[:en]Embrace the wabi sabi characteristics of raw denim[:id]Merangkul karakteristik wabi sabi dari denim mentah[:zh]拥抱原始牛仔布的侘寂特点[:de]Embrace the wabi sabi characteristics of raw denim[:es]Embrace the wabi sabi characteristics of raw denim[:fr]Embrace the wabi sabi characteristics of raw denim[:it]Embrace the wabi sabi characteristics of raw denim[:pt]Embrace the wabi sabi characteristics of raw denim[:ru]искренне встретьте характеристики wabi sabi сырого денима[:th]ลักษณะของวาบิ-ซาบิ wabi sabi ของผ้าเดนิมดิบ[:ja]生デニムの侘び寂びの特徴を取り入れる[:ms]Hayati ciri wabi sabi denim mentah[:ko]생지 데님의 와비 사비 특징 수용[:]

Currently, when it comes to truly high-quality traditional denim that reflects the traditions of the past to the greatest extent, Japanese jeans specifically come to mind in the first place. If you take such an item in your hands for the first time in your life, you will surely be struck by the special “handmade” quality of such items, the elaborateness of the details, and the uneven texture of the denim. At the same time, such jeans are far from always being perfectly even, symmetrical, etc. Often, manufacturers deliberately try to emphasize the characteristic “wabi-sabi” of Japanese products, where the greatest beauty lies not in the absolute perfection of forms but in a certain degree of intentionally permissible “defects,” which are quite insignificant and in no way affect the quality of the product itself. However, it is precisely this “finishing touch” that gives the overall impression of completeness to the whole “picture,” where classic jeans serve as the canvas, and some elements perceived by people as defects actually give us the feeling that these jeans are made by living people, not soulless machines. Today, we will try to examine some of these elements, and perhaps the manufacturer’s approach to making such jeans will become clearer to you.

• Leg Twist

It often happens that a person buys an excellent pair of jeans, sometimes spending a considerable amount of money, shrinks them, and puts them on. And what does he see? One of the legs (most often the left one, when the twill direction is to the right) suddenly turns out to be heavily twisted, so much so that the selvedge edge is almost next to the inseam. In fact, there is no need to despair. This is not a defect or flaw. This is an acceptable, and sometimes intentionally made, element characteristic of classic raw denim. The point is that cotton fibers will inevitably shrink when soaked and dried, and thus, the threads will inevitably twist the denim itself, from which the jeans are sewn, in the direction of the twill. In some cases, manufacturers seek to emphasize this feature even more by initially cutting the legs in such a way that the leg twist is more pronounced. Leg twist does not affect the quality of the jeans themselves or their ease of use, and you will stop noticing it literally within a few hours.

By the way, if you are a staunch opponent of leg twist, then simply try to choose jeans with minimal shrinkage, and therefore, minimal twisting of the leg. First of all, pay attention to jeans made of sanforized denim. If you do not wash such jeans at a very hot temperature, then most likely the leg twist will be minimally expressed or absent altogether.

• Slight difference in pant leg length

Yes, such a nuance is also possible. Again, this is not about any negligence in production. More often than not, it is directly related to the shrinking of the jeans themselves. Regardless of whether you shrink the jeans yourself or if you bought a version of jeans with factory shrinkage (one wash), such a nuance can be noticeable. This can be particularly evident if you wear jeans with rolled-up cuffs. If you put on shrunk jeans, button them up, and look at your rolled-up cuffs, you may notice that the cuff on one leg may be slightly shorter than the other (literally by 5mm). This is a completely normal situation, which is exacerbated by the fact that, as a rule, the human body is not entirely symmetrical. One leg (often the right one) may be slightly longer than the other. Therefore, in the case of jeans with rolled-up cuffs, this can also be noticeable. The solution to the problem is very simple – just wear your jeans with pleasure, and you will quickly forget about this “issue.”

• Stretched (baggy) knees on jeans

Many people, upon starting to wear authentic classic jeans, begin to notice that the fabric gradually starts to stretch. This can be particularly noticeable in the knee area. The reason for this is not that jeans (in the traditional sense) are always made of 100% cotton. As is known, cotton shrinks when soaked and dried and stretches as it is worn. Threads made from cotton with shorter fibers stretch less, while threads made from cotton with longer fibers stretch more. However, any classic jeans will stretch in areas where there is tension. In essence, they should be like this. They are, in a sense, a “living” item. Just as their color changes due to friction, their shape also changes due to the movement of the wearer. Jeans stretch somewhere, they develop wrinkles somewhere else – this is absolutely natural and normal for jeans. If slightly stretched knees seem too unsightly to you, simply turn the jeans inside out. Lightly spray water and carefully iron these areas. This will take no more than 2-3 minutes. You can repeat this process as needed at any time.

• The folds, creased fabric on jeans and denim jackets

It is worth mentioning that these characteristics are typically inherent in jeans or denim jackets that have undergone the shrinking process directly at the factories (one wash). Often, jeans are washed and dried at high temperatures to avoid any further shrinkage. Many people prefer this type of product when they are confident that the jeans or jackets they receive do not need to be washed again, fearing that they will shrink.
Sometimes, various folds or creases may appear on one wash denim as a result of washing and drying in industrial conditions. Yes, when you first unpack the item and have not yet been acquainted with one wash denim, these “wrinkles” may puzzle you a bit. In fact, it’s much simpler than it seems. Either, as mentioned earlier, gently iron the item from the inside out (avoiding applying pressure on the seams), or simply start wearing the item “as is.” All the irregularities will smooth out fairly quickly, and the denim will stretch in some areas. The item will look great, and you won’t even remember the initial appearance of such jeans or jackets.

•  Slubs in denim

Denim woven on shuttle looms will to some extent be uneven, even if it’s not what’s commonly referred to as “slubby denim.” Thread spun on ring spinning machines may also have varying thicknesses throughout its length. Manufacturers often intentionally use cotton with uncombed ultra-short fibers, which also make the denim intentionally coarse. Occasionally, if you examine the face side of the denim very carefully, you may find skipped stitches, slubs, and other such occurrences, which also are not defects. These are precisely the characteristics of such an archaic type of denim production.

Thus, we see that classic Japanese jeans are an absolute handmade product. Some features of such jeans, which an unknowledgeable person might consider defects, are not actually defects at all. Often, they simply indicate the peculiarities of a particular production process, and sometimes manufacturers intentionally emphasize such details, aiming to give their jeans a “handmade,” “vintage” look. In essence, the charm of an authentic product largely consists of many small details, some of which may not always be obvious to the jeans wearer, and some may even appear as carelessness. After all, many of us love uneven, rugged, slubby denim that resembles material made by hand. All the other details, whether it’s leg twist, intentionally uneven stitching, etc., are essentially the same – an indication that this item was made by people and for people.

Saat ini, ketika membicarakan tentang denim tradisional berkualitas tinggi yang benar-benar mencerminkan tradisi masa lalu dengan sebaik-baiknya, jeans Jepang khususnya langsung terlintas dalam pikiran. Jika Anda memegang barang seperti itu untuk pertama kalinya dalam hidup Anda, Anda pasti akan terkesan oleh kualitas “handmade” yang istimewa dari barang-barang tersebut, kecermatan detailnya, dan tekstur tidak rata dari denim tersebut. Pada saat yang sama, jeans semacam itu jauh dari sempurna dalam hal keteraturan, simetri, dll. Seringkali, produsen dengan sengaja mencoba untuk menekankan “wabi-sabi” khas produk Jepang, di mana keindahan terbesar tidak terletak pada kesempurnaan mutlak bentuk tetapi pada tingkat tertentu dari “cacat” yang diizinkan secara disengaja, yang cukup tidak signifikan dan tidak sama sekali memengaruhi kualitas produk itu sendiri. Namun, justru “sentuhan terakhir” ini yang memberikan kesan keseluruhan kesempurnaan pada “gambar” secara keseluruhan, di mana jeans klasik berfungsi sebagai kanvas, dan beberapa elemen yang dipandang oleh orang sebagai cacat sebenarnya memberikan kita perasaan bahwa jeans ini dibuat oleh orang-orang hidup, bukan mesin tanpa jiwa. Hari ini, kami akan mencoba untuk meneliti beberapa elemen ini, dan mungkin pendekatan produsen dalam membuat jeans semacam itu akan menjadi lebih jelas bagi Anda.

• Pelekukan Kaki

Seringkali terjadi bahwa seseorang membeli sepasang jeans yang sangat bagus, kadang-kadang menghabiskan sejumlah uang yang cukup besar, menyusutkannya, dan mengenakannya. Dan apa yang dia lihat? Salah satu kaki (paling sering kaki kiri, ketika arah twill ke kanan) tiba-tiba terasa sangat melengkung, begitu parah sehingga tepi selvedge hampir berdampingan dengan jahitan dalam. Sebenarnya, tidak perlu putus asa. Ini bukanlah sebuah cacat atau kekurangan. Ini adalah elemen yang dapat diterima, dan terkadang dibuat dengan sengaja, yang merupakan ciri khas dari denim mentah klasik. Intinya adalah serat kapas akan menyusut secara tidak terhindarkan ketika direndam dan dikeringkan, dan dengan demikian, benang akan memutar denim itu sendiri, dari mana jeans tersebut dijahit, ke arah twill. Dalam beberapa kasus, produsen berusaha untuk menekankan fitur ini bahkan lebih dengan awalnya memotong kaki-kaki dengan cara yang membuat pelekukan kaki lebih menonjol. Pelekukan kaki tidak mempengaruhi kualitas jeans itu sendiri atau kemudahan penggunaannya, dan Anda akan berhenti memperhatikannya dalam waktu beberapa jam.

By the way, jika Anda adalah penentang teguh dari pelekukan kaki, maka cobalah untuk memilih jeans dengan penyusutan minimal, dan oleh karena itu, pemutarbalikan kaki minimal. Pertama-tama, perhatikan jeans yang terbuat dari denim sanforized. Jika Anda tidak mencuci jeans semacam itu pada suhu yang sangat panas, maka kemungkinan besar pelekukan kaki akan diekspresikan secara minimal atau bahkan tidak ada sama sekali.

• Perbedaan sedikit dalam panjang kaki celana

Ya, nuansa seperti itu juga mungkin terjadi. Sekali lagi, ini bukan tentang kelalaian dalam produksi. Lebih sering daripada tidak, ini terkait langsung dengan penyusutan jeans itu sendiri. Terlepas dari apakah Anda menyusutkan jeans itu sendiri atau jika Anda membeli versi jeans dengan penyusutan pabrik (satu cuci), nuansa seperti itu bisa terlihat. Ini bisa terlihat terutama jika Anda mengenakan jeans dengan gulungan kaki. Jika Anda mengenakan jeans yang sudah menyusut, mengancingkan, dan melihat gulungan kaki Anda, Anda mungkin akan memperhatikan bahwa gulungan kaki di satu kaki mungkin sedikit lebih pendek dari yang lain (hanya sekitar 5mm). Ini adalah situasi yang benar-benar normal, yang diperparah oleh kenyataan bahwa, pada umumnya, tubuh manusia tidak sepenuhnya simetris. Salah satu kaki (seringkali kaki kanan) mungkin sedikit lebih panjang dari yang lain. Oleh karena itu, dalam hal jeans dengan gulungan kaki, ini juga bisa terlihat. Solusi atas masalah ini sangat sederhana – cukup kenakan jeans Anda dengan senang hati, dan Anda akan segera melupakan “masalah” ini.

