time.
The Kanji character of ‘two’ features again, this time bar-tacked onto the right shoulder.
Contrast stitching of the patch adds work-style detailing and a touch of ruggedness to the back profile.
In fact, lemon and orange contrast threads have been used for sewing throughout the jacket, similar to the original iterations of Type 3.
Lemon colour threads dominate the body and the lines on the jacket and contrast nicely with the brilliant blue of the denim. Orange coloured threading is used sparingly for the occasional detail and outline.
Dense felled chain-stitch feature throughout in single and dual needle configurations, the seams being neatly folded.
The signature light blue thread has been used along the sides of the jacket and button-holes on the cuffs.
Upgraded custom hardware feature on this jacket – check out the metal Tanuki buttons!
These metal buttons begin to develop patina rather quickly and achieved darker shades of grey on a background of silver.
The backing studs are further customized with ‘Ni’.
In these hardware macros, you’ll get a sense of the colour and texture of the Kaze denim up close, under cold sunlight.
The sewn-then-cut button holes are densely sewn and neatly finished.
As mentioned previously, the pockets are slanted and offset, further streamlining the lines of the jacket.
Welted hand-warmer pockets are a headline feature here.
The sewing of the pockets are neat and tonal, so they remain unobtrusive.
Guess what? The hand-warmer pockets are finished with selvedge to ensure a clean and smooth construction.
The pocket cloth is made with the same shirting-grade herringbone fabric that also features on Tanuki’s newer jeans.
The pocket lining is sewn in such a way that a deep, internal pocket is created on each side of the jacket, further expanding storage capacity.
You’ll have noticed too, more selvedge runs down the facings of the jacket.
Button cinches feature on both sides, in case you want to tuck in the waist.
Finally, the Tanuki woven tab is sewn onto the bottom hem.
All in all, the details are rich but not overwhelming, and the construct is dense but clean.
Thoughts
Tanuki Inc. is barely two years old, and yet this Japanese denim maker has made remarkable progress to date. The launch of their jacket line was merely months ago, but like their denim jeans, Tanuki’s Levis-based jackets have evolved rapidly, with detailing upgrades and fabric updates coming in very quick succession.
As you can see in the photos above, the latest iteration of their KT jacket series is very well made and nicely detailed – the KJKT3 is clean, streamlined and rather catching too!
The sophistication of Tanuki products is commendable for such a young brand, though never have I seen any denim brand being able to access such in-depth fabric customization, pattern development, and multiple collaborations within the first two years of operation. This phenomenal access to resources in what is, traditionally, a very insular industry leads me to believe that influential industry veterans are indeed heavily involved in this brand.
Tanuki’s ongoing and rapid updating of garments based on consumer feedback has broken the mold of Japanese denim brands, which are usually slow response to the demands of the international market. It is this open spirit and a willingness to take risks, I feel, that has allowed Tanuki to take over a good amount of the attention and market share outside of Japan.
The Kaze denim against a backdrop of volcanic rocks in Patagonia.
These shifts in consumer focus represent the last nails on the coffin lid for the reproduction denim trend which had originally kick-started our denim hobby. Reproduction denim, of course, started winding down more than a decade ago in its home nation of Japan. Western interest, fostered through new Internet platforms, has merely prolonged its slow decline. Many of the established Japanese denim brands have long sought inroads to various international markets, though progress has generally been slow. In the past decade or so, only a select number of Japanese brands have managed to build reasonably sized fan-bases overseas… in some cases, there has been conflicted brewing at the core of the identities of these brands, as, ultimately, it is very difficult to export a niche hobby without modifying the products and the associated culture.
Other forces are at play too. Internationally speaking, the concepts and outlook of Americana styles have necessarily begun to change as American soft power diminishes and newer generations of clothing hobbyists are further chronologically removed from the mid-century golden years of Americana. Amekaji has not been immune to this dilution and dissipation of classic American styling.
Further, as the next generation of international denim hobbyists emerges, they are instinctively seeking to differentiate themselves from their forerunners. Whereas once upon a time, reproduction detailing and vintage-inspired silhouettes were de rigueur, many current hobbyists no longer want to be associated with the cliché of cos-playing a cowboy or train-conductor.
Finally, the impractical nature of many aspects of reproduction clothing severely limits the appeal of era-based menswear to the wider audience. Denim dungarees have been the most approachable and popular element of reproduction clothing, given its utilitarian and minimally changing designs, though the audience remains small. Important observations include the failures of Lee and Wrangler reproduction labels over the years, and LVC shifting its focus from pure reproduction to life-style based designs.
Tanuki at Inca salt mines in Peru.
Making this transition from pure Amekaji work-wear to modern denim casual-wear, in order to boost sales and build a consumer base, has not been easy for the established Japanese makers either. Industry folks in Japan are likely well aware of this difficulty, and thus the creation of Tanuki Inc. is not surprising – why make a painful transition when you can start anew? Strip away most of the Americana elements of Japanese denim, which tend to overwhelm and discourage new customers, and combine the traditional crafts of denim making with modern fits & hobbyist detailing. The aesthetics born through this streamlining of denim is much more versatile and approachable and integrates well with almost any style of clothing, including the ubiquitous street-wear.
Of course, the concept described above is not new. Since the early 2010s, dozens of new brands have popped up to take advantage of the ‘raw denim’ trend and a renewed interest in ‘heritage’ menswear, yet only a handful have thrived. In the home of Americana, many newer American denim brands that are catering to the raw denim community have been offering this modernized version of craft denim for some years now, yet very few have reached the benchmark set by Japanese makers. The loss of skill and diminishing manufacturing in most Western nations is an important factor here, of course, the closure of Cone’s White Oak plant being a recent focal point of reflection. The mecca of denim is Japan, and, for the time being, Japanese denim & Japanese jeans reign supreme.
The KJKT3 jacket illustrates some of the above arguments well.
Consider the pattern of the jacket.
The original Type 3, as viewed by modern eyes, while much more aesthetically pleasing and versatile compared with the earlier Types 1 & 2, suffers from the major deficit of carrying capacity. The litmus test of the capacity for any jacket, I would think, is the ability to securely carry a modern smartphone and at least a card wallet – Type 3 fails this test by not being able to accommodate a phone. The chest pockets, at best, might hold a very small wallet or a box of cigarettes.
The KJKT3 blueprint represents a subtle but much-needed upgrade to the original Type 3 which Levi’s created all those years ago. A modernized length and upper torso have toned down what could be a boxy silhouette, and subtle adjustments to the chest pockets and felled seams running down the jacket has produced a sleeker appearance from the front.
Through the addition of welted hand-warmer pockets and the clever sewing of the internal lining fabrics, Tanuki has engineered a Type 3 descendent with not two, not four, but six pockets! Four of these pockets are able to accommodate a smartphone or a full-sized bifold wallet. Keep in mind, this was accomplished without dramatically altering the lines and the fit of the jacket.
This extra carrying capacity cannot be overstated in importance, as it dramatically increases the practicality of this jacket and allows the KJKT3 to function as an all-purpose jacket. On my trip to South America, for example, the KJKT3 comfortably held my wallet, my camera, my phone, snack bars, tickets, and my passport wallet during days of hiking, trekking, climbing, and caving.
The Kaze denim contrasting with Torres del Paine, Chile.
The fabric too, warrants consideration.
Given the number of kick-starter brands popping up in the past few years, many in the hobbyist community are burnt-out on ‘stock’ 14 oz denim, even if they are unsanforised or narrow-loomed. Whereas in the early 2010s, a stock Kaihara or Cone fabric would have sufficed for most denim-heads, given the proliferation of the denim hobby, today’s enthusiasts are looking for more character in their denim. We are now at a stage where many in our community are looking for customized fabrics at all budget tiers, and one could argue that if you’re spending more than two or three hundred dollars on denim, you’d be a fool not to insist on a non-stock fabric.
Tanuki takes this concept one step further: whereas many brands will claim to offer proprietary Japanese fabrics, was in reality only one or two parameters of the denim have been altered from a standard product, Tanuki has engineered each of their denim from the ground up. Kaze denim is no exception.
Compared with other top tier Japanese brands who also offer custom denim, Tanuki has differentiated itself by offering modern versions of craft denim, rather than subtly improved versions of vintage denim. Having developed a wider spectrum of indigo shades and strong but varied textural presentations on each of their fabrics, Tanuki’s core denim is compatible with many more styles of dress, allowing their jeans and jackets to be integrated easily into non-Americana/Amekaji wardrobes.
The unique colour of the Kaze fabric, developed with the colours of vintage Lee and Wrangler denim in mind, has been produced by dramatic alterations to the number and duration of rope-dyeing dips as well as the time to air exposure after each dip. The result mimics the gradual oxidation of denim over decades of storage. This is a concept I find very interesting indeed – blending palatable aspects of distressed, vintage and raw denim. Immediately, a nostalgic shade of indigo can be worn, and yet further fading & evolution is possible!
This bright shade of indigo has another advantage when featured on a jacket- the combination of a denim jacket and jeans becomes less awkward. With the KJKT3, you’ll never feel like you’re wearing a denim tuxedo.
The texture and airiness of the Kaze denim are the results of both weave and cotton selection. The warp yarns are made of bulky & voluminous Peruvian Aspero cotton. The weft is a textured but comfortable combination of short staple Californian cotton and Supima cotton. The weave is set to extra low tension on a Toyota loom, though the density of the fabric is well maintained. The result is a good balance of texture & strength with lightness & permeability, and a hand-feel that is crisp, slightly dry but comfortable.
The Kaze denim compared with one of the purest shades of blue found in nature, on the Perito Moreno glacier.
At 13 oz, the relatively lighter mass of the Kaze denim means that the KJKT3 can be worn within a greater temperature range compared to heavier denim jackets. It may be used as a shell layer for cold weather wear, or simply combined with a T-shirt for pleasant Spring weather. Case in point, see me hiking on a glacier in Patagonia below – the KJKT3 acted as a lightweight nutshell, and performed very well.
All in all, the KJKT3 derives its appeal from the unique shade of indigo and the versatility of the jacket as a whole. Simply speaking, Tanuki’s KJKT3 is a denim jacket that you’d wear much more frequently than your other denim jackets.
To balance all the praise so far, and to nit-pick the KJKT3 a little, I could say that the prominent and unusual colour of the Kaze denim does make it somewhat of ‘one-note’ denim, and as such, the Kaze is best suited to intermediate and advanced level hobbyists. I wouldn’t recommend this fabric if you’re buying your first pair of Japanese jeans, for example, and I’d say something like Tanuki’s Retro or Natural denim would be better starting points. Also, at times, it does feel like the old school Levi’s-style jackets are over-saturating the enthusiast market, so I hope to see Tanuki produce updates of classic Lee and Wrangler/Maverick jackets in the future.
All in all, KJKT3 is highly recommended.
At around $300 USD, the KJKT3 is well priced for a high tier Japan-made denim jacket and has all the bells n’ whistles you’d expect in the $300 to $500 USD price range. It’s slightly less expensive than other Tanuki jackets due to the lighter weight of the Kaze denim compared with other Tanuki fabrics, which are usually 15 to 18 oz.
The Kaze denim would be a great addition to the collection of an experienced enthusiast, due to its great colour and strong texture. It is also a fantastic choice for denim jacket fans, as the bright shade of indigo allows it to be combined with denim jeans much more easily. The KJKT3 jacket pattern incorporates much-needed improvements on the original 557XX pattern, and Tanuki’s line of KT jackets is a must see if you’re in the market for a Type 3.
After reading this product review, you probably have your own perspectives/opinions towards KJKT3 jacket. Leave comments below and share with us your thoughts!
If those features of KJKT3 jacket hit you (we’re pretty sure they do), you can click here to shop now.[:it]If you haven’t take a look at one of the best jackets from TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3, check out the review from one of our favorite denim head fellow ‘Indigoshrimp’. This well-done review of TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 shares all details of this amazing jacket and hopefully, will help you to decide easily if you are going to get it.
Tanuki Inc. Japan – Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 review
2018/11/24 ~ INDIGOSHRIMP
Regular readers of this blog will know that I’ve been keeping up with the developments at Tanuki Inc. over the past two years. Back when I reviewed their Retro Regular RR1 jeans, Tanuki was just taking its first steps in markets outside Japan. In a remarkably short span of time, Tanuki has consolidated its status as a major Japanese denim brand, releasing ever improving fits and further developing interesting denim fabrics. Such has been the brand’s ascendancy, among the denim circles outside of Japan, Tanuki is perhaps commanding much more presence and attention compared to old-time Japanese denim stewards.
Indeed, the folks at Tanuki have seemingly captured the zeitgeist of specialty denim in the past year or so. From my conversations with various retailers and reps, Tanuki’s offerings have been some of the best-selling in the past 18 months. This poses an interesting question: Why has Tanuki succeeded, while many denim new-starts have floundered and a few old-guards are fading away?
Rather than doing a simple garment review today, I’m hoping to explore some of the changes in our denim hobby over the years through the examination of Tanuki’s KJKT3 – Levi’s Type 3 jacket reproduced in Tanuki’s own 13 oz Kaze denim. Let’s rant and ramble!
The History & The Cut
The blueprint of the KJKT3 is based on Levi’s famous Type 3 Jacket, which was birthed in 1962 as the 557XX. The Type 3 is perhaps the most iconic denim jacket of all time and was a first for Levi’s in terms of being made as a “slim fit” jacket and utilizing a heavier 14 oz fabric, beefed up from the usual 8 to 9 oz fair for jackets commonly used during the decades prior.
Tanuki at the Uyuni salt flat in Bolivia.
Tanuki’s take on Type 3, as expected, is not a pure reproduction. The KJKT3 is more of an update – keeping the fit relatively similar in the body (medium fit by today’s standards) and adding increased length to the jacket.
Since the first release of the KT jacket series, Tanuki has further altered some lines on the jacket. Most significantly the front chest pockets are more slanted and shapely, now asymmetrical.
Importantly, the KJKT3 has upgraded the Type 3 design with welted hand-warmer pockets and inner pockets on both sides. This is a serious upgrade to storage capacity and user friendliness.
Miles of pure white salt, so you can see the blues a bit better!
I am 185 cm and 92 kg in the photos here, wearing a size 44, which is currently the largest size being produced. The jacket is spacious enough for 2 or even 3 thinner layers to be worn beneath it, as I’m doing in some of the photos here.
After three weeks of testing, the KJKT3 proved to be very comfortable during extended days of outdoor activities.
The Denim
The Kaze denim is one of Tanuki’s new releases of 2018 and is available as once-washed denim.
Literally translated as “wind” from Japanese, the Kaze is a stand-out due to its unusual shade of indigo.
Colour under cold sunlight.
At 13 oz unsanforised, the Kaze is the headline of Tanuki’s light-weight offerings. It is breathable, medium weight and brilliantly colored.
The lighter shade of indigo is due to a number of different factors, including a decrease in the number of rope dye dips, decrease in the time of each dip and quicker exposure to oxygen after each dip.
This lighter blue reminds me of shelf-stored vintage denim, especially Wrangler and Maverick dead-stock pieces of denim from the 1960s to the 1980’s – I think it’s the slight green cast to the Kaze denim, which mimics the oxidation of indigo (yellow and green shades within blue) with shelf-storage over time.
The green in the blue becomes more prominent under warm sunlight, as you can see in the photo below.
Colour under the warm sunlight.
The denim features a light indigo warp and cheese-dyed beige weft.
The warp side is deceptively irregular, with frequent slubbing of small to moderate sizes. Thanks to the Peruvian Aspero cotton used and the extra low-tension weaving, the handle of this denim is textured but not rough.
The combination of shorter staple Californian cotton and longer staple Supima cotton in the weft creates a balance between crispness and comfort.
On closer inspection, the texture is rather intense.
You’ll see also that the Kaze is not hairy or nappy, leaving nothing to distract from the brilliant warp.
The Details & The Construct
This jacket features updated details, many of which are shared with Tanuki’s current jeans.
Tanuki’s standard deerskin patch is one of the nicest I’ve seen, and from experience, I can vouch for its graceful wear with time.
The Kanji character of ‘two’ features again, this time bar-tacked onto the right shoulder.
Contrast stitching of the patch adds work-style detailing and a touch of ruggedness to the back profile.
In fact, lemon and orange contrast threads have been used for sewing throughout the jacket, similar to the original iterations of Type 3.
Lemon colour threads dominate the body and the lines on the jacket and contrast nicely with the brilliant blue of the denim. Orange coloured threading is used sparingly for the occasional detail and outline.
Dense felled chain-stitch feature throughout in single and dual needle configurations, the seams being neatly folded.
The signature light blue thread has been used along the sides of the jacket and button-holes on the cuffs.
Upgraded custom hardware feature on this jacket – check out the metal Tanuki buttons!
These metal buttons begin to develop patina rather quickly and achieved darker shades of grey on a background of silver.
The backing studs are further customized with ‘Ni’.
In these hardware macros, you’ll get a sense of the colour and texture of the Kaze denim up close, under cold sunlight.
The sewn-then-cut button holes are densely sewn and neatly finished.
As mentioned previously, the pockets are slanted and offset, further streamlining the lines of the jacket.
Welted hand-warmer pockets are a headline feature here.
The sewing of the pockets are neat and tonal, so they remain unobtrusive.
Guess what? The hand-warmer pockets are finished with selvedge to ensure a clean and smooth construction.
The pocket cloth is made with the same shirting-grade herringbone fabric that also features on Tanuki’s newer jeans.
