Once considered exclusively blue-collar workwear, denim has become a cornerstone of the global wardrobe. Denim popularity wavered in places like the United States in the 1950’s, becoming a symbol of rebellion over a sign of a worker. Later, in the late 1980’s, denim became a high fashion staple seen on runways in the United States and worldwide.
Because of the limited number of mills in the United States to produce the fabric, the vast majority of denim produced in the United States came from the same source – the Cone Mills plant in North Carolina, which sadly is no more. Because of this, the fade patterns in American denim are similar and more consistent with one another. While some people prefer the classic look of the American denim, those looking for more variety in color, texture, and fades than standard American denim might find themselves looking at other sources. This is where Japanese denim comes to the rescue! Unlike their American counterpart, Japanese denim mills are more adventurous with their production and seek to explore the different ways of producing a variety of colours, fade patterns and textures. Today’s Japan has possibly the most interesting and experienced denim mills in the world
more
Colours
Japanese dyeing techniques are based on centuries of experience. Japan has long experimented with textile dyeing, even before the existence of denim. Their rich history in textile dyeing dates all the way back to the production of kimonos from hundreds of years ago. With such a background, many Japanese denim mills tend to experiment more with their colours, resulting in innovative details like the indigo warp/black weft and natural persimmon dyes.
A prime example for this would be Samurai Jeans recent Book of Five Rings collection:
MOMOTARO JEANS have recently released quite some unique blue weft jeans in collaboration with us.
Our most recent collaborations with Studio d’Artisan also showcase to traditional Japanese dyeing techniques: SUMI (a grey-ink dye) and KAKISHIBU (persimmon dye):
The fading in American denim is more even and consistent, giving a vintage color and feel to these jeans. The blue hues developed from a well-worn pair of American denim are easily recognizable from its classic faded patterns, as compared to the high-contrast fading that Japanese denim produce (of course, this also depends on the frequency of washing the denim, as well!).
Texture
Because of the dominance of the Cone Mills plant in America, denim that utilizes Cone’s White Oak fabrics are relatively consistent in their looks and textures. Denim produced by Cone Mills is woven using vintage shuttle looms- American Draper x3’s dating back to the 1940’s. Denim produced using the Draper x3’s have generally smoother and softer surfaces compared to Japanese denim. This quality is sometimes attributed to the bounce of the machinery off White Oak’s hardwood floors while in use, though this fact is still somewhat speculated by many.
Japanese denim on the other hand is woven on Toyoda looms that result in uneven and less consistent textures. Japanese denim is often stiffer than denim one might find elsewhere, due to it being loomstate, or, completely unchanged from the loom. It hasn’t been shrunk, washed or mercerized. It is pure denim. The rigidity that comes with this often means this denim will have a more uncomfortable break-in period, but one that will mold to your skin and become better with each wear.
Masters of wild texture are ONI, Tanuki and Pure Blue Japan:
Weight
Another great element Japanese denim has to offer is the variety of fabric weights produced by their denim mills. While Japanese mills produce plenty of lightweight denim, most denim 20 oz. or more come from Japan. Japanese denim has a wider range of choices to cater for different preferences of denim lovers. In comparison, most high-end American denim sits around the 14oz mark.
Details
This is not strictly about denim but it plays an important role nonetheless: Japanese brands have a tendency to obsess over even the smallest detail. There are brands like COTTLE who hand cast every single top button in iron by hand.
Brands like MOMOTARO and SAMURAI JEANS go all out to source shirt-quality pocket linings which are sturdy and even though you don’t see them, you know it’s there and it’s such a nice touch. Nearly all Japanese brands pack a couple of nice little extras which simply add to the appeal of the denim.
So Which One Is Better?
At the end of the day, it all comes down to personal preference. Some people love the classic and vintage feel of American denim while those who prefer more variety in textures, weight, and colours might opt for Japanese denim.
There remains no clear winner for which is the better fabric, however, if you are looking for more variety in your denim wardrobe, Japanese denim might be for you. The variety in texture, weight, and color offers you a world of possibility.
Karena keterbatasan jumlah pabrik produsen fabrik di Amerika Serikat, sebagian besar denim diproduksi di Amerika Serikat berasal dari sumber tunggal – pabrik Cone Mills di Carolina Utara. Oleh karena itu, pola pudar pada setiap denim Amerika biasanya lebih identik dan konsisten. Ketika sebagian individual lebih memilih tampilan klasik dari denim Amerika, beberapa dari pecinta denim bereksplorasi dengan lebih banyak variasi dalam warna, tekstur dan hasil pudaran yang berbeda dari denim standar Amerika melalui sumber lainnya.
Di sinilah denim Jepang berkembang dan dikenalkan secara menglobal. Berbeda dari Amerika Serikat, pabrik Jepang mengekplorasikan berbagai cara kreatif dan menyediakan berbagai warna, pola pudar dan tekstur dalam memproduksi denim.
WARNA
Jepang memiliki pengalaman profesional dalam eksperimen pencelupan bahan tekstil, bahkan sebelum denim dikenalkan. Sejarah panjang keahlian ini dimulai dari ratusan tahun yang lalu sejak memproduksi baju tradisional Jepang yang ternama, kimono. Oleh karena itu, pabrik denim Jepang cenderung bereksperimen dengan warna, sehingga menghasilkan detail inovatif seperti warna warp indigo/weft hitam dan pewarna kesemek alami.
Denim Amerika menghasilkan hasil pudaran yang lebih merata dan konsisten, memberikan warna vintage pada jeans. Warna biru yang berkembang dari jeans denim Amerika sangat mudah dikenali dari pola klasik pudarannya, dibandingkan dengan hasil pudar denim Jepang yang memiliki kontras yang tinggi (tentu saja, hal ini juga tergantung kepada frekuensi pencucian denim Anda!). Pewarna indigo yang digunakan pada denim Amerika biasanya merupakan pewarna alami dan bukan sintetis, menghasilkan hasil pudar yang konsisten dan berkualitas untuk tampilan klasik dari waktu ke waktu.
TEKSTUR
Karena dominasi pabrik Cone Mills di Amerika, denim yang memanfaatkan fabrik Cone White Oak memiliki tampilan dan tekstur yang relatif konsisten. Denim diproduksi oleh pabrik Cone Mills ditenun dengan menggunakan shuttle looms vintage-Amerika Draper x3 yang digunakan secara tradisional pada tahun 1940-an. Denim yang diproduksi menggunakan Draper x3 memiliki permukaan yang umumnya lebih halus dan lembut dibandingkan dengan denim Jepang. Kualitas ini terkadang dikaitkan dengan hasil bounce mesin terhadap lantai kayu White Oak ketika digunakan, namun fakta ini masih merupakan spekulasi publik.
Di sisi lain, denim Jepang ditenun dengan alat tenun Toyoda yang menghasilkan tekstur kurang merata maupun konsisten. Denim Jepang biasanya cenderung kaku dari denim lainnya, dikarenakan oleh proses loomstate, tidak berubah pada proses penenunan. Tenunan belum mengalami penyusutan, pencucian atau pun proses mercerize. Ini merupakan denim murni. Kesan kokoh ini dapat menyebabkan pengenaan yang kurang nyaman dalam jangka waktu tertentu, namun akan mengikuti bentuk kaki Anda dan menjadi lebih nyaman seiring pemakaian.
BOBOT
Elemen terbaik lainnya yang ditawarkan denim Jepang yaitu pada aspek berat fabrik yang dihasilkan. Sebagian besar pabrik Jepang menghasilkan denim berbobot ringan, namun denim dengan berat 20 oz. atau pun lebih juga berasal dari Jepang, dimana denim Jepang telah menawarkan lebih banyak pilihan yang beragam untuk memenuhi preferensi berbeda setiap pecinta denim. sebagai perbandingan, denim premium Amerika memiliki berat 14 oz.
KESIMPULANNYA, DENIM MANAKAH YANG LEBIH UNGGUL?
Pada akhirnya, hal ini tergantung kepada preferensi pribadi setiap individual. Sebagian orang menyukai kesan klasik dan vintage denim Amerika sementara yang lainnya lebih memilih variasi tekstur, berat dan warna yang beragam dalam denim Jepang.