• Lutut jeans yang melar (kendor)

Banyak orang, ketika mulai mengenakan jeans klasik yang autentik, mulai memperhatikan bahwa kain secara bertahap mulai meregang. Ini bisa terlihat terutama di area lutut. Alasannya bukan karena jeans (secara tradisional) selalu terbuat dari 100% kapas. Seperti yang diketahui, kapas menyusut saat direndam dan dikeringkan dan meregang saat digunakan. Benang yang terbuat dari kapas dengan serat pendek meregang lebih sedikit, sementara benang yang terbuat dari kapas dengan serat panjang meregang lebih banyak. Namun, setiap jeans klasik akan meregang di area yang tegang. Pada dasarnya, mereka harus seperti ini. Mereka, dalam arti, adalah barang yang “hidup”. Sama seperti warna mereka berubah karena gesekan, bentuk mereka juga berubah karena gerakan pemakainya. Jeans meregang di suatu tempat, mereka mengembangkan kerutan di tempat lain – ini benar-benar alami dan normal untuk jeans. Jika lutut yang sedikit melar terlihat terlalu tidak enak untuk Anda, cukup balikkan jeans ke luar. Semprotkan air sedikit dan setrika dengan hati-hati di area tersebut. Ini tidak akan memakan waktu lebih dari 2-3 menit. Anda dapat mengulangi proses ini sesuai kebutuhan kapan saja.

• Lipatan, kain berkerut pada jeans dan jaket denim

Perlu diingat bahwa karakteristik ini biasanya melekat pada jeans atau jaket denim yang telah menjalani

 proses penyusutan langsung di pabrik (satu cuci). Seringkali, jeans dicuci dan dikeringkan pada suhu tinggi untuk menghindari penyusutan lebih lanjut. Banyak orang lebih memilih jenis produk ini ketika mereka yakin bahwa jeans atau jaket yang mereka terima tidak perlu dicuci lagi, takut bahwa mereka akan menyusut.

Kadang-kadang, berbagai lipatan atau kusut mungkin muncul pada denim satu cuci sebagai hasil dari mencuci dan mengeringkan dalam kondisi industri. Ya, ketika Anda pertama kali membuka barang dan belum mengenal denim satu cuci, “kerutan” ini mungkin sedikit membingungkan Anda. Sebenarnya, ini jauh lebih sederhana dari yang terlihat. Entah itu, seperti yang disebutkan sebelumnya, setrika dengan lembut barang dari dalam ke luar (menghindari menekan jahitan), atau cukup mulai mengenakan barang “apa adanya”. Semua ketidakrataan akan merata dengan cukup cepat, dan denim akan meregang di beberapa area. Barang akan terlihat hebat, dan Anda bahkan tidak akan mengingat penampilan awal jeans atau jaket tersebut.

•  Bibit di denim

Denim yang dianyam di alat tenun pendayung akan dalam beberapa hal tidak rata, bahkan jika bukan “denim berbibit” yang umum. Benang yang dipintal di mesin penenun cincin juga dapat memiliki ketebalan yang bervariasi sepanjang panjangnya. Produsen seringkali dengan sengaja menggunakan kapas dengan serat ultra pendek yang belum disisir, yang juga membuat denim sengaja kasar. Kadang-kadang, jika Anda memeriksa sisi wajah denim dengan sangat hati-hati, Anda mungkin menemukan jahitan terlewat, bibit, dan kejadian lainnya, yang juga bukanlah cacat. Ini adalah ciri-ciri dari produksi denim jenis purba ini.

Dengan demikian, kita melihat bahwa jeans Jepang klasik adalah produk benar-benar handmade. Beberapa fitur jeans seperti itu, yang mungkin dianggap cacat oleh orang yang tidak berpengetahuan, sebenarnya sama sekali bukan cacat. Seringkali, mereka hanya menunjukkan keunikan dari proses produksi tertentu, dan terkadang produsen dengan sengaja menekankan detail-detail seperti itu, bertujuan untuk memberikan jeans mereka tampilan “handmade”, “vintage”. Pada dasarnya, pesona dari produk otentik sebagian besar terdiri dari banyak detail kecil, beberapa di antaranya mungkin tidak selalu jelas bagi pemakai jeans, dan beberapa bahkan mungkin terlihat seperti kecerobohan. Setelah semua, banyak dari kita menyukai denim yang tidak rata, kasar, dan berbibit yang menyerupai material buatan tangan. Semua detail lainnya, baik itu pelekukan kaki, jahitan yang sengaja tidak rata, dll., pada dasarnya sama – merupakan indikasi bahwa barang ini dibuat oleh orang dan untuk orang.

目前，谈到真正高质量的传统牛仔布，反映了过去传统的程度时，首先人们会想到日本牛仔裤。如果你第一次将这样的物品拿在手里，你肯定会被这些物品特有的“手工制作”质量、细节的精致和牛仔布的不均匀质地所震撼。与此同时，这样的牛仔裤往往远非完美的、对称的等等。制造商经常有意强调日本产品的特点“侘寂”，最大的美不在于形式的绝对完美，而在于一定程度上故意允许的“缺陷”，这些缺陷相当微不足道，并且绝不会影响产品本身的质量。然而，正是这种“润饰”，赋予了整体“画面”完整的印象，经典牛仔裤充当画布，而一些被人们认为是瑕疵的元素实际上给了我们这样的感觉，这些牛仔裤是由有生命的人制作的，而不是无灵魂的机器。今天，我们将尝试检查其中一些元素，也许制造商制作这样的牛仔裤的方法对您来说会更清晰。

• 裤腿扭曲

经常发生这样的情况，一个人买了一条优质的牛仔裤，有时花了相当多的钱，缩水后穿上了。他看到了什么？其中一条裤腿（通常是左腿，当斜纹方向向右时）突然扭曲得很厉害，以至于边缘几乎紧贴着纵横线。事实上，没有必要绝望。这不是一个缺陷或瑕疵。这是经典原始牛仔布的一个可以接受的，有时甚至是故意制作的特征。关键在于棉纤维在浸泡和干燥时不可避免地会收缩，因此，线会不可避免地使牛仔布扭曲，从而缝制牛仔裤的。在某些情况下，制造商甚至会通过最初以这种方式切割裤腿来进一步强调这一特点，使裤腿的扭曲更加明显。裤腿扭曲不影响牛仔裤本身的质量或使用的便利性，您将在几个小时内几乎不会注意到它。

顺便说一句，如果您是裤腿扭曲的坚决反对者，那么只需尝试选择缩水最小的牛仔裤，因此，裤腿扭曲最小。首先要注意的是由桑福瑞兹牛仔布制成的牛仔裤。如果您不在非常高的温度下洗这些牛仔裤，那么裤腿扭曲很可能表现得最小或完全不存在。

• 裤腿长度略有差异

是的，这样的细微差别也可能存在。同样，这并不是生产上的任何疏忽。通常，这与牛仔裤本身的收缩直接相关。无论您是自己缩小牛仔裤，还是购买了一个经过工厂缩水（一次洗涤）的版本的牛仔裤，这样的细微差别都可能会引人注目。如果您穿着卷边牛仔裤，这可能特别明显。如果您穿上缩水的牛仔裤，扣上扣子，看着您的卷边，您可能会注意到一条腿的卷边可能略短于另一条（字面上相差5mm）。这是完全正常的情况，这一事实加剧了这一事实，即通常情况下，人体并不完全对称。一条腿（通常是右腿）可能比另一条稍长。因此，在穿着卷边牛仔裤的情况下，这也可能会引人注目。解决问题的方法非常简单 – 只需愉快地穿着牛仔裤，您很快就会忘记这个“问题”。

• 牛仔裤膝盖拉长（松懈）

许多人开始穿正宗的经典牛仔裤时，会注意到面料逐渐开始拉伸。这在膝盖区域特别明显。这并不是因为传统意义上的牛仔裤总是由100%的棉制成。众所周知，棉花在浸泡和干燥时会收缩，并且随着穿着而拉伸。由于较短纤维制成的棉线拉伸较小，而由较长纤维制成的棉线则拉伸较大。然而，任何经典牛仔裤都会在有张力的区域拉伸。从本质上讲，它们应该是这样的。它们在某个地方拉伸，它们在其他地方起皱 – 这对于牛仔裤来说是绝对自然和正常的。如果您认为略微拉长的膝盖看起来太不好看，只需将牛仔裤里外翻。轻轻喷水，然后小心熨烫这些区域。这不会超过2-3分钟。您可以根据需要随时重复此过程。

• 牛仔裤和牛仔夹克上的褶皱，皱褶面料

值得一提的是，这些特征通常固有于直接在工厂进行缩水（一次洗涤）的牛仔裤或牛仔夹克中。通常，为了避免进一步的收缩，牛仔裤会以高温洗涤和干燥。许多人在确信他们收到的牛仔裤或夹克不需要再次洗涤时更喜欢这种类型的产品，因为他们担心它们会收缩。

有时，由于在工业条件下的洗涤和干燥，一次洗涤的牛仔布上可能会出现各种褶皱或皱褶。是的，当您第一次打开物品并且还没有接触过一次洗涤的牛仔布时，这些“皱纹”可能会让您感到困惑。事实上，它比看起来简单得多。要么，如前所述，从里到外轻轻熨烫物品（避免对接缝施加压力），要么简单地穿着物品“原样”。所有的不规则都会相当快地平滑，并且牛仔布会在某些区域拉伸。物品会看起来很棒，您甚至不会记得最初这些牛仔裤或夹克的外观。

•  牛仔布上的凹点

通过梭织机编织的牛仔布在某种程度上会不均匀，即使它不是通常所说的“凹点牛仔布”。在环锭纺纱机上纺制的线在整个长度上也可能厚薄不一。制造商经常故意使用未梳理的超短纤维棉，这也使牛仔布故意粗糙。偶尔，如果您非常仔细地检查牛仔布的正面，您可能会发现跳线、凹点和其他类似的情况，这些也不是缺陷。这些恰恰是这种过时类型的牛仔布生产的特征。

因此，我们看到经典的日本牛仔裤是绝对的手工产品。一些人可能认为是缺陷的这样的牛仔裤特征实际上根本不是缺陷。通常，它们只是指出了特定生产过程的特殊之处，有时制造商会有意强调这样的细节，目的是赋予他们的牛仔裤一种“手工制作”，“复古”的外观。从本质上讲，真正产品的魅力在很大程度上取决于许多小细节，其中一些可能并不总是显而易见，甚至有些可能显得粗心。毕竟，我们中的许多人都喜欢看起来像手工制作的不均匀、坚固的、凹点的牛仔布。所有其他的细节，无论是裤腿扭曲、故意不均匀的缝合等等，本质上都是一样的 – 表明这个物品是由人们制作的，为了人们。

Currently, when it comes to truly high-quality traditional denim that reflects the traditions of the past to the greatest extent, Japanese jeans specifically come to mind in the first place. If you take such an item in your hands for the first time in your life, you will surely be struck by the special “handmade” quality of such items, the elaborateness of the details, and the uneven texture of the denim. At the same time, such jeans are far from always being perfectly even, symmetrical, etc. Often, manufacturers deliberately try to emphasize the characteristic “wabi-sabi” of Japanese products, where the greatest beauty lies not in the absolute perfection of forms but in a certain degree of intentionally permissible “defects,” which are quite insignificant and in no way affect the quality of the product itself. However, it is precisely this “finishing touch” that gives the overall impression of completeness to the whole “picture,” where classic jeans serve as the canvas, and some elements perceived by people as defects actually give us the feeling that these jeans are made by living people, not soulless machines. Today, we will try to examine some of these elements, and perhaps the manufacturer’s approach to making such jeans will become clearer to you.

• Leg Twist

It often happens that a person buys an excellent pair of jeans, sometimes spending a considerable amount of money, shrinks them, and puts them on. And what does he see? One of the legs (most often the left one, when the twill direction is to the right) suddenly turns out to be heavily twisted, so much so that the selvedge edge is almost next to the inseam. In fact, there is no need to despair. This is not a defect or flaw. This is an acceptable, and sometimes intentionally made, element characteristic of classic raw denim. The point is that cotton fibers will inevitably shrink when soaked and dried, and thus, the threads will inevitably twist the denim itself, from which the jeans are sewn, in the direction of the twill. In some cases, manufacturers seek to emphasize this feature even more by initially cutting the legs in such a way that the leg twist is more pronounced. Leg twist does not affect the quality of the jeans themselves or their ease of use, and you will stop noticing it literally within a few hours.

By the way, if you are a staunch opponent of leg twist, then simply try to choose jeans with minimal shrinkage, and therefore, minimal twisting of the leg. First of all, pay attention to jeans made of sanforized denim. If you do not wash such jeans at a very hot temperature, then most likely the leg twist will be minimally expressed or absent altogether.