The pocket lining is sewn in such a way that a deep, internal pocket is created on each side of the jacket, further expanding storage capacity.
You’ll have noticed too, more selvedge runs down the facings of the jacket.
Button cinches feature on both sides, in case you want to tuck in the waist.
Finally, the Tanuki woven tab is sewn onto the bottom hem.
All in all, the details are rich but not overwhelming, and the construct is dense but clean.
Thoughts
Tanuki Inc. is barely two years old, and yet this Japanese denim maker has made remarkable progress to date. The launch of their jacket line was merely months ago, but like their denim jeans, Tanuki’s Levis-based jackets have evolved rapidly, with detailing upgrades and fabric updates coming in very quick succession.
As you can see in the photos above, the latest iteration of their KT jacket series is very well made and nicely detailed – the KJKT3 is clean, streamlined and rather catching too!
The sophistication of Tanuki products is commendable for such a young brand, though never have I seen any denim brand being able to access such in-depth fabric customization, pattern development, and multiple collaborations within the first two years of operation. This phenomenal access to resources in what is, traditionally, a very insular industry leads me to believe that influential industry veterans are indeed heavily involved in this brand.
Tanuki’s ongoing and rapid updating of garments based on consumer feedback has broken the mold of Japanese denim brands, which are usually slow response to the demands of the international market. It is this open spirit and a willingness to take risks, I feel, that has allowed Tanuki to take over a good amount of the attention and market share outside of Japan.
The Kaze denim against a backdrop of volcanic rocks in Patagonia.
These shifts in consumer focus represent the last nails on the coffin lid for the reproduction denim trend which had originally kick-started our denim hobby. Reproduction denim, of course, started winding down more than a decade ago in its home nation of Japan. Western interest, fostered through new Internet platforms, has merely prolonged its slow decline. Many of the established Japanese denim brands have long sought inroads to various international markets, though progress has generally been slow. In the past decade or so, only a select number of Japanese brands have managed to build reasonably sized fan-bases overseas… in some cases, there has been conflicted brewing at the core of the identities of these brands, as, ultimately, it is very difficult to export a niche hobby without modifying the products and the associated culture.
Other forces are at play too. Internationally speaking, the concepts and outlook of Americana styles have necessarily begun to change as American soft power diminishes and newer generations of clothing hobbyists are further chronologically removed from the mid-century golden years of Americana. Amekaji has not been immune to this dilution and dissipation of classic American styling.
Further, as the next generation of international denim hobbyists emerges, they are instinctively seeking to differentiate themselves from their forerunners. Whereas once upon a time, reproduction detailing and vintage-inspired silhouettes were de rigueur, many current hobbyists no longer want to be associated with the cliché of cos-playing a cowboy or train-conductor.
Finally, the impractical nature of many aspects of reproduction clothing severely limits the appeal of era-based menswear to the wider audience. Denim dungarees have been the most approachable and popular element of reproduction clothing, given its utilitarian and minimally changing designs, though the audience remains small. Important observations include the failures of Lee and Wrangler reproduction labels over the years, and LVC shifting its focus from pure reproduction to life-style based designs.
Tanuki at Inca salt mines in Peru.
Making this transition from pure Amekaji work-wear to modern denim casual-wear, in order to boost sales and build a consumer base, has not been easy for the established Japanese makers either. Industry folks in Japan are likely well aware of this difficulty, and thus the creation of Tanuki Inc. is not surprising – why make a painful transition when you can start anew? Strip away most of the Americana elements of Japanese denim, which tend to overwhelm and discourage new customers, and combine the traditional crafts of denim making with modern fits & hobbyist detailing. The aesthetics born through this streamlining of denim is much more versatile and approachable and integrates well with almost any style of clothing, including the ubiquitous street-wear.
Of course, the concept described above is not new. Since the early 2010s, dozens of new brands have popped up to take advantage of the ‘raw denim’ trend and a renewed interest in ‘heritage’ menswear, yet only a handful have thrived. In the home of Americana, many newer American denim brands that are catering to the raw denim community have been offering this modernized version of craft denim for some years now, yet very few have reached the benchmark set by Japanese makers. The loss of skill and diminishing manufacturing in most Western nations is an important factor here, of course, the closure of Cone’s White Oak plant being a recent focal point of reflection. The mecca of denim is Japan, and, for the time being, Japanese denim & Japanese jeans reign supreme.
The KJKT3 jacket illustrates some of the above arguments well.
Consider the pattern of the jacket.
The original Type 3, as viewed by modern eyes, while much more aesthetically pleasing and versatile compared with the earlier Types 1 & 2, suffers from the major deficit of carrying capacity. The litmus test of the capacity for any jacket, I would think, is the ability to securely carry a modern smartphone and at least a card wallet – Type 3 fails this test by not being able to accommodate a phone. The chest pockets, at best, might hold a very small wallet or a box of cigarettes.
The KJKT3 blueprint represents a subtle but much-needed upgrade to the original Type 3 which Levi’s created all those years ago. A modernized length and upper torso have toned down what could be a boxy silhouette, and subtle adjustments to the chest pockets and felled seams running down the jacket has produced a sleeker appearance from the front.
Through the addition of welted hand-warmer pockets and the clever sewing of the internal lining fabrics, Tanuki has engineered a Type 3 descendent with not two, not four, but six pockets! Four of these pockets are able to accommodate a smartphone or a full-sized bifold wallet. Keep in mind, this was accomplished without dramatically altering the lines and the fit of the jacket.
This extra carrying capacity cannot be overstated in importance, as it dramatically increases the practicality of this jacket and allows the KJKT3 to function as an all-purpose jacket. On my trip to South America, for example, the KJKT3 comfortably held my wallet, my camera, my phone, snack bars, tickets, and my passport wallet during days of hiking, trekking, climbing, and caving.
The Kaze denim contrasting with Torres del Paine, Chile.
The fabric too, warrants consideration.
Given the number of kick-starter brands popping up in the past few years, many in the hobbyist community are burnt-out on ‘stock’ 14 oz denim, even if they are unsanforised or narrow-loomed. Whereas in the early 2010s, a stock Kaihara or Cone fabric would have sufficed for most denim-heads, given the proliferation of the denim hobby, today’s enthusiasts are looking for more character in their denim. We are now at a stage where many in our community are looking for customized fabrics at all budget tiers, and one could argue that if you’re spending more than two or three hundred dollars on denim, you’d be a fool not to insist on a non-stock fabric.
Tanuki takes this concept one step further: whereas many brands will claim to offer proprietary Japanese fabrics, was in reality only one or two parameters of the denim have been altered from a standard product, Tanuki has engineered each of their denim from the ground up. Kaze denim is no exception.
Compared with other top tier Japanese brands who also offer custom denim, Tanuki has differentiated itself by offering modern versions of craft denim, rather than subtly improved versions of vintage denim. Having developed a wider spectrum of indigo shades and strong but varied textural presentations on each of their fabrics, Tanuki’s core denim is compatible with many more styles of dress, allowing their jeans and jackets to be integrated easily into non-Americana/Amekaji wardrobes.
The unique colour of the Kaze fabric, developed with the colours of vintage Lee and Wrangler denim in mind, has been produced by dramatic alterations to the number and duration of rope-dyeing dips as well as the time to air exposure after each dip. The result mimics the gradual oxidation of denim over decades of storage. This is a concept I find very interesting indeed – blending palatable aspects of distressed, vintage and raw denim. Immediately, a nostalgic shade of indigo can be worn, and yet further fading & evolution is possible!
This bright shade of indigo has another advantage when featured on a jacket- the combination of a denim jacket and jeans becomes less awkward. With the KJKT3, you’ll never feel like you’re wearing a denim tuxedo.
The texture and airiness of the Kaze denim are the results of both weave and cotton selection. The warp yarns are made of bulky & voluminous Peruvian Aspero cotton. The weft is a textured but comfortable combination of short staple Californian cotton and Supima cotton. The weave is set to extra low tension on a Toyota loom, though the density of the fabric is well maintained. The result is a good balance of texture & strength with lightness & permeability, and a hand-feel that is crisp, slightly dry but comfortable.
The Kaze denim compared with one of the purest shades of blue found in nature, on the Perito Moreno glacier.
At 13 oz, the relatively lighter mass of the Kaze denim means that the KJKT3 can be worn within a greater temperature range compared to heavier denim jackets. It may be used as a shell layer for cold weather wear, or simply combined with a T-shirt for pleasant Spring weather. Case in point, see me hiking on a glacier in Patagonia below – the KJKT3 acted as a lightweight nutshell, and performed very well.
All in all, the KJKT3 derives its appeal from the unique shade of indigo and the versatility of the jacket as a whole. Simply speaking, Tanuki’s KJKT3 is a denim jacket that you’d wear much more frequently than your other denim jackets.
To balance all the praise so far, and to nit-pick the KJKT3 a little, I could say that the prominent and unusual colour of the Kaze denim does make it somewhat of ‘one-note’ denim, and as such, the Kaze is best suited to intermediate and advanced level hobbyists. I wouldn’t recommend this fabric if you’re buying your first pair of Japanese jeans, for example, and I’d say something like Tanuki’s Retro or Natural denim would be better starting points. Also, at times, it does feel like the old school Levi’s-style jackets are over-saturating the enthusiast market, so I hope to see Tanuki produce updates of classic Lee and Wrangler/Maverick jackets in the future.
All in all, KJKT3 is highly recommended.
At around $300 USD, the KJKT3 is well priced for a high tier Japan-made denim jacket and has all the bells n’ whistles you’d expect in the $300 to $500 USD price range. It’s slightly less expensive than other Tanuki jackets due to the lighter weight of the Kaze denim compared with other Tanuki fabrics, which are usually 15 to 18 oz.
The Kaze denim would be a great addition to the collection of an experienced enthusiast, due to its great colour and strong texture. It is also a fantastic choice for denim jacket fans, as the bright shade of indigo allows it to be combined with denim jeans much more easily. The KJKT3 jacket pattern incorporates much-needed improvements on the original 557XX pattern, and Tanuki’s line of KT jackets is a must see if you’re in the market for a Type 3.
After reading this product review, you probably have your own perspectives/opinions towards KJKT3 jacket. Leave comments below and share with us your thoughts!
If those features of KJKT3 jacket hit you (we’re pretty sure they do), you can click here to shop now.[:pt]If you haven’t take a look at one of the best jackets from TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3, check out the review from one of our favorite denim head fellow ‘Indigoshrimp’. This well-done review of TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 shares all details of this amazing jacket and hopefully, will help you to decide easily if you are going to get it.
Tanuki Inc. Japan – Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 review
2018/11/24 ~ INDIGOSHRIMP
Regular readers of this blog will know that I’ve been keeping up with the developments at Tanuki Inc. over the past two years. Back when I reviewed their Retro Regular RR1 jeans, Tanuki was just taking its first steps in markets outside Japan. In a remarkably short span of time, Tanuki has consolidated its status as a major Japanese denim brand, releasing ever improving fits and further developing interesting denim fabrics. Such has been the brand’s ascendancy, among the denim circles outside of Japan, Tanuki is perhaps commanding much more presence and attention compared to old-time Japanese denim stewards.
Indeed, the folks at Tanuki have seemingly captured the zeitgeist of specialty denim in the past year or so. From my conversations with various retailers and reps, Tanuki’s offerings have been some of the best-selling in the past 18 months. This poses an interesting question: Why has Tanuki succeeded, while many denim new-starts have floundered and a few old-guards are fading away?
Rather than doing a simple garment review today, I’m hoping to explore some of the changes in our denim hobby over the years through the examination of Tanuki’s KJKT3 – Levi’s Type 3 jacket reproduced in Tanuki’s own 13 oz Kaze denim. Let’s rant and ramble!
The History & The Cut
The blueprint of the KJKT3 is based on Levi’s famous Type 3 Jacket, which was birthed in 1962 as the 557XX. The Type 3 is perhaps the most iconic denim jacket of all time and was a first for Levi’s in terms of being made as a “slim fit” jacket and utilizing a heavier 14 oz fabric, beefed up from the usual 8 to 9 oz fair for jackets commonly used during the decades prior.
Tanuki at the Uyuni salt flat in Bolivia.
Tanuki’s take on Type 3, as expected, is not a pure reproduction. The KJKT3 is more of an update – keeping the fit relatively similar in the body (medium fit by today’s standards) and adding increased length to the jacket.
Since the first release of the KT jacket series, Tanuki has further altered some lines on the jacket. Most significantly the front chest pockets are more slanted and shapely, now asymmetrical.
Importantly, the KJKT3 has upgraded the Type 3 design with welted hand-warmer pockets and inner pockets on both sides. This is a serious upgrade to storage capacity and user friendliness.
Miles of pure white salt, so you can see the blues a bit better!
I am 185 cm and 92 kg in the photos here, wearing a size 44, which is currently the largest size being produced. The jacket is spacious enough for 2 or even 3 thinner layers to be worn beneath it, as I’m doing in some of the photos here.
After three weeks of testing, the KJKT3 proved to be very comfortable during extended days of outdoor activities.
The Denim
The Kaze denim is one of Tanuki’s new releases of 2018 and is available as once-washed denim.
Literally translated as “wind” from Japanese, the Kaze is a stand-out due to its unusual shade of indigo.
Colour under cold sunlight.
At 13 oz unsanforised, the Kaze is the headline of Tanuki’s light-weight offerings. It is breathable, medium weight and brilliantly colored.
The lighter shade of indigo is due to a number of different factors, including a decrease in the number of rope dye dips, decrease in the time of each dip and quicker exposure to oxygen after each dip.
This lighter blue reminds me of shelf-stored vintage denim, especially Wrangler and Maverick dead-stock pieces of denim from the 1960s to the 1980’s – I think it’s the slight green cast to the Kaze denim, which mimics the oxidation of indigo (yellow and green shades within blue) with shelf-storage over time.
The green in the blue becomes more prominent under warm sunlight, as you can see in the photo below.
Colour under the warm sunlight.
The denim features a light indigo warp and cheese-dyed beige weft.
The warp side is deceptively irregular, with frequent slubbing of small to moderate sizes. Thanks to the Peruvian Aspero cotton used and the extra low-tension weaving, the handle of this denim is textured but not rough.
The combination of shorter staple Californian cotton and longer staple Supima cotton in the weft creates a balance between crispness and comfort.
On closer inspection, the texture is rather intense.
You’ll see also that the Kaze is not hairy or nappy, leaving nothing to distract from the brilliant warp.
The Details & The Construct
This jacket features updated details, many of which are shared with Tanuki’s current jeans.
Tanuki’s standard deerskin patch is one of the nicest I’ve seen, and from experience, I can vouch for its graceful wear with time.
The Kanji character of ‘two’ features again, this time bar-tacked onto the right shoulder.
Contrast stitching of the patch adds work-style detailing and a touch of ruggedness to the back profile.
In fact, lemon and orange contrast threads have been used for sewing throughout the jacket, similar to the original iterations of Type 3.
Lemon colour threads dominate the body and the lines on the jacket and contrast nicely with the brilliant blue of the denim. Orange coloured threading is used sparingly for the occasional detail and outline.
Dense felled chain-stitch feature throughout in single and dual needle configurations, the seams being neatly folded.
The signature light blue thread has been used along the sides of the jacket and button-holes on the cuffs.
Upgraded custom hardware feature on this jacket – check out the metal Tanuki buttons!
These metal buttons begin to develop patina rather quickly and achieved darker shades of grey on a background of silver.
The backing studs are further customized with ‘Ni’.
In these hardware macros, you’ll get a sense of the colour and texture of the Kaze denim up close, under cold sunlight.
The sewn-then-cut button holes are densely sewn and neatly finished.
As mentioned previously, the pockets are slanted and offset, further streamlining the lines of the jacket.
Welted hand-warmer pockets are a headline feature here.
The sewing of the pockets are neat and tonal, so they remain unobtrusive.
Guess what? The hand-warmer pockets are finished with selvedge to ensure a clean and smooth construction.
The pocket cloth is made with the same shirting-grade herringbone fabric that also features on Tanuki’s newer jeans.
The pocket lining is sewn in such a way that a deep, internal pocket is created on each side of the jacket, further expanding storage capacity.
You’ll have noticed too, more selvedge runs down the facings of the jacket.
Button cinches feature on both sides, in case you want to tuck in the waist.
Finally, the Tanuki woven tab is sewn onto the bottom hem.
All in all, the details are rich but not overwhelming, and the construct is dense but clean.
Thoughts
Tanuki Inc. is barely two years old, and yet this Japanese denim maker has made remarkable progress to date. The launch of their jacket line was merely months ago, but like their denim jeans, Tanuki’s Levis-based jackets have evolved rapidly, with detailing upgrades and fabric updates coming in very quick succession.
As you can see in the photos above, the latest iteration of their KT jacket series is very well made and nicely detailed – the KJKT3 is clean, streamlined and rather catching too!
The sophistication of Tanuki products is commendable for such a young brand, though never have I seen any denim brand being able to access such in-depth fabric customization, pattern development, and multiple collaborations within the first two years of operation. This phenomenal access to resources in what is, traditionally, a very insular industry leads me to believe that influential industry veterans are indeed heavily involved in this brand.
Tanuki’s ongoing and rapid updating of garments based on consumer feedback has broken the mold of Japanese denim brands, which are usually slow response to the demands of the international market. It is this open spirit and a willingness to take risks, I feel, that has allowed Tanuki to take over a good amount of the attention and market share outside of Japan.