Tidak ada pemenang yang pasti mengenai kualitas fabrik yang lebih baik, namun, jika Anda menginginkan variasi yang lebih beragam dalam koleksi pakaian denim Anda, Anda dapat mempertimbangkan denim Jepang. Anda akan menikmati eksplorasi berbagai tekstur, berat dan warna denim yang beragam.
Jika Anda ingin melihat beberapa merek denim premium Jepang yang terbaik, silahkan cek Webstore Denim Jepang kami untuk daftar penawaran denim Jepang terlengkap kami.[:zh]想起蓝领阶级的工作服饰，丹宁服饰绝对是全球认可的必备单品。丹宁从1950年代美国开始流行，渐渐成为街头/叛逆风格的象徵而不是工作服饰。一直到1980年代，丹宁成为前卫时尚的重要元素，从美国到全世界的伸展台都可以见到丹宁。
由于美国生产丹宁布料的厂家有限，几乎所有来自美国的丹宁面料都来自同一个地方- 北卡罗莱纳州的Cone Mills。也因为如此，美国丹宁的落色图案几乎可以说非常一致，无论裤款皆是如此。有些人喜欢这种经点典美国丹宁的特色，但对于想要追求颜色、质感和落色有著不同风格时，就会想要寻求其他面料来源。
而 日本丹宁 就像是个救世主!不像美国，日本厂家更大胆挑战不同生产制作：颜色、落色和触感部分。
颜色COLOURS
日本在纺织染色上历经许久的实验过程，甚至在丹宁布出现前。丰富的历史可追溯至几百年前开始生产和服的面料。也因为这样的历史背景，许多日本丹宁制造厂家花心思实验制作颜色，创造出新的细节像是蓝纬经黒，或是不同的天然印染。
美国丹宁的落色相对平均且一致，让复刻的颜色和触感显而易见。蓝色的毛绒或纤维在一件经常穿的裤子上非常好辨认，而日本丹宁则是生产高对比落色的裤款(当然取决于你有多常洗裤子)美国所使用天然的靛染非常自然，这样的经典功夫也是裤子能够创造日经月异的经典落色重要元素。
触感TEXTURE
因为美国Cone Mills的面料主宰，Cone的White Oak布所制成的丹宁一直有著很相近的外表和质感。Cone Mill所制作的丹宁是使用古老的机台-可以回溯至1940年代的American Draper x3’s，使用Draper x3’s制作的丹宁有著跟日本丹宁相比更佳柔软与舒适的表层。这样的品质也有人归功于White Oak硬版楼层的机具一致性的制作流程，直至今日还是有人非常向往这样的统一性。
日本丹宁则是使用Toyoda制作表层触感就没有这么平均和一致的舒适。日本丹宁常常比你在其他地方看到的丹宁要来的坚硬，因为机台的关系你几乎无法更改制作布料的设定。使得丹宁布没有水洗过、没有预缩更别说硷化处理。基本上就是「纯」丹宁。这样的制作程序让买家可感受每一次裤子经过穿著和洗涤后不同的感受还有样貌。
重量WEIGHT
另一个很重要的日本丹宁元素，就是提供各式各样面料的重量选择，许多厂家试图制作轻量的裤款，也有生产20oz或是更重。这让许多愿意尝鲜的买家有更多选择，也更多值得玩味的裤款选择。相较之下，美国高端丹宁都是以14oz作为制作标的。
所以，哪个比较好？
SO,WHICH ONE IS BETTER?
这样说起来，还是个人的喜好问题。有人喜欢经典美式丹宁的触感和颜色。有些人则是喜欢更多元选择的日本单宁，因为裤款更多、颜色和面料选择更多元。
我们仍然不知道赢家是谁，然而你如果在找更多元的丹宁裤选择，日本丹宁会很适合你，论质感和落色都可以让你个丹宁更多采多姿。
如果你想知道更多日本丹宁品牌，绝对要逛逛我们的 Japanese Denim Store收录各式各样的丹宁品牌与绝佳商品。[:de]
Once considered exclusively blue-collar workwear, denim has become a cornerstone of the global wardrobe. Denim popularity wavered in places like the United States in the 1950’s, becoming a symbol of rebellion over a sign of a worker. Later, in the late 1980’s, denim became a high fashion staple seen on runways in the United States and worldwide.
Because of the limited number of mills in the United States to produce the fabric, the vast majority of denim produced in the United States came from the same source – the Cone Mills plant in North Carolina, which sadly is no more. Because of this, the fade patterns in American denim are similar and more consistent with one another. While some people prefer the classic look of the American denim, those looking for more variety in color, texture, and fades than standard American denim might find themselves looking at other sources. This is where Japanese denim comes to the rescue! Unlike their American counterpart, Japanese denim mills are more adventurous with their production and seek to explore the different ways of producing a variety of colours, fade patterns and textures. Today’s Japan has possibly the most interesting and experienced denim mills in the world
more
Colours
Japanese dyeing techniques are based on centuries of experience. Japan has long experimented with textile dyeing, even before the existence of denim. Their rich history in textile dyeing dates all the way back to the production of kimonos from hundreds of years ago. With such a background, many Japanese denim mills tend to experiment more with their colours, resulting in innovative details like the indigo warp/black weft and natural persimmon dyes.
A prime example for this would be Samurai Jeans recent Book of Five Rings collection:
MOMOTARO JEANS have recently released quite some unique blue weft jeans in collaboration with us.
Our most recent collaborations with Studio d’Artisan also showcase to traditional Japanese dyeing techniques: SUMI (a grey-ink dye) and KAKISHIBU (persimmon dye):
The fading in American denim is more even and consistent, giving a vintage color and feel to these jeans. The blue hues developed from a well-worn pair of American denim are easily recognizable from its classic faded patterns, as compared to the high-contrast fading that Japanese denim produce (of course, this also depends on the frequency of washing the denim, as well!).
Texture
Because of the dominance of the Cone Mills plant in America, denim that utilizes Cone’s White Oak fabrics are relatively consistent in their looks and textures. Denim produced by Cone Mills is woven using vintage shuttle looms- American Draper x3’s dating back to the 1940’s. Denim produced using the Draper x3’s have generally smoother and softer surfaces compared to Japanese denim. This quality is sometimes attributed to the bounce of the machinery off White Oak’s hardwood floors while in use, though this fact is still somewhat speculated by many.
Japanese denim on the other hand is woven on Toyoda looms that result in uneven and less consistent textures. Japanese denim is often stiffer than denim one might find elsewhere, due to it being loomstate, or, completely unchanged from the loom. It hasn’t been shrunk, washed or mercerized. It is pure denim. The rigidity that comes with this often means this denim will have a more uncomfortable break-in period, but one that will mold to your skin and become better with each wear.
Masters of wild texture are ONI, Tanuki and Pure Blue Japan:
Weight
Another great element Japanese denim has to offer is the variety of fabric weights produced by their denim mills. While Japanese mills produce plenty of lightweight denim, most denim 20 oz. or more come from Japan. Japanese denim has a wider range of choices to cater for different preferences of denim lovers. In comparison, most high-end American denim sits around the 14oz mark.
Details
This is not strictly about denim but it plays an important role nonetheless: Japanese brands have a tendency to obsess over even the smallest detail. There are brands like COTTLE who hand cast every single top button in iron by hand.
Brands like MOMOTARO and SAMURAI JEANS go all out to source shirt-quality pocket linings which are sturdy and even though you don’t see them, you know it’s there and it’s such a nice touch. Nearly all Japanese brands pack a couple of nice little extras which simply add to the appeal of the denim.
So Which One Is Better?
At the end of the day, it all comes down to personal preference. Some people love the classic and vintage feel of American denim while those who prefer more variety in textures, weight, and colours might opt for Japanese denim.
There remains no clear winner for which is the better fabric, however, if you are looking for more variety in your denim wardrobe, Japanese denim might be for you. The variety in texture, weight, and color offers you a world of possibility.
Once considered exclusively blue-collar workwear, denim has become a cornerstone of the global wardrobe. Denim popularity wavered in places like the United States in the 1950’s, becoming a symbol of rebellion over a sign of a worker. Later, in the late 1980’s, denim became a high fashion staple seen on runways in the United States and worldwide.