• Slight difference in pant leg length

Yes, such a nuance is also possible. Again, this is not about any negligence in production. More often than not, it is directly related to the shrinking of the jeans themselves. Regardless of whether you shrink the jeans yourself or if you bought a version of jeans with factory shrinkage (one wash), such a nuance can be noticeable. This can be particularly evident if you wear jeans with rolled-up cuffs. If you put on shrunk jeans, button them up, and look at your rolled-up cuffs, you may notice that the cuff on one leg may be slightly shorter than the other (literally by 5mm). This is a completely normal situation, which is exacerbated by the fact that, as a rule, the human body is not entirely symmetrical. One leg (often the right one) may be slightly longer than the other. Therefore, in the case of jeans with rolled-up cuffs, this can also be noticeable. The solution to the problem is very simple – just wear your jeans with pleasure, and you will quickly forget about this “issue.”

• Stretched (baggy) knees on jeans

Many people, upon starting to wear authentic classic jeans, begin to notice that the fabric gradually starts to stretch. This can be particularly noticeable in the knee area. The reason for this is not that jeans (in the traditional sense) are always made of 100% cotton. As is known, cotton shrinks when soaked and dried and stretches as it is worn. Threads made from cotton with shorter fibers stretch less, while threads made from cotton with longer fibers stretch more. However, any classic jeans will stretch in areas where there is tension. In essence, they should be like this. They are, in a sense, a “living” item. Just as their color changes due to friction, their shape also changes due to the movement of the wearer. Jeans stretch somewhere, they develop wrinkles somewhere else – this is absolutely natural and normal for jeans. If slightly stretched knees seem too unsightly to you, simply turn the jeans inside out. Lightly spray water and carefully iron these areas. This will take no more than 2-3 minutes. You can repeat this process as needed at any time.

• The folds, creased fabric on jeans and denim jackets

It is worth mentioning that these characteristics are typically inherent in jeans or denim jackets that have undergone the shrinking process directly at the factories (one wash). Often, jeans are washed and dried at high temperatures to avoid any further shrinkage. Many people prefer this type of product when they are confident that the jeans or jackets they receive do not need to be washed again, fearing that they will shrink.
Sometimes, various folds or creases may appear on one wash denim as a result of washing and drying in industrial conditions. Yes, when you first unpack the item and have not yet been acquainted with one wash denim, these “wrinkles” may puzzle you a bit. In fact, it’s much simpler than it seems. Either, as mentioned earlier, gently iron the item from the inside out (avoiding applying pressure on the seams), or simply start wearing the item “as is.” All the irregularities will smooth out fairly quickly, and the denim will stretch in some areas. The item will look great, and you won’t even remember the initial appearance of such jeans or jackets.

•  Slubs in denim

Denim woven on shuttle looms will to some extent be uneven, even if it’s not what’s commonly referred to as “slubby denim.” Thread spun on ring spinning machines may also have varying thicknesses throughout its length. Manufacturers often intentionally use cotton with uncombed ultra-short fibers, which also make the denim intentionally coarse. Occasionally, if you examine the face side of the denim very carefully, you may find skipped stitches, slubs, and other such occurrences, which also are not defects. These are precisely the characteristics of such an archaic type of denim production.

Thus, we see that classic Japanese jeans are an absolute handmade product. Some features of such jeans, which an unknowledgeable person might consider defects, are not actually defects at all. Often, they simply indicate the peculiarities of a particular production process, and sometimes manufacturers intentionally emphasize such details, aiming to give their jeans a “handmade,” “vintage” look. In essence, the charm of an authentic product largely consists of many small details, some of which may not always be obvious to the jeans wearer, and some may even appear as carelessness. After all, many of us love uneven, rugged, slubby denim that resembles material made by hand. All the other details, whether it’s leg twist, intentionally uneven stitching, etc., are essentially the same – an indication that this item was made by people and for people.

Currently, when it comes to truly high-quality traditional denim that reflects the traditions of the past to the greatest extent, Japanese jeans specifically come to mind in the first place. If you take such an item in your hands for the first time in your life, you will surely be struck by the special “handmade” quality of such items, the elaborateness of the details, and the uneven texture of the denim. At the same time, such jeans are far from always being perfectly even, symmetrical, etc. Often, manufacturers deliberately try to emphasize the characteristic “wabi-sabi” of Japanese products, where the greatest beauty lies not in the absolute perfection of forms but in a certain degree of intentionally permissible “defects,” which are quite insignificant and in no way affect the quality of the product itself. However, it is precisely this “finishing touch” that gives the overall impression of completeness to the whole “picture,” where classic jeans serve as the canvas, and some elements perceived by people as defects actually give us the feeling that these jeans are made by living people, not soulless machines. Today, we will try to examine some of these elements, and perhaps the manufacturer’s approach to making such jeans will become clearer to you.

• Leg Twist

It often happens that a person buys an excellent pair of jeans, sometimes spending a considerable amount of money, shrinks them, and puts them on. And what does he see? One of the legs (most often the left one, when the twill direction is to the right) suddenly turns out to be heavily twisted, so much so that the selvedge edge is almost next to the inseam. In fact, there is no need to despair. This is not a defect or flaw. This is an acceptable, and sometimes intentionally made, element characteristic of classic raw denim. The point is that cotton fibers will inevitably shrink when soaked and dried, and thus, the threads will inevitably twist the denim itself, from which the jeans are sewn, in the direction of the twill. In some cases, manufacturers seek to emphasize this feature even more by initially cutting the legs in such a way that the leg twist is more pronounced. Leg twist does not affect the quality of the jeans themselves or their ease of use, and you will stop noticing it literally within a few hours.

By the way, if you are a staunch opponent of leg twist, then simply try to choose jeans with minimal shrinkage, and therefore, minimal twisting of the leg. First of all, pay attention to jeans made of sanforized denim. If you do not wash such jeans at a very hot temperature, then most likely the leg twist will be minimally expressed or absent altogether.

• Slight difference in pant leg length

Yes, such a nuance is also possible. Again, this is not about any negligence in production. More often than not, it is directly related to the shrinking of the jeans themselves. Regardless of whether you shrink the jeans yourself or if you bought a version of jeans with factory shrinkage (one wash), such a nuance can be noticeable. This can be particularly evident if you wear jeans with rolled-up cuffs. If you put on shrunk jeans, button them up, and look at your rolled-up cuffs, you may notice that the cuff on one leg may be slightly shorter than the other (literally by 5mm). This is a completely normal situation, which is exacerbated by the fact that, as a rule, the human body is not entirely symmetrical. One leg (often the right one) may be slightly longer than the other. Therefore, in the case of jeans with rolled-up cuffs, this can also be noticeable. The solution to the problem is very simple – just wear your jeans with pleasure, and you will quickly forget about this “issue.”

• Stretched (baggy) knees on jeans

Many people, upon starting to wear authentic classic jeans, begin to notice that the fabric gradually starts to stretch. This can be particularly noticeable in the knee area. The reason for this is not that jeans (in the traditional sense) are always made of 100% cotton. As is known, cotton shrinks when soaked and dried and stretches as it is worn. Threads made from cotton with shorter fibers stretch less, while threads made from cotton with longer fibers stretch more. However, any classic jeans will stretch in areas where there is tension. In essence, they should be like this. They are, in a sense, a “living” item. Just as their color changes due to friction, their shape also changes due to the movement of the wearer. Jeans stretch somewhere, they develop wrinkles somewhere else – this is absolutely natural and normal for jeans. If slightly stretched knees seem too unsightly to you, simply turn the jeans inside out. Lightly spray water and carefully iron these areas. This will take no more than 2-3 minutes. You can repeat this process as needed at any time.

• The folds, creased fabric on jeans and denim jackets

It is worth mentioning that these characteristics are typically inherent in jeans or denim jackets that have undergone the shrinking process directly at the factories (one wash). Often, jeans are washed and dried at high temperatures to avoid any further shrinkage. Many people prefer this type of product when they are confident that the jeans or jackets they receive do not need to be washed again, fearing that they will shrink.
Sometimes, various folds or creases may appear on one wash denim as a result of washing and drying in industrial conditions. Yes, when you first unpack the item and have not yet been acquainted with one wash denim, these “wrinkles” may puzzle you a bit. In fact, it’s much simpler than it seems. Either, as mentioned earlier, gently iron the item from the inside out (avoiding applying pressure on the seams), or simply start wearing the item “as is.” All the irregularities will smooth out fairly quickly, and the denim will stretch in some areas. The item will look great, and you won’t even remember the initial appearance of such jeans or jackets.

•  Slubs in denim

Denim woven on shuttle looms will to some extent be uneven, even if it’s not what’s commonly referred to as “slubby denim.” Thread spun on ring spinning machines may also have varying thicknesses throughout its length. Manufacturers often intentionally use cotton with uncombed ultra-short fibers, which also make the denim intentionally coarse. Occasionally, if you examine the face side of the denim very carefully, you may find skipped stitches, slubs, and other such occurrences, which also are not defects. These are precisely the characteristics of such an archaic type of denim production.

Thus, we see that classic Japanese jeans are an absolute handmade product. Some features of such jeans, which an unknowledgeable person might consider defects, are not actually defects at all. Often, they simply indicate the peculiarities of a particular production process, and sometimes manufacturers intentionally emphasize such details, aiming to give their jeans a “handmade,” “vintage” look. In essence, the charm of an authentic product largely consists of many small details, some of which may not always be obvious to the jeans wearer, and some may even appear as carelessness. After all, many of us love uneven, rugged, slubby denim that resembles material made by hand. All the other details, whether it’s leg twist, intentionally uneven stitching, etc., are essentially the same – an indication that this item was made by people and for people.

Currently, when it comes to truly high-quality traditional denim that reflects the traditions of the past to the greatest extent, Japanese jeans specifically come to mind in the first place. If you take such an item in your hands for the first time in your life, you will surely be struck by the special “handmade” quality of such items, the elaborateness of the details, and the uneven texture of the denim. At the same time, such jeans are far from always being perfectly even, symmetrical, etc. Often, manufacturers deliberately try to emphasize the characteristic “wabi-sabi” of Japanese products, where the greatest beauty lies not in the absolute perfection of forms but in a certain degree of intentionally permissible “defects,” which are quite insignificant and in no way affect the quality of the product itself. However, it is precisely this “finishing touch” that gives the overall impression of completeness to the whole “picture,” where classic jeans serve as the canvas, and some elements perceived by people as defects actually give us the feeling that these jeans are made by living people, not soulless machines. Today, we will try to examine some of these elements, and perhaps the manufacturer’s approach to making such jeans will become clearer to you.

• Leg Twist

It often happens that a person buys an excellent pair of jeans, sometimes spending a considerable amount of money, shrinks them, and puts them on. And what does he see? One of the legs (most often the left one, when the twill direction is to the right) suddenly turns out to be heavily twisted, so much so that the selvedge edge is almost next to the inseam. In fact, there is no need to despair. This is not a defect or flaw. This is an acceptable, and sometimes intentionally made, element characteristic of classic raw denim. The point is that cotton fibers will inevitably shrink when soaked and dried, and thus, the threads will inevitably twist the denim itself, from which the jeans are sewn, in the direction of the twill. In some cases, manufacturers seek to emphasize this feature even more by initially cutting the legs in such a way that the leg twist is more pronounced. Leg twist does not affect the quality of the jeans themselves or their ease of use, and you will stop noticing it literally within a few hours.

By the way, if you are a staunch opponent of leg twist, then simply try to choose jeans with minimal shrinkage, and therefore, minimal twisting of the leg. First of all, pay attention to jeans made of sanforized denim. If you do not wash such jeans at a very hot temperature, then most likely the leg twist will be minimally expressed or absent altogether.