The Kaze denim against a backdrop of volcanic rocks in Patagonia.
These shifts in consumer focus represent the last nails on the coffin lid for the reproduction denim trend which had originally kick-started our denim hobby. Reproduction denim, of course, started winding down more than a decade ago in its home nation of Japan. Western interest, fostered through new Internet platforms, has merely prolonged its slow decline. Many of the established Japanese denim brands have long sought inroads to various international markets, though progress has generally been slow. In the past decade or so, only a select number of Japanese brands have managed to build reasonably sized fan-bases overseas… in some cases, there has been conflicted brewing at the core of the identities of these brands, as, ultimately, it is very difficult to export a niche hobby without modifying the products and the associated culture.
Other forces are at play too. Internationally speaking, the concepts and outlook of Americana styles have necessarily begun to change as American soft power diminishes and newer generations of clothing hobbyists are further chronologically removed from the mid-century golden years of Americana. Amekaji has not been immune to this dilution and dissipation of classic American styling.
Further, as the next generation of international denim hobbyists emerges, they are instinctively seeking to differentiate themselves from their forerunners. Whereas once upon a time, reproduction detailing and vintage-inspired silhouettes were de rigueur, many current hobbyists no longer want to be associated with the cliché of cos-playing a cowboy or train-conductor.
Finally, the impractical nature of many aspects of reproduction clothing severely limits the appeal of era-based menswear to the wider audience. Denim dungarees have been the most approachable and popular element of reproduction clothing, given its utilitarian and minimally changing designs, though the audience remains small. Important observations include the failures of Lee and Wrangler reproduction labels over the years, and LVC shifting its focus from pure reproduction to life-style based designs.
Tanuki at Inca salt mines in Peru.
Making this transition from pure Amekaji work-wear to modern denim casual-wear, in order to boost sales and build a consumer base, has not been easy for the established Japanese makers either. Industry folks in Japan are likely well aware of this difficulty, and thus the creation of Tanuki Inc. is not surprising – why make a painful transition when you can start anew? Strip away most of the Americana elements of Japanese denim, which tend to overwhelm and discourage new customers, and combine the traditional crafts of denim making with modern fits & hobbyist detailing. The aesthetics born through this streamlining of denim is much more versatile and approachable and integrates well with almost any style of clothing, including the ubiquitous street-wear.
Of course, the concept described above is not new. Since the early 2010s, dozens of new brands have popped up to take advantage of the ‘raw denim’ trend and a renewed interest in ‘heritage’ menswear, yet only a handful have thrived. In the home of Americana, many newer American denim brands that are catering to the raw denim community have been offering this modernized version of craft denim for some years now, yet very few have reached the benchmark set by Japanese makers. The loss of skill and diminishing manufacturing in most Western nations is an important factor here, of course, the closure of Cone’s White Oak plant being a recent focal point of reflection. The mecca of denim is Japan, and, for the time being, Japanese denim & Japanese jeans reign supreme.
The KJKT3 jacket illustrates some of the above arguments well.
Consider the pattern of the jacket.
The original Type 3, as viewed by modern eyes, while much more aesthetically pleasing and versatile compared with the earlier Types 1 & 2, suffers from the major deficit of carrying capacity. The litmus test of the capacity for any jacket, I would think, is the ability to securely carry a modern smartphone and at least a card wallet – Type 3 fails this test by not being able to accommodate a phone. The chest pockets, at best, might hold a very small wallet or a box of cigarettes.
The KJKT3 blueprint represents a subtle but much-needed upgrade to the original Type 3 which Levi’s created all those years ago. A modernized length and upper torso have toned down what could be a boxy silhouette, and subtle adjustments to the chest pockets and felled seams running down the jacket has produced a sleeker appearance from the front.
Through the addition of welted hand-warmer pockets and the clever sewing of the internal lining fabrics, Tanuki has engineered a Type 3 descendent with not two, not four, but six pockets! Four of these pockets are able to accommodate a smartphone or a full-sized bifold wallet. Keep in mind, this was accomplished without dramatically altering the lines and the fit of the jacket.
This extra carrying capacity cannot be overstated in importance, as it dramatically increases the practicality of this jacket and allows the KJKT3 to function as an all-purpose jacket. On my trip to South America, for example, the KJKT3 comfortably held my wallet, my camera, my phone, snack bars, tickets, and my passport wallet during days of hiking, trekking, climbing, and caving.
The Kaze denim contrasting with Torres del Paine, Chile.
The fabric too, warrants consideration.
Given the number of kick-starter brands popping up in the past few years, many in the hobbyist community are burnt-out on ‘stock’ 14 oz denim, even if they are unsanforised or narrow-loomed. Whereas in the early 2010s, a stock Kaihara or Cone fabric would have sufficed for most denim-heads, given the proliferation of the denim hobby, today’s enthusiasts are looking for more character in their denim. We are now at a stage where many in our community are looking for customized fabrics at all budget tiers, and one could argue that if you’re spending more than two or three hundred dollars on denim, you’d be a fool not to insist on a non-stock fabric.
Tanuki takes this concept one step further: whereas many brands will claim to offer proprietary Japanese fabrics, was in reality only one or two parameters of the denim have been altered from a standard product, Tanuki has engineered each of their denim from the ground up. Kaze denim is no exception.
Compared with other top tier Japanese brands who also offer custom denim, Tanuki has differentiated itself by offering modern versions of craft denim, rather than subtly improved versions of vintage denim. Having developed a wider spectrum of indigo shades and strong but varied textural presentations on each of their fabrics, Tanuki’s core denim is compatible with many more styles of dress, allowing their jeans and jackets to be integrated easily into non-Americana/Amekaji wardrobes.
The unique colour of the Kaze fabric, developed with the colours of vintage Lee and Wrangler denim in mind, has been produced by dramatic alterations to the number and duration of rope-dyeing dips as well as the time to air exposure after each dip. The result mimics the gradual oxidation of denim over decades of storage. This is a concept I find very interesting indeed – blending palatable aspects of distressed, vintage and raw denim. Immediately, a nostalgic shade of indigo can be worn, and yet further fading & evolution is possible!
This bright shade of indigo has another advantage when featured on a jacket- the combination of a denim jacket and jeans becomes less awkward. With the KJKT3, you’ll never feel like you’re wearing a denim tuxedo.
The texture and airiness of the Kaze denim are the results of both weave and cotton selection. The warp yarns are made of bulky & voluminous Peruvian Aspero cotton. The weft is a textured but comfortable combination of short staple Californian cotton and Supima cotton. The weave is set to extra low tension on a Toyota loom, though the density of the fabric is well maintained. The result is a good balance of texture & strength with lightness & permeability, and a hand-feel that is crisp, slightly dry but comfortable.
The Kaze denim compared with one of the purest shades of blue found in nature, on the Perito Moreno glacier.
At 13 oz, the relatively lighter mass of the Kaze denim means that the KJKT3 can be worn within a greater temperature range compared to heavier denim jackets. It may be used as a shell layer for cold weather wear, or simply combined with a T-shirt for pleasant Spring weather. Case in point, see me hiking on a glacier in Patagonia below – the KJKT3 acted as a lightweight nutshell, and performed very well.
All in all, the KJKT3 derives its appeal from the unique shade of indigo and the versatility of the jacket as a whole. Simply speaking, Tanuki’s KJKT3 is a denim jacket that you’d wear much more frequently than your other denim jackets.
To balance all the praise so far, and to nit-pick the KJKT3 a little, I could say that the prominent and unusual colour of the Kaze denim does make it somewhat of ‘one-note’ denim, and as such, the Kaze is best suited to intermediate and advanced level hobbyists. I wouldn’t recommend this fabric if you’re buying your first pair of Japanese jeans, for example, and I’d say something like Tanuki’s Retro or Natural denim would be better starting points. Also, at times, it does feel like the old school Levi’s-style jackets are over-saturating the enthusiast market, so I hope to see Tanuki produce updates of classic Lee and Wrangler/Maverick jackets in the future.
All in all, KJKT3 is highly recommended.
At around $300 USD, the KJKT3 is well priced for a high tier Japan-made denim jacket and has all the bells n’ whistles you’d expect in the $300 to $500 USD price range. It’s slightly less expensive than other Tanuki jackets due to the lighter weight of the Kaze denim compared with other Tanuki fabrics, which are usually 15 to 18 oz.
The Kaze denim would be a great addition to the collection of an experienced enthusiast, due to its great colour and strong texture. It is also a fantastic choice for denim jacket fans, as the bright shade of indigo allows it to be combined with denim jeans much more easily. The KJKT3 jacket pattern incorporates much-needed improvements on the original 557XX pattern, and Tanuki’s line of KT jackets is a must see if you’re in the market for a Type 3.
After reading this product review, you probably have your own perspectives/opinions towards KJKT3 jacket. Leave comments below and share with us your thoughts!
If those features of KJKT3 jacket hit you (we’re pretty sure they do), you can click here to shop now.[:ru]Если вы еще не слышали об одной из лучших курток от TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3, просмотрите обзор от нашего любимого блогера – любителя денима ‘Indigoshrimp’. Его подробный обзор TANUKI Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 раскрывает все подробности и детали этой прекрасной куртки, и мы надеемся, что он поможет сделать выбор, если вы еще сомневаетесь в выборе куртки.
Tanuki Inc. Japan – Обзор Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3
2018/11/24 ~ от INDIGOSHRIMP
Постоянные читатели моего блога знают, что я слежу за релизами Tanuki Inc. в течение последних двух лет. Когда я делал обзор на Retro Regular RR1 jeans, Tanuki только начинали осваивать иностранный рынок. В невероятно короткое время Tanuki заявили о себе как об одном из главных японских брендов денима, с каждым новым релизом совершенствуя силуэты и развивая технологии в производстве денима. Таким образом, среди брендов, работающих вне Японии, Tanuki, возможно, привлекает к себе больше внимания по сравнению со японскими компаниями старой школы.
Казалось, что ребята из Tanuki смогли поймать тот самый дух времени особенного денима примерно в прошлом году. Исходя из моих разговоров со многочисленными ритейлерами и представителями, товары Tanuki были одними из самых продаваемых за последние 18 месяцев. Это ведет нас к интересному вопросу: Почему же Tanuki смогли добиться успеха, тогда как многие новички в сфере денима не смогли пробиться, а некоторые старые бренды исчезли со временем?
Вместо того, чтобы сделать обычный обзор, я бы хотел рассмотреть глубже изменения в наших предпочтениях в дениме посредством изучения Tanuki’s KJKT3 – репро куртки 3 типа Levi’s в дениме 13 oz Kaze от Tanuki. Давайте же начнем!
Фасон и его происхождение
Сама идея KJKT3 основана на знаменитой куртке 3 типа Levi’s, которая была выпущена в 1962 как 557XX. 3 тип, пожалуй, самый культовый тип куртки всех времен и был первым для Levi’s с точки зрения того, что она более облегающая, а также сделана из денима с плотностью 14 oz, хотя в те времена обычно использовали 8–9 oz.
Tanuki у солончака Уюни в Боливии.
Модель 3 типа Tanuki не является точной репродукцией. KJKT3 более усовершенствована – сохранив слим силуэт, была добавлена длина.
С самых первых релизов курток KT, Tanuki изменили некоторые линии. Наиболее заметно, что нагрудные карманы теперь более ассиметричные.
Что важнее, KJKT3 обновил дизайн 3 типа, добавив передние и внутренние карманы с обеих сторон. Это значительно увеличивает объем и добавляет удобства.
Километры чистой белой соли, и вы можете увидеть цвет индиго чуть лучше!
Мой рост 185 см,вес 92 кг, и я ношу размер 44, который является самым большим в размерной линейке. Куртка достаточно просторная, чтобы под ней можно было надеть 2 или даже 3 тонких слоя одежды, как я делаю на некоторых фотографиях.
После трех недель носки KJKT3 доказала, что является очень комфортной для долгих поездок.
Деним
Деним Kaze – один из новых релизов Tanukiв 2018 и доступен в one wash варианте.
Kaze переводится как “ветер” с японского, этот деним выделяется необычным цветом индиго.
Цвет при холодном освещении.
Являясь несанфоризованным денимом в 13 oz, Kaze является одним из лучших материалов Tanuki среди легковесных вариантов. Это дышащий, средний по весу и невероятно красиво окрашенный деним.
Такой легкий цвет индиго был достигнут благодаря многочисленным факторам, таких как уменьшение количества и времени погружения нитей в индиго, и быстрое окисление после каждого такого шага.
Этот светло-голубой напоминает мне о хранящемся на полках винтажном дениме, особенно обрезанных кусочках джинсовой ткани Wrangler и Maverick с 1960-х по 1980-е годы – я думаю, что легкий зеленый оттенок денима Kaze имитирует окисление индиго (желтый и зеленые оттенки в пределах синего).
Зеленый цвет в голубом становится более заметным под теплым солнечным светом, как вы можете видеть на фото ниже.
Цвет под теплым солнечным светом.
Деним с нитью основы цвета индиго и уточной бежевого цвета.
Фактура основы обманчиво неоднородна, видны частые элементы слабби малых и средних размеров. Благодаря используемому перуанскому хлопку Aspero и плетению с очень низким натяжением, деним очень фактурный, но не утрированно грубый.
Сочетание коротковолокнистого калифорнийского хлопка и длинноволокнистого хлопка Supima в уточной нити создает баланс между внешней фактурностью и комфортом.
При ближайшем рассмотрении текстура довольно неоднородная.
Также вы можете увидеть, что Kaze не neppy, и выглядит очень аккуратно.
Детали и конструкция
Эта куртка имеет много деталей, характерных для джинсов Tanuki’.
Tanuki’ имеет один из самых красивых патчей из оленьей кожи, которые мне доводилось видеть, и я могу ручаться, что такая кожа будет очень красиво стареть со временем.
Снова мы видим символику Кандзи, означающую “два”, на сей раз на правом плече.
Контрастные строчки патча добавляют “рабочей” стилистики этой куртке.
Фактически куртка прошита лимонными и оранжевыми нитями в классическом стиле Type III
В основном доминируют строчки лимонного цвета, оранжевые нити используются для некоторых деталей.
Прочно сшитый цепной стежок используется повсюду. Используются двухигольные и одноигольные швы. Все швы очень аккуратно сделаны.
Фирменная светло-синяя нить используется для обмётки петель этой куртки.
Обновлённый стиль металлической фурнитуры на этой куртке – обратите внимание на металлические пуговицы Tanuki !
Эти металлические пуговицы начинают весьма быстро получать тёмную патину и приобретают серые оттенки на серебристом фоне.
Обратная сторона имеет символику “два” (‘Ni’).
На этих снимках вы можете почувствовать цвет и фактуру деталей и деннима Kaze под холодным солнечным светом.
Все петли плотно сшиты и аккуратно обработаны.
Как было упомянуто ранее, карманы сделаны под углом, это добавляет удобства этой куртке.
Прошитые карманы для рук являются главной особенностью
Все цвета очень гармоничные и естественные.
Угадайте, что это? Карманы для рук сделаны с селвиджем, что говорит о тщательной и аккуратной проработке деталей.
Мешковина карманов сделана из плотной ткани в “ёлочку”, что также присутствует на многих джинсах Tanuki’
Мешковина карманов сделана таким образом, что образует собой ещё и дополнительные внутренние карманы, что делает куртку более удобной.
Также стоит заметить что очень много деталей куртки внутри сделаны с использованием селвидж.
По боках присутствуют утяжки с двумя пуговицами, на случай, если вы вдруг захотите застегнуть куртку потуже внизу.
И, наконец внизу пришита фирменная этикетка Tanuki .
В целом куртка имеет большое количество деталей, но они не слишком вычурны, Исполнение куртки достаточно надежно и аккуратно.
Размышления
Tanuki Inc. существуют немногим более двух лет, однако этот производитель уже привлёк значительное внимание к своей продукции. Куртки на основе type III Levi’s, Tanuki производит сравнительно недавно. Но налицо очень тщательный и выверенный продукт, в котором заметно очень быстрое развитие бренда.
Как вы можете видеть на фотографиях, куртка из серии KT – это очень тщательно сделанный и детализированный продукт.KJKT3 имеет современный аккуратный силуэт, и эта куртка определённо притягивает взгляд!
Изощрённость и доведение до совершенства продукта является большой редкостью для новых брендов. Мне никогда прежде не доводилось видеть, чтобы какой-либо молодой бренд имел доступ к такому богатому выбору разнообразного и очень интересного денима в отрасли, которая традиционно является весьма закрытой для новичков. Всё это наводит меня на мысль о том, что за брендом Tanuki стоят действительно опытные мастера.
Tanuki весьма оперативно работают с обратной связью от покупателей, что заметно отличает этот бренд от более консервативных марок, которые куда более медленно реагируют на меняющийся спрос на международном рынке. Именно это желание рисковать и не бояться внедрять новое, позволило Tanuki получить заметную популярность и значительную долю рынка за сравнительно небольшой отрезок времени. Kaze denim на фоне вулканических пород в Патагонии
Эти изменения, пожалуй, являются последними гвоздями в крышке гроба тренда на классическое репро. Того самого явления, которое когда-то положило начало нашему увлечению денимом. Интерес к репро безусловно начал угасать раньше, ещё в Японии. Интерес на Западе, вызванный появлением новых интернет-платформ, лишь замедлил эту тенденцию. Многие из классических японских брендов старались проникнуть на международный рынок. Но это был весьма медленный процесс. В последнее десятилетие или около того, лишь немногие японские производители сумели создать значительные фан-базы за рубежом…. В некоторых случаях возникала путаница и непонимание из-за проблемы идентичности брендов. В конце-концов очень сложно экспортировать весьма нишевое хобби без изменения продуктов и связанной с ними культуры.