Because of the limited number of mills in the United States to produce the fabric, the vast majority of denim produced in the United States came from the same source – the Cone Mills plant in North Carolina, which sadly is no more. Because of this, the fade patterns in American denim are similar and more consistent with one another. While some people prefer the classic look of the American denim, those looking for more variety in color, texture, and fades than standard American denim might find themselves looking at other sources. This is where Japanese denim comes to the rescue! Unlike their American counterpart, Japanese denim mills are more adventurous with their production and seek to explore the different ways of producing a variety of colours, fade patterns and textures. Today’s Japan has possibly the most interesting and experienced denim mills in the world
more
Colours
Japanese dyeing techniques are based on centuries of experience. Japan has long experimented with textile dyeing, even before the existence of denim. Their rich history in textile dyeing dates all the way back to the production of kimonos from hundreds of years ago. With such a background, many Japanese denim mills tend to experiment more with their colours, resulting in innovative details like the indigo warp/black weft and natural persimmon dyes.
A prime example for this would be Samurai Jeans recent Book of Five Rings collection:
MOMOTARO JEANS have recently released quite some unique blue weft jeans in collaboration with us.
Our most recent collaborations with Studio d’Artisan also showcase to traditional Japanese dyeing techniques: SUMI (a grey-ink dye) and KAKISHIBU (persimmon dye):
The fading in American denim is more even and consistent, giving a vintage color and feel to these jeans. The blue hues developed from a well-worn pair of American denim are easily recognizable from its classic faded patterns, as compared to the high-contrast fading that Japanese denim produce (of course, this also depends on the frequency of washing the denim, as well!).
Texture
Because of the dominance of the Cone Mills plant in America, denim that utilizes Cone’s White Oak fabrics are relatively consistent in their looks and textures. Denim produced by Cone Mills is woven using vintage shuttle looms- American Draper x3’s dating back to the 1940’s. Denim produced using the Draper x3’s have generally smoother and softer surfaces compared to Japanese denim. This quality is sometimes attributed to the bounce of the machinery off White Oak’s hardwood floors while in use, though this fact is still somewhat speculated by many.
Japanese denim on the other hand is woven on Toyoda looms that result in uneven and less consistent textures. Japanese denim is often stiffer than denim one might find elsewhere, due to it being loomstate, or, completely unchanged from the loom. It hasn’t been shrunk, washed or mercerized. It is pure denim. The rigidity that comes with this often means this denim will have a more uncomfortable break-in period, but one that will mold to your skin and become better with each wear.
Masters of wild texture are ONI, Tanuki and Pure Blue Japan:
Weight
Another great element Japanese denim has to offer is the variety of fabric weights produced by their denim mills. While Japanese mills produce plenty of lightweight denim, most denim 20 oz. or more come from Japan. Japanese denim has a wider range of choices to cater for different preferences of denim lovers. In comparison, most high-end American denim sits around the 14oz mark.
Details
This is not strictly about denim but it plays an important role nonetheless: Japanese brands have a tendency to obsess over even the smallest detail. There are brands like COTTLE who hand cast every single top button in iron by hand.
Brands like MOMOTARO and SAMURAI JEANS go all out to source shirt-quality pocket linings which are sturdy and even though you don’t see them, you know it’s there and it’s such a nice touch. Nearly all Japanese brands pack a couple of nice little extras which simply add to the appeal of the denim.
So Which One Is Better?
At the end of the day, it all comes down to personal preference. Some people love the classic and vintage feel of American denim while those who prefer more variety in textures, weight, and colours might opt for Japanese denim.
There remains no clear winner for which is the better fabric, however, if you are looking for more variety in your denim wardrobe, Japanese denim might be for you. The variety in texture, weight, and color offers you a world of possibility.
Once considered exclusively blue-collar workwear, denim has become a cornerstone of the global wardrobe. Denim popularity wavered in places like the United States in the 1950’s, becoming a symbol of rebellion over a sign of a worker. Later, in the late 1980’s, denim became a high fashion staple seen on runways in the United States and worldwide.
Because of the limited number of mills in the United States to produce the fabric, the vast majority of denim produced in the United States came from the same source – the Cone Mills plant in North Carolina, which sadly is no more. Because of this, the fade patterns in American denim are similar and more consistent with one another. While some people prefer the classic look of the American denim, those looking for more variety in color, texture, and fades than standard American denim might find themselves looking at other sources. This is where Japanese denim comes to the rescue! Unlike their American counterpart, Japanese denim mills are more adventurous with their production and seek to explore the different ways of producing a variety of colours, fade patterns and textures. Today’s Japan has possibly the most interesting and experienced denim mills in the world
more
Colours
Japanese dyeing techniques are based on centuries of experience. Japan has long experimented with textile dyeing, even before the existence of denim. Their rich history in textile dyeing dates all the way back to the production of kimonos from hundreds of years ago. With such a background, many Japanese denim mills tend to experiment more with their colours, resulting in innovative details like the indigo warp/black weft and natural persimmon dyes.
A prime example for this would be Samurai Jeans recent Book of Five Rings collection:
MOMOTARO JEANS have recently released quite some unique blue weft jeans in collaboration with us.
Our most recent collaborations with Studio d’Artisan also showcase to traditional Japanese dyeing techniques: SUMI (a grey-ink dye) and KAKISHIBU (persimmon dye):
The fading in American denim is more even and consistent, giving a vintage color and feel to these jeans. The blue hues developed from a well-worn pair of American denim are easily recognizable from its classic faded patterns, as compared to the high-contrast fading that Japanese denim produce (of course, this also depends on the frequency of washing the denim, as well!).
Texture
Because of the dominance of the Cone Mills plant in America, denim that utilizes Cone’s White Oak fabrics are relatively consistent in their looks and textures. Denim produced by Cone Mills is woven using vintage shuttle looms- American Draper x3’s dating back to the 1940’s. Denim produced using the Draper x3’s have generally smoother and softer surfaces compared to Japanese denim. This quality is sometimes attributed to the bounce of the machinery off White Oak’s hardwood floors while in use, though this fact is still somewhat speculated by many.
Japanese denim on the other hand is woven on Toyoda looms that result in uneven and less consistent textures. Japanese denim is often stiffer than denim one might find elsewhere, due to it being loomstate, or, completely unchanged from the loom. It hasn’t been shrunk, washed or mercerized. It is pure denim. The rigidity that comes with this often means this denim will have a more uncomfortable break-in period, but one that will mold to your skin and become better with each wear.
Masters of wild texture are ONI, Tanuki and Pure Blue Japan:
Weight
Another great element Japanese denim has to offer is the variety of fabric weights produced by their denim mills. While Japanese mills produce plenty of lightweight denim, most denim 20 oz. or more come from Japan. Japanese denim has a wider range of choices to cater for different preferences of denim lovers. In comparison, most high-end American denim sits around the 14oz mark.
Details
This is not strictly about denim but it plays an important role nonetheless: Japanese brands have a tendency to obsess over even the smallest detail. There are brands like COTTLE who hand cast every single top button in iron by hand.
Brands like MOMOTARO and SAMURAI JEANS go all out to source shirt-quality pocket linings which are sturdy and even though you don’t see them, you know it’s there and it’s such a nice touch. Nearly all Japanese brands pack a couple of nice little extras which simply add to the appeal of the denim.
So Which One Is Better?
At the end of the day, it all comes down to personal preference. Some people love the classic and vintage feel of American denim while those who prefer more variety in textures, weight, and colours might opt for Japanese denim.
There remains no clear winner for which is the better fabric, however, if you are looking for more variety in your denim wardrobe, Japanese denim might be for you. The variety in texture, weight, and color offers you a world of possibility.
Once considered exclusively blue-collar workwear, denim has become a cornerstone of the global wardrobe. Denim popularity wavered in places like the United States in the 1950’s, becoming a symbol of rebellion over a sign of a worker. Later, in the late 1980’s, denim became a high fashion staple seen on runways in the United States and worldwide.