• Slight difference in pant leg length

Yes, such a nuance is also possible. Again, this is not about any negligence in production. More often than not, it is directly related to the shrinking of the jeans themselves. Regardless of whether you shrink the jeans yourself or if you bought a version of jeans with factory shrinkage (one wash), such a nuance can be noticeable. This can be particularly evident if you wear jeans with rolled-up cuffs. If you put on shrunk jeans, button them up, and look at your rolled-up cuffs, you may notice that the cuff on one leg may be slightly shorter than the other (literally by 5mm). This is a completely normal situation, which is exacerbated by the fact that, as a rule, the human body is not entirely symmetrical. One leg (often the right one) may be slightly longer than the other. Therefore, in the case of jeans with rolled-up cuffs, this can also be noticeable. The solution to the problem is very simple – just wear your jeans with pleasure, and you will quickly forget about this “issue.”

• Stretched (baggy) knees on jeans

Many people, upon starting to wear authentic classic jeans, begin to notice that the fabric gradually starts to stretch. This can be particularly noticeable in the knee area. The reason for this is not that jeans (in the traditional sense) are always made of 100% cotton. As is known, cotton shrinks when soaked and dried and stretches as it is worn. Threads made from cotton with shorter fibers stretch less, while threads made from cotton with longer fibers stretch more. However, any classic jeans will stretch in areas where there is tension. In essence, they should be like this. They are, in a sense, a “living” item. Just as their color changes due to friction, their shape also changes due to the movement of the wearer. Jeans stretch somewhere, they develop wrinkles somewhere else – this is absolutely natural and normal for jeans. If slightly stretched knees seem too unsightly to you, simply turn the jeans inside out. Lightly spray water and carefully iron these areas. This will take no more than 2-3 minutes. You can repeat this process as needed at any time.

• The folds, creased fabric on jeans and denim jackets

It is worth mentioning that these characteristics are typically inherent in jeans or denim jackets that have undergone the shrinking process directly at the factories (one wash). Often, jeans are washed and dried at high temperatures to avoid any further shrinkage. Many people prefer this type of product when they are confident that the jeans or jackets they receive do not need to be washed again, fearing that they will shrink.
Sometimes, various folds or creases may appear on one wash denim as a result of washing and drying in industrial conditions. Yes, when you first unpack the item and have not yet been acquainted with one wash denim, these “wrinkles” may puzzle you a bit. In fact, it’s much simpler than it seems. Either, as mentioned earlier, gently iron the item from the inside out (avoiding applying pressure on the seams), or simply start wearing the item “as is.” All the irregularities will smooth out fairly quickly, and the denim will stretch in some areas. The item will look great, and you won’t even remember the initial appearance of such jeans or jackets.

•  Slubs in denim

Denim woven on shuttle looms will to some extent be uneven, even if it’s not what’s commonly referred to as “slubby denim.” Thread spun on ring spinning machines may also have varying thicknesses throughout its length. Manufacturers often intentionally use cotton with uncombed ultra-short fibers, which also make the denim intentionally coarse. Occasionally, if you examine the face side of the denim very carefully, you may find skipped stitches, slubs, and other such occurrences, which also are not defects. These are precisely the characteristics of such an archaic type of denim production.

Thus, we see that classic Japanese jeans are an absolute handmade product. Some features of such jeans, which an unknowledgeable person might consider defects, are not actually defects at all. Often, they simply indicate the peculiarities of a particular production process, and sometimes manufacturers intentionally emphasize such details, aiming to give their jeans a “handmade,” “vintage” look. In essence, the charm of an authentic product largely consists of many small details, some of which may not always be obvious to the jeans wearer, and some may even appear as carelessness. After all, many of us love uneven, rugged, slubby denim that resembles material made by hand. All the other details, whether it’s leg twist, intentionally uneven stitching, etc., are essentially the same – an indication that this item was made by people and for people.

Currently, when it comes to truly high-quality traditional denim that reflects the traditions of the past to the greatest extent, Japanese jeans specifically come to mind in the first place. If you take such an item in your hands for the first time in your life, you will surely be struck by the special “handmade” quality of such items, the elaborateness of the details, and the uneven texture of the denim. At the same time, such jeans are far from always being perfectly even, symmetrical, etc. Often, manufacturers deliberately try to emphasize the characteristic “wabi-sabi” of Japanese products, where the greatest beauty lies not in the absolute perfection of forms but in a certain degree of intentionally permissible “defects,” which are quite insignificant and in no way affect the quality of the product itself. However, it is precisely this “finishing touch” that gives the overall impression of completeness to the whole “picture,” where classic jeans serve as the canvas, and some elements perceived by people as defects actually give us the feeling that these jeans are made by living people, not soulless machines. Today, we will try to examine some of these elements, and perhaps the manufacturer’s approach to making such jeans will become clearer to you.

• Leg Twist

It often happens that a person buys an excellent pair of jeans, sometimes spending a considerable amount of money, shrinks them, and puts them on. And what does he see? One of the legs (most often the left one, when the twill direction is to the right) suddenly turns out to be heavily twisted, so much so that the selvedge edge is almost next to the inseam. In fact, there is no need to despair. This is not a defect or flaw. This is an acceptable, and sometimes intentionally made, element characteristic of classic raw denim. The point is that cotton fibers will inevitably shrink when soaked and dried, and thus, the threads will inevitably twist the denim itself, from which the jeans are sewn, in the direction of the twill. In some cases, manufacturers seek to emphasize this feature even more by initially cutting the legs in such a way that the leg twist is more pronounced. Leg twist does not affect the quality of the jeans themselves or their ease of use, and you will stop noticing it literally within a few hours.

By the way, if you are a staunch opponent of leg twist, then simply try to choose jeans with minimal shrinkage, and therefore, minimal twisting of the leg. First of all, pay attention to jeans made of sanforized denim. If you do not wash such jeans at a very hot temperature, then most likely the leg twist will be minimally expressed or absent altogether.

• Slight difference in pant leg length

Yes, such a nuance is also possible. Again, this is not about any negligence in production. More often than not, it is directly related to the shrinking of the jeans themselves. Regardless of whether you shrink the jeans yourself or if you bought a version of jeans with factory shrinkage (one wash), such a nuance can be noticeable. This can be particularly evident if you wear jeans with rolled-up cuffs. If you put on shrunk jeans, button them up, and look at your rolled-up cuffs, you may notice that the cuff on one leg may be slightly shorter than the other (literally by 5mm). This is a completely normal situation, which is exacerbated by the fact that, as a rule, the human body is not entirely symmetrical. One leg (often the right one) may be slightly longer than the other. Therefore, in the case of jeans with rolled-up cuffs, this can also be noticeable. The solution to the problem is very simple – just wear your jeans with pleasure, and you will quickly forget about this “issue.”

• Stretched (baggy) knees on jeans

Many people, upon starting to wear authentic classic jeans, begin to notice that the fabric gradually starts to stretch. This can be particularly noticeable in the knee area. The reason for this is not that jeans (in the traditional sense) are always made of 100% cotton. As is known, cotton shrinks when soaked and dried and stretches as it is worn. Threads made from cotton with shorter fibers stretch less, while threads made from cotton with longer fibers stretch more. However, any classic jeans will stretch in areas where there is tension. In essence, they should be like this. They are, in a sense, a “living” item. Just as their color changes due to friction, their shape also changes due to the movement of the wearer. Jeans stretch somewhere, they develop wrinkles somewhere else – this is absolutely natural and normal for jeans. If slightly stretched knees seem too unsightly to you, simply turn the jeans inside out. Lightly spray water and carefully iron these areas. This will take no more than 2-3 minutes. You can repeat this process as needed at any time.

• The folds, creased fabric on jeans and denim jackets

It is worth mentioning that these characteristics are typically inherent in jeans or denim jackets that have undergone the shrinking process directly at the factories (one wash). Often, jeans are washed and dried at high temperatures to avoid any further shrinkage. Many people prefer this type of product when they are confident that the jeans or jackets they receive do not need to be washed again, fearing that they will shrink.
Sometimes, various folds or creases may appear on one wash denim as a result of washing and drying in industrial conditions. Yes, when you first unpack the item and have not yet been acquainted with one wash denim, these “wrinkles” may puzzle you a bit. In fact, it’s much simpler than it seems. Either, as mentioned earlier, gently iron the item from the inside out (avoiding applying pressure on the seams), or simply start wearing the item “as is.” All the irregularities will smooth out fairly quickly, and the denim will stretch in some areas. The item will look great, and you won’t even remember the initial appearance of such jeans or jackets.

•  Slubs in denim

Denim woven on shuttle looms will to some extent be uneven, even if it’s not what’s commonly referred to as “slubby denim.” Thread spun on ring spinning machines may also have varying thicknesses throughout its length. Manufacturers often intentionally use cotton with uncombed ultra-short fibers, which also make the denim intentionally coarse. Occasionally, if you examine the face side of the denim very carefully, you may find skipped stitches, slubs, and other such occurrences, which also are not defects. These are precisely the characteristics of such an archaic type of denim production.

Thus, we see that classic Japanese jeans are an absolute handmade product. Some features of such jeans, which an unknowledgeable person might consider defects, are not actually defects at all. Often, they simply indicate the peculiarities of a particular production process, and sometimes manufacturers intentionally emphasize such details, aiming to give their jeans a “handmade,” “vintage” look. In essence, the charm of an authentic product largely consists of many small details, some of which may not always be obvious to the jeans wearer, and some may even appear as carelessness. After all, many of us love uneven, rugged, slubby denim that resembles material made by hand. All the other details, whether it’s leg twist, intentionally uneven stitching, etc., are essentially the same – an indication that this item was made by people and for people.

Currently, when it comes to truly high-quality traditional denim that reflects the traditions of the past to the greatest extent, Japanese jeans specifically come to mind in the first place. If you take such an item in your hands for the first time in your life, you will surely be struck by the special “handmade” quality of such items, the elaborateness of the details, and the uneven texture of the denim. At the same time, such jeans are far from always being perfectly even, symmetrical, etc. Often, manufacturers deliberately try to emphasize the characteristic “wabi-sabi” of Japanese products, where the greatest beauty lies not in the absolute perfection of forms but in a certain degree of intentionally permissible “defects,” which are quite insignificant and in no way affect the quality of the product itself. However, it is precisely this “finishing touch” that gives the overall impression of completeness to the whole “picture,” where classic jeans serve as the canvas, and some elements perceived by people as defects actually give us the feeling that these jeans are made by living people, not soulless machines. Today, we will try to examine some of these elements, and perhaps the manufacturer’s approach to making such jeans will become clearer to you.

• Leg Twist

It often happens that a person buys an excellent pair of jeans, sometimes spending a considerable amount of money, shrinks them, and puts them on. And what does he see? One of the legs (most often the left one, when the twill direction is to the right) suddenly turns out to be heavily twisted, so much so that the selvedge edge is almost next to the inseam. In fact, there is no need to despair. This is not a defect or flaw. This is an acceptable, and sometimes intentionally made, element characteristic of classic raw denim. The point is that cotton fibers will inevitably shrink when soaked and dried, and thus, the threads will inevitably twist the denim itself, from which the jeans are sewn, in the direction of the twill. In some cases, manufacturers seek to emphasize this feature even more by initially cutting the legs in such a way that the leg twist is more pronounced. Leg twist does not affect the quality of the jeans themselves or their ease of use, and you will stop noticing it literally within a few hours.

By the way, if you are a staunch opponent of leg twist, then simply try to choose jeans with minimal shrinkage, and therefore, minimal twisting of the leg. First of all, pay attention to jeans made of sanforized denim. If you do not wash such jeans at a very hot temperature, then most likely the leg twist will be minimally expressed or absent altogether.

• Slight difference in pant leg length

Yes, such a nuance is also possible. Again, this is not about any negligence in production. More often than not, it is directly related to the shrinking of the jeans themselves. Regardless of whether you shrink the jeans yourself or if you bought a version of jeans with factory shrinkage (one wash), such a nuance can be noticeable. This can be particularly evident if you wear jeans with rolled-up cuffs. If you put on shrunk jeans, button them up, and look at your rolled-up cuffs, you may notice that the cuff on one leg may be slightly shorter than the other (literally by 5mm). This is a completely normal situation, which is exacerbated by the fact that, as a rule, the human body is not entirely symmetrical. One leg (often the right one) may be slightly longer than the other. Therefore, in the case of jeans with rolled-up cuffs, this can also be noticeable. The solution to the problem is very simple – just wear your jeans with pleasure, and you will quickly forget about this “issue.”