Другие силы тоже в имеют влияние. На международном рынке концепция и взгляд на стиль Американа тоже начали меняться. Новые поколения любителей ещё больше удалены по времени от золотых лет Американы середины ХХ века. Японское направление Америкадзи (Amekaji) ни в коей мере не было застраховано от рассеивания и изменения с течением времени.
Кроме того, по мере появления поколений новых любителей денима, они невольно пытаются отделить себя от своих предшественников. Когда-то винтажные силуэты и детали играли ключевую роль, тогда как новое поколение уже не хочет ассоциировать себя со стереотипными образами ковбоев или железнодорожников.
Наконец, непрактичность для наших дней некоторых аспектов одежды в винтажном стиле, заметно ограничивает круг лиц, которым такой продукт был бы интересен. Джинсовая рабочая одежда была самым популярным предметом для репро, учитывая минимально изменившийся дизайн таких вещей. Аудитория интересующихся такими вещами остаётся сравнительно небольшой. Кстати, важные наблюдения включают в себя неудачи с запуском продуктовых линеек в винтажном стиле для Lee и Wrangler. А для линейки LVC в настоящее время более характерен лайфстайл сегмент, нежели классическое воспроизведение винтажной рабочей одежды.
Tanuki на соляных шахтах инков в Перу
Смена акцента с классического стиля Америкадзи к современной качественной повседневной одежде, был непростым шагом для японских брендов. Представители Tanuli inc. очевидно знают об этом. Поэтому и был создан новый бренд. Зачем делать болезненный переход, когда можно начать всё заново. Отказавшись от силуэтов классического репро, которые могут отталкивать многих людей за пределами Японии и дополнив это очень трудоёмким ремесленническим денимом, а также современными деталями, Tanuki позволяют получить очень интересный и востребованный продукт. Такая эстетика является более универсальной. Она отлично может вписываться в самый различный стиль одежды, включая street wear.
Конечно, концепция, описанная выше, не нова. С начала 2010-х годов появились десятки новых брендов, которые по-своему использовали интерес людей к “сырому японскому дениму” и возобновившийся интерес к мужской одежде в стиле heritage, однако хорошо это сделать получилось не у многих. В Америке, многие новые местные джинсовые джинсовые бренды, которые стараются привлечь сообщества любителей джинсов из raw denim, уже несколько лет предлагают свои современные версии таких джинсов, Но очень мало таких брендов имеют уровень, когда-то заданный японскими производителями. Потеря квалификации и сокращение производства в большинстве западных стран, конечно же, являются здесь важным фактором. Также сравнительно недавно была закрыта знаменитая американская фабрика, производившая деним, Cone’s White Oak. Настоящей Меккой качественного денима до сих пор является именно Япония. И в настоящее время до сих пор главенствует японский деним и японские джинсы.
The KJKT3 jacket очень хорошо иллюстрирует некоторые, приведённые выше аргументы.
Рассмотрим образец куртки.
Оригинальная куртка Type 3, если смотреть современными глазами, является более универсальной и эстетичной по сравнению с Type 1 и 2. Я думаю, что лакмусовая бумажка удобства для любой современной куртки – это способность надежно носить современный смартфон и, по крайней мере, некоторые предметы, типа кошелька или банковских карточек. Классическая куртка Type 3 не сможет пройти этот текст, т.к. не имеет карманов для размещения телефона. В лучшем случае нам удастся разместить небольшой кошелёк или пачку сигарет в нагрудном кармане.
KJKT3 представляет собой сравнительно узкий силуэт, являющийся обновлённым фасоном классической куртки Type 3, которую Levi’s создал много лет назад.тонкое, но очень необходимое обновление до оригинального Type 3. Некоторые видоизменённые современные детали сделали эту куртку более привлекательной и удобной. Ассиметричные карманы на груди комфортны, эргономичны и замечательно смотрятся.
Благодаря добавлению карманов для рук, Tanuki удаётся получить ещё два дополнительных внутернних кармана. Таким образом мы получаем куртку, у которой не два нагрудных кармана, как у классической Type 3, а целых шесть карманов, в которых без труда можно разместить большой смартфон, кошелёк и много мелких предметов. Имейте в виду, что это было достигнуто без значительных изменений кроя куртки.
Эта дополнительная вместительность карманов куртки очень важна и повышает практичность и универсальность. KJKT3. Например, во время моей поездки в Южную Америку, мне было очень удобно разместить кошелек, фотоаппарат, телефон, билеты и и многое другое в дни походов, прогулок по скалам и пещерам.
Kaze деним контрастирует с Torres del Paine, Чили
Деним тоже заслуживает рассмотрения
С учетом того, что в последние несколько лет появилось множество брендов, многие из сообщества любителей любителей джинсов увлеклись рядовым “стоковым” денимом с плотностью около 14 унций, в том числе и денимом, сотканным на “узких” челночных станках. Принимая во внимание, что в начале 2010-х годов для большинства денимхедов было вполне достаточно стандартного денима Kaihara или Cone Mills, учитывая распространённость такого материала, сегодняшние энтузиасты ищут больше характера, цвета и фактуры. Сейчас мы находимся на этапе, когда многие в нашем сообществе ищут индивидуальные виды денима во всех ценовых сегментах. Можно утверждать, что, если вы потратите более двух или трехсот долларов на джинсы, вы были бы глупцом, если бы не настаивали на нестандартном виде денима.
Tanuki продвигает эту концепцию на шаг вперед: многие бренды будут претендовать на предложение специализированного японского денима, хотя на самом деле только один или два параметра ткани могли быть изменены по сравнению со стандартным базовым денимом. Tanuki разрабатывает каждый вид денима полностью с нуля. Kaze деним не исключение.
По сравнению с другими ведущими японскими брендами, которые тоже предлагают джинсы из весьма интересного денима, Tanuki заявил о себе, предлагая полностью ремесленнические, но современные виды денима, а не слегка видоизменённые версии винтажного денима. Разработав более широкий спектр оттенков индиго и разнообразных видов текстуры для каждого вида денима,Tanuki дают возможность легко совмещать их вещи с совершенно разными стилями одежды.
Уникальный цвет ткани Kaze, разработанный с учетом цвета винтажного денима Lee и Wrangler, был получен путем резких изменений в количестве и продолжительности окрашивания и высушивания канатным способом. Этот цвет немного напоминает некоторые виды старой винтажной джинсовой одежды. Я нахожу эту концепцию действительно очень интересной – совмещать некоторые аспекты винтажного и современного денима. Вы сразу получаете красивый запоминающийся цвет со светлым оттенком индиго. В то же время возможно дальнейшие изменение цвета и развитие фейдинга!
Есть ещё один интересный момент, связанный с цветом. Джинсы и куртка будут контрастировать между собой. С курткой KJKT3 вы никогда не получите эффект “джинсового смокинга”.
Текстура и лёгкость денима Kaze – это результат выбора хлопка. Нить основы изготовлена из перуанского хлопка Aspero. Уток представляет собой текстурированное, но удобное сочетание короткоштапельного калифорнийского хлопка и хлопка Supima. Плетение настроено на сверхнизкое натяжение ткацкого станка Toyoda. Результатом является хороший баланс фактуры и прочности с легкостью и “воздушностью”, а также ощущение свежести. Эта куртка действительно очень комфортна.
Kaze denim в сравнении с одним из самых чистых оттенков голубого цвета в природе – ледник Perito Moreno
При 13 унциях плотности денима Kaze означает, что KJKT3 можно носить в более широком температурном диапазоне по сравнению с более плотными джинсовыми куртками. Куртка может использоваться в качестве защитного слоя для холодной погоды или просто сочетаться с футболкой для приятной весенней погоды. Например, я иду на ледник в Патагонии – KJKT3 действовал, как лёгкий верхний слой и показал себя очень хорошо.
В целом, KJKT3 черпает свою привлекательность благодаря уникальному оттенку индиго и универсальности куртки в целом. Проще говоря, Tanuki KJKT3 – это джинсовая куртка, которую вы носите гораздо чаще, чем другие куртки.
Чтобы добавить “ложку дёгтя” к моим похвалам относительно куртки KJKT3, я мог бы сказать, что выдающийся и необычный цвет денима Kaze делает его в некоторой степени денимом «одной ноты», и, как таковой, Kaze лучше всего подходит для любителей среднего и продвинутого уровня. Я не рекомендовал бы этот вид денима, если вы покупаете, например, свою первую пару японских джинсов, и я бы сказал, что что-то вроде Retro или Natural из вариантов денима Tanuki, будет лучшей отправной точкой для знакомства с брендом. Кроме того, время от времени кажется, что куртки в стиле старой школы Levi перенасыщают рынок, поэтому я надеюсь, что в будущем Tanuki выпустит новинки, вдоховлённые Lee или Wrangler / Maverick.
Всё в одном, KJKT3 самые лучшие рекомендации
Приблизительно в 300 долларов США KJKT3 имеет хорошую цену для высококлассной джинсовой куртки японского производства и имеет все необходимое, что вы ожидаете в ценовом диапазоне от 300 до 500 долларов США. Это немного дешевле, чем другие куртки Tanuki из-за меньшего веса денима Kaze по сравнению с другими видами денима Tanuki, которые обычно составляют от 15 до 18 унций.
Деним Kaze станет отличным дополнением к коллекции опытного энтузиаста благодаря своему великолепному цвету и сильной фактуре. Это также фантастический выбор для поклонников джинсовых курток, так как яркий оттенок индиго легко позволяет комбинировать её с тёмными джинсами . Куртка KJKT3 включает в себя интересные улучшения оригинального стиля 557XX, а линейка курток KT от Tanuki – это как раз то, что нужно, чтобы получить действительно новый взгляд на куртки Type 3.
Прочитав этот обзор продукта, вы, вероятно, имеете свои собственные взгляды / мнения относительно куртки KJKT3. Оставляйте комментарии ниже и делитесь с нами своими мыслями!
Если вас заинтересовали особенности куртки KJKT3 (мы уверены, что они есть), вы можете купить её прямо сейчас.[:th]หากคุณยังไม่เคยเข้ามารู้และเห็นรายละเอียดแจ็คเก็ตยีนส์ที่ถือว่าเป็นรุ่นที่ดีที่สุดรุ่นหนึ่ง อย่าง TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 เราขอแนะนำให้ตามมาอ่านรีวิวฉบับละเอียดจากเพื่อนเก่าเซียนยีนส์ของเรา ‘Indigoshrimp’ โดยรีวิว TANUKI: Kaze blueprint jacket KJKT3 เรารับรองเลยว่าเขียนได้แบบครบจบ สมบูรณ์ในบทเดียว พร้อมแชร์ให้คุณเห็นทุกรายละเอียด ทุกมุมของแจ็คเก็ตตัวเก่งรุ่นนี้ ช่วยให้คุณตัดสินใจง่ายขึ้นอีกหลายเท่า
รีวิว Tanuki Inc. Japan – แจ็คเก็ตยีนส์พิมพ์เขียว Kaze KJKT3
2018/11/24 ~ โดย INDIGOSHRIMP
หลายคนที่ติดตามบล็อกของผมอยู่ น่าจะรู้ว่าผมพยายามผลักดัน Tanuki มาเป็นเวลา 2 ปี อย่างรีวิวกางเกงยีนส์ Retro Regular RR1 ที่ Tanuki เพิ่งเริ่มเปิดตัวในวงการยีนส์นอกญี่ปุ่น เพียงครั้งแรกแบรนด์ก็กลายเป็นที่รู้จักและได้รับการยอมรับอย่างกว้างขวางในฐานะแบรนด์หลักของเดนิมญี่ปุ่นทั่วโลก ดังนั้น Tanuki อาจจะถือได้ว่าเป็นแบรนด์ที่สมควรได้รับความสนใจอย่างมากในทุกๆ ย่างก้าว
และแน่นอนว่า ผมได้เพื่อนจาก Tanuki ที่คอยส่งงานมาให้ทำรีวิวอยู่ตลอด 2 ปีที่ผ่านมา และจากการได้พูดคุยกับตัวแทนจำหน่ายหลายๆ เจ้า Tanuki คือแบรนด์ที่สร้างยอดขายได้ดีที่สุดในช่วงปีกว่าๆ ที่ผ่านมา ข้อนี้ทำให้เกิดคำถามว่าทำไม Tanuki จึงประสบความสำเร็จอย่างมาก ในขณะที่หลายๆ แบรนด์ที่เพิ่งเกิดใหม่ รวมถึงแบรนด์ที่มีเรื่องราวที่ยาวนานบางแบรนด์ไม่สามารถยืนอยู่ในตลาดได้?