Because of the limited number of mills in the United States to produce the fabric, the vast majority of denim produced in the United States came from the same source – the Cone Mills plant in North Carolina, which sadly is no more. Because of this, the fade patterns in American denim are similar and more consistent with one another. While some people prefer the classic look of the American denim, those looking for more variety in color, texture, and fades than standard American denim might find themselves looking at other sources. This is where Japanese denim comes to the rescue! Unlike their American counterpart, Japanese denim mills are more adventurous with their production and seek to explore the different ways of producing a variety of colours, fade patterns and textures. Today’s Japan has possibly the most interesting and experienced denim mills in the world
more
Colours
Japanese dyeing techniques are based on centuries of experience. Japan has long experimented with textile dyeing, even before the existence of denim. Their rich history in textile dyeing dates all the way back to the production of kimonos from hundreds of years ago. With such a background, many Japanese denim mills tend to experiment more with their colours, resulting in innovative details like the indigo warp/black weft and natural persimmon dyes.
A prime example for this would be Samurai Jeans recent Book of Five Rings collection:
MOMOTARO JEANS have recently released quite some unique blue weft jeans in collaboration with us.
Our most recent collaborations with Studio d’Artisan also showcase to traditional Japanese dyeing techniques: SUMI (a grey-ink dye) and KAKISHIBU (persimmon dye):
The fading in American denim is more even and consistent, giving a vintage color and feel to these jeans. The blue hues developed from a well-worn pair of American denim are easily recognizable from its classic faded patterns, as compared to the high-contrast fading that Japanese denim produce (of course, this also depends on the frequency of washing the denim, as well!).
Texture
Because of the dominance of the Cone Mills plant in America, denim that utilizes Cone’s White Oak fabrics are relatively consistent in their looks and textures. Denim produced by Cone Mills is woven using vintage shuttle looms- American Draper x3’s dating back to the 1940’s. Denim produced using the Draper x3’s have generally smoother and softer surfaces compared to Japanese denim. This quality is sometimes attributed to the bounce of the machinery off White Oak’s hardwood floors while in use, though this fact is still somewhat speculated by many.
Japanese denim on the other hand is woven on Toyoda looms that result in uneven and less consistent textures. Japanese denim is often stiffer than denim one might find elsewhere, due to it being loomstate, or, completely unchanged from the loom. It hasn’t been shrunk, washed or mercerized. It is pure denim. The rigidity that comes with this often means this denim will have a more uncomfortable break-in period, but one that will mold to your skin and become better with each wear.
Masters of wild texture are ONI, Tanuki and Pure Blue Japan:
Weight
Another great element Japanese denim has to offer is the variety of fabric weights produced by their denim mills. While Japanese mills produce plenty of lightweight denim, most denim 20 oz. or more come from Japan. Japanese denim has a wider range of choices to cater for different preferences of denim lovers. In comparison, most high-end American denim sits around the 14oz mark.
Details
This is not strictly about denim but it plays an important role nonetheless: Japanese brands have a tendency to obsess over even the smallest detail. There are brands like COTTLE who hand cast every single top button in iron by hand.
Brands like MOMOTARO and SAMURAI JEANS go all out to source shirt-quality pocket linings which are sturdy and even though you don’t see them, you know it’s there and it’s such a nice touch. Nearly all Japanese brands pack a couple of nice little extras which simply add to the appeal of the denim.
So Which One Is Better?
At the end of the day, it all comes down to personal preference. Some people love the classic and vintage feel of American denim while those who prefer more variety in textures, weight, and colours might opt for Japanese denim.
There remains no clear winner for which is the better fabric, however, if you are looking for more variety in your denim wardrobe, Japanese denim might be for you. The variety in texture, weight, and color offers you a world of possibility.
Once considered exclusively blue-collar workwear, denim has become a cornerstone of the global wardrobe. Denim popularity wavered in places like the United States in the 1950’s, becoming a symbol of rebellion over a sign of a worker. Later, in the late 1980’s, denim became a high fashion staple seen on runways in the United States and worldwide.
Because of the limited number of mills in the United States to produce the fabric, the vast majority of denim produced in the United States came from the same source – the Cone Mills plant in North Carolina, which sadly is no more. Because of this, the fade patterns in American denim are similar and more consistent with one another. While some people prefer the classic look of the American denim, those looking for more variety in color, texture, and fades than standard American denim might find themselves looking at other sources. This is where Japanese denim comes to the rescue! Unlike their American counterpart, Japanese denim mills are more adventurous with their production and seek to explore the different ways of producing a variety of colours, fade patterns and textures. Today’s Japan has possibly the most interesting and experienced denim mills in the world
more
Colours
Japanese dyeing techniques are based on centuries of experience. Japan has long experimented with textile dyeing, even before the existence of denim. Their rich history in textile dyeing dates all the way back to the production of kimonos from hundreds of years ago. With such a background, many Japanese denim mills tend to experiment more with their colours, resulting in innovative details like the indigo warp/black weft and natural persimmon dyes.
A prime example for this would be Samurai Jeans recent Book of Five Rings collection:
MOMOTARO JEANS have recently released quite some unique blue weft jeans in collaboration with us.
Our most recent collaborations with Studio d’Artisan also showcase to traditional Japanese dyeing techniques: SUMI (a grey-ink dye) and KAKISHIBU (persimmon dye):
The fading in American denim is more even and consistent, giving a vintage color and feel to these jeans. The blue hues developed from a well-worn pair of American denim are easily recognizable from its classic faded patterns, as compared to the high-contrast fading that Japanese denim produce (of course, this also depends on the frequency of washing the denim, as well!).
Texture
Because of the dominance of the Cone Mills plant in America, denim that utilizes Cone’s White Oak fabrics are relatively consistent in their looks and textures. Denim produced by Cone Mills is woven using vintage shuttle looms- American Draper x3’s dating back to the 1940’s. Denim produced using the Draper x3’s have generally smoother and softer surfaces compared to Japanese denim. This quality is sometimes attributed to the bounce of the machinery off White Oak’s hardwood floors while in use, though this fact is still somewhat speculated by many.
Japanese denim on the other hand is woven on Toyoda looms that result in uneven and less consistent textures. Japanese denim is often stiffer than denim one might find elsewhere, due to it being loomstate, or, completely unchanged from the loom. It hasn’t been shrunk, washed or mercerized. It is pure denim. The rigidity that comes with this often means this denim will have a more uncomfortable break-in period, but one that will mold to your skin and become better with each wear.
Masters of wild texture are ONI, Tanuki and Pure Blue Japan:
Weight
Another great element Japanese denim has to offer is the variety of fabric weights produced by their denim mills. While Japanese mills produce plenty of lightweight denim, most denim 20 oz. or more come from Japan. Japanese denim has a wider range of choices to cater for different preferences of denim lovers. In comparison, most high-end American denim sits around the 14oz mark.
Details
This is not strictly about denim but it plays an important role nonetheless: Japanese brands have a tendency to obsess over even the smallest detail. There are brands like COTTLE who hand cast every single top button in iron by hand.
Brands like MOMOTARO and SAMURAI JEANS go all out to source shirt-quality pocket linings which are sturdy and even though you don’t see them, you know it’s there and it’s such a nice touch. Nearly all Japanese brands pack a couple of nice little extras which simply add to the appeal of the denim.
So Which One Is Better?
At the end of the day, it all comes down to personal preference. Some people love the classic and vintage feel of American denim while those who prefer more variety in textures, weight, and colours might opt for Japanese denim.
There remains no clear winner for which is the better fabric, however, if you are looking for more variety in your denim wardrobe, Japanese denim might be for you. The variety in texture, weight, and color offers you a world of possibility.
Из-за ограниченного количества американских фабрик по производству ткани, значительное количество денима, производимого в США, поставлялось из одного источника – с фабрики “Cone Mills” в Северной Каролине. В связи с этим, старые “потёртые модели” американских джинсов очень похожи и хорошо гармонируют друг с другом. В то время, как некоторые люди предпочитают классику американского денима, другие ищут большего выбора в вопросах цветового решения, плотности ткани и моделях “потёртых” джинсов. Отказываясь от предложений денима американского стандарта, они переходят к другим источникам.
Тут то Японский деним и приходит на помощь! В отличие от своих американских коллег, японские ткацкие фабрики более изобретательны в отношении своей продукции и пытаются изучить различные способы создания разнообразия цветов, рисунков “потёртостей” и текстур ткани.