• Stretched (baggy) knees on jeans

Many people, upon starting to wear authentic classic jeans, begin to notice that the fabric gradually starts to stretch. This can be particularly noticeable in the knee area. The reason for this is not that jeans (in the traditional sense) are always made of 100% cotton. As is known, cotton shrinks when soaked and dried and stretches as it is worn. Threads made from cotton with shorter fibers stretch less, while threads made from cotton with longer fibers stretch more. However, any classic jeans will stretch in areas where there is tension. In essence, they should be like this. They are, in a sense, a “living” item. Just as their color changes due to friction, their shape also changes due to the movement of the wearer. Jeans stretch somewhere, they develop wrinkles somewhere else – this is absolutely natural and normal for jeans. If slightly stretched knees seem too unsightly to you, simply turn the jeans inside out. Lightly spray water and carefully iron these areas. This will take no more than 2-3 minutes. You can repeat this process as needed at any time.

• The folds, creased fabric on jeans and denim jackets

It is worth mentioning that these characteristics are typically inherent in jeans or denim jackets that have undergone the shrinking process directly at the factories (one wash). Often, jeans are washed and dried at high temperatures to avoid any further shrinkage. Many people prefer this type of product when they are confident that the jeans or jackets they receive do not need to be washed again, fearing that they will shrink.
Sometimes, various folds or creases may appear on one wash denim as a result of washing and drying in industrial conditions. Yes, when you first unpack the item and have not yet been acquainted with one wash denim, these “wrinkles” may puzzle you a bit. In fact, it’s much simpler than it seems. Either, as mentioned earlier, gently iron the item from the inside out (avoiding applying pressure on the seams), or simply start wearing the item “as is.” All the irregularities will smooth out fairly quickly, and the denim will stretch in some areas. The item will look great, and you won’t even remember the initial appearance of such jeans or jackets.

•  Slubs in denim

Denim woven on shuttle looms will to some extent be uneven, even if it’s not what’s commonly referred to as “slubby denim.” Thread spun on ring spinning machines may also have varying thicknesses throughout its length. Manufacturers often intentionally use cotton with uncombed ultra-short fibers, which also make the denim intentionally coarse. Occasionally, if you examine the face side of the denim very carefully, you may find skipped stitches, slubs, and other such occurrences, which also are not defects. These are precisely the characteristics of such an archaic type of denim production.

Thus, we see that classic Japanese jeans are an absolute handmade product. Some features of such jeans, which an unknowledgeable person might consider defects, are not actually defects at all. Often, they simply indicate the peculiarities of a particular production process, and sometimes manufacturers intentionally emphasize such details, aiming to give their jeans a “handmade,” “vintage” look. In essence, the charm of an authentic product largely consists of many small details, some of which may not always be obvious to the jeans wearer, and some may even appear as carelessness. After all, many of us love uneven, rugged, slubby denim that resembles material made by hand. All the other details, whether it’s leg twist, intentionally uneven stitching, etc., are essentially the same – an indication that this item was made by people and for people.

В настоящее время, когда речь идет о действительно качественном традиционном дениме, отражающем традиции прошлого в наибольшей степени, в первую очередь приходят на ум японские джинсы. Если вы взяли такой предмет в руки впервые в своей жизни, вас наверняка поразит особое «рукотворное» качество таких изделий, тщательность деталей и неровная текстура денима. Тем не менее, такие джинсы далеки от того, чтобы быть идеально равномерными, симметричными и т. д. Часто производители намеренно стараются подчеркнуть характеристическое «wabi-sabi» японских продуктов, где наибольшая красота заключается не в абсолютной совершенности форм, а в определенной степени намеренно допустимых «дефектов», которые совершенно незначительны и никоим образом не влияют на качество самого продукта. Однако именно этот «финишный штрих» придает общее впечатление завершенности всей «картине», где классические джинсы служат холстом, а некоторые элементы, воспринимаемые людьми как дефекты, на самом деле заставляют нас чувствовать, что эти джинсы сделаны живыми людьми, а не бездушными машинами. Сегодня мы попробуем рассмотреть некоторые из этих элементов, и, возможно, подход производителя к созданию таких джинсов станет для вас яснее.

• Спиральность брючин

Часто бывает так, что человек покупает отличную пару джинс, иногда тратя значительную сумму денег, уменьшает их и надевает. И что он видит? Одна из брючин (чаще всего левая, когда направление твила идет направо) вдруг оказывается сильно спиральной, настолько, что край самого тканого края почти рядом с швом по внутреннему шву. На самом деле нет необходимости отчаиваться. Это не дефект или изъян. Это приемлемый, а иногда даже намеренно сделанный элемент, характерный для классического сырого денима. Дело в том, что хлопковые волокна неизбежно уменьшаются при пропитывании и сушке, и таким образом, нити неизбежно скручивают сам деним, из которого сшиты джинсы, в направлении твила. В некоторых случаях производители стремятся подчеркнуть эту особенность еще больше, начиная сначала обрезать брючины таким образом, чтобы спиральная форма была более выражена. Спиральность брючин не влияет на качество самих джинсов или их удобство в использовании, и вы перестанете замечать ее буквально через несколько часов.

Кстати, если вы ярый противник спиральности брючин, то просто попробуйте выбрать джинсы с минимальным усадкой, а следовательно, минимальным скручиванием брючин. Прежде всего, обратите внимание на джинсы из санфоризованного денима. Если вы не стираете такие джинсы при очень высокой температуре, то скорее всего, спиральность брючин будет минимальной или вообще отсутствует.

• Небольшая разница в длине брючины

Да, такая нюанс также возможен. Опять же, это не о каком-то пренебрежении в производстве. Гораздо чаще всего это непосредственно связано с усадкой самих джинсов. Независимо от того, усаживаете ли вы джинсы сами или покупаете версию джинсов с заводской усадкой (одна стирка), такой нюанс может быть заметен. Это может быть особенно явным, если вы носите джинсы с подвернутыми манжетами. Если вы надеваете усаженные джинсы, застегиваете их на пуговицу и смотрите на подвернутые манжеты, вы можете заметить, что манжета на одной ноге может быть немного короче, чем на другой (буквально на 5 мм). Это совершенно нормальная ситуация, которая усугубляется тем фактом, что, как правило, человеческое тело не является полностью симметричным. Одна нога (чаще правая) может быть немного длиннее другой. Поэтому в случае джинсов с подвернутыми манжетами это также может быть заметно. Решение проблемы очень простое – просто носите свои джинсы с удовольствием, и вы быстро забудете об этой “проблеме”.

• Растянутые (более свободные) колени на джинсах

Многие люди, начиная носить аутентичные классические джинсы, начинают замечать, что ткань постепенно начинает растягиваться. Это может быть особенно заметно в области коленей. Причина этого не в том, что джинсы (в традиционном смысле) всегда сделаны из 100% хлопка. Как известно, хлопок усаживается при пропитывании и сушке, а растягивается при носке. Нити из хлопка с более короткими волокнами растягиваются меньше, чем нити из хлопка с более длинными волокнами. Однако любые классические джинсы будут растягиваться в местах, где есть напряжение. По сути, они должны быть такими. Они, в некотором смысле, – “живой” предмет. Как их цвет меняется из-за трения, также меняется их форма из-за движения носителя. Джинсы растягиваются где-то, они образуют складки где-то еще – это абсолютно естественно и нормально для джинсов. Если вам кажется, что слегка растянутые колени слишком некрасивы, просто переверните джинсы наизнанку. Немного опрыскайте водой и осторожно погладьте эти области. Это займет не более 2-3 минут. Вы можете повторить этот процесс по мере необходимости в любое время.

• Складки, мятая ткань на джинсах и джинсовых куртках

Стоит отметить, что эти характеристики typischе также присущи джинсам или джинсовым курткам, которые прошли процесс усадки непосредственно на фабриках (одна стирка). Часто джинсы стирают и сушат при высоких температурах, чтобы избежать дальнейшего усадка. Многие предпочитают такой тип продукта, когда они уверены, что джинсы или куртки, которые они получают, не нужно будет стирать снова, опасаясь, что они усадятся.

Иногда на одностороннем дениме могут появиться различные складки или морщины в результате стирки и сушки в промышленных условиях. Да, когда вы первый раз распаковываете товар и еще не знакомы с односторонним денимом, эти “морщины” могут немного вас смутить. На самом деле это гораздо проще, чем кажется. Или, как уже упоминалось ранее, аккуратно погладьте предмет с изнанки (избегая надавливания на швы), или просто начните носить предмет “как есть”. Все неровности быстро выровняются, и деним растянется в некоторых местах. Вещь будет выглядеть отлично, и вы даже не вспомните о первоначальном внешнем виде таких джинсов или курток.

• Петли в дениме

Деним, тканный на платочных станках, в некоторой степени будет неравномерным, даже если это не то, что обычно называют “неровным денимом”. Нить, пряденная на кольцевых прядильных машинах, также может иметь переменную толщину на протяжении всей длины. Производители часто намеренно используют хлопок с нечесанными ультракороткими волокнами, которые также делают деним намеренно грубым. Иногда, если вы очень внимательно рассмотрите лицевую сторону денима, вы можете найти пропущенные стежки, петли и другие подобные явления, которые также не являются дефектами. Это именно характеристики такого архаического типа производства денима.

Таким образом, мы видим, что классические японские джинсы – это абсолютно ручной товар. Некоторые особенности таких джинсов, которые неосведомленный человек может считать дефектами, на самом деле совсем не дефекты. Часто они просто указывают на особенности конкретного производственного процесса, а иногда производители намеренно подчеркивают такие детали, стремясь придать своим джинсам “рукотворный”, “винтажный” вид. По сути, очарование аутентичного продукта в значительной степени состоит из множества мелких деталей, некоторые из которых не всегда очевидны носителю джинсов, и некоторые могут даже казаться небрежностью. В конце концов, многие из нас любят неровный, грубый, неровный деним, напоминающий материал, сделанный вручную. Все остальные детали, будь то спиральность брючин, намеренно неравномерная стежка и т. д., Суть в том же – указание на то, что этот предмет был сделан людьми и для людей.