วันนี้แทนที่จะมารีวิวเสื้อผ้าแบบปกติ ผมเลยปรับการรีวิวให้เหมือนกับการทดลองไปในตัว เดนิมแจ็คเก็ต Tanuki’s KJKT3 – Levi’s Type 3 ที่ผลิตซ้ำโดยแบรนด์ Tanuki ด้วยผ้าขนาด 13 oz Kaze denim ได้ออกผจญภัยแล้ว จะมีเรื่องราวและผลลัพธ์เป็นอย่างไร ตามมาดกัน
ประวัติศาสตร์และ & การดีไซน์คัตติ้ง
งานพิมพ์เขียวของ KJKT3 ได้แก่ Levi Type 3 รุ่นดัง ที่ได้ถือกำเนิดขึ้นในช่วงปี 1962 เช่นเดียวกันกับ 557XX ซึ่งอาจจะถือได้ว่าเป็นไอคอนหลักของเดนิมแจ็คเก็ตตลอดกาลเลยก็ว่าได้ นอกจากนี้ยังเป็นแจ็คเก็ตรุ่นแรกที่ทำออกมาเป็นทรง “สลิมฟิต” และผลิตจากผ้าที่น้ำหนักมากถึง 14 ออนซ์ แปลกไปจากครั้งก่อนๆ ที่ใช้ผ้าที่ 8 หรือ 9 ออนซ์เท่านั้น
Tanuki บนพื้นเกลือ Uyuni ใน Bolivia
การที่ Tanuki เลือกผลิต Type 3 ก็เป็นไปตามความคาดหมาย คือไม่ใช่การรีโปรดักชั่นแบบเพียวๆ เพราะ The KJKT3ได้รับการปรับให้เข้ากับยุคสมัย – ปรับทรงให้พอดีกับรูปร่าง (ตามมาตรฐานชายรูปร่างขนาดกลางทั่วไป) รวมทั้งเพิ่มความยาวของแจ็คเก็ต
ตั้งแต่การเปิดตัวซีรี่ย์แรกของ KT jacket Tanuki ได้ผลิตไอเทมนำหน้าตลาด ด้วยการดีไซน์กระเป๋าหน้าให้ดูปราดเปรียวได้รูปทรงชัดเจน และสะดุดตายิ่งขึ้น
สิ่งสำคัญก็คือKJKT3 ถูกอัพเกรดจากแจ็คเก็ต Type 3 ด้วยการดีไซน์ให้มีกระเป๋าล่าง และกระเป๋าซ่อนทั้งสองข้าง ซึ่งถือเป็นการอัพเกรดที่เน้นการใช้งานของผู้สวมใส่อย่างจริงจัง
แจ็คเก็ตกับบรรยากาศเค็มๆ ของเกลือด้านหลังยาวไปหลายๆ ไมล์ คุณจะเห็นว่าสีน้ำเงินเข้มจัดและสวยขึ้น
ส่วนสูงของผมที่ 185 เซนติเมตร และน้ำหนัก 92 กิโลกรัม ในภาพนี้ สวมไซส์ 44 ซึ่งเป็นไซส์ใหญ่สุด โดยคุณสามารถสวม 2-3 เลเยอร์บางๆ ก่อนสวมทับด้วยแจ็คเก็ตได้แบบสบายๆ
หลังจากการทดลอง 3 สัปดาห์ KJKT3 พิสูจน์ให้เห็นว่าเป็นแจ็คเก็ตที่สวมใส่สบาย โดยเฉพาะในการทำกิจกรรมกลางแจ้ง
เดนิม
เดนิม Kaze denim คือหนึ่งในผ้าใหม่ของ Tanuki ที่เปิดตัวเมื่อปี 2018 และเป็นเวอร์ชั่น One-washed
Kaze ในภาษาญี่ปุ่นหมายถึง “ลม” โดยเดนิมรุ่นนี้มีสีอินดิโก้ที่โดดเด่นหาตัวจับยาก
สีภายใต้แสงอาทิตย์
ผ้า Unsanforised ที่น้ำหนัก 13 ออนซ์ Kazeถือเป็นไฮไลท์หลักของไอเทมไลท์เวทจาก Tanuki ทั้งระบายอากาศได้ดี น้ำหนักอยู่ในช่วงกลางๆ และให้สีในแบบที่ดีที่สุดๆ ไปเลย
สีอินดิโก้ที่ให้เฉดสว่างกว่าปกติเกิดขึ้นได้เนื่องจากปัจจัยหลายๆ ข้อ รวมไปถึงการลดจำนวนครั้งในการจุ่มย้อม ลดเวลาระหว่างการจุ่มในแต่ละรอบให้สั้นลง ทำให้ปฏิกิริยาของออกซิเจนที่มีต่อผ้านั้นแตกต่าง สร้างผลลัพธ์ที่แตกต่าง
สีน้ำเงินสว่างสีนี้ทำให้นึกถึงเดนิมวินเทจในสโตร์ โดยเฉพาะอย่างยิ่ง Wrangler และ Maverick ในช่วงปี 1960s ถึง 1980’s ซึ่งผมคิดว่าสีเขียวอ่อนๆ ของ Green Cast บนเดนิม Kaze ที่ถือเป็นเฉดสีที่เกิดจากปฏิกิริยาของอินดิโก้ (ให้สีออกเหลืองและเขียวในเฉดน้ำเงิน) จะกลายเป็นสีที่มีความอมตะแบบสุดๆ
สีเขียวในเฉดน้ำเงินจะให้ความสะดุดตามากยิ่งขึ้นภายใต้แสงอาทิตย์ อย่างที่เห็นในภาพ
สีใต้แสงอาทิตย์ในวันที่อากาศร้อน
คุณสมบัติของผ้ายีนส์สีอินดิโก้สว่าง และด้ายสีเบจย้อมด้วยชีส
เส้นด้ายแนวตั้งมีความเป็นเอกลักษณ์ ให้ความหยาบแบบปานกลาง ต้องขอบคุณคอตต้อน Peruvian Aspero และการทอแบบ Extra low-tension ที่ทำให้เดนิมรุ่นี้มีเท็กซ์เจอร์ แต่ไม่หยาบ
การผสมผสานของใยเส้นเส้นจากคอตต้อนแคลิฟอร์เนีย และใยเส้นยาวจากคอตต้อนสุพิม่า ทำให้เกิดความสมดุลระหว่างความหยาบและความนุ่มสบาย
และจากการสังเกตอย่างถี่ถ้วน เท็กซ์เจอร์มีความชัดเจน
ซึ่งคุณจะเห็นได้ว่า Kaze นั้นไม่ได้ Hairy หรือ Napp แม้แต่น้อย
รายละเอียด & โครงสร้าง
คุณสมบัติของแจ็คเก็ตตัวนี้มีดีเทลที่ทันสมัย ตามแบบฉบับของยีนส์จากกางเกงยีนส์ของ Tanuki’ รุ่นหลังๆ
แพทช์หนังกวางตามมาตรฐานของ Tanuki คือหนึ่งในดีเทลที่แจ่มที่สุดเท่าที่ผมเคยเห็นมา และจากประสบการณ์ที่มี บอกได้เลยว่ายิ่งใส่ยิ่งสวย
และอีกครั้งกับการใช้ตัวอักษรคันจิที่แปลว่า “สอง” ปักช่วงไหล่ของแจ็คเก็ต
รอยตะเข็บของแพทช์ที่สีคอนทราสกับเนื้อผ้าเก็บรายละเอียดได้เป็นอย่างดี
อันที่จริงแล้ว ด้ายสีเลมอนและส้มถูกใช้ในการเย็บแจ็คเก็ตทั้งตัว ซึ่งคล้ายกับการผลิตแจ็คเก็ต Type 3 แบบดั้งเดิม
ด้ายสีเลมอนถูกใช้เย็บช่วงลำตัวและเส้นตะเข็บสีสดใสให้ความคอนทราสบนเดนิมสีสว่างได้อย่างสวยงามและมีมิติ โดยมีด้ายสีส้มแทรกงานดีเทลเป็นช่วงๆ
ตะเข็บที่เย็บด้วยด้ายคู่ เก็บงานเนี้ยบ เช่นเดียวกันกับการพับริมที่ทำออกมาได้ดีไม่มีที่ติ
ซิกเนเจอร์ด้ายสีน้ำเงินสว่างถูกใช้ช่วงข้างของลำตัว รวมถึงรังดุมบนแขนเสื้อ
อัพเกรดฮาร์ดแวร์ด้วยไอเทมคัสต้อม มาดูกระดุมโลหะของ Tanuki กันแบบชัดๆ
กระดุมโลหะนี้จะเริ่มมีการเปลี่ยนแปลงและเป็นสนิมอย่างรวดเร็ว โดยให้เฉดสีเทาเข้มบนพื้นหลังสีเงิน
ด้านหลังก็ยังคัสต้อมด้วยโลโก้ ‘Ni’
และด้วยฮาร์ดแวร์ที่ถูกใช้บนแจ็คเก็ตรุ่นนี้ จะทำให้คุณเข้าใจถึงเซนส์ของสีและเท็กซ์เจอร์ของเดนิม Kaze ได้มากยิ่งขึ้น โดยเฉพาะอย่างยิ่งเมื่อแจ็คเก็ตอยู่ภายใต้แสงอาทิตย์เย็น
รอยเย็บของรังดุมทำออกมาได้อย่างประณีตและสมบูรณ์แบบ
และอย่างที่บอกไว้เมื่อช่วงก่อนหน้านี้ กระเป๋ามีความปราดเปรียว และช่วยเสริมทรงให้แจ็คเก็ตได้เป็นอย่างดี
กระเป๋าข้างคือคุณสมบัติเด่น
การเย็บกระเป๋ามีความประณีต และทำออกมาได้อย่างเรียบร้อย และดูไม่ระเกะระกะ
ยังไม่จบแค่นั้น เพราะกระเป๋าข้างถูกเย็บริมเพื่อทำให้โครงสร้างแพทเทิร์นดูสมูทและสะอาดตา
กระเป๋าทำจากผ้าเกรดเดียวกันกับเสื้อเชิ้ต ซึ่งเป็นตัวเดียวกันกับกางเกงยีนส์รุ่นใหม่ๆ ของ Tanuki’
ซับในกระเป๋าได้รับการเย็บอย่างแน่นหนา ด้านในถูกดีไซน์ให้มีพื้นที่สำหรับใช้งานกว้างขวาง
ผมมั่นใจว่าคุณก็ต้องสังเกตเห็นเช่นกัน ว่าแจ็คเก็ตรึ่นนี้ติดริมทั้งตัว
กระดุมช่วงเอวทั้งสองข้าง เผื่อว่าคุณอยากทำให้ช่วงเอวกระชับขึ้น
และสุดท้าย Tanuki เย็บแท็ปไว้ตรงชายเสื้อ
ทั้งหมดทั้งมวลก็คือ ดีเทลทำออกมาได้แบบจัดจ้าน แต่ไม่ล้นจนเกินไป โครงสร้างชัดเจนแต่ไม่รก/span>
สรุปความเห็น
Tanuki Inc. เปิดตัวออกมาเมื่อ 2 ปีที่แล้ว และผู้ผลิตเดนิมญี่ปุ่นรายนี้ได้สร้างมาตรฐานใหม่แห่งวงการยีนส์ ซึ่งสิ่งที่แบรนด์ทำไม่ใช่แค่เปิดตัวแจ็คเก็ตเมื่อหลายเดือนที่ผ่านมา แต่ยังมีการเปิดตัวกางเกงยีนส์ดีๆ ด้วยเช่นกัน ซึ่ง Tanuki ได้ผลิตและดีไซน์จากความดั้งเดิมของงาน Levis รวมกับการอัพเกรดดีเทลและตัวผ้าที่สร้างความสำเร็จได้อย่างรวดเร็วในเวลาอันสั้น
อย่างที่คุณเห็นในภาพด้านบน แจ็คเก็ต KT รุ่นล่าสุดผลิตออกมาได้อย่างประณีตและมีดีเทลที่สวยงาม– KJKT3 ที่ทั้งคลีน แต่สะดุดตา
ความซับซ้อนในการผลิตของ Tanuki เห็นได้อย่างชัดเจนว่าน่าชื่นชม โดยเฉพาะอย่างยิ่งในฐานะแบรนด์น้องใหม่ ผมไม่เคยคิดว่าจะได้เห็นแบรนด์ไหนที่สามารถเข้าถึงความซับซ้อนของเนื้อผ้า การพัฒนาแพทเทิร์น รวมไปถึงการทำงานคอลแลปฯ มากมายหลายชิ้นในช่วงระยะเวลาเพียงแค่ 2 ปี สิ่งเหล่านี้ได้เข้าถึงวัฒนธรรม และกรอบความคิดที่เฉพาะเจาะจงได้อย่างตรงจุด และทำให้ผมเชื่อเหลือเกินว่าผู้ผลิตขั้นเซียนจะต้องร่วมอยู่ในเบื้องหลังแบรนด์นี้
ไอเทมที่อยู่ในตลาด รวมถึงเสื้อผ้าชิ้นใหม่ๆ จากTanuki มีพื้นฐานการผลิตมาจากฟีดแบ็กของผู้บริโภค ซึ่งอยู่นอกเหนือแบบฉบับของแบรนด์ญี่ปุ่นอื่นๆ ที่โดยปกติแล้วกว่าจะผลิตออกมาได้ตอบโจทย์ตลาดอินเตอร์ฯ นั้นก็ต้องใช้เวลานานพอสมควร ถือเป็นการเปิดมุมมองและความตั้งใจที่จะเสี่ยง และผมรู้สึกว่าสิ่งนี้ทำให้ Tanuki คู่ควรที่จะได้รับความสนใจรวมถึงมาร์เก็ตแชร์ในตลาดโลกอย่างท่วมท้น
เดนิม Kaze กับพื้นหลังหินภูเขาไฟใน Patagonia
ในทางของผู้บริโภคแล้ว สิ่งเหล่านี้ถือเป็นนิ้วสุดท้ายที่โผล่ออกมาจากโลงศพของเทรนด์การรีโปรดักชั่น อันเป็นที่มาของงานอดิเรกของคนรักยีนส์ การรีโปรดักชั่นยีนส์ แน่นอนว่าเริ่มต้นขึ้นตั้งแต่กว่า 10 ปีก่อน ในญี่ปุ่น ซึ่งคนตะวันเกิดความสนใจขึ้นภายหลังก็เพราะมีอินเตอร์เน็ตให้เข้าถึง แบรนด์ญี่ปุ่นหลายแบรนด์มีสายงานการผลิตที่ยืดยาวและยากเย็นในการเสิร์ฟตลาดอินเตอร์ฯ สิบปีผ่านไป ก็ยังคงนับได้กับแบรนด์ที่พยายามผลิตยีนส์ในไซส์ตะวันตก และในบางกรณีก็ยังมีความย้อนแย้งให้เห็นถึงความพยายามผลิตสินค้าที่บ่งบอกตัวตนแบบยิ่งยวด เสิร์ฟให้กับตลาดเฉพาะโดยที่ไม่มีการปรับเปลี่ยนอะไรให้ตรงกับความชอบของผู้บริโภค
นอกจากนี้ก็ยังมีเรื่องกำลังภายในอื่นๆ เช่นกัน จากการพูดคุยในระดับอินเตอร์ฯ คอนเซปท์และลุคอเมริกันสไตล์ได้กลายเป็นจุดเปลี่ยนที่สำคัญ เพราะอิทธิพลของชาติ รวมถึงงานอดิเรกของคนรุ่นใหม่ที่ได้ถดถอยลงตั้งแต่ช่วงกลางยุคทองของอเมริกัน
นอกจากนี้ ยังเกิดการรวมตัวของคนรักยีนส์จากทั่วโลก ซึ่งมองหาความแตกต่างจากแฟชั่นของคนรุ่นก่อน ในขณะที่กาลครั้งหนึ่งนานมาแล้ว ดีเทลของการรีโปรดักชั่นและแรงบันดาลใจของเสื้อผ้าวินเทจนั้นมีความจำเป็นอย่างยิ่งยวด แต่ปัจจุบันนี้คนแต่งตัวหลายๆ คนก็ไม่อยากร่วมวงกับคอสเพลย์ที่แต่งตัวสไตล์คาวบอยหรือคนขับรถไฟเท่าไหร่นัก
สุดท้าย ธรรมชาติของสิ่งที่ไม่สามารถทำได้จริงในการทำรีโปรดักชั่นจึงส่งผลกระทบอย่างมหาศาลกับแฟชั่น ตั้งแต่เสื้อผ้าชายไปจนถึงแฟชั่นอื่นๆ ในวงกว้าง ชุดยีนส์ที่ได้รับความนิยมมากที่สุด และเป็นปัจจัยสำคัญในการทำเสื้อผ้ารีโปรดักชั่น ได้ถูกปรับให้ตรงกับการใช้สอย รวมถึงมีดีไซน์มินิมอลมากยิ่งขึ้น และจากการสังเกตสิ่งที่เกิดขึ้น รวมถึงความล้มเหลวในการรีโปรดักชั่นของ Lee และ Wrangler หลายปีที่ผ่านมา คือ LVC ได้ยกระดับความสำคัญของการทำรีโปรดักชั่นแบบเพียวๆ มาสู่การผลิตและดีไซน์ให้ตรงกับไลฟ์สไตล์ของผู้สวมใส่
Tanuki ที่เหมืองแร่เกลือ Inca ใน Peru
การเปลี่ยนแปลงจาก Amekaji เวิร์คแวร์แบบเพียงๆ ไปสู่โมเดิร์นเดนิม เพื่อให้เกิดยอดขายและสร้างฐานลูกค้านั้นไม่ใช่เรื่องง่ายสำหรับแบรนด์ญี่ปุ่นเช่นกัน เหล่าผู้ผลิตในญี่ปุ่นต่างเข้าใจและตระหนักถึงความท้าทายในจุดนี้เป็นอย่างดี ดังนั้น ผลงานการสร้างสรรค์ของ Tanuki Inc. จึงไม่ถือเป็นเรื่องแปลก – ทำไมถึงต้องเจ็บปวดกับการเปลี่ยนแปลงเมื่อคุณสามารถเริ่มต้นสิ่งใหม่ๆ ได้? การปลดดีเทลและปัจจัยของอเมริกาออกจากเดนิมญี่ปุ่น ที่ดูเหมือนจะรกรุงรังและอาจทำให้ไม่ได้รับความสนใจจากลูกค้าใหม่ๆ แล้วยังรวมเข้ากับงานคราฟท์ที่คงวัฒนธรรมด้วยทรงโมเดิร์นฟิต & และดีเทลตามแบบฉบับที่คนเล่นยีนส์โปรดปราน ความสุนทรีย์ที่เกิดขึ้นจากแรงผลักดันของเดนิมนี้มีความกว้างขวางและเข้าถึงได้ง่าย รวมทั้งสามารถปรับให้เข้ากันกับเสื้อผ้าทุกสไตล์ รวมถึงสตรีทแวร์ที่มีอยู่ทุกหนทุกแห่ง
แน่นอนว่าคอนเซปท์ที่อธิบายข้างต้นนั้นไม่ใช่ของใหม่ ตั้งแต่ช่วงต้นของ 2010s มีแบรนด์มากกว่า 10 เจ้าที่หยิบเอาประโยชน์ของ “เดนิม” มาใช้เป็นเทรนด์และสร้างความสนใจให้คนกลับมาชื่นชอบ “ความเฮอริเทจ” ของเสื้อผ้าชายอีกครั้ง ซึ่งก็มีเพียงไม่กี่เจ้าเท่านั้นที่ประสบความสำเร็จ ในอเมริกาที่เป็นต้นกำเนิดเอง ก็มีแบรนด์จำนวนไม่น้อยที่หันมาทำเดนิมเสิร์ฟให้กับคอมมูนิตี้ โดยนำเสนอความโมเดิร์นผ่านงานคราฟท์ ซึ่งก็มีไม่กี่แบรนด์ที่ผ่านมาตรฐานของผู้ผลิตญี่ปุ่น การขาดทักษะของผู้ผลิตในชาติตะวันตกส่วนใหญ่คือปัจจัยสำคัญ และแน่นอนอีกเช่นกันว่าการปิดโรงาน Cone’s White Oak เป็นจุดที่สะท้อนให้เห็นข้อนี้อย่างเด่นชัด
แหล่งของเดนิมคือญี่ปุ่น และในขณะนี้เราไม่สามารถปฏิเสธได้ว่า กางเกงยีนส์ญี่ปุ่นคือที่สุดในโลก &
แจ็คเก็ต KJKT3 แสดงให้เห็นถึงข้อโต้แย้งดังงกล่าวได้เป็นอย่างดี
การพิจารณาแพทเทิร์นของแจ็คเก็ต
แจ็คเก็ตตามแพทเทิร์น original Type 3 มองแบบโมเดิร์นไปแล้วก็เหมือนว่า Type 3 จะเป็นที่ชื่นชอบมากกว่า Type 1 หรือ 2 อันเป็นเรื่องของขีดจำกัดทางความสามารถ ซึ่งจากการทดสอบคุณสมบัติในการจุสิ่งของ ผมคิดว่าแจ็คเก็ตควรมีช่องที่สามารถใส่สมาร์ทโฟนรุ่นใหม่ๆ หรืออย่างน้อย กระเป๋าการ์ดได้อย่างพอดีและปลอดภัย ซึ่ง Type 3 รองรับข้อนี้ไม่ได้ อย่างดีได้เพียงแค่กระเป๋าสตางค์ใบเล็กมากๆ หรือกล่องบุหรี่เท่านั้น