ЦВЕТА
Япония издавна экспериментировала с окрашиванием тканей, задолго до существования денима. Её богатая история в покраске тканей датируется началом производства кимоно, сотни лет тому назад. С такой подготовкой, многие японские джинсовые фабрики уделяют больше внимания экспериментам с окрашиванием, в результате чего появились такие инновационные детали, как переплетение цветов (нить основы цвета индиго/чёрная нить утка) и натуральные краски из хурмы.
“Потёртые” американские джинсы более ровные и плотные, что придаёт их джинсам цвет и атмосферу “винтаж”. Голубые тона денима, произошедшие от старых добрых “поношенных” американских джинсов, можно легко узнать по их классическим потёртостям. В сравнении с ними, японские джинсы выглядят более контрастно (конечно, стоит принять во внимание и частоту стирки джинсов!). Американцы в основном используют натуральную краску индиго, отдавая ей большее предпочтение, чем синтетической, всё также производя качественные “потёртые” модели, что позволяет им называться “классическими” спустя долгие годы.
СТРОЕНИЕ ТКАНИ
Из-за превосходства американской текстильной фабрики Cone Mills, джинсы производства фабрик Cone’s White Oak относительно последовательны в своем внешнем виде и строении ткани. Фабрика Cone Mills ткёт деним на классических ткацких станках American Draper x3 1940 года выпуска. Деним, сотканный на Draper x3 имеет , как правило, более гладкую и мягкую поверхность, в сравнении с японским денимом. Такое качество иногда объясняется малой отдачей станков во время работы (полы в White Oak из гладкой твердой древесины), хотя этот факт многим кажется слегка надуманным.
С другой стороны, японский деним ткут на станках Toyoda, что проявляется в шероховатости и меньшей плотности ткани. Японский деним часто плотнее, чем любой другой, благодаря суровости нитей и тому, что нити совершенно не меняют своей структуры в процессе получения ткани. Они не дают усадку, их не стирают и не мерсеризуют. Это чистый деним. Жёсткость, которая приходит вместе с этим, часто означает, что деним будет не очень приятен первое время, но вскоре примет форму вашего тела и будет становиться всё лучше и приятнее с каждой ноской.
ВЕС
Другая значительная особенность японского денима – это весовое разнообразие тканей, поставляемых их фабриками. Несмотря на то, что японские фабрики производят множество “лёгких” джинсов, большинство джинсов весом 20 унций (567 гр.) и более производится в Японии. Японский деним предоставляет широкий выбор решений для удовлетворения различных предпочтений любителей джинсов. Для сравнения, большинство лидирующих американских марок имеют вес около 14 унций (396 гр.).
ТАК КАКИЕ ЖЕ ЛУЧШЕ?
В конце концов, всё зависит от личных предпочтений. Некоторые люди любят “классику” и “винтаж” американского денима, в то время как других интересует больший выбор тканей различной плотности, веса и цветов, и они отдают предпочтение японским джинсам.
Невозможно выявить лидера по качеству производства, однако, если вы ищете большего разнообразия в своём джинсовом гардеробе, то японские джинсы – это то, чего вы искали! Выбор тканей различной плотности, веса и цветов откроет перед вами целый мир возможностей.
Если вы хотите заказать один (или несколько) из лучших Японских джинсовых брендов, посетите наш сайт Japanese Denim Store для ознакомления с полным списком брендов.[:th]เมื่อพิจารณาชุดทำงานสีฟ้าโดยเฉพาะของหนุ่มๆ เดนิมจะกลายเป็นหลักสำคัญของเสื้อผ้าระดับโลกทันที เดนิมเคยเป็นที่นิยมเป็นอย่างมากในเมืองใหญ่อย่าง สหรัฐอเมริกาในปี 1950 จนกลายเป็นสัญลักษณ์ของคนทำงานไปเลย หลังจากนั้นในช่วงปลายปี 1980 เดนิมก็ได้กลายเป็นเเฟชั่นชั้นนำหลักๆ ที่เห็นได้บนรันเวย์ในสหรัฐอเมริกาและทั่วโลก
เพราะความจำกัดด้านจำนวนโรงงานในสหรัฐอเมริกาที่ผลิตผ้า ผ้าส่วนมากที่ผลิตในสหรัฐอเมริกามาจากแหล่งเดียวกันทั้งนั้น – นั่นคือโรงงาน Cone ผลิตกางเกง อยู่ทางตอนเหนือของแคโรลิน่า ด้วยเหตุผลนี้เอง รูปแบบการเฟดเดนิมในสหรัฐอเมริกาจึงเหมือนๆกันและมีความมั่นคงกว่าอื่นๆ ในขณะที่บางคนก็ชอบแบบคลาสสิคของเดนิมอเมริกามากกว่า ที่กำลังมองหาความหลากหลายของสี เนื้อผ้า การเฟด มากกว่าเดนิมอเมริกันแบบพื้นๆ อาจจะมองหาแหล่งอื่นด้วยตนเองเช่นกัน
นี่คือ เดนิมญี่ปุ่น ที่จะเข้ามาช่วย! ไม่ใช่ปลอมมาจากอเมริกา แต่โรงงานเดนิมของญี่ปุ่นมีความกล้าและท้าลายด้านการผลิตมากกว่าและต้องหาวิธีการผลิตที่แตกต่างในด้านสี รูปแบบการเฟดและเนื้อผ้า
เรื่องของสี
ญี่ปุ่นมีการทดลองการย้อมผ้ามาอย่างยาวนาน ก่อนจะมีเดนิมด้วยซ้ำ ประวัติศาสตร์มากมายในการย้อมสีผ้าย้อนไปจนถึงการผลิต kimonos เมื่อร้อยกว่าปีที่ผ่านมา ด้วยภูมิหลังนี้เอง ทำให้โรงงานเดนิมหลายๆแห่งในญี่ปุ่น มีแนวโน้มในการทดลองเรื่องสีมากขึ้น ผลของนวัตกรรมเหล่านี้ก็อย่างเช่น ผ้าสีครามโอบด้วยสีดำและย้อมธรรมชาติด้วยลูกพลับ
การเฟดในเดนิมอเมริกันนั้นสม่ำเสมอและคงเส้นคงววากว่า มันให้สีวินเทจและความรู้สึกที่มีต่อยีนส์พวกนั้น เฉดสีน้ำเงินพัฒนาจากตัวที่ใส่ดีของเดนิมอเมริกัน สามารถเตือนเราได้อย่างง่ายดายจากรูปแบบการเฟดแบบคลาสสิคของมัน เมื่อเทียบกับการเฟดที่มีความแตกต่างสูงที่เดนิมญี่ปุ่นผลิต (แน่นอนว่านี่ขึ้นอยู่กับความถี่ในการซักเดนิมด้วย!) เดนิมอเมริกันที่ย้อมด้วยสีครามปกติเเล้วจะย้อมแบบธรรมชาติมากกว่าย้อมแบบสังเคราะห์ การผลิตแบบคงเส้นคงวาและคุณภาพของการเฟด ที่ช่วยให้มันดูคลาสสิคมากขึ้นเมื่อเวลาผ่านไป
เนื้อผ้า
เป็นเพราะอิทธิพลของโรงงานกางเกง Cone ในอเมริกา เดนิมที่นำเส้นใยไวท์โอ๊คของ Cone ไปใช้ จะค่อนข้างคงเส้นคงวาในด้านข้องรูปลักษณ์และเนื้อผ้า เดนิมผลิตโดยโรงงาน Cone มีการถักทอโดยใช้เครื่องทอผ้าวินเทจ – Draper x3 ของอเมริกา ย้อนไปในปี 1940 เดนิมถูกผลิตขึ้นจากเครื่องทอผ้าโบราณรุ่น Draper x3 ที่โดยทั่วไปแล้วจะเรียบกว่าและมีพื้นผิวที่นิ่มกว่าเมื่อเทียบกับเดนิมญี่ปุ่น ประสิทธิภาพนี้เป็นคุณสมบัติของการกระโดดของกลไกพื้นไม่เนื้อแข็งของไวท์โอ๊คในขณะที่ใช้งาน ความจริงก็คือมันยังมีอีกหลายข้อสันนิษฐานที่เปนไปได้
เดนิมญี่ปุ่นในอีกด้านคือถักทอมาจากเครื่องทอผ้า Toyodaที่ให้ผลลัพธ์ของความหยาบและความสม่ำเสมอของเนื้อผ้าที่ลดลง เดนิมญี่ปุ่นจะมีความแข็งมากกว่ายีนส์ทั่วไป สมแล้วที่จะเป็นลูมสเตท หรือไม่เปลี่ยนเลยจากเครื่องทอผ้า มันจะไม่หดตัวจากการซักหรือหรือชุบ มันคือเดนิมบริสุทธิ์ ความแข็งแกร่งที่หายไปกับความถี่ในการซักหมายความว่าเดนิมจะถูกทำลายใากขึ้นไปตามช่วงเวลา แต่อย่างหนึ่งที่จะเป็นแบบคือผิวคุณและมันจะดีขึ้นเรื่อยๆทุกครั้งที่ใส่
น้ำหนัก
องค์ประกอบที่ยอดเยี่ยมอีกอันของเดนิมญี่ปุ่นที่จะต้องนำเสนอเลยคือ น้ำหนักของผ้าที่มีความหลากหลายที่ผลิตจากโรงงานเดนิมเหล่านั้น ในขณะที่โรงงานญี่ปุ่นผลิตเดนิมที่มีน้ำหนักมาก เดนิมส่วนใหญ่จะอยู่ที่ 20 ออนซ์ หรือมากกว่านั้นที่มาจากญี่ปุ่น เดนิมญี่ปุ่นมีช่วงที่กว้างกว่าของตัวเลือกความพึงพอใจสำหรับความชอบที่หลากหลายของคนรักเดนิม ในการเปรียบเทียบเดนิมไฮเอนด์ของอเมริกาส่วนใหญ่อยู่ที่ประมาณ 14 ออนซ์เท่านั้น
แล้วแบบไหนดีกว่าล่ะ?