ในปัจจุบันเมื่อพูดถึงผ้ายีนส์แบบดั้งเดิมที่มีคุณภาพสูงและสะท้อนภูมิปัญญาในอดีตอย่างแท้จริง ยีนส์ญี่ปุ่นนั้นมักเป็นสิ่งที่หลายคนนึกถึงเป็นอันดับแรก หากคุณมีไอเทมเหล่านี้ในมือครั้งแรกในชีวิต คุณจะรู้สึกถึงคุณภาพพิเศษที่มีลักษณะ “ทำด้วยมือ handmade” มีการถ่ายทอดดีเทลอย่างละเอียดและพื้นผิวของผ้ายีนส์ที่ไม่สม่ำเสมอ หมายถึงยีนส์ทุกตัวมีเอกลักษณ์เฉพาะ เช่น ขายีนส์ทั้งสองข้างอาจไม่ได้มีความสมมาตรเพอร์เฟค บ่อยครั้งผู้ผลิตจะพยายามเน้นที่คุณลักษณะ “วาบิ-ซาบิ” ของงานญี่ปุ่น ที่ความงามสูงสุดโดยไม่ได้อยู่ในความสมบูรณ์แบบของรูปร่าง แต่ดึงความโดดเด่นจากธรรมชาติของ “ความไม่สมบูรณ์แบบ” อย่างไรก็ตามมันคือ “ส่วนผสมที่ลงตัว” ที่ให้ความรู้สึกถึงความสมบูรณ์ของภาพรวมที่ยีนส์คลาสสิกทำหน้าที่เสมือนแคนวาส และบางองค์ประกอบที่มนุษย์เข้าใจว่าเป็นข้อบกพร่องกลับให้ความรู้สึกว่า ยีนส์เหล่านี้ถูกทำโดยคนเป็นตัว ไม่ใช่เครื่องจักรที่ไม่มีวิญญาณ ในวันนี้เราจะพยายามสำรวจบางองค์ประกอบเหล่านี้กัน และบางวิธีการผลิตของผู้ผลิตเกี่ยวกับการผลิตยีนส์เหล่านี้ก็จะทำให้คุณมองได้เห็นภาพชัดเจนขึ้น

• ขายีนส์บิดเบี้ยว (Leg Twist)

บ่อยครั้งที่คนซื้อยีนส์คุณภาพพรีเมียมบางครั้งใช้เงินจำนวนมาก ต้องนำมาทำให้ยีนส์หดลงพอดีตัวก่อนแล้วค่อยใส่ เเล้วคุณจะเห็นอะไรบ้างหลังจากนั้น? ขายีนส์ข้างหนึ่ง (มักจะเป็นขาซ้ายเมื่อตัวผ้าเดนิมเป็นการทอทวิลทแยงขวา) กลับออกมาเป็นทรงตะเข็บข้างยาบิดคร่อมมากกว่าเดิม หากเป็นเช่นนี้ก็ไม่ต้องกังวลใจ เพราะสิ่งนี้ไม่ใช่ข้อบกพร่องหรือความผิดพลาด นี่เป็นธรรมชาติของเนื้อผ้าเดนิมดิบญี่ปุ่น และบางครั้งผู้ผลิตก็ตั้งใจให้เป็นเช่นนั้น ประเด็นก็คือเส้นใยฝ้ายจะหดตัวอย่างหลีกเลี่ยงไม่ได้เมื่อแช่และทำให้แห้ง ดังนั้นด้ายจะบิดตัวในทิศทางของลายทแยง ในบางกรณี ผู้ผลิตพยายามที่จะเน้นย้ำคุณลักษณะนี้ให้มากยิ่งขึ้นโดยการตัดขาในตอนแรกในลักษณะที่ทำให้การบิดขาเด่นชัดยิ่งขึ้น การบิดขาไม่ส่งผลต่อคุณภาพของยีนส์หรือความสะดวกในการใช้งาน 

หากคุณเป็นคนที่ไม่ชอบยีนส์ขาบิด ก็เพียงแค่พยายามเลือกยีนส์ที่มีการหดตัวลงให้น้อยที่สุด การบิดของขายีนส์อาจจะเกิดขึ้นมากหรือน้อย หรืออาจจะไม่เกิดเลย เราเเนะนำว่ากรณีเป็นยีนส์ที่เคลือบซานโฟไรซ์ (การทำให้ผ้าหดตัว) หากคุณไม่ซักล้างยีนส์ที่อุณหภูมิสูงมากพอ ก็จะมีโอกาสที่ขายีนส์จะบิดน้อยลงหรืออาจจะไม่บิดเลยก็ได้

• ความยาวของขายีนส์ไม่เท่ากัน/ แตกต่างกันเล็กน้อย

ลักษณะความยาวไม่เท่ากันนี้ไม่ได้เกิดจากความบกพร่องในการผลิต ส่วนมากมักเกี่ยวข้องกับการหดของผ้ายีนส์เอง ไม่ว่าจะเป็นการหดของยีนส์ที่คุณทำเองหรือหากคุณซื้อรุ่นของยีนส์ที่มีอัตราการหด (แบบแช่ one wash) ความยาวที่ต่างกันนี้สามารถมองเห็นได้ชัดเจน โดยเฉพาะตอนสวมยีนส์ที่พับขาขึ้น หากคุณสวมยีนส์ที่ขนาดหดลง คุณอาจจะเห็นว่าขอบพับที่ขาหนึ่งอาจจะสั้นลงเล็กน้อย (ประมาณ 5 มม.) ซึ่งถือเป็นเรื่องปกติ เพียงแค่สวมยีนส์ของคุณด้วยความเพลิดเพลิน แล้วคุณจะลืมเรื่องนี้ได้อย่างรวดเร็ว

• ข้อพับเข่าที่ขยายตัว (Baggy) 

เมื่อเริ่มใส่ยีนส์คลาสสิคของแท้ หลาย ๆ คนจะเริ่มสังเกตเห็นว่าเนื้อผ้าเริ่มจะค่อย ๆ ยืดออก สิ่งนี้สามารถสังเกตได้ชัดเจนเป็นพิเศษในบริเวณหัวเข่า ไม่ใช่ว่ากางเกงยีนส์ที่ทอเดนิมจากผ้าฝ้าย 100% จะยืดเหมือนกันหมด โดยธรรมชาติผ้าฝ้ายจะหดตัวเมื่อแช่และทำให้แห้ง และจะยืดตัวเมื่อสวมใส่ ด้ายที่ทำจากผ้าฝ้ายที่มีเส้นใยสั้นจะยืดได้น้อยกว่า ในขณะที่ด้ายที่ทำจากผ้าฝ้ายที่มีเส้นใยยาวจะยืดได้มากกว่า อย่างไรก็ตาม กางเกงยีนส์คลาสสิกจะยืดในบริเวณที่มีความตึงผิว โดยพื้นฐานแล้วควรจะเป็นแบบนี้ สิ่งเหล่านี้เป็น “การปรับ” รูปทรงไปตามการเคลื่อนไหวของผู้สวมใส่เช่นกัน สีเปลี่ยนไปเนื่องจากการเสียดสี กางเกงยีนส์อาจยืดตรงไหนสักแห่ง และทำให้เกิดรอยยับที่อื่นก็เป็นได้ ซึ่งเป็นเรื่องปกติและเป็นธรรมชาติสำหรับยีนส์ หากต้องการแก้ไขบริเวณเข่าไม่ให้ดูยืดเกินไป แนะนำให้กลับด้านกางเกงยีนส์ด้านในออก ฉีดน้ำเบา ๆ และรีดบริเวณเหล่านี้อย่างระมัดระวัง ซึ่งจะใช้เวลาไม่เกิน 2-3 นาที คุณสามารถทำซ้ำขั้นตอนนี้ได้ตลอดเวลาตามต้องการ

• รอยพับ/ รอยยับบนกางเกงยีนส์และแจ็คเก็ตยีนส์

เป็นที่น่าสังเกตว่าลักษณะเหล่านี้มักมีอยู่ในกางเกงยีนส์หรือแจ็คเก็ตเดนิมที่ผ่านกระบวนการทำให้ผ้าหดตัวจากโรงงาน (แบบเเช่ one wash) โดยยีนส์จะถูกซักล้างและทำให้แห้งด้วยอุณหภูมิสูงเพื่อหลีกเลี่ยงการหดตัวในครั้งต่อไป หลายคนชอบสินค้าประเภทนี้เพราะกางเกงยีนส์หรือแจ็คเก็ตที่ซื้อมาไม่ต้องซักซ้ำหรือกลัวว่าจะหดตัวอีก

บางครั้งรอยพับหรือรอยยับต่าง ๆ อาจปรากฏบนผ้าเดนิมแบบ one wash เมื่อคุณแกะสินค้าดูครั้งแรกอาจยังไม่คุ้นชินกับผ้าเดนิมประเภทนี้ เพราะ “รอยยับ” เหล่านี้อาจทำให้คุณขัดตาเล็กน้อย วิธีแก้คือ ให้ค่อย ๆ รีดเสื้อผ้าจากด้านในออกด้านนอก (หลีกเลี่ยงการกดทับบนตะเข็บ) หรือเพียงแค่เริ่มสวมใส่ “ตามสภาพที่ได้มา” รอยยับทั้งหมดจะค่อย ๆ คลายตัวออกค่อนข้างเร็ว  บวกกับผ้าเดนิมจะยืดตัวออกบางจุด

•  เท็กซ์เจอร์สากบนเดนิม

เดนิมที่ทอด้วยเครื่องทอผ้าจะมีความไม่สม่ำเสมอในระดับหนึ่ง แม้ว่าจะไม่ใช่ลักษณะปกติของ “เดนิมผ้าสาก” ก็ตาม ด้ายที่ปั่นบนเครื่องปั่นแบบวงแหวนอาจมีความหนาแตกต่างกันไปตลอดแนวความยาว ผู้ผลิตมักตั้งใจใช้ผ้าฝ้ายที่มีเส้นใยสั้นพิเศษที่ไม่มีการหวีสาง ซึ่งทำให้ผ้าเดนิมมีความหยาบสากเช่นกัน หากคุณพลิกดูด้านหน้าของผ้าเดนิม คุณอาจพบรอยเย็บขาด รอยขาด หรือลักษณะอื่น ๆ สิ่งเหล่านี้ไม่ใช่ข้อบกพร่องจากการผลิต แต่เป็นคุณลักษณะเฉพาะของการผลิตเดนิมแบบโบราณเช่นนี้

ดังนั้นเราจึงเห็นว่ากางเกงยีนส์ญี่ปุ่นคลาสสิกเป็นสินค้าทำมืออย่างแท้จริง คุณสมบัติบางอย่างของกางเกงยีนส์ดังกล่าว หากใครที่ไม่มีความรู้อาจพิจารณาผิดพลาดได้ว่าสินค้ามีตำหนิ แท้จริงแล้วไม่ใช่ข้อบกพร่องใด ๆ แต่เป็นลักษณะเฉพาะที่เกิดจากกระบวนการผลิตหรือเทคนิคการทอพิเศษ และบางครั้งผู้ผลิตก็จงใจเน้นรายละเอียดดังกล่าวให้เกิดขึ้น โดยมีเป้าหมายเพื่อให้กางเกงยีนส์ของพวกเขามีลุค “แฮนด์เมด” และ “วินเทจ” เสน่ห์ของเดนิมญี่ปุ่นของแท้นั้นส่วนใหญ่ประกอบด้วยรายละเอียดเล็ก ๆ น้อย ๆ มากมาย ซึ่งบางส่วนอาจไม่ปรากฏให้ผู้สวมใส่กางเกงยีนส์เห็นชัดเจนเสมอไป ท้ายที่สุดแล้ว พวกเราหลายคนชอบผ้าเดนิมที่ไม่เรียบเนี้ยบ เน้นความทนทาน และผิวผ้าสาก ๆ ซึ่งมีลักษณะคล้ายกับไอเทมที่ทำด้วยมือ รายละเอียดอื่น ๆ ทั้งหมด ไม่ว่าจะเป็นการบิดของขายีนส์ การตั้งใจเย็บให้ขาไม่เท่ากันเป๊ะ ฯลฯ ซึ่งเป็นข้อบ่งชี้ว่าสินค้าชิ้นนั้นถูกสร้างขึ้นให้เป็นอัตลักษณ์เฉพาะของผู้ใส่เอง

現在、過去の伝統を最大限に反映した真に上質なトラディショナルデニムといえば、日本製ジーンズが真っ先に思い浮かぶ。生まれて初めて手にすれば、その特別な “手作り感”、ディテールの精巧さ、デニムの不均一な質感に衝撃を受けるに違いない。同時に、このようなジーンズは、常に完璧に均等、左右対称などとはほど遠い。多くの場合、メーカーは意図的に日本製品の特徴である「わびさび」を強調しようとする。そこでは、最大の美は絶対的に完璧な形ではなく、意図的に許されたある程度の「欠陥」にある。しかし、この「仕上げ」こそが、クラシックジーンズがキャンバスの役割を果たし、欠陥として人々に認識されるいくつかの要素が、実はこのジーンズが魂のない機械ではなく、生きた人間によって作られているという感覚を与えてくれる、「絵」全体に完成された印象を与えるのである。今日は、これらの要素のいくつかを検証してみることにしよう。そうすることで、このようなジーンズを作るためのメーカーのアプローチが、あなたにも明らかになるかもしれない。