พิมพ์เขียว The KJKT3 รุ่นนี้แสดงให้เห็นถึงความเฉียบคมที่ต้องการการอัพเกรดจากความออริจินัลของ Type 3 ที่ผลิตโดย Levis เมื่อหลายสิบปีที่ผ่านมา ความยาวตามแบบสมัยนิยม และช่วงบนของลำตัวถูกตัดให้สั้นลงจนกลายเป็นแพทเทิร์น Boxy ได้สบายๆ บวกกับการปรับเปลี่ยนแบบเฉียบคมที่ว่านี้ คือการดีไซน์กระเป๋าหน้าอกและรอยตะเข็บไล่ยาวลงมาถึงชายแจ็คเก็ต ทำให้แพทเทิร์นด้านหน้าดูแล้วสมูท ไม่สะดุด
ด้วยการเพิ่มกระเป๋าข้างและการเย็บผ้าซับในอย่างชาญฉลาด Tanuki ได้ผลิตผลงานทางวิศวกรรม แจ็คเก็ต Type 3 ที่ไม่ได้มี 2 หรือ 4 กระเป๋า แต่มีถึง 6 กระเป๋าด้วยกัน ซึ่ง 4 ใน 6 นี้สามารถใส่สมาร์ทโฟน หรือกระเป๋าสตางค์พับ 2 ทบได้แบบชิลๆ และโปรดทราบว่าสิ่งนี้ผลิตขึ้นได้โดยไม่มีดราม่าหรือผลกระทบกับทรงแจ็คเก็ตเลยแม้แต่น้อย
ความสามารถพิเศษทางด้านการใช้งานนี้เป็นสิ่งที่มองข้ามความสำคัญไปไม่ได้ เพราะมันทำให้แจ็คเก็ต KJKT3 ตัวนี้มีฟังก์ชั่นการใช้งานตามแบบฉบับที่ควรจะเป็น ยกตัวอย่างเช่น ระหว่างทริปไปแอฟฟริกาของผม
แจ็คเก็ต KJKT3 สามารถจุกระเป๋าสตางค์, กล้อง, มือถือ, สแนคบาร์, ตั๋ว รวมถึงสมุดพาสปอร์ตของผมได้อย่างสมบูรณ์แบบ รวมถึงระหว่างการทำกิจกรรมปืนเขา, เดินป่า รวมถึงเข้าถ้ำ
เดนิม Kaze ที่ให้สีคอนทราสกับวิวจาก Torres del Paine ใน Chile
รับประกัน “เนื้อผ้า” ก็สุดยอดเช่นกัน
มีผู้ผลิตใหม่ๆ หลายรายเมื่อ 2-3 ปีที่ผ่านมา ที่เลิกล้มการสต๊อกยีนส์ 14 ออนซ์ ที่ถึงแม้ว่าจะเป็น Unsanforized หรือ Narrow-Loomed ในขณะที่เมื่อช่วงต้นปี 2010s การสต๊อกเดนิม Kaihara หรือ Cone เป็นสิ่งที่ต้องทำ เพื่อรองรับความต้องการของคนรักยีนส์ ซึ่งปัจจุบันนี้โปรไฟล์ของคนเล่นยีนส์คือการมองหาความแตกต่างทางด้านคาแรกเตอร์ของเดนิม เราอยู่ในช่วงที่คอมมูนิตี้ใฝ่หาผ้าคัสต้อมในทุกระดับราคา จริงจังถึงขนาดที่ว่า หากใครซื้อเดนิมผ้าทั่วไปด้วยเงิน 200-300 ดอลล่าห์ถือว่าไม่ฉลาด เพราะโปรยีนส์ต้องถือคติว่าลงทุนทั้งทีต้องลิมิเต็ดเท่านั้น
Tanuki ทำคอนเซปท์นี้ด้วยก้าวที่เหนือกว่า ในขณะที่หลายๆ แบรนด์เคลมว่านำเสนอผ้าญี่ปุ่นแบบใหม่ที่คิดค้นขึ้นเอง ซึ่งแท้ที่จริงแล้วมีเพียงแค่ไม่กี่จุดที่ปรับจากผ้ามาตรฐาน แต่ Tanuki ทำงานวิศวกรรมเดนิมออกมาได้อย่างสมบูรณ์ เดนิม Kaze เป็นผลลัพธ์ที่ไม่มีที่ติ
เปรียบเทียบกับแบรนด์ท็อปของญี่ปุ่นที่ก็นำเสนอเดนิมคัสต้อมเช่นกัน แบรนด์ Tanuki ก็ยังสร้างความแตกต่างด้วยการทำงานคราฟท์เดนิมในคราบโมเดิร์น แทนที่จะหยิบเอายีนส์มาปรับนิดๆ หน่อยๆ แบรนด์เลือกที่จะพัฒนามิติของอินดิโก้เฉด และทำให้ผ้ามีเท็กซ์เจอร์ที่ชัดเจนเพื่อใช้นำเสนอคาแร็กเตอร์ได้อย่างตรงคอนเซปท์ แก่นหลักของเดนิม Tanuki คือการทำให้เดนิมเข้ากันได้กับการแต่งตัวหลากหลายสไตล์ ทำให้ทั้งยีนส์และแจ็คเก็ตแมตช์ง่ายกับเสื้อผ้าที่ไม่ใช่แนวอเมริกันจ๋าในตู้เสื้อผ้าของคุณ
สีอันเป็นเอกลักษณ์ของผ้า Kaze พัฒนามาจากสีวินเทจของ Lee และ Wrangler ที่ได้รับการผลิตและปรับช่วงเวลาในการจุ่มย้อม ผลลัพธ์ที่ออกมาคือสีของเดนิมที่จัดจ้านและแตกต่าง ซึ่งนี่คือคอนเซปท์ที่ผมมองเห็นว่ามันมีความน่าสนใจอย่างมาก การผสมผสานยีนส์ Distressed รวมถึงความวินเทจให้เข้ากับเดนิม ทำให้เมื่อได้สวมใส่อินดิโก้เฉดสว่างสดใสสีนี้แล้ว นอกจากจะได้รับความไบรท์แบบโมเดิร์น คุณยังปั้นเฟดได้แบบชิลๆ อีกด้วย
สีอินดิโก้สว่างเฉดนี้ยังมีข้อดีอีกอย่างก็คือ เวลาคุณสวมแจ็คเก็ตตัวนี้คู่กันกับกางเกงยีนส์ จะทำให้ดูแล้วไม่น่าเกลียด ด้วย the KJKT3 คุณจะไม่รู้สึกเหมือนกับตัวเองกำลังสวมเดนิมทักซิโด้แบบเต็มยศ
เท็กซ์เจอร์และความโปร่งสบายของเดนิม Kaze คือผลลัพธ์ของทั้งการย้อมและการเลือกคอตต้อน เส้นด้ายแนวตั้งทอจากคอตต้อนเปรู เส้นใยแนวนอนมีเท็กซ์เจอร์ รวมกับการผสมผสานความนุ่มสบายจากเส้นใยสั้นแคลิฟอร์เียและสุพิม่า ตั้งค่าการทอให้อยู่ในระดับต่ำมากด้วยเครื่องทอ Toyota ที่ถึงแม้ความหนาแน่นของผ้าที่จะอยู่ในเกณฑ์จัดเต็ม แต่ผลลัพธ์ที่ได้มานั้นเป็นความลงตัวอย่างที่สุดระหว่างเท็กซ์เจอร์, ความแข็งแรง และความสว่าง สัมผัสด้วยมือคือให้ความรู้สึกแห้งกรอบ แต่นุ่มสบาย
เดนิม Kaze เมื่อเปรียบเทียบกับสีบริสุทธิ์ที่หาได้จากธรรมชาติ
ที่น้ำหนัก 13 ออนซ์นั้นค่อนข้างเบากว่าเดนิมทั่วไป เดนิม Kaze ถูกดีไซน์มาเพื่อทำให้แจ็คเก็ต KJKT3 สามารถสวมใส่ได้ในที่ๆ มีอากาศร้อนกว่าช่วงเฉลี่ยของการสวมแจ็คเก็ตปกติ หรือสามารถสวมเป็นเลเยอร์ในช่วงหน้าหนาว หรือจะแมตช์กับเสื้อยืดในช่วงที่อากาศไม่ร้อนมากก็เหมาะไปอีกแบบ อย่างในเคสของผมที่ไปปีนเขาใน Patagonia ที่ด้านล่างนี้ แจ็คเก็ต KJKT3 ก็ทำหน้าที่ในฐานะเสื้อคลุมเบาๆ ซึ่งขอบอกว่าเหมาะมากๆ
All in all, the KJKT3 มีจุดเด่นที่เป็นเอกลักษณ์คือเฉดสีอินดิโก้ ที่แค่มองแจ็คเก็ตแว้บเดียว ไอเทมก็อธิบายตัวเองได้เป็นอย่างดี แจ็คเก็ต Tanuki KJKT3 คือเดนิมแจ็คเก็ตที่คุณจะใส่บ่อยกว่าที่คิด และบ่อยกว่าตัวอื่นๆ ที่มีด้วยซ้ำ.
และเพื่อความสมดุล และไม่ให้เป็นการอวยจนเกินเหตุ แจ็คเก็ต KJKT3 ที่มีเฉดอินดิโก้สว่างนั้นดูเหมือนว่าจะเหมาะกับคนเล่นยีนส์ระดับกลาง และระดับโปรมากกว่าคนที่เพิ่งหัดเล่น ผมไม่ค่อยแนะนำให้คนที่เพิ่งซื้อยีนส์ญี่ปุ่นตัวแรก เลือกเล่นแจ็คเก็ตรุ่นนี้ ซึ่งจะดีกว่าหากคุณจะหันไปหา Tanuki’s Retro หรือ Natural Denim และยิ่งไปกว่านั้น ในตอนนี้ สไตล์โอลด์สคูลของ Levis แจ็คเก็ตก็มีออกมาเกลื่อนตลาดเต็มไปหมด ผมจึงได้แต่หวังว่า Tanuki จะทำงานคลาสสิคใหม่ๆ ของ Lee และ Wrangler ออกมาบ้างในอนาคต
ทั้งหมดทั้งมวล KJKT3 คือไอเทมแนะนำ
ด้วยราคาในช่วง 300 ดอลล่าห์ KJKT3 ถือว่าราคาอยู่ในเกณฑ์ดีสำหรับงานละเอียดจากญี่ปุ่น เดนิมแจ็คเก็ต เป็นไอเทมที่คุณสามารถรับได้ในช่วงราคา 300-500 ดอลล่าห์ ซึ่งรุ่นนี้ก็ราคาถูกกว่าแจ็คเก็ตรุ่นอื่นๆ ของแบรนด์ ที่โดยปกติแล้วจะอยู่ที่ 15-18 ออนซ์
เดนิม Kaze น่าจะเป็นคอลเลคชั่นเสริมชั้นยอดสำหรับคนรักยีนส์ที่มีประสบการณ์ในการเล่นยีนส์ ด้วยสีจัดจ้านและเท็กซ์เจอร์ชัดเจน แจ็คเก็ตรุ่นนี้ถือเป็นตัวเลือกพิเศษสำหรับคนชอบเดนิมแจ็คเก็ต ความสว่างของอินดิโก้เฉดนี้ทำให้คุณแต่งตัวแมตช์ได้ง่ายขึ้น แพทเทิร์นของ KJKT3 เป็นชิ้นงานที่ได้รับการพัฒนาในส่วนที่บกพร่องของแพทเทิร์นออริจินัลอย่าง 557XX และโปรดักช์ไลน์ของ Tanuki KT แจ็คเก็ตเป็นอะไรที่คุณต้องได้สัมผัส หากคุณเป็นแฟนแจ็คเก็ต Type 3
หลังจากได้อ่านรีวิวฉบับเต็มนี้จบแล้ว คุณอาจจะมีคอมเม้นท์หรือความเห็นที่อยากแชร์เกี่ยวกับ KJKT3 ทิ้งคอมเม้นท์ไว้ที่ด้านล่างได้เลย!
หากฟีเจอร์ทั้งหมดนี้ของแจ็คเก็ต KJKT3 โดนใจคุณล่ะก็ (ซึ่งเรามั่นใจว่ามันต้องโดน) คุณสามารถเป็นเจ้าของแจ็คเก็ตรุ่นนี้ได้ด้วยการคลิกช้อปเลยที่นี่.[:ms]Anda mungkin belum melihat salah satu jaket terbaik dari TANUKI: Jaket Kaze blueprint KJKT3, jadi sila baca ulasan dari denimhead kegemaran kami ‘Indigoshrimp’. Ulasan TANUKI: Jaket Kaze blueprint KJKT3 ini berkongsi semua butiran jaket yang menarik. Kami berharap ulasan ini akan membantu Anda semasa membeli jaket ini.
Tanuki Inc. Jepun – ULASAN JAKET KAZE BLUEPRINT KJKT3
2018/11/24 ~ INDIGOSHRIMP
Pembaca blog ini mungkin tahu bahawa saya selalu mengikuti perkembangan jenama Tanuki Inc. dari dua tahun yang lalu. Semasa saya mengkaji semula koleksi jeans Regular RR1 Retro, Tanuki baru saja mengambil langkah pertama di pasaran luar Jepun. Dalam masa yang sangat pengdek, Tanuki telah mempunyai kedudukan sebagai jenama denim Jepun utama dan menghasilkan koleksi berkualiti terbaik dengan fabrik denim yang menarik. Itulah yang menjadi kelebihan jenama mereka untuk menarik perhatian komuniti denim di luar Jepun, di mana Tanuki mempunyai daya tarik yang lebih daripada jenama denim Jepun lain.
Penggemar Tanuki memahami semangat profesional jenama ini dari tahun lalu. Dari perbualan saya dengan peruncit dan penjual jenama ini, produk Tanuki telah menjadi best-selling dari 18 bulan yang lalu. Inilah persoalan yang menarik: kenapa Tanuki sangat berjaya, manakala banyak denim baru lain yang tidak stabil dan hilang dari pasar denim dunia?
Ini bukanlah ulasan biasa kerana kita juga akan meneroka mengenai perubahan trend para penggemar denim semasa mengkaji semula tentang KJKT3 Tanuki – hasil reproduksi jaket Levi’s Type 3 dengan denim khusus Kaze daripada Tanuki seberat 13 oz.
Mari kita bermula di sini!
SEJARAH DAN CUTTING
Konsep KJKT3 Tanuki didasarkan kepada Jaket Levi’s Type 3 terkenal yang dihasilkan pada tahun 1962 dan dikenal sebagai model 557XX. Jaket type 3 adalah jaket denim paling ikonik sepanjang masa. Jaket Levi’s ini adalah jaket pertama yang memperkenalkan cutting “slim fit” dengan fabrik 14 oz yang lebih berat dibanding dengan jaket biasa lain yang mempunyai berat 8 hingga 9 oz.
Tanuki di atas garam Uyuni rata, Bolivia.
Tanuki mengikuti reka bentuk Type 3 ini, tetapi tentu saja, tidak semuanya. KJKT3 mempunyai lebih banyak reka bentuk terbaru – seperti fitting yang akan sesuai dengan bentuk badan Anda (yang dikenal sebagai fit standard) dan telah menambah panjang jaket.
Dalam penghasilan koleksi jaket KT, Tanuki telah banyak mengubah reka bentuk butiran jaket ini. Terutama, reka bentuk poket dada depan jaket yang sebelumnya mempunyai reka bentuk yang lebih condong dan kukuh, sekarang mempunyai reka bentuk tidak simetri.
Lebih pentingnya, jaket KJKT3 telah meningkatkan kualiti reka bentuk Type 3 dengan poket hangat yang dilengkapkan dengan lapisan dalam di kedua sisi poket. Ini adalah perubahan reka bentuk yang meningkatkan kapasiti penyimpanan dan keselesaan pemakai jaket ini.
Di atas garam putih, Anda boleh melihat warna biru dengan lebih kontras!
Saya mempunyai tinggi 185 cm dan berat 92 kg di gambar ini dan saya memakai jaket saiz 44 atau saiz terbesar. Jaket ini mempunyai banyak ruang dan saya dapat memakai 2 ataupun 3 baju tipis di dalamnya, seperti gambar di atas.
Selepas tiga minggu, KJKT3 terbukti sangat selesa selama saya aktif dalam aktiviti saya.
DENIM
Denim Kaze adalah salah satu edisi Tanuki terbaru pada tahun 2018 dan tersedia dalam versi one-washed.
Kaze diterjemah sebagai “angin” di bahasa Jepun yang kelihatan menakjubkan secara visual dengan warna indigo yang unik.
Warna jaket Kaze di bawah cahaya matahari.
Dengan berat 13 oz, Kaze adalah unsanforised denim yang termasuk dalam produk utama koleksi Tanuki yang ringan: bernafas, mempunyai berat sedang dengan warna yang indah.
Denim ini mempunyai warna yang lebih terang disebabkan oleh pelbagai faktor berbeza, termasuk pengurangan jumlah rope-dye dalam proses pencelupan, pengurangan masa proses pencelupan dan pendedahan oksigen yang lebih cepat selepas setiap proses pencelupan.
Warna biru terang ini mengingatkan saya kepada denim vintaj, terutama jeans Wrangler dan Maverick dari tahun 1960-an hingga 80-an – dengan warna greencast Kaze denim yang mengikuti pengoksidaan warna indigo Kaze (warna kuning dan hijau di dalam warna biru) dari masa ke masa.
Warna hijau pada warna biru denim ini nampak lebih jelas di bawah cahaya matahari, seperti yang Anda lihat pada gambar di bawah ini.
Warna denim di bawah cahaya matahari
Denim ini mempunyai benang warp berwarna indigo muda dan benang weft berwarna beige krim.