สุดท้ายแล้ว ทุกอย่างก็ขึ้นอยู่กับความชอบของแต่ละคน บางคนชอบแบบคลาสสิคและวินเทจให้ความรู้สึกของเดนิมอเมริกา ในขณะที่บางคนชอบความหลากหลายของเนื้อผ้า น้ำหนัก และสี ก็จะเลือกเป็นเดนิมญี่ปุ่น
ก็ยังคงไม่ชัดเจนว่าอันไหนชนะที่จะเป็นผ้าที่ดีกว่า อย่างไรก็ตาม หากคุณกำลังมองหาความหลากหลายให้กับตู้เสื้อผ้าเดนิมของคุณ เดนิมญี่ปุ่นคือสิง่ที่คุณตามหา ความหลากหลายของเนื้อผ้า น้ำหนัก และสี ทำให้โลกขอคุณมีความเป็นไปได้
หากคุณต้องการจะดูแบรนด์เดนิมญี่ปุ่นที่เข้ากับคุณลองดูที่ ร้านเดนิมญี่ปุ่น ของเราที่มีรายการแบรนด์ต่างๆมากมาย[:ja]いつもご利用いただきありがとうございます。DENIMIOの菊地です。
今回は「国産ジーンズと海外のジーンズがどのように違うのか。」について記事にしてみました。今までLevi’sやEDWINなど大御所と言われるようなブランドを穿いてきた方や、もっともっと岡山デニム・国産ジーンズについて知りたい！って方にご紹介させていただきます！
<目次>
ジーンズってそもそも…何？
じゃあ今ある岡山デニムとアメリカのデニム、なにが違うの？
・COLORS
・TEXTURE
・WEIGHT
ジーンズってそもそも…何？
ジーンズの歴史はもともと19世紀半ばのアメリカ西部から始まったとされています。当時ゴールドラッシュだったアメリカにおいて人々は血眼になり鉱山などに行き、夢を求めて死ぬ気で金を掘ろうとしていました。現代においてブラック企業などが存在していますが、それよりもひどい重労働だったはずです。みんな服が破れ疲弊するほど毎日掘り続けました。そこである人が考えました。
「重労働をしても破れず、汚れの目立たない衛生的で丈夫な服を着たい！」と。
ここでジーンズの必要性が生まれてきたのです。つまりジーンズの始まりは労働服だったのです。
そして、時代は進み終戦後の1950年代、ジーンズが労働者のシンボルではなく女性も穿けるファッションのシンボルとして利用される様になっていくのです（もともと男性が穿くイメージだったジーンズを女性が穿くことで自由のシンボルにもなっていきます）。
じゃあ今ある岡山デニムとアメリカのデニム、なにが違うの？
違いは岡山デニムのクオリティの背後にあるストーリーに答えが隠されています。
「岡山デニム」
最近はテレビなどでも特集されるようにもなり、聞き覚えのある単語かもしれませんね。
そもそもなんで岡山でジーンズが有名になっているのか。その理由はもともとジーンズを作る前からあった産業が鍵となります。大正・昭和時代、岡山は学生服を作る産業で盛んでした。
しかし戦後になるとその産業が落ち込み、衰退の危機にさらされるのです。
そこで鍵となったのは米軍が残していった「デニム」。
「日本でジーンズを作ったらいいんじゃないか・・・？」
学生服で培われた縫製技術は、厚い生地でジーンズを作ることなど容易でした。
そして偶然にも、地理的に近い徳島では伝統工芸の「藍染め」がありました。
ついに、隣県の技術が合わさることで現在世界的にも有名な国産ジーンズ産業を成功させたのです。
一方、海外では量産型のジーンズが大流行。穿きやすさ、値段の安さで好評だったのですが、ある時思います。
「みんなと同じジーンズだし、色落ちも一緒で…なんかつまらないな…」
そこで岡山の登場です。それまで培ってきた技術で体現した岡山デニムは、縫製だけではなく生地によって差別化を図り、海外の人々の度肝を抜いたのです。
「何だこの生地は？！」
「なんだこの綺麗な縫製は？！」
「なんだこのはっきりした色落ちは？！」
岡山デニムを初めてみた方はよくそういった反応なさいます。
そう、答えはその個性とこだわりなのです。
さあ、具体的な違いを見ていきましょう。
COLORS
日本は着物などの伝統的な衣服を長年染め上げてきた歴史があり、その中で培ったその染色技術が今の日本デニムのインディゴや柿から作られた染料などに反映されています。天然藍になると、ジーンズによって色落ちの個体差が出るのもいいところ。
アメリカのジーンズの色のパターンは一貫性を持って生産されるので識別しやすい点が特徴です。
TEXTURE
アメリカではCone紡績工場がほぼ独占状態だったのでデニムの形も似たようなものが多くそこで使われていたAmerican Draper x3’sと呼ばれるヴィンテージの機織り機は日本のデニムに比べ生地の表面を柔らかくスムーズに仕上げていました。
一方、日本デニムは一貫性は少なく不均一なデニムを豊田と呼ばれる機織り機で仕上げることが多いです。これで作られるデニムは比較的に固めでゴツゴツした感じ。なので手にしてから慣らしていくまでは少し履き心地が良くないですが、最終的には自分の肌にしっかりフィットするようなデニムになっていきます。
生地は色落ちの仕方に直結します。例えばゴツゴツしてると「点落ち」と呼ばれる、ポツポツと凹凸のある部分から色落ちをしたりと、生地によって他のジーンズ差別化できるのです。
WEIGHT
最後の大きな違いは日本のデニム生地には様々な重さがあることです。多くの軽い素材のデニムを作る一方、約20オンス以上の重いデニムも日本では生産されています。その種類の多さは好みによって使い分けれるので良いですね。
ちなみにアメリカの一番品質の良いジーンズは14オンスぐらいだそうです。
さて、どちらのジーンズが良かったでしょうか？
今日の紹介はあくまで私の好みを元に話しているので、もちろんアメリカ製の歴史あるヴィンテージでクラシックなジーンズやそのスタイルが好きな人もいれば、日本製の多彩で多くの形状やパターンのあるジーンズが好きな人もいます。
なのでもちろん勝敗はつけれませんが、もし日本製のデニムがが好き！穿いてみたい！という方はぜひDenimioをチェックしてみてください。たくさんのジャパンメイドのアイテムを取り揃えています。
店舗のご紹介
デニミオは在庫5000本以上を取り揃える国産デニム専門店！
横浜に近い方、ネットでみた商品を目で確かめたい方、観光で来ている方、ぜひご来店下さい！
[:ms]Setelah terkenal sebagai pakaian kerja eksekutif, denim menjadi mode pakaian yang selalu didapati dalam koleksi fashion setiap individu. Populariti denim bermula sejak tahun 1950-an di Amerika Syarikat dan dianggap sebagai simbol pemberontakan awam. Walau bagaimanapun, pada akhir tahun 1980-an, denim menjadi mode fashion utama yang sering dilihat di dalam dunia model di Amerika Syarikat dan juga seluruh dunia.