• 脚のねじれ

よくあることだが、ある人が素晴らしいジーンズを、時にはかなりのお金をかけて購入し、それを縮めて履いてみる。そして彼は何を見たか？片方の脚（ツイルの方向が右の場合、左の脚であることが多い）が突然大きくねじれ、セルビッジの端が股下とほぼ隣り合わせになっているのだ。絶望する必要はない。これは欠陥でも欠点でもない。これはクラシックな生デニムに特徴的な要素として許容されるものであり、時には意図的に作られることもある。要は、綿繊維は水に浸して乾燥させるとどうしても縮んでしまうため、ジーンズの縫製元であるデニム自体に、どうしても糸が綾の方向にねじれてしまうのです。場合によっては、メーカーがこの特徴をさらに強調しようと、脚のねじれがより顕著になるように最初に脚をカットすることもあります。脚のねじれはジーンズ自体の品質や使いやすさには影響しませんし、文字通り数時間で気にならなくなります。

ところで、もしあなたが脚のねじれを断固反対するのであれば、縮みを最小限に抑えたジーンズ、つまり脚のねじれを最小限に抑えたジーンズを選ぶようにすればいい。まず、サンフォライズドデニム製のジーンズに注意してください。そのようなジーンズを高温で洗わなければ、脚のねじれは最小限に抑えられるか、まったくなくなる可能性が高い。

• ズボンの脚の長さが微妙に違う

そう、そんなニュアンスもあり得るのだ。繰り返しますが、これは生産上の過失の問題ではありません。多くの場合、ジーンズ自体の縮みに直接関係しています。自分で縮ませたか、工場で縮ませた（ワンウォッシュ）ジーンズを買ったかに関係なく、そのようなニュアンスが目立つことがあります。特に、袖口がロールアップされたジーンズを履くと、それが顕著になることがあります。縮んだジーンズを履いてボタンを留め、ロールアップしたカフスを見ると、片足のカフスがもう片方よりわずかに（文字通り5mm）短いことに気づくかもしれません。これは完全に正常な状態であり、人体が完全な左右対称ではないという事実によって悪化している。片足（多くの場合、右足）がもう片方よりわずかに長いことがある。そのため、袖口がロールアップされたジーンズの場合、これが目立つこともある。この問題を解決する方法はとても簡単で、ジーンズを楽しく履けば、この “問題 “をすぐに忘れることができる。

• ジーンズの膝が伸びる（袋状になる

オーセンティックなクラシックジーンズを穿き始めると、多くの人が生地が徐々に伸び始めることに気づき始める。これは特に膝の部分で目立つことがある。その理由は、（伝統的な意味での）ジーンズが常に100％コットンで作られているからではありません。よく知られているように、綿は水に浸して乾燥させると縮み、穿いているうちに伸びる。繊維の短い綿から作られた糸はあまり伸びず、繊維の長い綿から作られた糸はより伸びる。しかし、どんなクラシックなジーンズでも、張力のある部分は伸びます。要するに、ジーンズはこうあるべきなのだ。ジーンズはある意味、”生きている “アイテムなのだ。摩擦によって色が変わるように、穿く人の動きによって形も変わる。ジーンズはどこかが伸び、どこかがシワになる。少し伸びた膝が見苦しく感じられるなら、ジーンズを裏返しにするだけでいい。軽く水をかけ、その部分に丁寧にアイロンをかけます。2～3分もかかりません。この作業は、いつでも必要に応じて繰り返すことができます。

• ジーンズやデニムジャケットの折り目、シワのある生地

これらの特徴は、一般的に工場で直接（ワンウォッシュ）縮み工程を経たジーンズやデニムジャケットに固有のものであることを述べておく価値がある。多くの場合、ジーンズはそれ以上の縮みを避けるため、高温で洗濯・乾燥される。多くの人は、届いたジーンズやジャケットが縮むことを恐れて再度洗濯する必要がないという確信がある場合、このタイプの製品を好みます。 工業的な条件下で洗濯・乾燥させた結果、ワンウォッシュのデニムに様々な折り目やシワが現れることがあります。そう、初めて商品を開梱したとき、まだワンウォッシュデニムを知らない人は、この「しわ」に少し戸惑うかもしれない。実は、これは意外と簡単なことなのだ。前述したように、内側から優しくアイロンをかけるか（縫い目に圧力をかけないように）、”そのまま “穿き始めてください。すべての凹凸はすぐに滑らかになり、デニムは部分的に伸びるでしょう。ジーンズやジャケットの最初の見た目を思い出すこともないだろう。

• デニムのスラブ

シャトル織機で織られたデニムは、一般に “スラブ・デニム “と呼ばれるものでなくても、ある程度不均一になる。リング紡績機で紡がれた糸もまた、長さを通して太さが異なることがある。また、メーカーが意図的に撚りのかかっていない極短繊維のコットンを使用することも多く、これもデニムを意図的に粗くしている。時々、デニムの表側を注意深く観察すると、ステッチ飛びやスラブなどが見つかることがあるが、これも欠陥ではない。これらはまさに、古風なデニム生産の特徴なのである。

このように、クラシックな日本のジーンズは絶対的なハンドメイド製品であることがわかる。このようなジーンズのいくつかの特徴は、知識のない人が欠陥と考えるかもしれませんが、実際には欠陥ではありません。多くの場合、それらは単に特定の生産工程の特殊性を示しているだけであり、時にはメーカーが意図的にそのようなディテールを強調し、ジーンズに「ハンドメイド」「ヴィンテージ」感を与えることを目的としていることもある。本質的に、本物の商品の魅力は、多くの小さなディテールから構成されている。結局のところ、私たちの多くは、手作業で作られた素材のような、不揃いで無骨なスラブデニムが好きなのだ。脚のねじれ、意図的な不均一なステッチなど、その他のディテールは基本的にすべて同じで、このアイテムが人の手によって、人のために作られたことを示している。

Pada masa ini, apabila bercakap tentang denim tradisional yang benar-benar berkualiti tinggi yang mencerminkan tradisi masa lalu ke tahap yang paling besar, seluar jeans Jepun secara khusus terlintas di fikiran di tempat pertama. Jika anda mengambil barang sebegitu di tangan anda buat kali pertama dalam hidup anda, anda pasti akan terpegun dengan kualiti istimewa “buatan tangan” bagi barangan tersebut, perincian terperinci, dan tekstur denim yang tidak sekata. Pada masa yang sama, seluar jeans sebegitu jauh daripada sentiasa sekata sempurna, simetri, dan lain-lain. Selalunya, pengeluar sengaja cuba untuk menekankan ciri “wabi-sabi” produk Jepun, di mana keindahan terbesar bukan terletak pada kesempurnaan mutlak bentuk tetapi dalam tahap tertentu “kecacatan” yang dibenarkan secara sengaja, yang agak tidak penting dan sama sekali tidak menjejaskan kualiti produk itu sendiri. Walau bagaimanapun, “sentuhan penamat” inilah yang memberikan gambaran keseluruhan kesempurnaan kepada keseluruhan “gambar”, di mana seluar jeans klasik berfungsi sebagai kanvas, dan beberapa elemen yang dianggap oleh orang sebagai kecacatan sebenarnya memberi kita perasaan bahawa seluar jeans ini dibuat. oleh manusia yang hidup, bukan mesin yang tidak berjiwa. Hari ini, kami akan cuba mengkaji beberapa elemen ini, dan mungkin pendekatan pengeluar untuk membuat seluar jeans sedemikian akan menjadi lebih jelas kepada anda.

• Pusing Kaki

Ia sering berlaku bahawa seseorang membeli seluar jeans yang sangat baik, kadang-kadang membelanjakan sejumlah besar wang, mengecilkannya, dan memakainya. Dan apa yang dia nampak? Salah satu kaki (selalunya kaki kiri, apabila arah kepar adalah ke kanan) tiba-tiba bertukar menjadi sangat berpusing, sehinggakan tepi selvedge hampir bersebelahan dengan inseam. Malah, tidak perlu putus asa. Ini bukan kecacatan atau kecacatan. Ini adalah ciri elemen denim mentah klasik yang boleh diterima, dan kadangkala dibuat dengan sengaja. Intinya ialah gentian kapas pasti akan mengecut apabila direndam dan dikeringkan, dan dengan itu, benang pasti akan memutar denim itu sendiri, dari mana seluar jeans dijahit, ke arah kepar. Dalam sesetengah kes, pengeluar berusaha untuk menekankan ciri ini dengan lebih banyak lagi dengan memotong kaki pada mulanya sedemikian rupa sehingga lilitan kaki lebih ketara. Pusingan kaki tidak menjejaskan kualiti seluar jeans itu sendiri atau kemudahan penggunaannya, dan anda akan berhenti menyedarinya secara literal dalam masa beberapa jam.

Ngomong-ngomong, jika anda seorang penentang tegar twist kaki, maka cuba pilih seluar jeans dengan pengecutan minimum, dan oleh itu, pusingan minimum kaki. Pertama sekali, perhatikan seluar jeans yang diperbuat daripada denim sanforized. Sekiranya anda tidak mencuci seluar jeans sedemikian pada suhu yang sangat panas, kemungkinan besar twist kaki akan diekspresikan secara minimum atau tidak hadir sama sekali.

• Perbezaan sedikit dalam panjang kaki seluar

Nuansa seperti itu juga mungkin. Sekali lagi, ini bukan tentang sebarang kecuaian dalam pengeluaran. Lebih kerap daripada tidak, ia secara langsung berkaitan dengan pengecutan seluar jeans itu sendiri. Tidak kira sama ada anda mengecilkan seluar jeans itu sendiri atau jika anda membeli versi seluar jeans dengan pengecutan kilang (satu cucian), nuansa seperti itu boleh dilihat. Ini boleh menjadi jelas terutamanya jika anda memakai seluar jeans dengan manset yang digulung. Jika anda memakai seluar jeans kecut, butangkannya, dan lihat pada manset yang digulung, anda mungkin dapati bahawa manset pada satu kaki mungkin lebih pendek sedikit daripada yang lain (secara literal sebanyak 5mm). Ini adalah keadaan yang benar-benar normal, yang diperburuk oleh fakta bahawa, sebagai peraturan, tubuh manusia tidak sepenuhnya simetri. Satu kaki (selalunya kaki kanan) mungkin lebih panjang sedikit daripada yang lain. Oleh itu, dalam kes seluar jeans dengan manset yang digulung, ini juga boleh dilihat. Penyelesaian masalah ini sangat mudah – hanya pakai seluar jeans anda dengan senang hati, dan anda akan segera melupakan “isu” ini.

• Lutut diregangkan (baggy) pada seluar jeans

Ramai orang, apabila mula memakai seluar jeans klasik tulen, mula menyedari bahawa fabrik secara beransur-ansur mula meregang. Ini boleh menjadi ketara terutamanya di kawasan lutut. Sebab untuk ini bukanlah seluar jeans (dalam erti kata tradisional) sentiasa diperbuat daripada 100% kapas. Seperti yang diketahui, kapas mengecut apabila direndam dan dikeringkan serta meregang apabila dipakai. Benang yang diperbuat daripada kapas dengan gentian yang lebih pendek meregangkan lebih sedikit, manakala benang yang diperbuat daripada kapas dengan gentian yang lebih panjang meregangkan lebih banyak. Walau bagaimanapun, mana-mana seluar jeans klasik akan meregangkan di kawasan yang terdapat ketegangan. Pada dasarnya, mereka sepatutnya seperti ini. Mereka, dalam erti kata lain, item “hidup”. Sama seperti warnanya berubah akibat geseran, bentuknya juga berubah kerana pergerakan si pemakai. Jeans meregang di suatu tempat, mereka mengembangkan kedutan di tempat lain – ini benar-benar semula jadi dan normal untuk seluar jeans. Jika lutut yang sedikit tegang kelihatan terlalu tidak sedap dipandang oleh anda, hanya pusingkan seluar jeans dari dalam. Sembur air sedikit dan seterika kawasan ini dengan berhati-hati. Ini akan mengambil masa tidak lebih daripada 2-3 minit. Anda boleh mengulangi proses ini mengikut keperluan pada bila-bila masa.