Bahagian benang warp mempunyai permukaan yang tidak teratur dengan slubs yang bersaiz kecil hingga sederhana. Berkat kapas Aspero Peruvian dan tenunan ketegangan ultra-rendah, denim ini mempunyai tekstur tapi tidak terlalu kasar.
Campuran kapas California berserat pendek dan kapas Supima berserat panjang menciptakan keseimbangan yang sangat baik antara tekstur crispy dan keselesaan.
Tekstur denim yang intense selepas peperiksaan yang lebih terperinci.
Anda juga akan melihat bahawa Kaze tidak mempunyai tekstur hairy atau nappy pada bahagian benang warp.
BUTIRAN & PEMBINAAN
Jaket ini mempunyai butiran baru dan ciri-ciri yang sama dengan jeans Tanuki yang lain.
Patch Tanuki kulit rusa standard adalah salah satu yang terbaik yang pernah saya lihat. Daripada pengalaman saya, patch ini akan terlihat elegan sepanjang masa.
Tulisan kanji ‘ni’ dipaparkan pada jaket ini dan pada jaket ini, dijahitkan pada bahagian bahu kanan.
Warna benang penjahitan yang kontras menambah gaya kerja dan kekukuhan profil bahagian belakang.
Benang berwarna kuning dan jingga yang kontras digunakan untuk menjahit keseluruhan jaket yang dikenal sebagai ciri original jaket Type 3.
Benang berwarna kuning digunakan pada garis jaket ini memberikan kesan yang sangat kontras dengan warna biru terang denim. Benang berwarna jingga digunakan untuk butiran lain dan penjahitan tepi.
Dengan menggunakan jarum tunggal dan ganda, hasil chain-stitch pada keseluruhan lapisan jaket mempunyai watak yang padat, sangat rapi dan berkualiti.
Benang berwarna biru muda yang digunakan di sepanjang penjahitan sisi jaket dan lubang butang cuff.
Jaket ini mempunyai gaya unik – layari bahagian logam butang Tanuki berikut!
Butang logam ini akan menghasilkan patina dengan cepat dan mencapai warna kelabu berlatar belakang warna perak gelap.
Butang belakang juga mempunyai simbol ‘Ni’.
Dengan butiran tersebut, Anda akan memahami bahawa Kaze denim mempunyai warna mempesona dan terlihat bertekstur di bawah cahaya matahari.
Lubang butang jaket ini dijahit secara padat dan kemas.
Seperti yang dikatakan sebelum ini, poket jaket ini mempunyai reka bentuk yang agak condong dengan garis jaket yang mempunyai bentuk yang lebih sederhana.
Poket hangat adalah butiran utama di sini.
Penjahitan poket mempunyai satu warna saja sehingga mereka terlihat teratur dan indah.
Selain itu, poket hangat jaket ini mempunyai selvedge untuk memaparkan gaya minimalis.
Fabrik poket jaket ini terbuat dari fabrik herringbone yang sama dengan bahan baju berkualiti, dikenal sebagai ciri jeans terbaru koleksi Tanuki.
Lapisan poket mempunyai penjahitan yang lebih mendalam di setiap sisi jaket untuk menambah ruang penyimpanan.
Anda juga akan memperhatikan lebih banyak watak selvedge pada sisi jaket ini.
Butang di kedua sisi mempermudah Anda yang mahu melakukan tuck-in jaket pada jeans Anda.
Akhirnya, tab Tanuki dijahit pada bahagian hem.
Secara keseluruhan, butiran jaket ini sangat kaya tetapi tidak berlebihan dengan struktur padat dan bersih.
PENDAPAT
Tanuki Inc. telah ada di pasaran selama dua tahun dan pengeluar denim Jepun ini mempunyai kemajuan yang ketara setakat ini. Jaket ini baru saja dilancarkan dengan versi jeans terbaru, peningkatan terperinci dan fabrik terbaru.
Seperti yang dapat Anda lihat di gambar di atas, versi terbaru dari koleksi jaket KT ini – KJKT3, mempunyai paparan yang sederhana, ketat dan sangat menarik!
Hasil pengeluaran produk Tanuki patut dipuji sebagai jenama yang cukup muda, dan saya belum pernah melihat jenama denim manapun yang mampu menciptakan fabrik khusus yang berkualiti dalam dua tahun pertama sejak jenama denim tersebut dibangun, juga dengan pengembangan model dan pelbagai collab banyak parti. Saya percaya bahawa hasil yang luar biasa ini dipengaruhi oleh penglibatan pakar profesional dalam pembangunan pengeluaran jenama ini.
Tanuki selalu meningkatkan produk secara cepat berdasarkan maklum balas daripada pengguna mereka dan mengalahkan jenama denim Jepun lain yang biasanya melambatkan permintaan pasar internasional. Semangat dan keberanian mereka untuk mengambil risiko telah membuat Tanuki menerima banyak perhatian dan menjadi perhatian utama di luar Jepun.
Kaze denim dengan latar belakang batu gunung berapi di Patagonia.
Perubahan fokus pengguna kepada denim reproduksi adalah faktor utama kejayaan jenama ini. Tentu saja, denim reproduksi telah dimulai di Jepun selama lebih dari satu dekad yang lalu. Pasaran denim Barat yang dipromosikan dalam talian memperlambat trend itu. Banyak jenama denim Jepun yang berupaya memasuki pelbagai pasaran internasional, tapi memperlihatkan kemajuan yang lambat. Dalam sepuluh tahun terakhir ini, hanya beberapa jenama Jepun yang mampu memperoleh penggemar yang besar di luar negara… Dalam beberapa kes, jenama ini telah menyebabkan konflik dalam penentuan identiti jenama. Tanpa mengubah produk adalah sangat sukar untuk mencari penggemar yang suka dengan denim ciptaan lokal Jepun.
Faktor-faktor lain juga mempengaruhi pasar internasional. Konsep dan pandangan gaya Amerika mulai berubah dengan kelemahan trend paparan Amerika. Penggemar denim generasi baru tidak lagi tertarik dengan pakaian dari abad pertengahan Amerika ini. Trend gaya Amekaji juga dipengaruhi dan mulai menghilang seperti trend gaya klasik Amerika ini.
Selain itu, semasa generasi penggemar denim global muncul, mereka berusaha untuk membezakan diri daripada jenama pendahulu mereka. Walaupun pada suatu waktu, butiran reproduksi dan siluet vintaj mengilham produksi produk terbaru dan banyak penggemar ini yang tidak lagi menginginkan gaya klasik seperti cliché denim seorang koboi atau konduktor kereta.
Pada akhirnya, pakaian reproduksi menjadi trend yang tidak realistik dengan daya tarik yang semakin terhad. Denim dungaree menjadi trend yang popular dengan praktikalnya dan reka bentuk yang minimalis, dengan penggemar yang masih kecil. Pemerhatian penting yang dapat diperhatikan termasuk kegagalan label reproduksi Lee dan Wrangler dalam beberapa tahun terakhir ini, dimana LVC mengganti fokus dari menyalin penuh produk reproduksi ke reka bentuk baru yang mengutamakan reka bentuk bergaya hidup.
Tanuki di lombong garam Inca, Peru.
Untuk mempromosikan penjualan dan menarik perhatian pelanggan, peralihan dari pakaian kerja Amekaji ke pakaian kasual denim moden bukan hal yang mudah bagi pengeluaran Jepun. Para tukang profesional industri Jepun menyedari kesulitan ini, jadi penciptaan terbaru dari Tanuki Inc. bukan hal yang mengejutkan – kenapa Anda membuat perubahan model yang rumit semasa Anda dapat menciptakan model yang baru? Lupakan elemen bergaya Amerika dari denim Jepun yang menghambat perhatian pelanggan baru, dan gabungkan kepakaran tradisional denim dengan gaya moden dan segala butiran yang sesuai dengan keinginan penggemar. Estetika yang diciptakan oleh inovasi terbaru ini lebih fleksibel dan mudah dipakai dengan pelbagai pakaian, termasuk dengan gaya streetwear.
Tentu saja, konsep di atas bukan hal baru. Dari awal tahun 2010, banyak jenama baru muncul dengan perkembangan trend “raw denim” dan minat terhadap pakaian “tradisional” lelaki, tapi hanya sedikit yang bertahan di pasar. Di Amerika, banyak jenama denim terbaru yang melayani komuniti denim dengan menawarkan jeans kraf moden yang lama, tapi hanya sedikit dari mereka yang telah mencapai standard kualiti yang ditetapkan oleh pakar Jepun. Di sebahagian besar negara Barat, penurunan sains teknologi dan jumlah pengeluaran denim adalah alasan utama hal tersebut. Selain itu, penutupan tanaman White Oak Cone adalah pengaruh utama yang dapat dilihat baru-baru ini. Tempat produksi murni denim dunia adalah Jepun, dan pada masa ini, kualiti denim dan jeans Jepun mempunyai status tertinggi.
Jaket KJKT3 menggambarkan beberapa hujah di atas dengan baik.
Corak jaket
Berdasarkan penggemar moden, jaket original type 3 mempunyai nilai estetika yang lebih menarik dan lebih berfungsi dibanding dengan jaket Type 1 dan 2 sebelumnya, tapi tanpa kapasiti yang besar. Kapasiti jaket yang menjadi standard iaitu memuat telefon bimbit dan mungkin satu dompet lagi – jaket Type 3 ini tidak mempunyai kapasiti ini kerana tidak dapat memuat telefon. Poket dada sekurang-kurangnya dapat memuat dompet kecil atau sekotak rokok.
Konsep jaket KJKT3 ini datang dari peningkatan jaket Type 3 yang telah dihasilkan bertahun-tahun sebelumnya. Panjang yang telah diubah dan bahagian atas jaket telah dipermudah menjadi bentuk persegi, dimana penyesuaian poket dada dengan penjahitan di sepanjang jaket menghasilkan paparan yang lebih ketat dari depan.
Selain menambah poket hangat dan penjahitan yang rapi pada lapisan dalaman fabrik, jaket Tanuki Type 3 tidak hanya mempunyai dua atau empat poket, tapi enam poket! Poket ini dapat memuat telefon bimbit atau dompet lipat. Perlu diperhatikan bahawa reka bentuk ini dihasilkan tanpa mengubah banyak dalam model dan saiz jaket ini.
Kapasiti tambahan ini sangat penting kerana ia meningkatkan fungsi jaket KJKT3 sebagai jaket universal. Sebagai contoh, selama perjalanan saya ke Amerika Selatan, KJKT3 mampu memuat dompet, kamera, telefon bimbit, snek, tiket dan dompet pasport saya selama aktiviti mendaki, trekking, memanjat dan meneroka gua.
Denim Kaze yang mempunyai paparan kontras dengan Torres del Paine, Chili.
FABRIK DAN KUALITI
Mengingat banyak jenama baru yang telah muncul dalam beberapa tahun terakhir, banyak komuniti penggemar denim yang berminat denim 14 oz, walaupun jika mereka adalah denim unsanforised atau mempunyai penenunan yang ketat. Pada awal tahun 2010, fabrik Kalihara atau Cone menguasai minat penggemar denim yang mencari lebih banyak karakter pada denim mereka. Banyak penggemar di komuniti kami berminat fabrik istimewa dengan harga yang berpatutan. Beberapa orang mengatakan bahawa jika Anda menghabiskan dua atau lebih dari tiga ratus dolar untuk koleksi denim, maka Anda seharusnya mendapatkan fabrik yang sangat unik.
Tanuki mengambil konsep ini satu langkah lebih maju: banyak jenama lain menawarkan fabrik Jepun yang eksklusif, di mana sebenarnya hanya satu atau dua fabrik denim yang diubah sepenuhnya dari produk standard. Tanuki merancang setiap fabrik denim dalam semua koleksi mereka secara keseluruhan, termasuk denim Kaze.
Dibanding dengan jenama Jepun lain yang terkenal dan juga menawarkan denim custom, Tanuki menarik perhatian dengan menawarkan denim moden dan bukan denim vintaj yang perubahan saja secara sederhana. Denim Tanuki telah mengembang spektrum warna indigo yang lebih bervariasi dengan persembahan tekstur beragam pada setiap fabrik. Denim ini sesuai dipakai dengan pelbagai gaya pakaian dan mungkin jeans/jaket ini untuk memaparkan gaya non-Americana/Amekaji dengan mudah.
Warna unik fabrik Kaze yang dikembangkan daripada warna vintaj denim Lee dan Wrangler, telah dihasilkan dengan perubahan ketara dalam jumlah dan tempoh pewarnaan dengan teknik pencelupan tali dengan waktu singkat pendedahan udara. Hasil denim ini menyerupai pengoksidaan denim secara bertahap selama beberapa dekad. Ini adalah konsep yang sangat menarik – campuran denim original dan denim distressed bergaya vintaj. Anda dapat memaparkan warna nostalgia indigo dan mendapatkan kesan fading & evolusi yang mempesona!
Warna indigo yang terang ini mempunyai kelebihan lain – gabungan jaket denim dan jeans yang stylish. Dengan KJKT3, Anda tidak akan pernah merasa seperti Anda memakai tuxedo denim.
Tekstur dan kehalusan denim Kaze adalah hasil penenunan dan penggunaan kapas berkualiti. Benang warp denim ini terbuat dari kapas Aspero Peruvian yang besar dan tebal. Benang weft ini adalah gabungan bertekstur yang selesa dan dibuat dari kapas California berserat pendek dan kapas Supima. Penenunan denim ini mempunyai ketegangan yang sangat rendah yang ditenun menggunakan mesin Toyota. Hasilnya, keseimbangan yang baik di antara tekstur dan kekuatan, serta permukaan yang crispy tapi selesa.
Denim Kaze dibandingkan dengan salah satu warna biru paling murni di alam: gletser Perito Moreno
Dengan berat 13 oz, denim Kaze mempunyai berat yang agak ringan berarti bahawa Kaze dan KJKT3 dapat dipakai dalam berbagai suhu dibanding dengan jaket denim yang lebih berat. Jaket ini dapat dipakai dalam cuaca dingin dan juga disesuaikan dengan baju-T dalam musim bunga. Misalnya, pada gambar berikut, saya mendaki di gletser Patagonia di mana jaket KJKT3 terlihat sangat menarik.
Secara keseluruhan, KJKT3 terlihat unik kerana jaket ini berwarna indigo dan mempunyai fungsi yang baik. Tentu saja, Tanuki KJKT3 adalah jaket denim yang akan Anda pakai lebih kerap kali dari jaket denim lain.
Saya berpendapat bahawa warna kontras dan tidak biasa dari jaket KJKT3 membuatnya menjadi denim “one-note” yang sesuai dipakaikan oleh penggemar denim tingkat menengah dan lanjutan. Jika Anda membeli denim Jepun pertama Anda, saya tidak mencadangkan denim ini, tapi Anda boleh mencuba jeans Retro atau Natural dari Tanuki. Apalagi, saya merasa bahawa jaket lama Levi’s telah lama ada di dalam pasaran penggemar denim, jadi saya harap bahawa Tanuki akan memperbarui jaket Lee dan Wrangler/Maverick klasik di masa depan.
Kesimpulannya, saya sangat mengesyorkan KJKT3
Jaket KJKT3 dengan harga sekitar US$300 cukup murah sebagai jaket denim Jepun dengan kualiti denim yang sama dengan julat harga US$300 hingga US$500. Jaket ini mempunyai harga yang sedikit lebih mahal dari jaket Tanuki lainnya kerana Kaze denim mempunyai berat yang lebih ringan daripada fabrik Tanuki lain (biasanya 15 hingga 18 oz).
Kaze denim akan menjadi koleksi tambahan yang bagus untuk penggemar denim dengan warna yang menarik dan tekstur yang kuat. Ini juga adalah pilihan yang sesuai untuk pencinta jaket denim, kerana warna indigo yang terang membuatnya lebih mudah untuk dipakai dengan jeans. Corak jaket KJKT3 telah ditingkatkan dengan corak original 557XX dan koleksi jaket KT Tanuki juga seharusnya Anda layari jika Anda meminati jaket Type 3.
Setelah membaca ulasan produk ini, Anda mungkin mempunyai perspektif / pendapat Anda sendiri tentang jaket KJKT3. Berikan komen di bawah dan berkongsi pendapat Anda bersama kami!
Jika butiran KJKT3 ini menarik bagi Anda (dan kami yakin ya), sila klik di sini untuk berbelanja sekarang.[:ko]타누키 (TANUKI) 베스트 자켓 중 하나인 KAZE 청데님 자켓 KJKT3을 아직 확인하지 못했다면, 데님 전문가 indigoshrimp의 KJKT3리뷰를 확인하세요. 타누키 데님 자켓을 살까말까 고민 중이이시라면 꼭 한 번 읽어보세요.
Tanuki Inc. Japan – KAZE 블루 프린트 자켓 KJKT3 리뷰
2018/11/24 ~ INDIGOSHRIMP
제 블로그를 꾸준히 읽어왔던 독자들이라면 지난 2년 동안 제가 Tanuki Inc.를 주목하고 있다는 것을 아실텐데요. Retros Regular RR1 데님을 리뷰했을 때, 타누키(Tanuki)는 일본 시장에서 첫 발을 막 내딘 상태였습니다. 놀랍게도 타누키(Tanuki)는 짧은 시간 안에 주요 일본 데님 브랜드로서의 위치를 강화하여 흥미진진한 데님 원단을 개발하고 발전 시켰습니다. 덕분에 이전 일본 데님과 비교했을 때 뒤지지 않고 많은 관심을 받을 수 있었습니다.