Kerana jumlah kilang pengeluar fabrik di Amerika Syarikat yang sangat terhad, sebahagian besar denim di Amerika Syarikat berasal dari sumber tunggal – kilang Kon Mills di Carolina Utara. Oleh kerana itu, pola pudar pada setiap denim Amerika biasanya lebih serupa dan konsisten. Ketika sebahagian individu lebih memilih mod klasik dari denim Amerika, beberapa dari pecinta denim mencuba lebih banyak variasi dalam warna, tekstur dan hasil pudar yang berbeza dari denim standard Amerika melalui sumber lain.
Di sinilah Denim Jepun berkembang dan dikenalkan secara global. Berbeza dari Amerika Syarikat, kilang Jepun menggunakan pelbagai cara kreatif dan menyediakan pelbagai warna, corak pudar dan tekstur dalam menghasilkan denim.
WARNA
Jepun mempunyai pengalaman profesional dalam eksperimen pencelupan bahan tekstil, bahkan sebelum denim dikenalkan. Sejarah panjang ini bermula dari beratus-ratus tahun yang lalu sejak menghasilkan baju tradisional Jepun yang terkenal, kimono. Oleh kerana itu, kilang denim Jepun cenderung bereksperimen dengan warna, sehingga menghasilkan detail inovatif seperti warna warp indigo / weft hitam dan pewarna kesemak alami.
Denim Amerika menghasilkan hasil pudar yang lebih merata dan konsisten, memberikan warna vintaj pada jeans. Warna biru yang berkembang dari jeans denim Amerika sangat mudah dikenal dari pola klasik pudar, berbanding dengan hasil pudar denim Jepun yang mempunyai kontras yang tinggi (tentu saja, hal ini juga bergantung kepada kekerapan mencuci denim Anda!). Pewarna indigo yang digunakan pada denim Amerika biasanya merupakan pewarna semula jadi dan bukan sintetik, menghasilkan hasil pudar yang konsisten dan berkualiti untuk mod klasik dari masa ke masa.
TEKSTUR
Kerana dominasi kilang Kon Mills di Amerika, denim yang menggunakan fabrik Kon White Oak mempunyai pandangan dan tekstur yang relatif konsisten. Denim dihasilkan oleh kilang Kon Mills ditenun dengan menggunakan shuttle looms vintage-Amerika Draper x3 yang digunakan secara tradisional pada tahun 1940-an. Denim yang dihasilkan menggunakan Draper x3 mempunyai permukaan yang biasanya lebih halus dan lembut berbanding dengan denim Jepun. Kualiti ini kadang-kadang dikaitkan dengan hasil bounce mesin terhadap lantai kayu White Oak ketika digunakan, namun fakta ini masih merupakan spekulasi awam.
Di sisi lain, denim Jepun ditenun dengan alat tenun Toyoda yang menghasilkan tekstur kurang merata maupun konsisten. Denim Jepun biasanya cenderung kaku dari denim lain, disebabkan oleh proses loomstate, tidak berubah pada proses tenun. tenunan belum mengalami penyusutan, pengubahan atau pun proses mercerize. Ini merupakan denim tulen. Kesan yang kukuh ini boleh menyebabkan pengenaan yang kurang selesa dalam jangka masa tertentu, namun akan mengikuti bentuk kaki Anda dan menjadi lebih selesa seiring pemakaian.
BERAT
Elemen terbaik lain yang ditawarkan denim Jepun iaitu pada aspek berat fabrik yang dihasilkan. Sebahagian besar kilang Jepun menghasilkan denim mempunyai berat ringan, namun denim dengan berat 20 oz. atau pun lebih juga berasal dari Jepun, di mana denim Jepun telah menawarkan lebih banyak pilihan yang berbeza-beza untuk memenuhi keutamaan berbeza setiap pecinta denim. sebagai perbandingan, denim premium Amerika mempunyai berat 14 oz.
KESIMPULANNYA, DENIM MANAKAH YANG LEBIH UNGGUL?
Pada akhirnya, hal ini bergantung kepada keutamaan peribadi setiap individu. Sebahagian orang menyukai kesan klasik dan vintaj denim Amerika sementara yang lain lebih memilih variasi tekstur, berat dan warna yang berbeza-beza dalam denim Jepun.
Tidak ada pemenang yang pasti mengenai kualiti fabrik yang lebih baik, namun, jika anda mahukan variasi yang lebih pelbagai dalam koleksi pakaian denim anda, anda boleh mempertimbangkan denim Jepun. Anda akan menikmati penerokaan pelbagai tekstur, berat dan warna denim yang berbeza-beza.
Jika Anda ingin melihat beberapa jenama denim premium Jepun yang terbaik, sila cek Webstore Denim Jepun kami untuk senarai tawaran denim Jepun lengkap kami.
[:ko]
한 때 블루칼라 직업의 작업복으로만 여겨졌던 데님은 전 세계 사람들의 옷장의 기본 아이템이 되었습니다. 데님의 인기는 1950년대 미국과 같은 곳에서 유행하면서 노동자의 표시에 대한 반란의 상징이 되었습니다. 이후 1980년대 후반 데님은 미국과 전 세계 런웨이에서 볼 수 있는 유행 패션의 필수품이 되었습니다.
원단을 생산하는 미국 내 공장 수가 제한되어 있기 때문에, 미국에서 생산된 대부분의 데님은 노스캐롤라이나의 콘 밀스 공장에서 생산되었는데 슬프게도 이제는 더이상 이곳에서 데님을 생산하지 않습니다. 그로 인하여 미국 데님 소재의 페이드 패턴은 서로 비슷하고 거의 일관성이 있습니다. 미국 데님의 클래식한 모습을 선호하는 사람들도 있지만, 일반적인 미국 데님보다 색, 질감, 페이드에서 더 다양한 것을 원하는 사람들은 다른 데님을 찾고 있을지도 모릅니다. 여기서 바로 일본 데님이 등장 합니다! 미국의 데님 공장과는 달리 일본 데님 공장들은 자신들의 생산 방법에 더 많은 모험을 하며 다양한 색상, 페이드 패턴, 질감을 생산하는 다양한 방법을 실험하고 있습니다. 오늘날 일본은 아마도 세계에서 가장 흥미롭고 경험이 많은 데님 공장을 갖고 있을 겁니다.
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색상
일본 염색 기술은 수백 년 동안의 경험을 바탕으로 합니다. 일본은 데님이 존재하기 오래 전부터 직물 염색을 실험해 왔습니다. 직물 염색의 풍부한 역사는 수백 년 전부터 기모노 생산으로 거슬러 올라갑니다. 이러한 배경을 가진 많은 일본 데님 공장은 색상으로 더 많은 실험을하는 경향이 있어 인디고 날실/검은색 씨실 및 천연 감 염료와 같은 혁신적인 디테일을 제공합니다.
이것의 대표적인 예로 사무라이 진(Samurai Jeans)의 Book of Five Rings 컬렉션이 있습니다:
모모타로진 (MOMOTARO JEANS)은 최근 저희와 콜라보 하여 독특한 파란색 씨실 청바지를 출시했습니다.
스튜디오 다치산 (Studio d’Artisan)과의 최근 콜라보 또한 일본의 전통적인 염색 기술인 수미(회색 잉크 염료) 및 카키시부(감 염료)를 선보입니다:
미국 데님의 페이딩은 훨씬 더 균일하고 일관성이 있어 이 청바지에 빈티지한 컬러와 느낌을 줍니다. 일본 데님을 착용하며 생기는 높은 대비의 페이딩과 비교하여 미국 데님을 오래 착용하며 생기는 파란빛과 특유의 클래식한 페이딩 패턴은 쉽게 알아볼 수 있습니다 (물론 이것은 데님 세탁 빈도에 따라 달라집니다).