• Lipatan, kain berkedut pada seluar jeans dan jaket denim

Perlu dinyatakan bahawa ciri-ciri ini biasanya wujud dalam seluar jeans atau jaket denim yang telah melalui proses pengecutan terus di kilang (satu cucian). Selalunya, seluar jeans dibasuh dan dikeringkan pada suhu tinggi untuk mengelakkan pengecutan selanjutnya. Ramai orang lebih suka produk jenis ini apabila mereka yakin bahawa seluar jeans atau jaket yang mereka terima tidak perlu dicuci lagi, takut ia akan mengecut.
Kadangkala, pelbagai lipatan atau lipatan mungkin muncul pada satu basuhan denim akibat daripada mencuci dan mengeringkan dalam keadaan industri. Ya, apabila anda mula-mula membongkar item itu dan masih belum mengenali satu cucian denim, “kedutan” ini mungkin membingungkan anda sedikit. Malah, ia lebih mudah daripada yang kelihatan. Sama ada, seperti yang dinyatakan sebelum ini, seterika item dengan lembut dari dalam ke luar (mengelakkan tekanan pada jahitan), atau hanya mula memakai item “sebagaimana adanya.” Semua penyelewengan akan lancar dengan cepat, dan denim akan meregang di beberapa kawasan. Item itu akan kelihatan hebat, dan anda tidak akan ingat penampilan awal seluar jeans atau jaket tersebut.

• Slub dalam denim

Denim yang ditenun pada mesin tenun ulang-alik sedikit sebanyak akan menjadi tidak sekata, walaupun ia bukan apa yang biasa dirujuk sebagai “denim slubby.” Benang yang dipintal pada mesin pemutar cincin juga mungkin mempunyai ketebalan yang berbeza-beza sepanjang panjangnya. Pengilang sering sengaja menggunakan kapas dengan gentian ultra-pendek yang tidak disikat, yang juga menjadikan denim sengaja kasar. Kadangkala, jika anda meneliti bahagian muka denim dengan berhati-hati, anda mungkin mendapati jahitan yang dilangkau, slub dan kejadian lain seperti itu, yang juga bukan kecacatan. Ini adalah tepat ciri-ciri pengeluaran denim jenis kuno.

Oleh itu, kita melihat bahawa seluar jeans Jepun klasik adalah produk buatan tangan mutlak. Sesetengah ciri seluar jeans sedemikian, yang mungkin dianggap sebagai kecacatan oleh orang yang tidak mengetahui, sebenarnya bukanlah kecacatan sama sekali. Selalunya, mereka hanya menunjukkan keanehan proses pengeluaran tertentu, dan kadangkala pengeluar sengaja menekankan butiran sedemikian, bertujuan untuk memberikan seluar jeans mereka rupa “buatan tangan”, “vintage”. Pada dasarnya, daya tarikan produk tulen sebahagian besarnya terdiri daripada banyak butiran kecil, sesetengah daripadanya mungkin tidak selalunya jelas kepada pemakai seluar jeans, malah ada yang kelihatan sebagai cuai. Lagipun, ramai di antara kita suka denim yang tidak sekata, lasak, slubby yang menyerupai bahan yang dibuat dengan tangan. Semua butiran lain, sama ada pusingan kaki, jahitan tidak rata dengan sengaja, dsb., pada asasnya adalah sama – petunjuk bahawa item ini dibuat oleh orang dan untuk orang.

현재 과거의 전통을 최대한 반영한 진정한 고품질 전통 데님이라고하면 특히 일본 청바지가 가장 먼저 떠오릅니다. 생애 처음으로 그러한 아이템을 손에 든다면 그러한 아이템의 특별한 “수제”품질, 디테일의 정교함, 데님의 고르지 않은 질감에 반드시 놀라실 것입니다. 동시에 이러한 청바지는 항상 완벽하게 균일하고 대칭적인 것과는 거리가 멀다. 종종 제조업체는 의도적으로 일본 제품의 특징적인 “와비 사비”를 강조하려고하는데, 여기서 가장 큰 아름다움은 형태의 절대적인 완벽 함이 아니라 의도적으로 허용되는 어느 정도의 “결함”에 있으며, 이는 매우 중요하지 않고 제품 자체의 품질에 영향을 미치지 않습니다. 그러나 클래식 청바지가 캔버스 역할을하는 전체 “그림”에 전체적인 완성도를 부여하는 것은 바로이 “마무리 터치”이며, 사람들이 결함으로 인식하는 일부 요소는 실제로이 청바지가 영혼이없는 기계가 아닌 살아있는 사람이 만든 것 같은 느낌을줍니다. 오늘 우리는 이러한 요소 중 일부를 살펴 보려고 노력할 것이며 아마도 그러한 청바지를 만드는 제조업체의 접근 방식이 더 명확해질 것입니다.

• 다리 꼬기

사람이 훌륭한 청바지를 구입하고 때로는 상당한 돈을 들여서 수축하고 입는 경우가 종종 있습니다. 그리고 그는 무엇을 보나요? 다리 중 하나 (대부분 능직 방향이 오른쪽 인 경우 왼쪽 다리)가 갑자기 심하게 뒤틀려서 셀비지 가장자리가 거의 인심 옆에있을 정도로 심하게 뒤틀린 것으로 밝혀졌습니다. 사실 절망할 필요는 없습니다. 이것은 결함이나 결함이 아닙니다. 이것은 허용되는 요소이며 때로는 의도적으로 만들어진 클래식 생 데님의 특징입니다. 요점은 면 섬유는 담그고 말리면 필연적으로 수축 할 수 있으므로 실이 청바지를 꿰매는 데님 자체를 능직 방향으로 필연적으로 비틀어 질 수 있다는 것입니다. 경우에 따라 제조업체는 처음에 다리 꼬임이 더 뚜렷한 방식으로 다리를 절단하여이 기능을 더욱 강조하려고합니다. 다리 꼬임은 청바지 자체의 품질이나 사용 편의성에 영향을 미치지 않으며 문자 그대로 몇 시간 내에 눈에 띄지 않게됩니다.

그건 그렇고, 다리 비틀림에 대한 확고한 반대자라면 수축이 최소화되어 다리의 비틀림이 최소화 된 청바지를 선택하기 만하면됩니다. 우선, 샌포라이즈 데님으로 만든 청바지에주의하십시오. 이러한 청바지를 매우 뜨거운 온도에서 세탁하지 않으면 다리 꼬임이 최소한으로 표현되거나 전혀 나타나지 않을 가능성이 높습니다.

• 바지 다리 길이의 약간의 차이

예, 그러한 뉘앙스도 가능합니다. 다시 말하지만 이것은 생산상의 과실에 관한 것이 아닙니다. 대부분의 경우 청바지 자체의 수축과 직접적인 관련이 있습니다. 청바지를 직접 수축하든 공장 수축 (한 번 세탁)이있는 청바지 버전을 구입했는지 여부에 관계없이 이러한 뉘앙스가 눈에 띄게 나타날 수 있습니다. 특히 커프스가 롤업된 청바지를 입으면 더욱 두드러집니다. 수축된 청바지를 입고 단추를 잠그고 롤업된 커프를 보면 한쪽 다리의 커프가 다른 쪽 다리보다 약간 짧을 수 있습니다(문자 그대로 5mm 정도). 이것은 완전히 정상적인 상황이며, 일반적으로 인체가 완전히 대칭이 아니라는 사실로 인해 악화됩니다. 한쪽 다리 (종종 오른쪽 다리)가 다른 쪽 다리보다 약간 더 길 수 있습니다. 따라서 커프스가 롤업 된 청바지의 경우이 문제도 눈에 띄게 나타날 수 있습니다. 이 문제에 대한 해결책은 매우 간단합니다. 청바지를 즐겁게 착용하면이 “문제”를 금방 잊을 수 있습니다.

• 청바지의 늘어난 (헐렁한) 무릎

많은 사람들이 정통 클래식 청바지를 입기 시작하면 원단이 서서히 늘어나기 시작하는 것을 느끼기 시작합니다. 이는 특히 무릎 부위에서 두드러지게 나타납니다. 그 이유는 청바지 (전통적인 의미에서)가 항상 100 %면으로 만들어지기 때문이 아닙니다. 알려진 바와 같이 면은 물에 담그고 말리면 수축하고 착용할수록 늘어납니다. 섬유가 짧은 면으로 만든 실은 덜 늘어나는 반면 섬유가 긴 면으로 만든 실은 더 늘어납니다. 그러나 모든 클래식 청바지는 장력이 있는 부위에서 늘어납니다. 본질적으로, 그들은 이와 같아야합니다. 어떤 의미에서 청바지는 ‘살아있는’ 아이템입니다. 마찰로 인해 색이 변하는 것처럼 착용자의 움직임에 따라 모양도 변합니다. 청바지는 어딘가에서 늘어나고 다른 어딘가에서 주름이 생기는데, 이는 청바지의 자연스럽고 정상적인 현상입니다. 무릎이 약간 늘어난 것이 너무 보기 흉하다면 청바지를 뒤집어 세탁하세요. 이 부분에 물을 가볍게 뿌리고 조심스럽게 다림질하세요. 이 과정은 2~3분 이상 걸리지 않습니다. 이 과정은 언제든지 필요에 따라 반복할 수 있습니다.

• 청바지와 데님 재킷의 주름, 구겨진 원단

이러한 특성은 일반적으로 공장에서 직접 수축 공정을 거친 청바지나 데님 재킷에 내재되어 있습니다(한 번 세탁). 청바지는 더 이상의 수축을 방지하기 위해 고온에서 세탁하고 건조하는 경우가 많습니다. 많은 사람들이 청바지나 재킷이 줄어들까 봐 다시 세탁할 필요가 없다고 확신할 때 이러한 유형의 제품을 선호합니다.
때로는 산업 조건에서 세탁 및 건조의 결과로 하나의 워싱 데님에 다양한 주름이나 주름이 나타날 수 있습니다. 예, 처음 포장을 풀고 아직 워싱 데님에 익숙하지 않은 경우 이러한 “주름”이 약간 당황 스러울 수 있습니다. 사실 생각보다 훨씬 간단합니다. 앞서 언급한 것처럼 안쪽에서 바깥쪽으로 부드럽게 다림질하거나(솔기에 압력을 가하지 않도록 주의하세요), “있는 그대로” 입으세요. 모든 불규칙한 부분이 상당히 빨리 부드러워지고 일부 부분에서는 데님이 늘어날 것입니다. 아이템이 멋지게 보일 것이며 그러한 청바지나 재킷의 초기 모습조차 기억하지 못할 것입니다.

• 데님 슬러브

셔틀 직기로 짠 데님은 일반적으로 “슬러비 데님”이라고 불리는 것은 아니더라도 어느 정도는 고르지 않습니다. 링 방적기에서 방적된 실도 길이에 따라 두께가 다를 수 있습니다. 제조업체는 종종 의도적으로 빗질되지 않은 초단섬유가 있는 면을 사용하여 데님을 의도적으로 거칠게 만들기도 합니다. 간혹 데님의 앞면을 자세히 살펴보면 건너뛴 스티치, 슬러브 등을 발견할 수 있는데, 이 역시 결함이 아닙니다. 이것이 바로 이러한 고풍스러운 유형의 데님 생산의 특징입니다.

따라서 우리는 고전적인 일본 청바지가 절대적인 수제 제품임을 알 수 있습니다. 모르는 사람이 결함으로 간주 할 수있는 이러한 청바지의 일부 기능은 실제로는 전혀 결함이 아닙니다. 종종 그들은 단순히 특정 생산 공정의 특성을 나타내며 때로는 제조업체가 청바지에 “수제”, “빈티지”느낌을주기 위해 의도적으로 이러한 세부 사항을 강조하는 경우가 있습니다. 본질적으로 정통 제품의 매력은 주로 많은 작은 세부 사항으로 구성되며, 그중 일부는 청바지 착용자에게 항상 분명하지 않을 수 있으며 일부는 부주의로 보일 수도 있습니다. 결국, 많은 사람들이 손으로 만든 소재처럼 울퉁불퉁하고 투박하며 칙칙한 데님을 좋아합니다. 다리의 꼬임, 의도적으로 고르지 않은 스티치 등 다른 모든 디테일은 본질적으로 동일하며, 이는 이 제품이 사람에 의해, 사람을 위해 만들어졌다는 것을 나타냅니다.