사실, 타누키(Tanuki) 는 데님의 시대 정신을 잘 포착한 덕분에 지난 18개월 동안 베스트 셀러는 타누키였다고 데님 전문 유통업체 및 대리점들이 말하고 있습니다. 이 점은 매우 흥미로운 부분입니다. 왜 많고 많은 데님 브랜드들 중 타누키가 성공했을까요?
리바이스 3세대 자켓의 복각품인 타누키 13온스 카제(Kaze) 데님을 리뷰해보고자 합니다. 자세한 내용은 아래서 확인하세요!
역사와 컷
KJKT3는 1962 년 557XX로 탄생한 리바이스의 유명한 3세대 자켓을 기반으로 합니다. 3세대 자켓은 가장 상징적인 데님 재킷이며, 14온스 직물을 사용해 “슬림핏” 으로 제작된 14 온스 데님 자켓이었습니다.
볼리비아의 유우니 사막 소금 위의 Tanuki.
타누키 (Tanuki)의 3세대 자켓은 단순 복각품이 아닙니다. KJKT3 는 요즘 기준으로 미디엄 핏과 비슷한 실루엣으로 자켓 길이가 조금 더 늘어난 업데이트 버전입니다.
타누키 (Tanuki)는 KT 재킷 시리즈의 첫 번째 출시 이후 재킷의 일부 라인을 추가로 변경했습니다. 주목할 만한 점은 앞 가슴 포켓이 더 기울어져 있는 비대칭입니다.
무엇보다 KJKT3 은 핸드워머 포켓과 이너 포켓 디자인으로 업그레이드된 3세대 자켓입니다. 때문에 자켓의 넉넉한 포켓으로 착용자의 편의성을 크게 향상시켰습니다.
순수한 흰색 소금길 덕분에 보다 선명한 블루를 확인할 수 있습니다!
저는 44 사이즈를 입는 키 185cm, 체중 92kg의 남성임을 감안하면 자켓이 크게 제작되었음을 확인할 수 있습니다. 자켓 안에 2-3개의 레이어를 충분히 입을 수 있을 정도로 넉넉한 사이즈입니다.
3주 동안 착용해 본 결과, KJKT3 가 외부 활동에 매우 편안하다는 것을 확인할 수 있었습니다.
데님
Kaze 데님은 타누키(Tanuki)의 2018년 제작된 데님 중 하나이며, 원 워시(One-washed)로 판매 중입니다. Kaze는 일본어로 바람을 뜻하며, 독특한 인디고 셰이드로 색상이 매우 눈에 띕니다.
햇빛 아래에서 확인해본 데님 색상
언샌포라이즈 13온스 데님 Kaze 는 Tanuki의 경량 데님의 표본입니다. 통기성도 좋고, 색상 또한 훌륭합니다.
인디고의 밝은 셰이드는 여러 가지 요소에 의해 발생합니다. 예를 들어, 로프 염색 딥의 감소, 각 딥(dip)의 시간 감소 및 딥(dip) 이후 산화에 얼마나 빨리 노출되는지에 따라서 말이죠.
밝은 블루는 특히 1960년대에서 1980년대 데님의 Wrangler 및 Maverick 을 연상시킵니다. Kaze 데님에 살짝 비치는 그린 컬러 인디고의 산화 과정을 모방하여 발생한 결과라 생각합니다.
아래 사진처럼 따뜻한 햇빛 아래서 블루 안의 초록 색상을 더 뚜렷이 확인할 수 있습니다.
따뜻한 햇빛 아래에서의 데님 색상.
데님은 라이트 인디고 워프(가로실)와 베이지 웨프트(세로실)로 제작되었습니다.
워프는 불규칙적이지만, 데님에 사용된 페루 Aspero면과 낮은 장력 덕분에 데님의 텍스쳐가 그리 거친 편은 아닙니다.
짧은 스테이플 면인 캘리포니아 면과 긴 스테이플 면인 수피마 면을 웨프트에 사용해 색의 선명함과 착용시 편안함이 조화를 이루어 제작되었습니다.
자세히 보면 텍스쳐가 다소 강합니다.
Kaze는 네프(neppy)한 텍스쳐의 데님이 아니기 때문에 워프를 즐기는데 방해하지 않습니다.
디테일과 구성
데님 자켓은 업데이트 버전으로, Tanuki 의 최신 데님과 많은 부분이 비슷합니다.
Tanuki 의 사슴 가죽 패치는 제가 본 것 중 가장 근사한 것인데요. 시간이 지남에 따라 더욱 우아하게 착용할 수 있을 거라 확신합니다.
한자 ‘2’ 가 오른쪽 어깨에 새겨져 있습니다.
패치의 콘트라스트 스티칭은 자켓의 디테일과 견고함을 함께 살립니다.
3세대 자켓에는 레몬색과 오렌지색 실이 사용되었습니다.
레몬색 실이 데님 자켓에 전체적으로 사용되어 화려한 블루와 잘 대조됩니다. 또한 오렌지색 실은 자켓의 디테일을 위해 중간중간 사용되었습니다.
솔기를 접어보면 체인 스티치가 깔끔하게 정돈된 것을 확인할 수 있습니다.
데님 자켓의 시그니처 컬러인 라이트 블루 실이 소매의 단추 구멍 측면을 따라 사용되었습니다.
자켓의 업그레이된 부분을 확인하고 싶으시다면, 타누키(Tanuki)의 금속 단추를 확인하세요!
금속 단추는 다소 빨리 녹청이 생기기 시작하기 때문에 은색 바탕에 어두운 회색 음영을 띄게 됩니다
스터드는 ‘Ni’로 맞춤 제작되었습니다.
이를 통해 Kaze 데님의 색상과 텍스쳐를 한층 더 잘 느끼실 수 있습니다.
수 놓은 단추 구멍 역시 깔끔하게 잘 마무리되었습니다.
앞에서 언급했듯이 데님 자켓의 포켓이 경사지고 오프셋되어 있어 재킷의 라인이 더욱 살아납니다.
데님 자켓의 포인트인 핸드 워머를 통해 따뜻함을 더합니다.
주머니 부분 역시 깔끔하게 마무리되었습니다.
핸드워머 포켓은 매끄러운 구성을 위해 셀비지로 마무리 되었습니다.
포켓 천은 타누키의 최신 데님과 동일한 헤링본 원단으로 제작되었습니다.
주머니 안감은 데님 자켓 내부에 깊게 제작되어 저장 용량 또한 충분합니다.
자켓 안에는 셀비지를 더 많이 확인하실 수 있어요.
허리 안으로 옷을 집어 넣고 싶은 경우에 대비해 단추가 양쪽에 모두 달려있습니다.
마지막으로, Tanuki 탭은 밑단에서 확인할 수 있습니다.
전체적으로 디테일이 풍부하고 구성이 깨끗함을 느낄 수 있습니다.
정리하며
Tanuki Inc.는 이제 2년이 되었지만, 지금까지 놀라운 발전을 이루었습니다. 자켓 라인의 경우 불과 몇 달 전에 출시했음에도 타누키의 리바이스 복각 자켓은 디테일과 패브릭을 꾸준히 업데이트 하며 놀라운 속도로 진화하고 있습니다.
위의 사진에서 볼 수 있듯이 KT 재킷 시리즈는 매우 잘 만들어졌으며, 디테일 또한 매우 훌륭합니다. KJKT3 는 깔끔하고 스타일이 살아있는 데님입니다.
타누키(Tanuki)는 이제 막 진출한 젊은 데님 브랜드에게서는 찾아 볼 수 없는 놀라운 정교함을 가지고 있습니다. 패브릭, 패턴 개발 및 다양한 콜라보 등은 칭찬할만 합니다. 아마 이 브랜드 내부에는 업계의 데님 베테랑들이 깊이 관여하고 있을거라 생각됩니다.
타누키(Tanuki)는 소비자 피드백을 기반으로 한 꾸준한 업데이트, 오픈 마인드및 위험을 감수하려는 의지가 있어 타누키는 일본 밖에서 많은 관심과 시장 점유율을 차지할 수 있었습니다.
파타고니아의 화산암을 배경으로 한 Kaze 데님.
데님 복각품의 경우 일본에서 많이 제작되고 있으며, 대다수의 일본 데님 브랜드가 해외 데님 마켓으로 진출하려고 노력해왔으나 그 중 일부만이 성공할 수 있었습니다. 그러던 중 일부 브랜드에서는 브랜드의 정체성에 혼란을 겪기도 했는데, 그 이유는 바로 데님의 변형이나 문화 없이 데님 마니아들의 관심을 사로잡기 어려웠기 때문입니다.
이에 아메카지 스타일의 개념과 그 전망 역시 변화하고 있습니다. 미국의 파워가 예전에 비해 줄어들면서 데님 마니아 사이에서 미국의 황금기라고 불리는 시대의 요소들이 점차 줄어들고 있습니다.
게다가 새로운 데님 마니아들이 등장하면서 본능적으로 이전의 데님 마니아들과 차별화를 모색하고 있습니다. 복각품의 경우 빈티지에 영감을 받은 실루엣이 인기를 끌었으나 요즘의 데님 마니아들은 카우보이나 기관차의 코스프레 하길 원치 않습니다.
마지막으로 복각품의 비실용적인 측면은 요즘 구매자들에게 매력적으로 다가오지 않습니다. Lee와 Wrangler의 복각품이 실패한 가장 큰 이유는 바로 실용성에 중점을 두지 않아 발생했습니다. 이에 리바이스는 순수 복각품이 아닌 착용자의 라이프 스타일에 초점을 전환하였습니다.
페루 잉카 소금 광산에서의 타누키
순수 아메카지 워크웨어에서 현대 데님 캐주얼 웨어에 이르는 변화를 만드는 것은 쉬운 일이 아닙니다. 이런 어려움을 잘 알고 있기 때문에 일본의 데님 업계 관계자는 타누키의 변화가 놀랍습니다. 데님의 합리적 제작을 통해 탄생한 데님은 훨씬 더 다목적이며 접근하기 쉬울 뿐만 아니라 모든 스타일의 의류와 잘 통합됩니다.
물론 위에서 설명한 개념은 새로운 것이 아닙니다. 2010년 초반부터 수 십 개의 새 브랜드가 ‘로우 데님’ 과 ‘헤리티지’ 트렌드에 관심을 가졌지만 소수만 살아남았습니다. 아메카지 본 고장이라고 불리는 일본에서 많은 아메카지 데님 브랜드가 생겼으나, 일본 제조업체가 정한 기준에 도달한 것은 거의 없습니다. 현재 서구 국가에서 데님 기술자 및 데님 제작 감소로 인해 이제 데님의 메카는 당분간 일본일 예정입니다.
KJKT3 자켓은 위의 논점을 잘 설명합니다.
자켓의 패턴을 고려해 보세요
최초의 3세대 자켓은 1세대, 2세대 자켓에 비해 전체적으로 아름다웠지만 자켓의 수용 능력이 크게 떨어졌습니다. 최소한 스마트폰이나 카드 지갑을 넣고 다닐만해야 하지만 3세대 자켓의 경우 휴대 전화도 수용할 수 없었습니다. 고작 작은 지갑이나 담배 한 값을 휴대할 정도였습니다.
KJKT3 는 리바이스가 몇 해 전 제작한 오리지널 3세대 자켓에 필요한 부분을 업그레이한 자켓입니다. 모던한 길이와 박시형 실루엣 뿐만 아니라 가슴 주머니도 미묘하게 조정하여 매끄럽게 자켓을 제작하였습니다.
핸드 워머와 내부 안감을 통해 타누키는 6개의 포켓을 지닌 3세대 자켓으로 제작했습니다. 그 중 네 개는 스마트폰을 수용할만한 크기의 포켓입니다. 전체적인 자켓 라인이나 핏을 크게 변경하지 않고도 이와 같은 변화를 이뤄냈습니다.
여분의 포켓을 통해 자켓의 실용성은 극대화됩니다. KJKT3 는 다용도 자켓으로 사용할 수 있는데요. 제가 남아메리카로 여행갔을 때 지갑, 카메라, 핸드폰, 스낵바, 티켓 및 여권을 편안하게 보관할 수 있었습니다.
칠레 토레스 델 페인 (Turres del Paine)과 대조적 미를 뽐내는 Kaze 데님 자켓.
패브릭 역시 보장합니다.
오늘날에 많은 데님 마니아들이 데님의 특성에 주목하며 구매하고 있습니다. 때문에 각자 예산 단계에 맞는 맞춤식 패브릭을 찾고있는 경향이 있습니다.
Tanuki 는 위의 개념에서 한 걸음 더 나아갑니다. 많은 일본 데님 브랜드가 오리지널 일본 원단을 독점적으로 제공한다 할지라도 실제 데님 중 하나 또는 두 개의 매개 변수가 표준 제품에서 변경되므로 타누키는 처음부터 데님을 각각 설계했습니다. Kaze 데님도 예외는 아닙니다.
Tanuki 는 맞춤형 데님을 제공하는 다른 최상위 레벨의 일본 데님 브랜드와 비교했을 때, 빈티지 데님이 미묘하게 개선된 버전이 아닌, 최신 버전의 데님을 제공화함으로써 차별화를 두고 있습니다. 개선 된 버전이 아닌 최신 버전의 공예 데님을 제공함으로써 차별화되었습니다. Tanuki의 코어 데님은 바로 다양한 드레스 코드에 매치할 수 있는 스타일을 제공하기 때문에 논 아메카지 또는 아메카지 스타일과 쉽게 통합할 수 있습니다.
리(Lee)와 랭글러 데님 (Wrangler denim)의 빈티지 색상을 염두하여 개발된 카제(Kaze)의 독특한 색상은 로프 염색 딥(dips)의 횟수와 지속 시간 뿐만 아니라 각 딥(dips) 과정을 거친 후 공기 노출까지의 시간을 대폭적으로 변경하여 제작되었습니다. 노스탤지어를 불러일으키는 인디고 셰이드는 앞으로도 멋진 페이딩을 기대할 수 있습니다.
인디고의 밝은 셰이드 자켓은 청바지와 함께 입어도 그 어색함이 느껴지지 않습니다. KJKT3으로 데님 턱시도를 입었다는 생각이 들지 않으실거에요!
Kaze 데님의 짜임새와 통풍성은 직조 방식과 면화 선택의 결과입니다. 워프는 부피가 큰 페루 아스 페로 면이고, 웨프트는 텍스쳐를 느낄 수 있으나, 짧은 스테이플 캘리포니아 면화와 수피마 면이 편안하게 조화를 이루고 있습니다. 토요타 룸을 이용해 초저 장력을 이용해 제작되며, 패브릭의 밀도는 고르게 유지됩니다. 그 결과 데님의 질감과 밝기, 내구성 및 감촉이 좋은 제품이 탄생하게 됩니다.
Kaze 데님 자켓의 색상을 Perito Moreno 빙하의 순수한 화이트와 대조해 비교해 보세요
KJKT3 는 13 온스로 무거운 데님 자켓에 다양한 계절에 따라 착용 가능합니다. 추운 날씨에는 여러 레이어를 해서 입을 수 있고, 따뜻한 날씨에는 간단하게 티셔츠를 입고 걸칠 수 있습니다. 파타고니아 빙하에서 하이킹하는 사진을 확인해 보세요. KJKT3 는 경량 자켓임에도 그 기능이 우수합니다.
전체적으로 KJKT3 자켓은 독특한 색감과 다재다능한 기능으로 매력을 뽐냅니다. 다시 말해 타누키의 KJKT3 데님 자켓은 다른 데님 자켓보다 훨씬 자주 입을 수 있습니다.
Kaze는 독특한 색상 때문에 중급 및 고급 수준의 데님 마니아에게 적합합니다. 예를 들어 처음으로 일본 데님을 구입하는 경우 이를 권장하지 않으며, 대신 타누키(Tanuki)의 레트로 또는 내츄럴 데님으로 시작하라고 추천드리고 싶습니다. 또한 리바이스의 자켓 스타일이 이미 포화 상태이므로, 추후 Lee 또는 Wrangler / Maverick 자켓으로 업데이트된 복각 제품을 볼 수 있었으면 좋겠습니다.
전반적으로 봤을 때 KJKT3 를 강력히 추천합니다.
300달러 짜리 KJKT3 는 USD $300 to $500의 가격 범위에서 기대할 수 있는 모든 기능을 갖춘 훌륭한 데님 자켓입니다. 다른 타누키 원단과 비교했을 때 Kaze 데님의 경량성 때문에 약간 저렴한 편입니다. 타누키 원단은 보통 15온스~18온스 사이입니다.
Kaze 데님은 뛰어난 색상과 강한 텍스쳐로 데님 마니아들의 열광하고 있습니다. 제 개인적으로도 이 데님 자켓으로 다른 데님과 매치가 쉽기 때문에 좋습니다. KJKT3 자켓 패턴은 오리지널 557XX 패턴에 많은 개선이 필요합니다. 또한 Tanuki의 KT 자켓 라인은 3세대를 눈여겨 보는 분께 추천할만한 아이템입니다.
제품 리뷰를 잘 읽으셨나요? KJKT3 재킷에 대한 여러분의 의견을 남겨주세요!
KJKT3 자켓이 마음에 들었다면 여기를 클릭해 쇼핑하세요! [:]