질감
미국의 콘 밀스 공장의 우세성 때문에 콘의 화이트 오크 패브릭을 사용하는 데님은 외관과 질감이 비교적 일관됩니다. 콘 밀스가 생산하는 데님은 빈티지 셔틀 직기를 사용하여 직조됩니다 – 아메리칸 드레이퍼 x3은 1940년대로 거슬러 올라갑니다. 드레이퍼 x3를 사용하여 제작된 데님은 일반적으로 일본 데님에 비해 더 부드러운 표면을 갖고 있습니다. 이 특성은 때로는 기계가 화이트 오크의 나무 바닥에서 튕기며 생긴거라 믿기도 하지만, 이것은 아직까지도 많은 사람들이 의문을 가지고 있습니다.
반면에 일본 데님은 도요다 직기에서 짜여져 불규칙하고 덜 일정한 질감이 만들어집니다. 일본 데님은 날염하지 않았기 때문에 보통 다른 곳의 데님 보다 더 딱딱합니다. 축소되거나 씻거나 머서 법으로 처리되지 않은 순수한 데님입니다. 이것으로 인해 생기는 데님의 단단함은 길들이는데에 시간이 걸리긴 하지만, 매번 착용 할 때마다 착용감이 더욱 좋아집니다.
거친 질감을 가진 대표적 브랜드는 오니(ONI), 타누키(Tanuki) 및 퓨어 블루 재팬(Pure Blue Japan)입니다:
무게
일본 데님의 또다른 특이한 점은 데님 공장에서 생산되는 다양한 원단 중량입니다. 일본 공장은 가벼운 데님을 많이 생산하긴 하지만 대부분의 데님은 20oz 이상입니다. 일본 데님은 데님 애호가의 다양한 선호도를 충족시키기 위해 다양한 선택을 제공합니다. 이에 비해 대부분의 고급 미국 데님은 14oz 정도입니다.
디테일
이것은 데님에 대한것 만은 아니지만 그럼에도 불구하고 중요한 역할을 합니다. 일본 브랜드는 사소한 부분에도 집착하는 경향이 있습니다. 코틀(COTTLE)과 같은 브랜드들은 모든 윗단추를 수동 작업에 의해 철로 주조합니다.
모모타로진(MOMOTARO JEANS)이나 사무라이진(SAMURAI JEANS)과 같은 브랜드는 튼튼한 셔츠 품질의 포켓 라이닝을 제공합니다. 눈에는 보이지 않지만 센스가 있습니다. 거의 모든 일본 브랜드들은 데님의 매력을 더할 몇 가지 멋진 추가 기능을 포함합니다.
어느 것이 더 나은가요?
결국엔 모든 것이 개인 취향에 달려 있습니다. 어떤 사람들은 미국 데님의 클래식하고 빈티지한 느낌을 좋아하는 반면 질감, 무게 및 색상의 다양성을 더 선호하는 사람들은 일본 데님을 선택할 수 있습니다.
더 좋은 원단을 얻을 수 있다는 확실한 승자는 없지만 데님 컬렉션을 더 다양하게 만들고 싶다면 일본 데님이 적합할 것입니다. 질감, 무게 및 색상의 다양성은 가능성의 세계를 제공합니다.
بعد أن كان خاص فقط بالعمال في المصانع، أصبح الدينيم حجر أساس في خزانة الملابس العالمية. إنتشرت شهرة الدينيم في أماكن كالولايات المتحدة الأمريكية في الخمسينيات، ليصبح رمز للتمرد أكثر منه رمز للعماله. لاحقا، في أواخر الثمنينات، أصبح الدينيم رمز للموضة في عروض الأزياء في الولايات المتحدة الأمريكية والعالم.
نظرا لقلة عدد المصانع في الولايات المتحدة الأمريكية لإنتاج النسيج، الكمية العظمي من الدينيم تُنتج في الولايات المتحدة الأمريكية من نفس المصدر – مصانع نبات المخروط في نورث كارولينا. بسبب ذلك، أنماط البهتان بالدينيم الأمريكي متشابهة ومتسقة مع بعضها. في حين أن البعض يفضل اللوك الكلاسيكية للدينيم الأمريكي، الذين يبحثون عن تنوع في اللون، النسيج ودرجات البهتان عن الدينيم الأمريكي المعتاد يستطيعوا أن يعثروا علي مصادر ثانية.
وهنا يأتي الدينيم الياباني للإنقاذ! علي عكس نظيره الأمريكي، مصانع الدينيم الياباني مغامرون أكثر في إنتاجهم ويسعون لإكتشاف طرق مختلفة لإنتاج ألون وأنسجة وأنماط بهتان متنوعة.
الألوان
لطالما إختبرت اليابان طرق مختلفة لصباغة النسيج، حتي من قبل ظهور الدينيم. تاريخهم الغني في صباغة الأنسجة يرجع قديما إلي إنتاج الكيمونو منذ مئات السنين. بخلفية مثل ذلك، الكثير من مصانع الدينيم تميل إلي تجربة الألوان، ما ينتج عنه تفاصيل مبتكرة مثل الفتلة النيلي/القماش الأسود وأصباغ البرسيمون الطبيعية.
البهتان في الدينيم الأمريكي معتاد ومتسق، معطيا لون وإحساس عتيق للجينز. تطورت مسحات اللون الأزرق من زوج من الدينيم الأمريكي وأصبحت ملحوظة في أنماط البهتان الكلاسيكية، مقارنة بالهتان المتباين بدقة في الدينيم اليابانى (بالطبع ذلك يعتمد علي مرات غسل الدينيم!). اللون النيلى المستخدم في الدينيم الأمريكى دائما طبيعي، وليس سينثيتك، منتجا بهتان ذات جودة وإتساق عالي ليسهم في شكله الكلاسيكي على مدار الوقت.
النسيج
بسبب هيمنة مصانع نبات المخروط بالولايات المتحدة الأمريكية، الدينيم الذي يستخدم البلوط الأبيض في خاماته يتميزوا بالإتساق في أشكالهم وأنسجتهم. الدينيم الذي يصنع في مصانع النبات المخروط محبوكة ب shuttle looms- American Draper x3’s عتيقة تعود إلى الأربعينيات. الدينيم الذي ينتج ب Draper x3’s لديه بالأغلب سطح أنعم وأملس مقارنة بالدينيم اليابانى. هذة الجودة نتيجة لنوعية الآلات التي تستخدم البلوط الأبيض، ولكن هذة النتيجة محل شك لبعض الناس.
أما علي الجانب الآخر، يصنع الدينيم الياباني علي أنوال تويودا الذى ينتج عنه أنسجة أقل إتساقا. الدينيم الياباني أكثر خشونة من الدينيم في الأماكن الأخرى وذلك لإنه لا يتغير إطلاقا بعد صنعه على النول. لم ينكمش، أو يُغسل. فهو دينيم نقى. الصلابة التي تأتي معه تعنى أن هذا الدينيم سوف يتطبع لجلدك ويصبح أفضل مع كل لبسة.
الوزن
عامل عظيم آخر يقدمه الدينيم اليابانى هو التنوع فى وزن الأنسجة الذى ينتجه مصانع الدينيم. فى الوقت الذى تنتج فيه المصانع اليابانية الكثير من الدينيم خفيف الوزن، معظم الدينيم 20 oz أو أكثر فى اليابان. الدينيم اليابانى يتمتع بإختيارات أوسع لتتناسب مع إختيارات عشاق الدينيم. بالمقارنة، معظم الدينيم الأمريكى الراقى يزن حوالى 14oz.
والآن، أى منهم الأفضل؟
فى نهاية اليوم، يأتى الأمر للإختيار الشخصى. بعض الناس يحبون الأحساس الكلاسيكى والعتيق للدينيم الأمريكى والبعض الآخر يفضلون التنوع فى النسيج، الوزن والألوان الذى يمنحه الدينيم اليابانى.
لا يوجد فائز واضح للنسيج الأفضل، ولكن إذا كنت تبحث عن تنوع أكثر لخزانة الدينيم لديك، فالدينيم اليابانى سيلائمك. التنوع فى النسيج، الوزن والألوان سيمنحك بعالم من الإمكانيات.
إذا كنت تريد إكتشاف أفضل الماركات اليابانية للدينيم، زور موقعنا للدينيم اليابانى وتصفح الماركات.
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